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Transcript of SHOP Austria SS15
Page 26
FRAGRANT DREAMS:
Austria’s bespoke perfumers
create scents that tell stories
AUSTRIA | АВСТРИЯ | 奥地利 | النمسا
AU
ST
RIA S
tyle E
ditio
n S
prin
g/Su
mm
er 2015
A NEW ERA OF WONDER
OPEN DAILY FROM 9.00 AM TO 6.30 PM
LAST ENTRY 5.30 PM
Kristallweltenstraße 1, 6112 Wattens, Austria
www.swarovski.com/kristallwelten
FACEBOOK.COM/HUMANIC
GRAZ • Citypark, Lazaretgürtel 55 • Herrengasse 1 • Murpark, Ostbahnstraße 3 • GRAZ/SEIERSBERG
SC Seiersberg • SALZBURG • Europark, Europastraße 1 • WIEN • Kärntner Straße 1 • Kärntner Straße 51
Stadion Center, Olympiaplatz 2 • Galleria Landstraße, Hauptstraße 97-101 • Mariahilfer Straße 1b
Mariahilfer Straße 37–39 • Mariahilfer Straße 94 • Alser Straße 35 • Favoritenstraße 126 • Hietzinger
Hauptstr. 7 • Auhofcenter, Albert-Schweitzer-G. 6 • Lugner City, Gablenzg. 5–13 • Millennium City, Han-
delskai 94–96 • SCN Ignaz-Köck-Str. 26b • Donauzentrum, Donaustadtstr. 1 • WIEN/VÖSENDORF • SCS
6
Emma Cheevers
@shopcontent
/globalblue/globalblue
@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
@GlobalBlue
/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu
EDITOR’S LETTER
ILL
US
TR
AT
ION
: IS
AA
C B
ON
AN
Welcome to Austria
Let SHOP reveal a surprising side of Austria.
Discover the renaissance of Vienna’s fragrance
industry (page 26), heritage shoemaker Ludwig
Reiter (page 32), and much more.
SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free
Shopping market leader that helps you save up
to 15% when shopping in Austria. We publish
guides to over 40 destinations across Europe
and Asia. Our international insider knowledge
means we are ideally placed to tell you about the
top global brands you’ll fnd in Austria. For the
very latest information, visit globalblue.com.
Be sure to sign up for your free Global
Blue Card for the simplest way to shop tax free
without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and
enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and
promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
Athens and Thessaloniki
Austria
Austrian Alps
Barcelona
Belgium
Berlin
Buenos Aires
Cologne
Copenhagen
Чехия
Düsseldorf
Estonia
Frankfurt
French Riviera
دليل ألانيا德国指南
Руководство Германия
Gothenburg
Hamburg
Hanover
Helsinki Area
Holland
Istanbul
Italy
Lake Saimaa
Lebanon
London
Madrid
Milan
Munich
Nuremburg
Oslo
Paris
巴黎
Portugal
Prague
Riga
Rimini and Riccione
Rome
Seoul
Singapore
Stockholm
Stuttgart
Switzerland
Tokyo
Vienna
Vilnius
8
globalblue.com
Karolis Strautniekas
Lithuanian illustrator Karolis
Strautniekas, who created the cover
for this season’s edition of SHOP
Austria, has used his clever
layered style to devise a perfume
bottle out of which a bespoke,
dreamlike scent arises, shaped
into the profle of a face. Meet
Austria’s fragrance masters in our
feature on page 26. Karolis’s
other clients include Mini
Cooper, Adobe, Siemens and the
Independent newspaper.
Read more about our cover illustrations
at globalblue.com/covers.
ILL
US
TR
AT
ION
: KA
RO
LIS
ST
RA
UT
NIE
KA
S –
FO
LIO
AR
T
CONTRIBUTORS
PH
OT
O: S
VE
N E
SE
LGR
OT
H
Gemma Latham
Gemma Latham is SHOP’s com-
mercial editor. The former edi-
tor of StyleEtc magazine, she has
interviewed a host of designers,
including Mary Katrantzou,
Antonio Berardi and Fei Liu, and
covered fashion news and events in
the UK, Europe and Asia. Gemma
loves reading, travelling and
taking pictures.
Josh Sims
For this edition of SHOP Austria,
freelance journalist and editor Josh
Sims meets heritage shoemaker
Ludwig Reiter. As well as writing
for SHOP, he contributes to
publications including the Financial
Times, Independent, Observer,
Wallpaper and Esquire. Josh’s latest
book is Icons of Women’s Style,
published in April 2015.
Kollektionen führender, internationaler Designer für die ganze Familie.
High quality fashion for women, men and children.
мода ведущих интернациональных дезайнеров для вей семьи.
SORELLE RAMONDAInternationale Designer-Mode im TOP SHOP-IM-SHOP
Wöllersdorf bei Wiener Neustadt
auf über 11.000m2
A- 2752 Wöllersdorf
Römerstraße 3-9
Tel. +43 (0)2622 - 42 444
Sattledtauf über 6.000m2
A- 4642 Sattledt
Welser Straße 10-12
Tel. +43 (0)7244 - 8383
GRAZauf über 5.000m2
8054 Graz
Center West
Weblinger Gürtel 25
Tel. +43 (0)316 - 297 000
www.sorelleramonda.ata.a
SHOP FLOOR
EDITOR IAL
Editor-in-chief
Emma Cheevers
PUBLISH ING
Publisher
James Morris
10
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue
Online managing editor
Kirsty Welsh
Online production assistant
Marina Nelson
Online assistant
Emily Scrivener
Chinese editor
Yuan Fang
Associate Chinese editor
Junjie Dou
Chinese contributing editor
Qingya He
Chinese editorial assistants
Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang
Chinese translators
Xun Ji, Yin Shi,
Chenguang Yi
Russian editor
Anastasia Nemchenok
Associate Russian editor
Daria Orlova
Russian translators
Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik,
Gary Ramazanov
Arabic editor
Haneen Malaeb
Dane Consultancy
Commercial editor
Gemma Latham
Commercial artworking assistant
Aaron Carline
AVP business development manager
Patrice Janet
Managing editor
Sally McIlhone
Cover illustrator
Karolis Strautniekas - Folio Art
Contributors
Shitika Anand,
Maria Kirchen-Hill, Josh Sims
Production editor
Caterina Mazzolai
Acting production editor
Ruairidh Pritchard
Production assistant
Katie Muxworthy
Features editor
Verity Hogan
City guide and lifestyle editor
Isabella Redmond Styles
Fashion editor
Ximena Daneri
News editor
Hannah Lewis
Fashion and news assistant
Theresa Harold
Fashion coordinator
Fani Mari
Fashion and news intern
Rebecca Fearn
Chief sub-editor
Hester Lacey
Copy editors
Katie Davis, Sue Flook,
Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew,
Harriet O’Brien
Picture editor
Kirsty Andrews
Creative editor/
deputy picture editor
Sarah Beyts
Assistant picture editor
Grace Bird
Picture assistants
Mónica R Goya, Sarah Walker
Art direction
Design by S-T
Artwork editor
Adam Dhaliwal
Artworking assistants
Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala,
George Trinick
Artworking intern
Samantha Junak
GL OBA L BLU E AUST R I A
Head of commercial Austria
Jiří Macas
Marketing sales manager
Danielle Willert
Marketing executive
Daniela Puntschart-Infeld
Retail service manager
Hermann Danzmayr
Key account managers
Ursula Bergsleithner,
Felix Camondo,
Petra Singer
Account managers
Mario Kronsteiner,
Wolfgang Gutbrunner,
Christian Seelos,
Thomas Schnötzinger,
Ulrich Tegelhofer
Global Blue Austria,
Zetschegasse 17,
A-1230 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 798 4400,
Chief Executive Officer
David Baxby
Chief Traveller Officer
Craig Le Grice
SHOP is published by
Global Blue
Group headquarters
Global Blue SA,
Route de Crassier 7,
CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland
Corporate registration number
5565726923
globalblue.com
Head of digital
Eamonn Leacy
Digital campaign manager
Nina Kobalia
Digital marketing executive
Wenhan Zhang
Digital marketing intern
Anastasia Budieva
Product manager
Devesh Sankadecha
Digital intern
Sammy Ha
Advertising and
partnership manager
Riccardo Canini
Our stores in the City Center:
Graben 17, 1010 Wien,
Kärntner Straße 5, 1010 Wien | Kärntner Straße 37, 1010 Wien,
Rotenturmstraße 5-9, 1010 Wien | Rotenturmstraße 27, 1010 Wien
Mariahilfer Strasse 32, 1070 Wien | Mariahilfer Strasse 109, 1070 Wien
the City Center:
Straße 3
otenturmstraße 27
Strasse 109, 107
enter:
, 1010 Wien,
otenturmstraße 27, 1010 Wien
Strasse 109, 107 Wien
CONTENTS
12
Above: Austria’s world-class spas include the Parkhotel Iglis
p.38
PRODUC TS
14 Check Out
SHOP selects a standout piece
from Austria this season
16 Products
Key looks for the season,
from fashion and footwear
to jewellery and accessories
N E WS
20 Shop Window
One store not to be missed
in Austria
22 News
Seasonal updates on shops,
services and new products
F E AT U R E S
26 Cover Story:
City Of Fragrance
Vienna’s designer fragrance
labels and bespoke
perfumers are attracting
international attention,
as Verity Hogan discovers
32 A Family Afair
Heritage shoemaker Ludwig
Reiter is maintaining craft
traditions while evolving to
attract the next generation,
says Josh Sims
E X PE R I E NCE
38 Comfort Zone
Thermal springs, alpine air
and picturesque scenery
are a relaxing combination.
Theresa Harold explores
Austria’s best spas
42 Stay In Style
SHOP’s guide to the world’s
most exclusive hotels
GU I DE
47 Maps and guides to Austria’s
top shops and destinations
E SSE N T I A L S
83 How To Shop Tax Free
The simple steps to saving
money on your shopping
T R A NSL AT IONS
84 Русский Перевод
90 美文翻译
97
SOU V E N I R
98 The essential item
to bring home
14 | PRODUC TS
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 83
CHECK OUT
TIME WILL TELL
Founded in 1868, Swiss watch
manufacturer IWC Schafhausen
has a reputation for craftsmanship
and pioneering technical advances.
A leader in the luxury watch indus-
try, IWC is proud of its commit-
ment to sustainable production
and maintains partnerships with
various organisations dedicated to
environmental protection. For
2015, the Portugieser Chronograph
remains the most popular time-
piece from the covetable
Portugieser collection. Available in
diferent styles, it is shown here in
18-carat rose gold with a silver-
plated dial and a dark brown alliga-
tor leather strap. It features a 44-
hour power reserve when fully
wound, as well as a stopwatch
function with minutes and sec-
onds. Technicalities aside, it would
be safe to say that the consistent
success of this model lies in its clas-
sic design and elegant proportions
– a discreet diameter of 40.9mm
makes it equally suitable for both
men and women. th
IWC Portugieser
Chronograph, €16,700,
IWC Schafhausen,
Graben 12, 1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 512 1220, iwc.com
* for map go to page 52 PH
OT
O: I
WC
16 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 83
1. Cartier ring, €13,200, Cartier,
Kohlmarkt 1, 1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 5332 2460, cartier.com
2. Jimmy Choo bag, €2,550,
Jimmy Choo, Tuchlauben 4,
1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 0300,
jimmychoo.com
3. Bally loafers, €695, Bally, Graben 12,
1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 513 0550,
bally.com
4. Massimo Dutti jumpsuit, €165,
Massimo Dutti, Kohlmarkt 9,
1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 0488,
massimodutti.com
PH
OTO
S: (
1) V
INC
ENT
DE
LA F
AIL
LE ©
CA
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2) R
ICH
AR
D D
AVID
GR
EEN
1
2
3
4
TROPICAL TASTES
Animal prints and motifs
add a feminine edge to a
simple jumpsuit
18 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 83
PH
OTO
S: (
2) M
ATTH
IAS
HO
FFM
AN
N; (
4) A
NTO
NIO
BA
RR
ELLA
/STU
DIO
OR
IZZ
ON
TE
1. Burberry jacket, €1,450, Burberry, Kohlmarkt 2, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 2820, burberry.com
2. Tom Ford lipstick, €49, Douglas, Getreidegasse 16, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 841612, tomford.com/beauty
3. Niessing ring, €2,175, Juwelier Bosshart, Meraner Strasse, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 582374, niessing.com
4. Bulgari sunglasses, €300, Kastner & Öhler, Sackstrasse 7-13, 8021 Graz, +43 (0) 316 8700, kastner-oehler.at
GREEN AND GOLD
Bright turquoise and golden accents pop against the dark navy of this cropped denim jacket
1
3
2 4
SHOP | 19
globalblue.com
1. Furla bag, €180, Boutique Waltz, Kärntner Strasse 46, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 586 9171, furla.com
2. Gucci scarf, €190, Gucci, Kohlmarkt 5, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 4088, gucci.com
3. Balmain shoes, €1,350, Balmain, Seilergasse 1, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 2523, balmain.com
4. Max Mara jumper, €135, Trachten Schlöbl, Hauptplatz 3, 8010 Graz, +43 (0)316 8216 1616, maxmara.com
DATE NIGHT
Play down the contrasting textures of this scarf and heels with a simple sweater in warm orange
1
3
2 4
PH
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S: (
2) C
OS
IMO
SER
ENI/
GU
CC
IO G
UC
CI S
.P.A
.; (3)
HER
AN
VAL.
