Ada Ciganlija

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ADA CIGANLIJMONOGRAPHY

2012, BELGRADE


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Recenzenti.

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300.

ISBN.

978-86-913241-1-7.

.Published by

.Ada Ciganlija Public Enterprise

.Chief editor

.Zoran Gaji

.Reviewed by

.Pedja Risc, Predrag Markovi,

.Slobodan-Boban Vukadinovi

.Design & Cover & Translaon

.Zorica Marinkovi

.Serbian language editor

.Vesna uki

.DTP & proofreading.Sinia Kadi

.Photography

.Zorica Marinkovi, Pea Ris, Zoran Jovanovi

.City Archives, Public Enterprise Ada Ciganlija archives &

.Belgrade Land Development Public Agency archives

.Drawings

.Pea Ris, Momo Kapor

.Printed by

.Vizars Belgrade

.Circulaon

.300

.ISBN

.978-86-913241-1-7


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Kosta Nikoli Sran Cvetkovi Zorica Marinkovi

Isola degli Zingari

Ada Ciganlija from the Isola degli Zingari to the Belgrades Sea


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. .Contents

009 THE EARLY HISTORY

010 The CELTS

010 The ITALIANS

011 The TURKS and AUSTRIANS

012 The RUSSIANS

013 The LANDLORD MLADEN

014 BEGLUK vs CINGALIJA

015 URBAN ISLAND

017 NUIS WATER LILY OR THE JOURNALISTS GETAWAY

019 KARAORES VISIT TO ADA

020 ON THE PATH OF WAR

(19201958) 023 THE EARLY DEVELOPMENT OF TOURISM (19201958)

025 PART OF THE BIG CITY

026 A BEACH FOR THE CITIZENS OF BELGRADE

028 THE BEGINNING OF SPORTS

030 THE URBAN JUNGLE

032 THE ALL-SERBIAN ISLAND

(19281954) THE PRISON ON ADA CIGANLIJA (19281954) 033 THE SERBIAN ALKATRAZ

035 THE RED TERROR

? 037 THE FAIT OF THE GENERAL?


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039 THE LAST PRISONER LEAVES THE DEN

(19582000) 041 EXPANSION OF TOURISM (1958-2000)

TREE HOUSES 046 GATAWAY FROM THE SOCIALIST REALITY

UNCONTROLLED GATHERINGS 048 OF THE PETTY BOURGEOIS IN THE DECLINE

051 ASSOCIATION OF THE SAVA AND DANUBE LOVERS

, 053 YOUTH WORK ACTIONS GANGS

058 THE LAKE PROJECT

80.000 ! 065 THE BEACH FOR 80,000 PEOPLE

, , ! 069 ADIOS, ADA!, ADIO! YOULL SOON BE GONE! SOON!

070 ADA BECOMES A FANCY CITY ON THE WATERFRONT 072 ADA OLD-TIMERS OLD THE ADADIJAS

073 MEMORY LANE

078 ADA MEICA AND THE WEEKEND-MANIA OF THE SEVENTIES

079 THE FIRST INHABITANTS OF THE JUNGLE

080 ROBINSON CRUSOE COLONIES

082 BATTLE FOR ADA MEICA

(19802000) 083 POPULARISTAION OF ADA CIGANLIJA (1980-2000) 083 PARTISAN COLLONY

084 ADA IS IN

086 FLOATING-HOUSES AND TAVERNS

099 MOMAS CORNER


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105 BELGRADES SEA

106 HOW TO REACH ADA

107 WHAT L FR ON ADA

109 NATURAL OASIS

111 BELGRADES SEA

113 RAFTS AND RESTAURANTS

117 SPORTS

124 ENTERTAINMENT

126 ADA TODAY AND TOMORROW

127 LIGHTING WATERFALLS ON ADA

129 A LAST WORD ABOUT THE LANDLORD

131 GALERY


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. Ada Ciganlija . The History

. Ada Ciganli a .The History

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T

his is a story about Ada Ciganlija [pronounced a:datsiganlija], The Water Lily of Belgrade. Ada Ciganlijais a charming peninsula located in the Sava river fourkilometres from the juncon of the Sava and Danube

rivers, and 3.5 kilometres fromcentre of Belgrade.