CO
M
20 | NEWS
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 83
SHOP WINDOW
PH
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OLD-WORLD CHARM
Massimo Dutti has opened its frst
fagship store in Vienna, marrying
the city’s oldest architecture with
the brand’s contemporary outlook
on design. The store’s interior pays
homage to its former resident, fa-
mous 19th-century Polish compos-
er Chopin, with a portrait and
a plaque that bears his name.
Urban and classic silhouettes are
juxtaposed amid the warm touches
of walnut wood and cool marble
of this three-foor space. The Span-
ish chain originally started as
a menswear-only brand but, follow-
ing the success of its sophisticated,
timeless style, it has extended its
range into womenswear and acces-
sories and can now be found in over
70 countries around the world. sa
Massimo Dutti,
Kohlmarkt 9, 1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 535 0488,
massimodutti.com
* for map go to page 52
22 | NEWS
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 83
AUSTRIA
WELCOMES GAP
As a part of a global expansion
campaign, Gap has opened its frst
bricks-and-mortar store in Aus-
tria. The brand is best known for
its modern American-style cool
and casual designs, with hooded
sweatshirts, denim jackets, jeans
and basic T-shirts among its best-
sellers. The 500-square-metre
store in Vienna stocks Gap Kids,
Baby Gap, menswear and wom-
enswear to ensure that each family
member walks out with something
to suit them. To stand out in this
new market, the retailer has some
very bold plans for advertising,
so keep your eyes open. sa
Gap,
Donauzentrum Mall,
Wagramer Strasse 81-83,
1220 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 203 9638, gap.com
LIGHT AS
A FEATHER
The Silhouette Sun Collection
2015, the latest line from sun-
glasses brand Silhouette, ofers
minimalist, unisex designs.
Key pieces include the Titan
Minimal Art Ultra Thin sun-
glasses, the lightest sunglasses
in the world, as well as the spe-
cial-edition models designed by
fashion duo Felder Felder. Sil-
houette is known for its innova-
tive and lightweight designs.
SHOP | 23
globalblue.com
SALAMANDER
STYLE
Established in 1904, Salamander
is a heritage German brand produc-
ing high-quality shoes, bags and ac-
cessories for men, women and chil-
dren. For spring/summer, the brand
has focused on sumptuous suede,
metallic leathers and contrasting
colourful laces. The result is a fash-
ion-forward – yet comfortable – col-
lection of footwear that will
prove indispensable to your ward-
robe. In 2005, Salamander unveiled
a new, state-of-the-art store
design to cement its position
as a serious contender on the
international scene. th
Salamander,
Maria-Theresien-Strasse 1,
6020 Innsbruck,
+43 (0)1815 8508 1111,
salamander.at
* for map go to page 78
The company began in 1964
with the concept of glasses
as a decorative accessory, and
has since become one of the
world’s leading producers
of high-quality sunglasses. Sil-
houette makes its pieces in Aus-
tria; they are predominantly
handmade, always crafted with
great attention to detail, and are
exported to an impressive
100 countries worldwide. rf
Mirabell Optik,
Franz-Josef-Strasse 33,
5020 Salzburg,
+43 (0)662 8734120,
silhouette.com
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IAN
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24 | NEWS
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 83
CLOSED OPENS
IN VIENNA
Youthful denim-based brand
Closed has opened a store in Vien-
na. Known for its eclectic mix
of sportswear and denim, along
with other stylish pieces, Closed
has increasingly become the go-to
label for those seeking a fresh and
efortless look. The new Vienna
branch follows the brand’s
INDIAN
SUMMER
This season’s Louis Vuitton
menswear collection has been in-
spired by the luxurious palaces and
resorts of India at the beginning
of the 20th century, following a trip
to the country by the label’s mens-
wear style director Kim Jones. Sil-
houettes refect those of 1930s mili-
tary clothing, while the collection
is set in hues of dusky oranges and
khaki with bursts of hot pink con-
trasting with deep navy. Impressive
details, including intricately en-
graved mirror plating, embossed
buttons, and cotton and silk Airtex
jacket linings, are the result
of Jones’s extensive fabric research
and mark this season’s menswear
collection as one of Louis Vuitton’s
best crafted to date. rp
Louis Vuitton,
Tuchlauben 3-7,
1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 6151,
louisvuitton.com
* for map go to page 52
minimalistic aesthetic, featuring
pure white décor and light wood.
Accessories lie on wooden tables,
while spotlighting and mirrors
add a modern dimension. Visitors
to Vienna should not miss the op-
portunity to discover this
popular brand’s accessible, high-
quality clothing. rf
Closed,
Brandstätte 8,
1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 0545,
closed.com
* for map go to page 53
PH
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GO
RU
NW
AY.C
OM
SHOP | 25
globalblue.com
TOP 3: INNSBRUCK
CONCEPT STORES
If you’re looking for something a
little different, check out some of
Innsbruck’s intriguing independent
stores. From ready-to-wear to
home accessories, you’re sure to
find something new and unique
to take away.
1 Resort
Locals often refer to Resort as the best
store in the city. Its beautiful selection
comprises natural cosmetics, home
accessories and vintage furniture.
The space doubles as a photographic
art gallery, so you never know what
you’re going to see on your next visit.
Resort, Erlerstrasse 10, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 567232,resort-innsbruck.eu
2 Gschwantler
Offering high-end fashion alongside
hand-picked lifestyle accessories, this
Innsbruck store is one of family-owned
Gschwantler’s four locations across
Austria. Each has a slightly different
focus, but the underlying concept is
always everyday luxury.
Gschwantler, Marktgraben 17, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0) 512 567198, gschwantler.com
3 Feinheiten
Owner Marianne Ecker has a real
knack for making people feel at home,
so stepping into her charming store
is always a pleasure. Great service
is coupled with a delightful array of
wares, from pieces for the home to
clothing – many items are made locally
in Innsbruck.
Feinheiten, Pfarrgasse 8, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 908026, feinheiten-innsbruck.at
THE KEY
TO VIENNA
The Vienna Card is a must-buy
for visitors to the Austrian capital. It
ofers free travel on public transport
across Vienna for 48 or 72 hours, as
well as more than 210 discounts at
museums, attractions, theatres, con-
certs, shops, cafés and restaurants.
Prices start at just €18.90 per adult
and each adult card also entitles one
child up to the age of 15 to travel free
alongside the card-holder on the un-
derground, trams and buses. Pick up
your Vienna Card from your hotel,
from one of the tourist information
ofces at Vienna’s airport or main
railway station, or from Wiener Li-
nien sales points across the city. hl
wienkarte.at
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SHOP | 27
‘There are ingredients in the fra-
grance that cost more than gold,’
notes Hermann Fankhauser
of fashion label Wendy & Jim.
The perfume in question, Drop
No 01, is one of several new fra-
grances creating a buzz around
Vienna’s scent scene. The city has
enjoyed a long association with
perfumery and the Habsburg era
Vienna’s historic association with fragrance is undergoing a renaissance, with designer labels and bespoke perfumers attracting international
attention, as Verity Hogan discovers
CITY OF
FRAGRANCE
in particular was known for the
production of fne fragrances. To-
day, the city’s scent options range
from historic formulations based
on original recipes to modern in-
terpretations of past perfumes and
totally original new blends.
Wendy & Jim is a prime
example of Vienna’s modern per-
fumers. The label’s clothing
/84 90
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BR
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TE
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Lef: Wendy & Jim Drop No 01 eau de parfum97
28 | FEATURES
Above (from top): Indian jasmine is at the heart of Wendy & Jim’s Drop No 01 fragrance; the brand’s distinctively presented eau de parfum
collections for both men and wom-
en have caused waves in the Aus-
trian fashion industry and its debut
unisex fragrance is similarly dis-
tinctive. ‘It has a foral tone that
carries you to the deeper notes
of the fragrance, where a more
earthy, dark and sexy base sur-
rounds you,’ Fankhauser explains.
‘It’s a description that could also
apply to our fashion.’
Drop No 01 also stands out
from the crowd by being one of the
only fragrances on the market
to be made from mainly natural
and organic ingredients, as well
as ofering one of the most unusual
bottles on the market. The design-
ers partnered historic Austrian
porcelain manufacturer Augarten
to create an individual bottle mod-
elled on a fox’s skull. ‘When
we thought about a bottle we knew
it should be a luxurious bottle for
a very expensive perfume,’ says
Fankhauser. ‘A fox is a beautiful
SHOP | 29
and smart animal and Augarten
was the perfect partner for this
project – it’s been very successful,
we ofer four diferent ver-
sions already.’
In contrast, WienerBlut is one
of the fragrance houses blurring
the lines between historic and con-
temporary scents. The label has
found great success in adapting
imperial-era fragrances to suit
a modern audience, although it’s
not afraid to break with tradition
when necessary. ‘We basically ig-
nore trends and create what
we like, usually with a bold innova-
tive twist,’ explains company
founder Alexander Lauber. ‘Some-
times historic with a new twist
can be much more modern
than modern.’
The company’s fragrance se-
ries is based on the original
Taschentuch-Parfums, some of the
most popular perfume recipes
of 19th-century Vienna. Each
scent is manufactured from the
most luxurious raw materials avail-
able and is the result of extensive
research. Lauber was surprised
Contemporary
perfumers are
bringing fresh life
to Vienna’s historic
fragrance industry
PH
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.0
PH
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FAN
AR
MB
RU
ST
ER
30 | FEATURES
Above (clockwise from top lef): perfumer Yogesh Kumar; WienerBlut Sale Marino eau de parfum; Yogesh perfumes; Lena Hoschek Love Rose perfume
imperial Austrian Riviera, which today is part of Italy and Croatia. This region is known as the coast of laurels, which is why we feature laurel as a top note.’
WienerBlut’s packaging is sub-jected to the same attention to de-tail as its fragrances. The company uses elegant bottles, crafted from high-quality, hand-fnished glass and topped with Bakelite caps; la-bels are applied by hand. ‘The ele-gance and craftsmanship of our bottles refects how much thought, time and efort we put into creating each fragrance,’ explains Lauber. ‘Of course, there are slight irregu-larities when it’s not all done by machines and robots, but that makes the object even more charm-ing – each one is unique.’
to fnd that many historic fragranc-es were extremely innovative. ‘What I fnd really interesting is that even with the limited possi-bilities [of the time], a lot of per-fume making was already about telling stories and tapping into dreams and fantasies,’ he says.
In the same way that certain scents capture the popular imagi-nation today, imperial perfumers were also heavily infuenced by contemporary trends. ‘During the Belle Époque, when sea bathing became hugely popular, there were dozens of ocean-themed fragranc-es, even though actual marine ac-cords didn’t exist yet,’ notes Laub-er. ‘One of our new fragrances – Sale Marino – is actually dedicated to that era and is inspired by the
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sult is a scent that perfectly suits the wearer – and one that they won’t fnd being worn by anyone else.
Yogesh Kumar, WienerBlut and Wendy & Jim are just a few of the perfumers injecting fresh life into Vienna’s historic fragrance indus-try. Others include fashion design-ers such as Lena Hoschek who are making their frst forays into the feld. Historic companies such as JB Filz – which still carries perfumes that date back to 1892 – continue to maintain a strong presence. The city’s scent scene is as strong as ever and looks set to continue that way wendyjim.com, wienerblut.at, dasparfum.com, lenahoschek.com, parfumerie-flz.at
If you are looking for a truly unique perfume, Yogesh Kumar is one of Vienna’s most talented perfumers and has been creating bespoke scent compositions for the past 23 years. Kumar uses clients’ natural chemistry as a base for his blends and ofers four diferent samples to test over time before the fnal fragrance is chosen. The re-
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32 | FEATURES
/ 9286 Above: Ludwig Reiter’s standards are still as high as they were when this vintage photo was taken
A FAMILY AFFAIR
96
SHOP | 33
Ludwig Reiter is the last bastion
of a proud tradition of Viennese
shoemaking – and all the more
special for that. ‘We’re the only
bench-made shoemakers left in Vi-
enna,’ says Till Reiter, the fourth-
generation head of the family com-
pany. ‘That’s sad, and it also
makes business complicated.
There used to be more suppliers,
Heritage shoemaker Ludwig Reiter is maintaining Viennese craft traditions while evolving to attract the next generation, says Josh Sims
A FAMILY AFFAIR
PH
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EIT
ER
34 | FEATURES
Above (from top): a welt is atached to a leather upper using the famous Goodyear machine; Ludwig Reiter ladies’ Meternich slip-on shoes
machine-makers, labour and
know-how. It’s not easy to fnd
people to do the complex hand-
work involved in making
our shoes.’
Indeed, as Reiter explains, back
in his grandfather’s day – the 1920s
and 30s – Vienna was a European
fashion hub, backed by traditional
craft skills. ‘It had real internation-
al infuence in matters of style, and
was a very multicultural place.
Now Austria – like England and
Italy – remains one of the few
countries still active in bench-
made shoe-making.’
As the term bench-made sug-
gests, Ludwig Reiter shoes are
made, quite literally, at benches
by craftspeople. The manufacture
requires at least 200 separate op-
erations, including Goodyear welt-
ing, which stitches the upper to the
sole using a leather band, forming
a barrier impermeable to water,
and also making the soles endlessly
replaceable. The shoes have been
made in the same way since the PH
OTO
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UD
WIG
REI
TER
SHOP | 35
Above (from lef): Ludwig Reiter shoes were worn in the Houdini mini-series starring Adrien Brody; the brand’s Budapester box calf leather brogues
Ludwig Reiter’s
distinctive styles
are instantly
recognisable
to connoisseurs
frst Ludwig Reiter, a master shoe-
maker from Bohemia, founded the
company 130 years ago.
Such manufacture tends
to lend itself to classic styles,
which is why Ludwig Reiter shoes
often make an appearance in pe-
riod theatre and flm productions,
most recently 2014’s Houdini
mini-series starring Adrien Bro-
dy. But classic, as Till Reiter notes,
‘isn’t something that stays static
for eternity, but which evolves
through use. People used to walk
a lot more, so today shoes don’t
have to be so sturdy. Or hard
to break in – it can be difcult to
explain to someone who only
walks between their car and their
desk that, once broken
in, bench-made shoes are ex-
tremely comfortable.’
This is not to say that Ludwig
Reiter shoes aren’t distinctive: Till
Reiter distinguishes them as being
typically narrower and more asym-
metric than their English counter-
parts, and refecting diferent tra-
ditions of patterns and detailing.
The company’s most famous styles
– particularly recognisable to Vien-
nese connoisseurs – include the
Budapester brogue, with its Der-
by-style lacing, and the practical
Maronibrater boot with its
traditional felt top, based on the
winter boots that Alpine forest
workers wore a century ago. PH
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DW
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EITE
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36 | FEATURES
Above (clockwise from top lef): Ludwig Reiter CEO Till Reiter; the brand’s Wiener brogues in maroon calf leather; the Vienna fagship; vintage In Männer Vogue cover featuring the brand’s trainers
Ludwig Reiter
is introducing its
top-quality shoes
to a new generation
More unexpectedly – ‘appeal-
ing to the kind of person who
really doesn’t want to break his
shoes in,’ jokes Reiter – the com-
pany also makes old-school train-
ers, which have found a revived
credibility thanks to a collabora-
tion with Austrian fashion designer
Helmut Lang. These were frst de-
signed in the 1970s as a PT shoe
for the Austrian army, ‘although
today they’re made to a higher
standard and in much better leath-
ers,’ Reiter notes. The strips on the
side were once functional – provid-
ing support for the lacing and the
right amount of structure for what
was originally an unlined shoe.
Those strips would become the
stripes that are now a familiar aes-
thetic touch on many sports
shoe designs.
Reiter concedes that the number
of people buying Goodyear-welted
shoes for their construction benefts
may be in decline, but the company
is, conversely, selling more shoes
to people who recognise that ‘good
shoes are an important element
of good dress.’ To this end Ludwig
Reiter is this year launching a new
line with the same production stan-
dards but in more afordable mate-
rials. It is, Reiter says, a way
of introducing Viennese shoes
to a new generation.
And, perhaps one day, to a new
generation of Reiters: a ffth genera-
tion is already working for the com-
pany. ‘I actually had ideas other
than joining the family company,’
says Till Reiter. ‘I trained in eco-
nomics and wanted to go into sci-
ence, but I was the frst of my broth- PH
OT
OS
: LU
DW
IG R
EIT
ER
SHOP | 37
ers to fnish his studies so my father
picked me to take over. But I really
enjoy it, especially because it’s
a family business. Family businesses
are good – they take a longer per-
spective. They keep staf on in dif-
cult times because they know it will
be hard to fnd their skills again lat-
er, especially in shoemaking. And
they are not necessarily even that
interested in maximising proft.’
Thankfully Ludwig Reiter does
well on that score. It has 15 of its
own stores in Austria, Germany,
Switzerland and Great Britain,
as well as being widely stocked in-
ternationally, which has allowed
it to survive where so many other
Viennese shoemakers have not.
The city’s reputation for style
lives on
ludwig-reiter.com
PH
OT
O: L
UD
WIG
RE
ITE
R
globalblue.com
38 | EXPER IENCE
COMFORT ZONE
Thermal springs, alpine air and
picturesque scenery are a relaxing
combination. Theresa Harold explores
Austria’s best spas
Spas have always been known for
their health benefts – but not always
for their comfort. That has changed
in recent decades, and sparse de-
cor and even sparser rations have
given way to the luxurious spa ex-
perience. While the emphasis is still
frmly on wellbeing and health, the
glow that comes from a modern
spa experience comes from enjoy-
ment as well as from the wide range
of treatments on ofer.
Austria’s long-standing spa cul-
ture was once a relaxation for the
country’s emperors and you can fol-
low in their footsteps. Whether you
choose to visit a Viennese thermal
spa or opt for an ayurvedic treat-
ment in the Alps, your body – and
mind – will thank you for it.
SHOP | 39
P A R K H O T E L I G L S
Having scooped the coveted Most
Efective Medi-Spa prize in the
2015 Condé Nast Traveller Spa
Awards, the Parkhotel Igls is not
resting on its laurels. Known for
pioneering the Modern Mayr
method, it recently introduced
a new Mayr De-Stress programme.
An idyllic setting, state-of-the-art
facilities and a focus on regenera-
tion make this an ideal
destination for those in need
of a full-body overhaul.
Parkhotel Igls, Igler Strasse 51,
6080 Innsbruck-Igls,
+43 (0)512 377305,
parkhotel-igls.at
40 | EXPER IENCE
globalblue.com
K E M P I N S K I T H E S P A
Located in the Palais Hansen Kem-
pinski Vienna hotel, Kempinski
The Spa is open to day visitors
as well as hotel guests. Decorated
in a sumptuous mix of 1920s-style
Viennese glass art and Ottoman-
style lamps, the spa boasts a heated
hydro pool, steam room and bio-
sauna. Treatments are grouped ac-
cording to the season and desired
efect, so it’s worth a return trip
to sample the full range.
Kempinski The Spa,
Palais Hansen Kempinski Vienna,
Schottenring 24, 1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 236 1000 8090,
kempinski.com/wien
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A Y U R V E D A R E S O R T
S O N N H O F
The Sanskrit for health translates
as ‘resting one’s self’ and this stun-
ning resort with a view of the Wild-
er Kaiser mountains certainly en-
courages that. Using a holistic
system of European ayurveda
to suit the alpine latitude,
PH
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.AT
the Ayurveda Resort Sonnhof of-
fers a range of detoxifcation
and stress-reduction treatments.
The cuisine has been adapted
to European tastes while remain-
ing true to ayurvedic
nutritional principles.
Ayurveda Resort Sonnhof,
Hinterthiersee 16, 6335 Thiersee,
Tyrol, +43 5376/5502,
sonnhof-ayurveda.at
SHOP | 41
T H E R M E W I E N
One of the most fashionable city spas
in Europe, this 75,000-square-me-
tre facility is laid out like a river bed,
with various zones called ‘stones’ in
keeping with the river theme. These
diferent areas include the Beauty
Stone, Sauna Stone and Fitness
Stone, and are connected by the
spa’s beautiful landscaping. The
pools range from 27 to 36 °C for
maximum comfort and relaxation.
Our advice? Go with the fow and
see what you discover.
Therme Wien, Kurbadstrasse 14,
1100 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 680 099600,
thermewien.at
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globalblue.com
42 | E X PE R I E NCE
STAY IN STYLE
The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best
SCANDIC
PATRIA
The Scandic Patria near the shores
of Lake Saimaa expertly caters
to guests’ needs. The bedrooms
boast bright, contemporary décor,
the sauna provides a perfect place
in which to relax and the restaurant
is one of the best in town. Visitors
are within walking distance
of Lappeenranta’s boutiques, while
Myllymäki’s designer outlets are
a fve-minute drive away.
Scandic Patria Hotel,
Kauppakatu 21,
53100 Lappeenranta,
+358 (0)5 677511,
scandichotels.com
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E X PE R I E NCE | 43
HTL
KUNGSGATAN
When visiting Stockholm for
a shopping trip, the centrally lo-
cated HTL Kungsgatan is the ideal
place in which to stay. The hotel’s
interior is modern and minimalist
while staf members are endlessly
accommodating. Start the day
by selecting from the breakfast
bufet and return to the hotel’s res-
taurant for dinner; the charcuterie
plate, fsh soup and minute steaks
are menu highlights.
HTL Kungsgatan,
Kungsgatan 53,
111 22 Stockholm,
+46 (0)8 4108 4150, htlhotels.com
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globalblue.com
44 | E X PE R I E NCE
while the carefully chosen furnish-
ings have a period feel. Be sure
to visit the well-appointed spa
with its three treatment rooms,
a hammam steam bath, hydrother-
apy pool and treatments incorpo-
rating products by interationally
renowned skincare specialist
Natura Bissé.
Urso Hotel & Spa,
Mejía Lequerica 8,
28004 Madrid,
+34 91 444 4458,
hotelurso.com
URSO HOTEL & SPA
Located within a neo-classical
20th-century palace, the Urso
Hotel & Spa features a refreshingly
bright and modern interior. The
hotel provides respite from the city
centre while also being within
easy walking distance of some
of Madrid’s fnest shops and at-
tractions. A relaxed ambience is
created through the muted décor
SHOP | 45
PERA PALACE HOTEL JUMEIRAH
Famous guests such as Agatha
Christie, Greta Garbo and Alfred
Hitchcock have stayed at the Pera
Palace Hotel Jumeirah, which still
captivates visitors today. Sample
an Apple Fantasy tea and a Paris-
tanbul pastry at Patisserie de Pera
on the ground foor before going
up to your room in the frst lift in-
stalled in Istanbul. Be sure to visit
the sumptuous Agatha Restaurant
and Orient Bar, inspired by Chris-
tie’s legacy, during your stay.
The hotel’s tranquil spa is the per-
fect place in which to relax after
a day visiting the city’s bustling
bazaars and luxury malls.
Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah,
Meşrutiyet Caddesi 52,
Beyoğlu,
Istanbul,
+90 (0)212 377 4000,
jumeirah.com
GUIDE
GU I DE | 47
Above: Innsbruck’s picturesque old town
PH
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Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Austria with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the best boutiques to the must-see attractions. Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/austria.
A GLIMPSE OF AUSTRIA
48 | GU I DE
VIENNA
Place Of Interest
LANDH AUSGASSE
BU
RG
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SCHMERLINGPL.
VO
LKSGA
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AS
SE
SCHENKENS
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BALLHAUSPLATZ
BR
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KIR
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LÖW
EL
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ITÄ
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RIN
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MARIAHILFERSTR
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FELDERSTR ASSE
LA
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SS
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WIEN
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RE
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ASSE
KO
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TIEFER
GR
AB
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RA
B
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EINFALTSTRASSE HEIDENSCHUSS
BOGNERGASSE
B
ANKGASSE
HERRENGASSE
RATHAUS
VOLKSTHEATER
MUSEUMSQUARTIER
UNIVERSITY OF VIENNA
IMPERIAL
COURT THEATRE
AUSTRIAN
PARLIAMENT
BUILDING
HOFBURG
PALACE
Burggarten
Volksgarten
NATURHISTORISCHE
MUSEUM
KUNSTHISTORISCHES
MUSEUM
MUMOK
SECESSION
U-Bahn Featured In This Issue
page
52
1
page
56
SHOP | 49
B
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PIE
GE
LG
AS
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D
OR
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GA
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ANNAGASSE
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KR
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.
JOHANNESGASSE
KRUGERSTR AS S E
NE
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AR
KT
MAHLERSTR ASSE
HIMMELPFORTGASSE
SINGERSTRASSE
GR
ABEN
ELISABETHSTR ASSE
BAUERNM
AR
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BRANDSTÄTTE
WALFISCHGASSE
K ÄRNTNER RING
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WIPPLINGERSTRASSE
RO
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NT
UR
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TR
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SE
TUCHLAUBEN
AB
EN
WEIHBURGGASSE
STEPHANSPLATZ
KARLSPLATZ
VIENNA STATE
OPERA
ST. STEPHEN'S
CATHEDRAL
page
53
page
52
2
4
1 Massimo Dutti
Discover the international
fashion brand’s first flagship
store in Vienna.
Massimo Dutti, Kohlmarkt 9, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 0488, massimodutti.com
* featured on page 20
2 Louis Vuitton
The summer menswear
collection takes inspiration from
the magnificent architecture
of 20th-century India.
Louis Vuitton, Tuchlauben 3-7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 6151, louisvuitton.com
* featured on page 24
3 Kempinski The Spa
Relax and revive in the heart
of Vienna at this opulent spa.
Kempinski The Spa, Palais Hansen Kempinski Vienna, Schottenring 24, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 236 1000 8090, kempinski.com/wien
* featured on page 40
4 Ludwig Reiter
Explore Austrian shoemaker
Ludwig Reiter’s heritage and
admire its finely crafted footwear.
Ludwig Reiter, Wiedner Hauptstrasse 41, 1040 Vienna, +43 (0)1 505 8258, ludwig-reiter.com
* featured on page 32
SHOP HIGHLIGHTS3
4
A fi rst-class shopping experience at attractive prices.
Discover international brands and regional
highlights in our Heinemann Duty Free shops
at Vienna, Graz, Linz and Salzburg Airports.
You can look forward to browsing elegant
fragrances, high-quality cosmetics, exquisite
spirits, fi ne food, regional specialities and
you can even save up to 30% with our
Special Offers!
Visit us online at heinemann-dutyfree.com
Scan and discover
fi rst-class offers.
52 | GU I DE
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
Kohlmarkt, Naglergasse, Wallnerstrasse, Habsburgergasse & Kärntner Strasse
Place Of Interest
Department Store
Restaurant Featured In This Issue
GLUCKGASSE
BRÄUNERSTR .
JASOMIRGOTTSTR .
BR
ÄUN
ERSTR
ASSE
NAGLERGASSE
ANNAGASSE
GOETHEGASSE
BOGNERG.
HAN
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GA
SSE
JOHANNESGASSE
SPIE
GELG
ASSE
SP
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ELG
AS
SE
DOROTHEERGASSE
D
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ASSE
BRANDSTÄTTE
PLANKENGASSE
TEGETTH
OFFSTR
.
FÜHRICHG ASSE
KÄ
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KÄ
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Neuer Markt
JOS
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GUSTINERS
TR
.
WALFISCHGASS E
H ABSBURGERG.
GRABEN
STEINDLGASSE
B
AUERNMARKT
GOLDSCHMIEDGASSEKOHLMARKT
TUCHLAUBEN
KRUGERSTR ASSE
BLACK DIAMOND ●
BRÜHL ●
BURBERRY ●
BREGUET ●
AKRIS ●
DIOR ●
TIFFANY & CO. ●DIESEL ●
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ●
TOMMY HILFIGER ●CHOPARD ●
OPTIK PILWEIN ● ANTIK JUWELEN ●
LORO PIANA ●SCHULLIN ●
● CA
RTIER
● BREITLIN
G
● G
IORG
IO A
RMA
NI
● J. BERG
ER BUCH
HA
ND
LUN
G
● CH
● A
NEL
D’A
●
MBRO
SIO
FOG
AL
● G
U●
CCISCH
ULLIN
● LE KIFF
● SA
LVATORE
FERRAGA
MO
● CH
EGIN
I
● H
ÄM
MERLE
● M
ON
CLER
● M
ASSIM
O D
UTTI
● FREY
TAG & BERN
DT
● RO
ZET & FISCH
MEISTER
● SU
SAN
A MICH
AEL PETKO
V
● A
NN
A
● D
OU
GLA
S
HO
USE O
F
● G
ENTLEM
EN
● LO
DEN PLA
NKL
THOMAS SABO ●
DOLCE & GABBANA ●
PRIORITY
● CO
NCEPT STO
RE
● BRÜHL & SÖHNE
● ELLA VIENNA
● GERRY WEBER
● STEFANEL
● HUMANIC
● FOREVER 21
● ESPRIT
● GERSTNER
● DOUGLAS
● SIR ANTHONY
● STREET ONE
● D´AMBROSIO● SALAMANDER
● WEMPE
● CASINO WIEN
BENETTON ● MEGASTORE
SWAROVSKI ●
DOHNAL ●
SWATCH ●
BENETTON ●
PAUL VIENNA ●
JONES GEOX ●
RADO ●
WOLFORD ●
MANGO●
SWAROVSKI ●
DOUGLAS ●
LOBMEYR ●
MARIONNAUD ●
JUWELIER WAGNER ●
TALLY WEIJL ●
DESIGUAL ●
CIRO ●
ZAK ●
JUWELIER BUCHERER ●
● OMEGA● WMF
NESPRESSO ●
CECCONI ●
FREY WILLE ●
DOTZAUER ●
● POPP & KRETSCHMER
SALAMANDER ●
Peek & Cloppenburg
Steffl
MÜHLBAUER ●
JOSEPH ●
● CAVALLI
MIU M
IU ●
● COLLI
HUGO BOSS ●
● AM
ICIS MEN
ZARA ●SISLEY ●
● CHANEL
● LOUIS VUITTON
● PRADA
ETRO ●
BOTTEGA VENETA ●
VALENTINO ●
● SCHEER
● IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN
Shiki
P.24
P.14
P.60
P.60
P.20
SHOP | 53
Graben, Bauernmarkt, Brandstätte, Rotenturmstrasse & Stephensplatz
JASOMIRGOTTSTR.
KR
AM
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AS
SE N
AGLERG
ASSE
BO
GN
ER
G.
BRANDSTÄTTE
GR
AB
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ST
EIN
DLG
ASSE
BA
U
ERNMARKT
GOLDSCHMIEDGASSEK
OH
LMA
RK
T
T
UCHLAUBEN
LOUIS VUITTON●
EMPORIO ARMANI ●
● TIMBERLAND
Stephansplatz
● A
DIDAS
INA KENT ●
● S OLIVER● HERMÈS● KÖCK ● NAPAPIJRI
● ESCADA● SCHWÄBISCHE JUNGFRAU
● NÄGELE & STRUBELL
● SWATCH ●CAMPER
LACOSTE ●SALAMANDER ●
WOLFORD ●
MONTBLANC ●MONSOON/ACCESSORIZE ●
HELDWEIN ●
KNIZE ●BALLY ●
IWC ●PAUL & SHARK ●
MARC O’POLO ●VERSACE ●
● JUWELIER WAGNER
● S
TIEFELKÖNIG
● A
RTUP
● ROLEX
● PANDORA
VIVIE
NNE
● W
ESTWOOD
● S OLIVER
●
VILLEROY●
& BOCH
COS
● R
EPLAY
OSKA ●
D’AMBROSIO ●
● C
LOSED
● S
PORTALM
● A
MIC
ISST STEPHEN’S
CATHEDRAL
WEMPE
Wempe is on a mission to keep
watch lovers happy with the lat-
est addition to its Zeitmeister
line. The new fagship style, the
Wempe Zeitmeister Glashütte
i/SA Chronograph Mondphase
Vollkalender, combines two
of the most popular horologi-
cal features of previous styles,
a chronograph and a full calen-
dar including moon phase rank
to chart the lunar cycle. Other
highlights include a 24-hour dis-
play and a pleasingly practical
date display made up of a circle
of dates that surrounds the dial.
Once completed, each timepiece
must undergo a rigorous 15-day
testing procedure and is only
approved if it reaches Wempe’s
exacting standards.
Wempe,
Kärntner Strasse 41,
1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 512 3322,
wempe.com
P.24
globalblue.com
56 | GUIDE
Global Blue Retailer
Place Of Interest
Non-Global Blue Retailer Department Store
Mariahilfer Strasse
KIRCHENGASSE
THEOBALDGA
SSE
WINDMÜHLGASSE
S
CH
AD
EK
GA
SS
E
LAIMGRUBENGASSE
KÖSTLERGASSE
GIRARDIGASSE
LUFTB
AD
GA
SS
E D
ÜR
EGA
SSE
RIC
HT
ER
GA
SS
E
STIEGENGASSE
JOANELLIGASSE
LINK
E WIEN
ZE
LLE
ESCHENBACHGASSE
HERMANNGASSE ANDREASGASSE
ZO LLERGASSE
KARL-SCHWEIGHOFER-GASSE
LIND
ENG
ASSE LIN
DEN
GA
SS
E
A
MERLINGSTRASSE MONDSCHEINGA
SS
E
NEUBAUGASSE
NEUBAUGASSE
GUM
PE
ND
OR
FE
R S
TR
AS
SE
GU
MP
END
OR
FER STRA
SSE
SIE
BE
NS
TE
RN
GA
SS
E
S
IE BE
NS
TE
RN
GA
SS
E
STIFTGASSE MARIAHILFER STRASSE M
AR
IAH
ILFER S
TRA
SS
E MA
RIA
HILFER STR
ASSE
MA
RIA
HILFER STR
ASS
E
PELZHAUS FUSS ●
APOTHEKE ●
SUDWIND ●
LEINER ●
DM ●
RAG ●
SMART PHONE CENTER ●
BAWAG ●
MAJOLIE PARIS ●
BOUTIQUE MIMI ●
AMERICAN APPAREL ●
GALERIE OTTO ●
A1 ●
NEW YORKER ●
TUREK ●
UHREN BOHNEL ●
SALAMANDER ●
TCHIBO ●
WEIN & CO ●
JACK & JONES ●
STREET ONE ●
REITER ●
MERKUR ●
ZARA ●
SATURN ●
BONITA ●
PALMERS ●
PROMOD ●
INTIMISSIMI ●
ESPRIT ●
PUMA ●
S OLIVER ●
THURZO FOR YOU ●
SIX ●
KOMOLKA ● A1 ●
MAX SHOES ●
DOUGLAS ●
PIMKIE ●
VIP ●
ETERNA ●
LADY JAY ●
SWATCH ●
TUREK ●
● BLAUMAX
● HIRMER
● HUMANIC
● KARE
● GRÜNE ERDE
● BIJOU BRIGITTE
ANSICHTS KAUFEN
● WIEN ZENTRALE
● BUTLERS
● INTERIO
● BOSE
● L’OCCITANE
● BRANDY MELVILLE
● ALISA’S
● MANDARINA DUCK
● PULLOVERIA
● BUSSY BUSSY
● BENETTON
● GABOR
● SKINY
● JEANS SHOP
● CLAIRE’S
● WALTER WEISS
● ROECKL
● BILLA
● HUMANIC
● PANDORA
● H&M
● DEICHMANN
● JONES
● VOGUE
● NETZ
● FOREVER 21
● BERSHKA
● LUSH
● ORANGE
● TECNIK MODERN
● SNIPES
● DOROTHEUM
● HALLHUBER
● TOM TAILOR DENIM
● M.GIBIAN
● H&M
● PEAK PERFORMANCE
● H�GL
APOTHEKE
● ZUR MARIAHILFER
● DESIGUAL
● OBERWALDER
● HARTLAUER
● WEIN ENERGY
● 3
● FIELMANN
● CALZEDONIA
● OPTIK CORSO
● NEUNER
ENERGIE /
● KILLAH
C&A ●
LEOPOLD MUSEUM
INA KENT ●
PARK ●
CAMILLE BOYER ●
Peek &
Cloppenburg
Gerngross
● LICHTERLOH
● L
EN
A H
OS
CH
EK
● SAINT CHARLES APOTHEKE
● YOGESH
INA KENT ●
ARNOLD’S ●
ECCO Store Vienna · Kärntner Straße 47 · 1010 Vienna · +43 1 512 2962
ecco.com
60 | GU I DE
BUCHERER
Heritage watchmaker H Moser
& Cie and fne jeweller Bucherer
have a lot in common. These in-
dependent companies from Ger-
man-speaking areas of Switzer-
land were founded in the 19th
century and so it is natural that
they are long-time collabora-
tors. Their most recent project
– an addition to the existing
Venturer line – is the Venturer
Small Seconds Bucherer Edi-
tion. In white gold and with
a 1960s convex design, the
watch is inspired by H Moser
& Cie’s historic pocket watches.
Be sure to seek out this watch
while in Vienna, as it is exclu-
sively available in Bucherer bou-
tiques in Germany, Switzerland
and Austria.
Bucherer,
Kärntner Strasse 2,
1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 512 6730,
bucherer.com
* for map go to page 52
SHIKI
This fne-dining Japanese
brasserie and bar ofers an in-
teresting contrast to traditional
Austrian dishes. Shiki opened
early this year and takes its
name from the Japanese terms
for both ‘four seasons’ and
‘conducting’. Diners can ex-
pect a seasonally tailored menu
as well as classics such as wagyu
beef, sashimi and tempura.
Don’t miss the bar food, which
includes playful, lighter bites
like tonkatsu sandwich and
sushi pizzetta.
Shiki,
Krugerstrasse 3, 1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 512 7397, shiki.at
* for map go to page 52
PH
OT
O: B
RU
NO
KLO
MFA
R
globalblue.com
62 | GUIDE
FA
BE
RS
TR
AS
SE
SCHRANNENGASSE
PARIS-LODRON-STRASSE
WO
LF
-DIE
TR
ICH
-ST
RA
SS
E
BE
RG
ST
RA
SS
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PR
OE
ST
ER
H
AUSG
.
AUERSPERGSTR.
S TEING ASSE
GISELAK AI
ELISAB
ETHKAI
MÖNCHSBERG
M
ÖN
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SB
ER
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L
INZ
ER
GA
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LINZER GASSE
K APITELGASSE
HO
FSTALLG
.
M
AR
KA
RT
ST
EG
SC
HW
AR
ZSTR
ASSE
IM BERGSTRASSE
KAIPROMENADE
RUDOLFSKAI
FRANZ-JOSEFS-KAI
GETREIDEGASSE
JUDENG.
GRIESGASSEMÜ
NZ
G.
DR
EIF
AL
TIG
KE
ITS
GA
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FRANZ-JOSEF-STRASSE FR
AN
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SE
F-S
TR
AS
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KAIGASS
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MO
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DR
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UNIVERSITÄTSPL ATZ
RESID ENZPLATZ
SIG
MU
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WR
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AR
MO
NIK
ER
-G.
SALZBURG CATHEDRAL
MOZART’S
GERBURTSHAUS
SCHLOSS MIRABELL
MUSEUM
DER MODERNE
MIRABELLGARTEN
MOZART-
WOHNHAUS
Café Sacher
Konditorei Ratzka
Kapitelplatz
Domplatz
Max-Reinhardt-Platz Residenzplatz
Alter Platz
Mozartplatz
Waagplatz
Makartplatz
AlterMarkt
SALZBURG
Place Of Interest Featured In This Issue
P.67
P.67
P.66
P.66
Cafe
WIEN · SALZBURG · ZELL AM SEE · GRAZ · LINZ · KLAGENFURT · SPITTAL
INNSBRUCK · WÖRGL · VELDEN · VILLACH · WELS · TELFS · VÖLS · KREMS
ST. PÖLTEN · RIED · BREGENZ · BÜRS · OUTLET PARNDORF
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www.gerryweber.com
GU I DE | 65
Alter Markt & Waagplatz Area
GO
LD
GA
SS
E
DÖLLERGÄSS
CH
EN
BR
OD
GA
SS
E
RUDOLFSKAI
RUDOLFSKAI
ST
AA
TS
BR
ÜC
KE
Mozartplatz
Residenzplatz
Alt
er M
arkt
Rat
haus
plat
z
SIG
MU
ND
-HA
FF
NE
R-G
AS
SE
WAAGPLATZ
JUDENGASSE JUDENGASSE
Waagplatz
RESIDENZPLATZ
Alter Markt
JEANS ONLY ●
ZILLERTALERTRACHTENWELT ●
GANT ●C. DEMZE ●
● F
OR
ST
EN
LEC
HN
ER
SOUVENÏRMAROJ ●
KOPFBERGER ●
STRANNER ●
● S
. OLI
VE
R●
FO
SS
IL
● D
ALL
ING
ER
● W
OLF
OR
D
● COLLINS HÜTE● PUUR
● KOPPENWALLNER ROSITA● KÖCHERT ●
NOMINATION ● PANDORA ● PRADA ● PALMERS ● AUGARTEN ● HERMÈS ●SILLAM ●
● ESCADA
● KOPPENWALLNER
● AIGNER
● OPTIK SLATNER
Café Tomaselli
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
Featured In This Issue
BANG & OLUFSEN
When it comes to sound, Dan-
ish audio expert Bang & Olufsen
knows its stuf. The company
not only creates some of the
best-quality headphones and
home audio systems in the
world, but also prides itself
on pushing the boundaries
of premium sound. It’s no sur-
prise, then, that Bang & Olufsen
has launched the world’s frst
high-end, compact wireless
speakers. The new BeoLab 17
speakers, most recently rein-
vented in a matte black fnish,
are beautifully minimalist,
crafted from a single piece of ex-
truded aluminium. With their
Bluetooth wireless connectivity
they can be used throughout
your home, ensuring you are
surrounded by premium sounds
whatever you’re doing.
Bang & Olufsen,
Greisburger, Schwarzstrasse 6,
5020 Salzburg,
+43 (0)662 640654,
bang-olufsen.com
P.66
Cafe
66 | GU I DE
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
Featured In This Issue
Cafe
Judengasse, Sigmund Hafner Gasse Hagenauerplatz & Rathausplatz
GO
LD
GA
SS
E
DÖLLERGÄSS
CH
EN
BR
OD
GA
SS
E
RUDOLFSKAI
Alt
er M
arkt
Rat
haus
plat
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Hag
enau
erpl
atz
S
IGM
UN
D-H
AF
FN
ER
-GA
SS
E
JUDENGASSE JUDENGASSE
Waagplatz
CHURFÜRSTSTR.
RESIDENZPLATZ
Alter Markt
● L
AN
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● F
OS
SIL
● D
IE B
RÏL
LE●
RIG
LER
’S●
WO
LFO
RD
S O
LIV
ER ●
A1 ●
ALE
SSI
C ●
RO
SITT
A ●
PAN
DO
RA
●
MANGO ●
UHREN SIEGL ●
● STIEFELKÖNIG
● MAYER
● M
ON
TBLA
NC
● G
EHM
AC
HER
● E
SP
RIT
● B
RO
WN
● L
UM
AS
CH
RIS
TMA
S●
IN S
ALZ
BU
RG
● B
OG
GI M
ILA
NO
● LACOSTE● DIVAEC FASHION● & BASICS● CRAI● BOGNER● WINDSOR
G
IFTS
& T
HIN
GS
● S
TEFA
NEL
●
ZIL
LER
TALE
RTR
ACH
TEN
WEL
T ●
LA
UR
EL ●
● HUGO BOSS
● MIA SCHUHE
TEA & CO ●
● MANNER
● LUDWIG REITER
● T
RA
CH
TEN
SC
HA
CH
TNER
● DALLINGER
● SPERL
HÄMMERLE ●
Café Konditorei Fürst
NEW
ON
E BY
SCH
ULL
IN ●
B
RA
UN
●
1. Café Sacher
One of Salzburg’s oldest cafés, Café Sacher has been in operation since 1886. Enjoy a slice of the famous Sacher-torte on the sunny terrace.Café Sacher, Hotel Sacher Salzburg, Schwarzstrasse 5-7, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 889770, sacher.com
* for map go to page 62
2. Konditorei Ratzka
The sweet treats produced by the Ratzka family are considered some of the best in Austria and the marillenfleck (apricot cake) is well-known for very good reason. Konditorei Ratzka, Imbergstrasse 45, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 640024
* for map go to page 62
3. Café Tomaselli
There has been a café on the site where
Café Tomaselli stands for over 300 years.
The Kiosk, a shaded garden area, is a
must-visit during the summer months.
Café Tomaselli, Alter Markt 9, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 844 4880, tomaselli.at
* for map go to page 65
TOP 3 AFTERNOON TEA SPOTS
PH
OTO
: © W
IEN
TOU
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MU
S/P
ET
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KO
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SHOP | 67
Above: bust of Mozart, Salzburg
ST
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SC
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GRIESGASSE
UNIVERSITÄTSPL.
MÜ
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GA
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PIT
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GETREIDEGASSE GETREIDEGASSE
DE
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PALM
ER
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DA
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DO
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Carp
e Diem
Getreidegasse
1. Mozarts Geburtshaus
Begin your tour at the house where the composer was born in 1756 and spent his early life. Admire the musical prodigy’s childhood instruments and enjoy three different exhibitions.Mozarts Geburtshaus, Getreidegasse 9, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 844313, mozarteum.at/museen/mozarts-geburtshaus
* for map go to page 62
2. Mozart-Wohnhaus
Move on to Mozart’s residence, also
known as the Tanzmeisterhaus, which is
now a museum.
Mozart Wohnhaus, Makartplatz 8, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 8742 2740, mozarteum.at
* for map go to page 62
3. Salzburger Mozartkugeln
These chocolate, marzipan and nougat confections, named after the composer, are a must-try and can be found at confectionery stores across the city.
TOP 3 MOZART ATTRACTIONS
PH
OTO
: TO
UR
ISM
US
SA
LZB
UR
G
P.98
68 | GUIDE
ALBRECHTG
ASSE
FELLINGERG.
LE
ND
PL
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MA
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SP
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GA
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CLOCK TOWER
GRAZ ART MUSEUM
MURINSEL
LANDHAUSHOF
Schlossberg
SüdtirolerPlatz
Place Of Interest
GRAZ
page
76
page
72
page
74
SHOP | 69
ALBERSTR.
H
AY
DN
GA
SS
E
S AUR AUGASSE
M
AIF
FR
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GLEISDORFER GASSE
GIR ARDIGASSE
DIETR ICHSTEINPLATZKL
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GA
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TUM
MELPL .
BU
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BÜ
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BIS
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OF
PL
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BU
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ELISABETHSTRASSE
MANDELLSTRASSE
HE
RR
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GA
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ERZHER ZO G-JOHANN-ALLEE
GL
AC
ISS
TR
AS
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JOANNEUMRING
Jakominiplatz
ST. CATHERINE'S
CHURCH AND
MAUSOLEUM
OPERA
Stadtpark
page
76
page
74
globalblue.com
AIOLA IM SCHLOSS SANKT VEIT, Andritzer Reichstraße 144
AIOLA UPSTAIRS, Schlossberg 2
AUSTRIA TREND HOTEL EUROPA GRAZ Bahnhofgürtel 89
CAFÉ PROMENADE Erzherzog-Johann-Allee 1
CAFÉ RESTAURANT SORGER, Sporgasse 4
DELIKATESSEN FRANKOWITSCH, Stempfergasse 2-4
DER STEIRER, Belgiergasse 1
DREIZEHN GENUSSBAR, Franziskanerplatz 13
ECKSTEIN, Mehlplatz 3
EDLER’S CATERING Alte Universität
FREIBLICK BY ECKSTEIN Dachterrasse K&Ö/Sackstr. 7-13
GLÖCKL BRÄU Glockenspielplatz 2-3
GÖSSERBRÄU Neutorgasse 48
KIRCHENWIRT MARIATROST Kirchplatz 9
KITCHEN 12, Kaiser Josef Platz 3
LANDHAUS-KELLER Schmiedgasse 9
LA ENOTECA, Sackstraße 14
PRATO IM PALAIS, Sackstraße 16
RESTAURANT CARL Opernring 5a
RESTAURANT FLORIAN IM ROMANTIK PARKHOTEL Leonhardstraße 8
RESTAURANT IM CAFÉ SACHER, Herrengasse 6
RESTAURANT TAFELZIMMER IM HOTEL NOVAPARK Fischeraustraße 22
REVITA GASTRONOMIE & CASINO RESTAURANT Sparkassenplatz 1
SAN PIETRO St. Peter Hauptstraße 141
SCHLOSSBERG, Schlossberg 7
STAINZERBAUER, Bürgergasse 4
STARCKE HAUS, Schlossberg 4
TONI LEGENSTEIN CATERING, www.tonilegensteincatering.at
ZUR STEIRERSTUB’N Lendplatz 8
» GRAZ – AUSTRIA’S CAPITAL OF CULINARY DELIGHTS «All partner restaurants of the capital of culinary delights have one thing in common: they share the passion for regional products. And the creativity for new interpretation of traditional recipes:
www.genusshauptstadt.at
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Sackstrasse, Hauptplatz & Herrengasse
HOFGASSE
STEMPFERGASSE
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LANDHAUSGASSE
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ANTIKES KABINETT ●
KUTTLER PELZE ●
KASTNER & ÖHLER ●
THOMAS SABO ●
BILLA BOX ●
HÄMMERLE ●
GERRY WEBER ●
VERA MODA /
JACK JONES ●
TEZENIS ●
H&M ●
WOLFORD ●
PEARL ●
ARA SHOP ●
WURZELSEPP ●
ADLER APOTHEKE ●
TRACHTENSCHLÖSSL ●
HUBERT AUER ●
BILLA ●
LÖSCHNIGG ●
● 3
● BIG BAR
● HUMANIC
● PIM
KIE
● SCHULLIN
● BONITA
● SALAMANDER
● KLAMMERTH
● M
OTHWURF
● FIELMANN
STEFANEL ●
TAMARIS ●
GRAZ TOURISM ●
MARIONNAUD ●
OPTIK WUTSCHER ●
NÄGELE & STRUBELL ●
DOUGLAS ●
TRIUMPH ●
DAS KLEINE PERLENHAUS ●
JONES ●
HEINDL ●
STEIFELKÖNIG ●
ONLY ●
INTIMISSIMI ●
TCHIBO ●
JUWEILER
● SCHREINER
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● BÄRENAPOTHEKE
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● LIEBESKIND
● CLAIRE’S
● HUT & MODE
● YVES ROCHER
● NEW YORKER
● M
ODA ITALIA
● DIETMAR HAAS
● SWAROVSKI
● GOLDZANDER
● PARFUMERIE PILZ
● LUSH
● HERMANN W
EIKHARD
● M
ARIONNAUD
● RUEFA
● THE BODY SHOP
● TALLY W
EIJL
● NESPRESSO
● LUDWIG REITER
INTERIO ●
● PALMERS
● TCHIBO
● FERDINAND HALLER
● CALZEDONIA
EIS DEMEL ●
ACCESSORIZE ●
● PALMERS
● BANG & OLUFSENHauptplatz
Z ZEGNA
Ermenegildo Zegna, one of the
most esteemed textile manufac-
turers in the world, understands
tailoring perfectly. However,
at its debut show this season
at Pitti Uomo, Florence men’s
fashion week, the brand’s di-
rectional ready-to-wear line Z
Zegna eschewed the formalities
of traditional tailoring for an al-
together more sporting aesthet-
ic. The collection ventures into
digitally printed hooded anoraks
and textured knitted cardigans
in a palette of emerald greens
and deep blues with fashes
of metallics and neon, and even
the more traditional two-button
sports jackets and tailored trou-
sers are designed to be worn
with on-trend sneakers.
Kastner and Öhler,
Sackstrasse 7-13,
8010 Graz,
+43 (0)316 870 3000,
zegna.com
Featured In This Issue
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Hans Sachs Gasse, Stubenberggasse, Kaiserfeldgasse, Girardigasse, Opernring & Joanneumring
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F.AMBERGER ●
TAUSENDSCHÖN ●
● NORTHLAND
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● BENETTON
● G
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.CC
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●
BU
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ÖG
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●BER
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PIA A
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ANNA MARIA ●
● BIPA
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● LENA HOSCHEK
● RIEGLER
● KNILLI
● WEIN & CO
HA
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S G
AS
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H&M ●
ZARA ●
HOH ●
NEUROTH ●
BREINEDER GIBISER ●
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
SCHLOSS EGGENBERG
Part of Graz’s world heritage site,
Schloss Eggenberg is an integral
part of the city’s history. Built
in the 17th century for the im-
perial governor of the time, the
grand style of the castle was in-
tended as a symbol of power and
legitimacy. The baroque and
rococo interiors have been care-
fully preserved – be sure to look
up while you explore, as there are
over 500 ceiling paintings from
the 17th century to admire.
Schloss Eggenberg,
Eggenberger Allee 90,
8020 Graz,
+43 (0)316 8017 9532,
museum-joanneum.at
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GR
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US
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OF
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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
Murgasse, Sporgasse, Hofgassse, Stempfergasse, Raubergasse & Schmiedgasse
Place Of Interest
STUBENBERGGASSE
HOFGASSE
STEMPFERGASSE
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PILATUS ●
KÜBECK
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WIESAU
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FIELMAN
N ●
● ROLLETT
● SCALA
FRIEBE ●
GRAZIELLA ●
OPTIK WUTSCHER ●
GLORIETTE ●
HARTLAUER ●
NEOSINO ●
PIERRE GABBIANA ●
OPTIK WUTSCHER ●
DI DONNA ●
GEOX ●
HEINDL ●
DOUGLAS ●
IMPERIO ●
JEREMYS ●
FOOTLOCKER ●
NEW ONE ●
SWATCH ●
SIX ●
ORSAY ●
● MAX & CO
● PURE HOF
● M
ODE AM HOF
● ● ELENI
● WERKSTADT GRAZ
UHRENGALERIE CHRISTIAN SCHÖGL
● ● TIK TAK
●
GRAZIELLA
STYRIA BRIEFMARKEN
● ●
BAZAAR
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BRANDT
PETER SCALA
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SONNENTOR
WILLY SUPPER
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MONIKA
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SCHEDIWY
T�UBEL-UHREN
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INICIE
VOG
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VOG
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BRILLEN THEO ●
BRÜHL ●
ANNABELLA ●
NIVEA HAUS ●
SPIELZEUGSCHACHTL ●
● CAMERA AT SHOP GRAZ
● ANTIKE VIELFALL
● TARRA COLLE
● SEIDL
● LEDER SCHUSTER
● L’OCCITANE
● JACADI PARIS
● ANTIQUITATEN BOB
● CITY CLASSIC HANS-SACHS-GASSE
NEUE
GALERIE
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Herzog Friedrich Strasse
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KIE
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EINWALLER OUTLET ●
● EGGER
● APOTHEKE● VAN LAACK
● CLAIRE’S
● DOUGLAS
● PALMERS
● TIR
OLER
HEIM
AT
WER
KE
● HUMANIC
● TYROLIA
● BONITA
● TCHIBO
● DANTENDORFER
GOLDEN
ROOF
ANNA
COLUMN
● EINWALLER SPORTSMANN
● EINWALLER SPORTSFRAU
● SWAROVSKI
Café Katzung
SPORTALM ●
BLODER ●
HÖBEL ●
STEINBOCK ●
CIRO ●
NÄGELE & STRUBELL ●
SPAR ●
WILHELM ●
MOZART SHOP ●
EINWALLER JOSEF ●
FREY WILLE ●
EINWALLER ANNA ●
PALMERS ●
● TOMMY HILFIGER
● SALAMANDER
JULIUS HAMPL ●
GERRY WEBER ●
GOLDSCHMIEDE NORZ ●
CADENZA ●
MÜLLER ●
GEOX ●
THOMAS SABO ●
Rathaus Galerie
INTIMISSIMI ●
DOROTHEUM ●
BENETTON ●
Kaufaus Tyrol
● COS
● SPORTLER WITTNIG
● LEITNER JUWELEN
HUGO ● BOSS ● DENKSTEIN
NE
SP
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O ●
● M
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NA
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● INTERSPORT
Hotel Penz
HARTLAUER ●
Eduard-Wallnöfer-Platz
Adolf-Pichler-Platz
SWAROVSKI E
NNSMANN ●
PANDORA ●
JUW
ELIER W
ITZM
ANN ●
WOLFORD ●
● WEIGAND
● G-STAR SIS
LEY
●● K
IEHLS
● FEINHEITEN
& LA
IR SCH
MITT ●
NA
RPU
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MOREBOARDS ●HUBER ●
Place Of Interest
Shopping Centre/Mall
Café Featured In This Issue
INNSBRUCK
SELECTED
STORES IN
KAUFHAUS
TYROL:
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BENETTON
BEELINE
CECIL
CROCS
DANILIN
DEICHMANN
DEPOT
DOLCE VITA
ESPRIT
FOREVER 18
G-STAR
HARTLAUER
H&M
HUMANIC
HOME INTERIOR
INTERSPORT
PEEK &
CLOPPENBURG
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SATURN
SWATCH
WMF
P.23
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Herzog-Friedrich-Straße 39
6020 Innsbruck, Austria
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TRANSLATIONS
26: City Of Fragrance
Город ароматов
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД
Парфюмерная история Вены переживает новый виток. Верити Хоган рассказывает об авторских ароматах, получивших международное признание
«Некоторые ингредиенты в составе композиций стоят дороже золота», - отмечает Германн Фангаузер, представитель бренда Wendy & Jim. Он говорит о Drop No 01 – одной из самых обсуждаемых в Вене новинок. Парфюмерная история австрийской столицы насчитывает несколько веков, и особое место в ней отведено эпохе Габсбургов. В наши дни здесь можно встретить самые
разные подходы к созданию духов: и воссозданные оригинальные рецепты, и современную интерпретацию классики, и совершенно новые решения.
Бренд Wendy & Jim занял ведущую позицию среди венских парфюмеров. В модных кругах уже живо обсуждались коллекции мужской и женской одежды этой марки, а теперь не меньший интерес вызвал и дебютный аромат унисекс. «Цветочные нотки раскрывают более глубокие оттенки композиции, и естественная, темная, сексуальная основа мягко обволакивает вас, - объясняет Фангаузер. – Пожалуй, это применимо и к нашему стилю в одежде».
В составе Drop No 01 преобладают натуральные и органические компоненты, что открывает для него совершенно новую нишу. Дизайнеры творчески подошли и к оформлению флаконов, которые вполне заслуженно можно назвать самыми оригинальными на рынке. Партнером проекта выступила старинная фарфоровая мануфактура Augarten, которая разработала бутылочки в форме лисьего черепа. «Мы изначально хотели, чтобы роскошная упаковка ассоциировалась с очень дорогим парфюмом, -
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делится Фангаузер. – Лиса – это красивое и умное животное. А наш партнер Augarten идеально воплотил наше пожелание. Вместе мы добились успеха: теперь в нашей линии уже четыре вариации».
Бренд WienerBlut предпочел другой путь: он преодолевает границы между старинными и современными композициями. Особого успеха компания добилась в адаптации имперских эссенций к потребностям современной аудитории. В то же время, она может себе позволить преодолеть традицию, если это обусловлено задачей: «Нас не интересуют тренды: мы предпочитаем создавать то, что нам нравится, и расставлять совершенно новые акценты, - объясняет основатель компании Александр Лаубер. – Иногда достаточно взглянуть на старинную композицию по-новому, чтобы она стала намного более современной, чем многое, что мы привыкли характеризовать этим словом».
Серия ароматов этой марки основана на одном из самых популярных ароматов Вены 19 века Taschentuch-Parfums. Каждая эссенция составляется вручную из роскошных исходных материалов по итогам обширного анализа. Для Лаубера стало большим удивление, что духи того времени зачастую оказываются весьма новаторскими. «Мне кажется по-настоящему
интересным, что при всех технологических ограничениях того времени, многие парфюмы рассказывали истории, раскрывали мечты и фантазии», - говорит он.
Аналогично тому, как определенные оттенки становятся невероятно популярными в наши дни, и в Империи на ароматы влияли актуальные тогда тренды. «Популярность морских ванн во времена Belle Époque спровоцировала появление десятков композиций на тему океана. É это притом, что современные морские сочетания еще не существовали, - отмечает Лаубер. – Наш новый аромат Sale Marino посвящен той эпохе и создан под воздействием императорской Австрийской Ривьеры, территорию которой сегодня занимают Éталия и Хорватия. Поскольку ее называют лавровым побережьем, именно душистый лавр стал доминантой».
Внимание к деталям в полной мере проявилось и в дизайне упаковок WienerBlut. Элегантные флаконы из качественного стекла ручной работы украшены блестящей крышечкой и приклеенной вручную этикеткой. «Подобная изысканность призвана продемонстрировать значительность вложенных усилий, идей, времени, - объясняет Лаубер. – Разумеется, не обходится без небольших
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отклонений, поскольку процессом управляют не машины или роботы. Но это лишь делает каждый предмет неповторимым и, как следствие, придает очарование».
Но, пожалуй, максимальной уникальности достигает Йогеш Кумар – один из самых талантливых парфюмеров Вены. Последние 23 года он создает ароматные эссенции на заказ. На основе естественной химии каждого клиента он проектирует четыре варианта. Прежде чем сделать окончательный выбор, он предлагает протестировать образцы. В результате покупатель получает не просто индивидуальный, но и идеально подходящий ему парфюм, аналогов которому в мире просто нет.
Йогеш Кумар, WienerBlut и Wendy & Jim – это далеко не полный перечень тех, благодаря кому развивается современная парфюмерная история Вены. Многие только-только делают первые шаги в этой сфере, как, например, Лена Хошек. Компания с большой историей JB Filz, напротив, работает с 1892 года и продолжает поддерживать устойчивую репутацию. Словом, история венской авторской парфюмерии совершает новый виток и, похоже, не собирается останавливаться на достигнутом. wendyjim.com, wienerblut.at, dasparfum.com, lenahoschek.com, parfumerie-flz.at
32: A Family Afair
Семейное дело
Джош Симс рассказывает об обувной мануфактуре Ludwig Reiter, которая не только с почтением сохраняет венские ремесленные традиции, но и продолжает развиваться, вызывая интерес нового поколения
Ludwig Reiter воплощает лучшие традиции венских обувщиков. «Наша компания – последняя историческая мануфактура обуви, сохранившаяся в Вене, - объясняет Телль Райтер, глава семейного предприятия уже в четвертом поколении. – Это не просто печальный факт, но и усложняющий нашу работу фактор. Раньше было больше поставщиков, станочников, рабочих и мастеров. А теперь не так просто найти людей, способных профессионально выполнять сложные манипуляции».
По словам Райтера, во времена его деда, то есть в 1920-30-е годы, Вена была настоящим модным центром Европы, в том числе – благодаря традиционным ремеслам: «Австрийская столица заметно влияла на мировую моду, здесь сталкивались самые разные культуры. Сейчас Австрия, как и Англия или Италия, - одна из немногих стран, где до сих пор хранятся и поддерживаются исторические традиции ремесленного обувного дела».
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На английском языке обувь ручной работы самого высокого качества называется bench-made – в дословном переводе «сделанная на скамье обувщика». Так и каждая пара Ludwig Reiter буквально создается на специальных скамьях квалифицированными мастерами. А ведь это не меньше 200 отдельных манипуляций! Фирменным знаком компании стал рант Goodyear, который вшивается между основной частью обуви и подошвой. Эта кожаная лента предохраняет ботинки от промокания, а также позволяет бесконечно обновлять подошву по мере необходимости. Эта технология остается неизменной уже 130 лет – со времен внедрения обувщиком из Богемии и основателем компании Людвигом Райтером I.
Подобные предприятия с большой историей, как
правило, становятся оплотом классического стиля. Именно поэтому в Ludwig Reiter часто обращаются за ботинками для театральных постановок и фильмов: например, для мини-сериала 2014 года «Гудини» с Эдрианом Броуди в главной роли. Но классика, по словам Тилля Райтера, «не может быть статичной вечной»: «Она тоже развивается со временем. Люди ходят пешком намного больше, чем раньше, поэтому современная обувь не должна быть слишком плотной или устойчивой к разнашиванию. Зачастую бывает сложно доказать тем, кто перемещается только между офисом и машиной, что однажды разношенная обувь ручной работы превращается в невероятно удобную».
Классичность стиля не означает, что у Ludwig Reiter нет эксклюзивных характерных черт. Тилль Райтер утверждает,
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что силуэты этой марки более узкие и ассиметричные, чем английские, кроме того, у компании собственные традиции отделки. Среди самых востребованных моделей Ludwig Reiter знатоки венского стиля особенно выделяют броуги Budapester с открытой шнуровкой-дерби и практичные сапоги Maronibrater с войлочным голенищем, напоминающие зимнюю обувь альпийских лесорубов прошлых веков.
Может показаться неожиданным, что в коллекции бренда есть и классические кроссовки, переосмысленные после сотрудничества с австрийским дизайнером Хельмутом Лангом. Как шутит Райтер, «специально для тех, кто и в самом деле не хочет разнашивать обувь». Изначально в 1970-е их использовали в австрийской армии для занятий спортом. Ленты на боковой стороне служили креплением для шнурка и придавали структуру мягкой туфле. Со временем они превратились в декоративные нашивки, которые теперь ассоциируются со спортивным стилем в обуви. «Теперь спортивные туфли изготавливают из более качественной кожи по повышенному стандарту», - комментирует Райтер.
Современный владелец компании признает, что теперь все меньше истинных
ценителей конструктивных особенностей и ранта Goodyear. Но в то же время, в Ludwig Reiter приходит больше покупатели, признающих «качественную обувь важным элементом хорошего ансамбля». Поэтому компания в этом году запускает новую линию, проработанную по тем же производственным стандартам, но из более доступных материалов. По словам Райтера, так они познакомят покупателей нового времени с венской обувью.
Более того, не только покупателей, но и самих Райтеров: в компании работает уже пятое поколение этой семьи. «Изначально я не собирался присоединяться к семейному делу – у меня были другие идеи, - говорит Тилль Райтер. – Я изучал
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экономику и хотел заниматься наукой. Но я первым из моих братьев окончил университет, и отец решил, что мне пора управлять компанией. Теперь я на самом деле получаю удовольствие от особенностей семейного бизнеса. Ведь такие компании ориентируются на долгосрочную перспективу и берегут своих сотрудников в сложные времена. Мы точно знаем: непростой период закончится, но порванные связи будет восстановить очень непросто, особенно в сфере производства обуви. Более того, семейное предприятие, как правило, не гонится за максимально возможной прибылью».
К счастью, Ludwig Reiter по-прежнему процветает, и подтверждением его успехов можно назвать 15 собственных магазинов в Австрии, Германии, Швейцарии и Великобритании. Кроме того, продукция компании продается во всем мире. Все это позволило компании выйти на новый уровень, что нечасто удается ее коллегам и конкурентам. А ведь это говорит не только о ее собственном развитии: Ludwig Reiter делает значительный вклад и в модную репутацию Вены. z§
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维也纳当地各大设计师品牌及高级
定制香水吸引了广泛的国际关注,
这座城市与香水的古老关联正在复
苏。Verity Hogan报道
“这款香水中的有些原料比黄金还要
贵,”时尚品牌Wendy & Jim的调香师Hermann Fankhauser指出。他说的这款香水Drop No 01就是让维也纳香气醉人的美妙场景成为关注焦点
的几款最新香水之一。这座城市历来
与香水有着密不可分的关联,哈布斯
堡时代尤其因制造上等香水而闻名于
世。如今,从基于原始配方改造的古老
剂型到对老款香水的现代诠释以及全
新研制的混合香水,维也纳带来的气
味之选一应俱全。
Wendy & Jim是维也纳现代香水制造商的最佳典范。Wendy & Jim的男士及女士系列服饰曾在奥地利时装
业掀起层层波浪,而该品牌首次推出
26: City Of Fragrance
香水之城
美文翻译 的中性香水也同样与众不同。“这款
香水的前调是清新花香,它会引你感
受这款香水更深层的味道,让你被一
种更淳厚、更深沉、更性感的后调所包
围,”Fankhauser解释道。“这一描述同样适用于我们的时装。”
Drop No 01之所以能够脱颖而出,还在于它是市面上仅有的几款主
要用天然和有机原料制成的香水之
一,亦在于它还提供了市面上最不同
寻常的香水瓶。设计师与奥地利传
统瓷器制造商奥格腾(Augarten)合作,以狐狸的头盖骨为模型,创
造出了一支独特的香水瓶。“当我们
考虑香水瓶的时候,我们知道它应
该是一个用来装名贵香水的奢华瓶
子,”Fankhauser说。“狐狸是一种美丽而狡黠的动物,而奥格腾则是这一
项目的绝佳合作伙伴——我们的合作
非常成功,现在已有四个不同款型。”
与之相反,WienerBlut是让古典香味和现代气息之间的界线变得模糊
的几家香水品牌之一。该品牌最擅长
改造帝国时代的古老香水,使其更适
合现代的用户,在必要时也不惧于打
破传统。“我们基本上不顾什么潮流,
只创造我们喜欢的东西,往往加入大
胆创新的特色,”品牌创始人Alexan-der Lauber解释道。“有时加上新特色的经典产品要比现代的产品还要现
代得多。”
该公司的香水系列源自于地道的
Taschentuch香水,它们都是19世纪维也纳最受欢迎的香水配方。每一款
香水都选用最奢侈名贵的原材料打造
而成,也是广泛研究的成果。Lauber惊喜地发现,许多古老的香水都极具
创新色彩。“让我感到非常有趣的是,
即使在有限[时间的]可能性内,许多香
水的调制都已经是在讲述故事、发掘
梦与幻想,”他说道。
就像如今某些香水敏锐地捕捉
着大众的想象一样,帝国时期的调香
师们也深受当时潮流的影响。“在美
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好年代(Belle Époque,指一战爆发前的安定时期,亦即1871年至1914年——译者注),海水浴大行其道,当
时就出现了几十种以海洋为主题的香
水,虽然那个时候都还没有真正的海
洋香调,”Lauber指出。“我们的新款香水之一Sale Marino其实就是向那个时代致敬,它的设计灵感也正是来
源于帝国时期的奥地利里维埃拉,也
就是今天的意大利和克罗地亚的一部
分。这一地区被称为桂冠海岸,这也就
是为什么我们将月桂香作为这款香水
的前调。”
WienerBlut的包装与该香水的调制一样注重细节。该品牌选用高雅
别致的优质手工玻璃瓶,以巴克利特
(Bakelite)瓶盖封顶;标签均由手工粘贴。“这些体态优雅、工艺精湛
的香水瓶反映了我们在调制每瓶香
水的过程中投入的思考、时间和精
力,”Lauber解释道。“当然,由于并不是用机器和机器人来完成所有工序,
难免有一些细微的参差之处,但这反
倒让作品更有魅力了——每一件都是
独一无二的。”
如果您在物色一款真正独一无二
的香水,Yogesh Kumar就是维也纳最有才华的调香师之一,过去23年来他一直专注于打造定制香氛。Kumar用顾客自身的天然化学气质作为其定
制香水的基调,然后提供四种不同的
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样本,经过一段时间的试用,再来选
择最终的香水。最后的结果就是为顾
客度身打造的独特香味——在其他任
何人身上都闻不到同样的味道。
Yogesh Kumar、WienerBlut和Wendy & Jim只是为维也纳古老的香水制造业注入新鲜血液的众多香水制
造商之一。其他的还包括首次涉猎这
一领域的Lena Hoschek等时尚设计师,而JB Filz——该品牌至今仍坚持调制数款早在1892年就已诞生的香水——这样的传统品牌也继续保持着
强大的影响力。这座城市一如往日一
样香薰醉人,也将继续让人们在这芬
芳之中沉醉下去。
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这是一个多种文化交汇的地方。如今,
奥地利——就像英格兰和意大利一
样——是少数几个仍然存在手工制鞋
业的国家之一。”
正如手工制造(bench-made)这
个术语告诉我们的,Ludwig Reiter
的鞋子的的确确就是由工匠在工作台
上制造出来的。每只鞋子的生产都需
要经过至少200道工序,其中包括古
德伊尔贴边(Goodyear welting),也
就是用一根皮带将鞋面和鞋底缝合到
一起来形成一个防水层,同时也使鞋
底可以不断被更换。自从130年前来自
波希米亚的鞋匠大师Ludwig Reiter
一世创业以来,该公司就一直秉承着
祖传的方式制造每一双鞋履。
这样制造出来的产品自然展现出
经典的风格,也正因如此,Ludwig
Reiter家的鞋履常常在古装戏剧和电
影中亮相,最近例子的就是2014年
由Adrien Brody领衔主演的胡迪尼
(Houdini)迷你剧。但是经典,就如
Till Reiter所言,“并不是永远一成不
32: A Family Afair
家族产业
老牌鞋店Ludwig Reiter发扬着维也
纳的手工艺传统,也吸引着下一代人
的兴趣与关注。Josh Sims报道
Ludwig Reiter是维也纳制鞋业光荣
传统的最后一座堡垒——也正因如
此,它才显得越发特殊。“我们是维也
纳目前仅有的手工鞋匠,”这一家族企
业的第四代领导人Till Reiter说。“
这很令人痛心,我们的生意也因而变
得麻烦起来。以前我们有更多的供应
商、机器制造商、工人和有专门技艺的
人。做鞋子要涉及到很多事情,要找
人来干这些复杂的手工活计可并不是
件简单的事儿。”
确实,诚如Ti l l所说,在他祖父
的年代——20世纪20年代和30年
代——维也纳曾依靠这些传统手工技
艺成为欧洲的时尚中心。“它在时尚
界有着实实在在的国际影响力,而且
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也是介绍给将来的新一代Reiters经
营者:家族的第五代成员已经投入到
公司的工作中来了。“其实我还有除了
加盟家族企业之外的想法,”Till Re-
iter说。“我学过经济学,我想从事科
研,但我是我们几兄弟中最先完成学
业的,所以我父亲选择了我来接管公
司。但我其实很喜欢这份工作,尤其是
因为这是我们家族的生意。家族企业
很好——他们有更长远的前景。他们
会在困难时期留住老员工,因为他们
知道此后很难再找回这些员工手上的
技艺,尤其是在制鞋业里。家族企业
甚至都不一定会那么热衷于谋取最大
利润。”
谢天谢地,Ludwig Reiter在那一
点上做得很好。该公司在奥地利、德
国、瑞士和英国拥有15间独立门店,
而其产品则被销往世界各地,也正因
如此,那么多其他维也纳鞋店都倒下
了,Ludwig Reiter却坚持了下来。这
座城市的时尚美名也因而得以延续。
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变的东西,而是与时俱进的。过去人们
要走更多的路,所以现在的鞋子不必
做得像以前那么坚固了。或者说,也没
以前那么难以合脚了——你很难跟一
个步行距离仅限于自己的车和办公室
之间的人解释,一旦穿合脚了,手工制
造的鞋子真的无比地舒服。”
并不是说Ludwig Reiter的鞋子
就没有与众不同的特色:在Till Reiter
看来,相比那些英国人做的鞋子,他们
家的鞋子通常鞋身更窄,也不那么对
称,这反映出了传统模型和细节处理
上的差异。该公司最著名的款式——
也是尤其被维也纳鉴定行家所熟知
的——包括带有德比风格饰带的布达
佩斯布洛克鞋,以及根据一个世纪之
前阿尔卑山林工穿的冬靴设计的、带
有毛毡鞋面的实用Maronibrater靴。
更出人意料的是——“为了吸引
那些实在懒得磨合鞋子的人,”Reiter
开玩笑地说——该公司现在也做老
式的运动鞋,在奥地利时尚设计师
Helmut Lang的帮助下,这些鞋款重
获广泛赞誉。早在20世纪70年代,它
们仅仅是为奥地利军方设计的训练
用鞋,“而如今它们都是参照更高的标
准,采用好得多的皮革制造的,”Til l
解释道。鞋身上的条纹曾经是有特定
功能的——为鞋带提供支撑,并为这
原本无衬里的鞋子提供适量的结构。
那些布条变成了现在的条纹,成了许
多运动鞋设计中广为人们熟悉的经典
装饰。
Till承认,因为古德伊尔贴边构造
的优点而购买这些鞋款的人可能越来
越少了;然而与此相反的是,该公司正
在把更多的鞋子卖给那些认可“一双
好鞋是得体装扮的重要元素”这一观
点的人们。为此,本年度Ludwig Re-
iter发布了一条新的产品线,用同样的
生产标准和更平价的材料打造经典鞋
款。用Till的话说,这是向新一代人介
绍维也纳鞋履的一种方式。
不仅是介绍给新一代客户,或许PH
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غلوبل بلو Global Blue وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة.
تسّوق .1أينم تسّوقت، أطلب الحصول عل طلب
Global استداد الضيبة الخاّص بغلوبل بلوBlue وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت.
أطلب .2ف طريق العودة إل وطنك، أقصد مكتب
الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب
الستداد الخاّصة بنا.
للتّصال:[email protected]
111 111 232 +421أنفق حّداً أدن قدره 75.01€ واّدخر حتّى
%15 من ثن مشتياتك. يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة
عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري. ف بعض الطارات، يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل
طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي.
When you shop the world
،shop tax free :83
عندما تتسّوق حول العال، تسّوق من دون دفع الضيبة
83: When you shop the world,
shop tax free
畅购全球,尊享退税
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多
家商店消费时,环 球蓝联(Globa l
Blue)购物退税服务(Tax Free
Shopping)为您节约购物开销。
每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球
蓝联(Global Blue)获得购物退税,
您怎能错过?您要做的只是寻找蓝星
标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联
(Global Blue)服务,然后遵循我们
简单的退税过程:
1. 消费购物
无论您在哪里消费,请索要环球蓝联
退税表格(Global Blue Tax Free
Form),并记得保存小票。
2. 申请退税
当您准备回家时,您需要先去出发城
市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格
上盖章,然后再到环球蓝联的退税点
领取您的退税款。
联系方式:
+421 232 111 111
最低消费€75.01即可节约高达购买价
格15%的税。请注意:最终退款将包
含增值税总额,但是要扣除管理手续
费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单
位收取现金退税手续费。
95
العريضة اليوم تشّكل لسة تجميليّة عل Reiter تصاميم أحذية رياضيّة كثية. يعتف
بانخفاض عدد الشخاص الذين يشتون أحذية ببطانة Goodyear لبنيتها الجيّدة، لكن
بالقابل تبيع أحذية أكث لشخاص يدركون "أّن الحذاء الجيّد عنص أساس من اللّباس الجيّد." ولهذا السبب، يُطلق Ludwig Reiter هذا العام خطّاً جديداً من الحذية بعايي النتاج
نفسها لكن باستخدام مواد بأسعار أفضل. يقول Reiter إنّها طريقة لتقديم أحذية فيينا إل
جيل جديد.ورّبا إل جيل Reiter جديد يوماً ما إذ يعمل
Till جيٌل خامس لدى الشكة اليوم. يقولReiter: "ف الواقع كان لدّي مخطّط آخر غي
النضمم إل شكة العائلة. تدّربت ف مجال القتصاد وأردت أن أدخل عال العلوم، لكّنني
كنت أّول من أنهى دراسته بي إخوت فاختارن أب لتوّل زمام المور. أستمتع حّقاً بعمل
وبخاّصة لنّه مشوع عائل. الشاريع العائليّة جيّدة وأفقها واسعة. تحتفظ بطاقم عملها ف
الوقات الصعبة لنّها تدرك أنّه سيكون من الصعب إيجاد مهاراتهم مجّدداً ف ما بعد
وبخاّصة ف مجال صناعة الحذية. حتّى أنّها ل تطمع بالضورة بزيادة الرباح."
لحسن الحظ، يفلح Ludwig Reiter ف هذا الجال. لدى العلمة 15 متجراً خاّصاً ف النمسا
وألانيا وسويسا وبريطانيا العظمى بالضافة إل توافرها ف متاجر حول العال، ما سمح لها
بالصمود حيث فشل الكثي من نظرائها من فيينا. ما زالت الدينة تحافظ عل شهرتها
بالسلوب الميّز.ludwig-reiter.com
benchmade بالنكليزيّة أي مصنوعة عل
القعد. تتطلّب صناعة كّل حذاء 200 عمليّة Goodyear منفصلة عل القّل، با فيها بُطانة
التي تربط الجزء العل من الحذاء بالنعل من خلل شيطة جلديّة، ما يشّكل عازلً للمء
ويجعل النعل قابلً للتغيي. تُصنع الحذية بهذه الطريقة منذ أيّام Ludwig Reiter الّول
وهو صانع أحذية متمرّس من بوهيميا، أّسس الشكة منذ 130 سنة.
غالباً ما يرتبط إسم هكذا مصّنعون بالسلوب Ludwig Reiter الكلسيك فنى أحذيةف مسارح وأفلم حقبات معيّنة، كان آخرها
مسلسل Houdini القصي سنة 2014 حيث Till لكن يشي .Adrien Brody مثّل
Reiter أّن الكلسيك "ل يبقى كم هو للبد، بل يتطّور مع الستخدام. كان الناس يشون
أكث بكثي، لذا من غي الضوري اليوم أن تكون الحذية صلبة للغاية أو من الصعب توسيعها؛
من غي السهل أن تشح لشخص يش من ارته إل مكتبه ل غي، أنّه عندما يتّسع الحذاء سيّ
الصنوع يدويّاً، يصبح مريحاً أكث بكثي." Ludwig Reiter هذا ل يعني أّن أحذيةغي مميّزة: يشح Till Reiter أنّها أقّل
عرضاً وأكث لتناظراً من الحذية النكليزيّة، كم تعكس أساليب عريقة مختلفة من
النقوش والتفاصيل. من أشهر أساليب الشكة وأفضلها لدى محبّي الحذية ف فيينا، حذاء
Budapester الزّود بشائط بأسلوب Derby وجزمة Maronibrater بجزئها
العلوي من اللّباد التقليدي القتبسة من الجزمة الشتويّة التي كان يرتديها عّمل غابة اللب
منذ قرن.يزح Reiter قائلً إنّه وعل عكس ما هو
متوقّع تصنع الشكة أيضاً أحذية رياضيّة عل الطريقة القدية "تلقى استحسان أولئك الذين
ل يريدون أن تتّسع أحذيتهم" وقد نجحت هذه الحذية بفضل تعاون الشكة مع الصّمم
النمساوي Helmut Lang. ُصّمم هذا الحذاء للمرّة الول ف السبعينات كحذاء رياض
للجيش النمساوي "لكّنه يُصنع اليوم بعايي أعل ومن جلود أفضل بكثي". كان للخطوط
العريضة عل الجانبي وظيفة وهي احتواء الشائط وتوفي الهيكل الطلوب لا يُعرف Pبالحذاء غي البطّن. وباتت هذه الخطوط
HO
TO
: LU
DW
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ER
globalblue.com
96
الجمهور العاص بالرغم من عدم ترّددها ف التخّل عن التقاليد عندما تدعو الحاجة. يشح مؤّسس الشكة Alexander Lauber قائلً:
"يقوم عملنا عل تجاهل الرائج وابتكار ما نحّب بنفحة جريئة ومبتكرة بالعادة. أحياناً، قد يكون
العطر التقليدي مع لسة جديدة أكث عصيّة من العطر العصي." تقوم سلسلة العطور Taschentuch- لدى الشكة عل وصفة
Parfums الصليّة وهي من أشهر وصفات
العطور ف فيينا من القرن التاسع عش. يُحّض كل شذا من أفخر الواد الّوليّة التوافرة بناًء
عل بحث معّمق. وقد تفاجأ Lauber عندما وجد أّن الكثي من العطور التاريخيّة مبتكرة إل حّد كبي. يقول ف هذا الطار: "ما أجده
مثياً للهتمم هو أنّه بالرغم من المكانيّات الحدودة )من حيث الوقت( اشتمل جزء كبي
من صناعة العطور عل رواية القصص والغوص ف الحلم والخيال."
كم تأس بعض الروائح الخيّلة الشعبيّة اليوم، تأثّر صانعو العطور الرفيعو الستوى بنزعات
معاصة. يذكر Lauber: "ف خلل الزمن الجميل عندما شاعت السباحة ف البحر، ظهرت
عّدة عطور من وحي الحيط بالرغم من عدم وجود خلطات فعليّة قائة عل الروائح البحريّة
Sale آنذاك. يعود أحد عطورنا الجديدةMarino إل تلك الحقبة وهو مستوحى من
الريفييا النمساويّة التي تشّكل اليوم جزءاً من إيطاليا وكرواتيا. تُعرف هذه النطقة بساحل الغار ولذلك يُستخدم الغار كرائحة أساسيّة."تحظى زجاجات WienerBlut بالهتمم نفسه كالعطور بحّد ذاتها. تستخدم الشكة
زجاجات أنيقة من الزجاج العال الجودة الصنوع يدويّاً ومزّودة بغطاء Bakelite؛
Lauber توضع شارة العلمة يدويّاً. يشحقائلً: "تعكس الناقة والهارة الواضحتان ف زجاجاتنا التفكي والوقت والجهود البذولة لبتكار كّل عطر. بالطبع، ل يخلو المر من
بعض الشوائب البسيطة ف غياب اللت ورجال اللة، لكن هذا ما يزيد القطعة سحراً فتصبح
كّل واحدة فريدة من نوعها."إن كنت تبحث عن عطر فريد حّقاً من نوعه، ننصحك بـ Yogesh Kumar وهو من أكث
عطّاري فيينا مهارة ويركّب روائح بحسب الطلب منذ 23 سنة. يعتمد Kumar عل
كيمياء زبائنه الطبيعيّة ليبتكر الخليط ويقّدم أربع عيّنات مختلفة لختبارها مع مرور الوقت
قبل اختيار العطر النهائ. فتأت النتيجة عطراً يلئم الشخص تاماً وخاّصاً به.
WienerBlutو Yogesh Kumar وما وWendy & Jim إل بعض العطّارين الذين يبعثون حياة جديدة ف عال العطور التاريخي
ف فيينا. من السمء الخرى ف هذا الجال مصّممي أزياء مثل Lena Hoschek التي تغزو هذا الجال للمرّة الول، ف حي تحافظ
شكات عريقة مثل JB Filz التي تعود عطورها إل سنة 1892 عل وجودها القوي. يتمتّع
مجال العطور ف الدينة اليوم بالقّوة التي لطالا تحلّت بها وتبدو عازمة عل الحافظة عل
هذا النحو.،wendyjim.com ،wienerblut.at
،lenahoschek.com ،dasparfum.com
parfumerie-flz.at
A Family Afair :32
مشوع عائل
Ludwig يحافظ صانع الحذية العريقةReiter عل تقاليد حرف فييّنا ويتطّور ف
الوقت عينه ليجذب الجيل الجديد، تقرير Josh Sims
تُعتب شكة Ludwig Reiter العقل الخي لرث صناعة الحذية ف فييّنا وهو مدعاة للفخر
ز. يقول Till Reiter مدير الشكة ورمز للتميّالعائليّة من الجيل الرابع: "إنّنا صانعو الحذية
الشغولة يدويّاً الوحيدون التبّقون ف فيينا. هذا مؤسف ويعّقد العمل. كان هناك مورّدون
ومبتكرو آلت ويد عاملة ودراية أكث من اليوم. من غي السهل إيجاد أشخاص يقومون بالعمل
اليدوي العّقد لصناعة أحذيتنا." ف الواقع، قال Reiter إنّه ف عهد جّده ف العشينات
والثلثينات، شّكلت فييّنا مرتعاً أوروبيّاً للزياء معّززة بفضل مهارات حرفيّة تقليديّة. "تتّعت
بتأثي عالي حقيقي ف مجال الوضة وكانت موقعاً متعّدد الثقافات. واليوم، تبقى النمسا
عل غرار إنجلتا وإيطاليا، إحدى الدول القليلة التي ل تزال تصنع الحذية يدويّاً." يصنع
الحرفيّون أحذية Ludwig Reiter بينم يجلسون عل مقاعد ولهذا السبب تُسّمى
97
City Of Fragrance :26
مدينة العطر
ترجمة باللغة العربيّة
لطالا جمعت علقة تاريخيّة بي فيينا والعطور وتنهض هذه العلقة اليوم من خلل الهتمم
العالي الذي تلقاه علمات تجاريّة وتحضي Verity عطّارين لعطور بحسب الطلب، تقرير
Hogan
يقول Hermann Fankhauser من علمة الزياء Wendy & Jim: "بعض مكّونات
Drop No العطر أغل من الذهب." عطر01 هو أحد العطور الجديدة التي تلقى رواجاً
ف فيينا. لطالا ارتبط إسم الدينة بالعطور واشتهرت حقبة Habsburg بالتحديد بإنتاج عطور راقية. واليوم تضّم الدينة أنواعاً مختلفة
من العطور، من خلطات تاريخيّة تعتمد عل وصفات تقليديّة إل تعديلت حديثة عل عطور
قدية وخلطات جديدة مبتكرة تاماً.من أبرز المثلة عن عطّاري فييّنا الحديثي
علمة Wendy & Jim. أحدثت مجموعاتها للملبس الخاّصة بالرجال والنساء ثورًة ف مجال
الزياء النمساوي وكذلك المر بالنسبة إل :Fankhauser عطرها الجديد للجنسي. يقول
"يحوي شذا زهور يحملك إل روائح مبطّنة ف العطر حيث تحيط بك روائح أكث ترابيّة وقّوة وإثارة. يكن تطبيق هذا التوصيف أيضاً عل
أزيائنا."ز عطر Drop No 01 عن غيه كونه أحد يتميّالعطور النادرة ف السوق الصنوعة من مكّونات
طبيعيّة وعضويّة بشكٍل خاص، بالضافة إل تعبئته ف أكث الزجاجات غرابة ف السوق.
تعاون الصّممون مع علمة الخزف النمساويّة التاريخيّة Augarten لبتكار زجاجة فريدة
من نوعها بشكل جمجمة ثعلب. يقول Fankhauser ف هذا الصدد: "عندما فّكرنا
بالزجاجة، تصّورنا أنّه يجب أن تكون زجاجة فاخرة لعطر باهظ الثمن. الثعلب حيوان جميل وذك وشّكلت Augarten الشيك الثال لهذا الشوع. فكانت النتيجة ناجحة بامتياز ونوفّر
حاليّاً أربعة تصاميم مختلفة." WienerBlut بالقابل، يلغي دار العطور
الخطوط الفاصلة بي العطور التاريخيّة والعاصة. حّققت العلمة نجاحاً باهراً ف تكييف عطور الحقبة المباطوريّة لتلئم
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