According to the archaeo-logical finds, Ada Ciganlija wasonce an island, with an importantstrategic locaon from its earlyhistory. Today, some of thosefinds include tools, horse harnessand weapons used in medieval -mes, and are kept in the Naonal

Museum of Serbia and the CityMuseum in Belgrade. They arethe tesmony of its early selers.

Today, Ada stretches over270 hectares most of which is adense forest. Ada Ciganlija is re-ferred to colloquially as Ada.

Celts Italians Turks Austrians Russians


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. Ada Ciganlija . The History . Ada Ciganli a . The History

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, . - . , . -.

17. , . - (Vincenzo MariaCoronelli, 16501718) , , - Isola degli Zingari.

(Giacomo Cantelli da Vignola,16431695), , 1689. . Isola degli Zingari.

THE CELTSSome chroniclers found the name of the island in the com-

pound of Celc words singa and lia. The name depicts con-stant changes in the water levelof the River Sava. During thelow season it was called Singa(Island), while during the highseason it was called Lia (Under-water Land). The word Singaliachanged over me to Ciganlija.

THE ITALIANSOn the map by the Veneancartographer Vincenzo Coronelli(16501718), the name Isola de-gli Zingariappears on one of thetwo islands on the River Sava.Another Italian Giacomo Cantellida Vignola (16431695), car-tographer of the Conte di Man-tova, was commissioned to map

the selement on the hill thatwas embraced by two great ri-vers. Da Vignola also named this

island Isola degli Zingari. This map was printed by the Vacan inRome in 1689.


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THE TURKS AND AUSTRIANSIn the early 18th century, Ada received its

first selers. In 1688 when the Austrian armyaacked Belgrade, it was sll an importantTurkish stronghold. Prince Eugene of Savoy,who was injured during the bale, staonedpart of his troops on the Island.

Three decades aer the aack on Bel-grade, Prince Eugene returned for the deci-sive encounter against the Oomans in theAustro-Turkish War. He crossed the River

Sava with his troops in1717 and surroundedthe city. In response, theTurks decided to evictthe Serbs from the City. With the approval ofthe Princes they inially seled on the Islandbefore they were moved to Petrovaradin nearNovi Sad. During this period, the Austrian armyused Ada to store its arms arsenal. Belgrade re-mained under Austrian rule unl 1739.

There is one more historical documentfrom the 18th century about the Island. During

the siege of Belgrade in 1788, Austrians estab-lished their main military camp on Ada. ManySerbs from Vojvodina; known as preani (mea-

ning from across the river), served in special units called fraj -kors (free corps or volunteers). Karaore Petrovi (Black ore)was in one of these units and later became the leader of the FirstSerbian Uprising against the Turks.


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. Ada Ciganlija . The History . Ada Ciganli a .The History

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The RUSSIANSDuring the First Serbian Uprising at the beginning of the 19 th

century, Russian diplomat Konstann Rodofinikin (17601838)staged a massive public gathering on 18th July, 1809 to celebratethe Serbian rebels. Historic records menon: In the latest news weannounce that General Rodofinikin has staged a grand fair and ce-lebraon in honour on Ada Ciganlija to which all important personsand honourable cizens have been in aendance. The celebraonwent long into the night. The Serbians only wonder why he chosea deserted place covered in marsh and with pests infested bushesfor such an occasion.

The wild beauty of lush bushes and green pastures, a matchmade in Heaven, captured the heart of the Russian diplomat. It

is believed that the gathering was lovely and cheerful, but Rodo-finikin was severally cricized for choosing this grungy and unin-habited island for such an important occasion. The details of theevent were depicted in two poems by the Sarajevo poet SimaMilunovi, the Students Celebraons and The Shores of Ada.According to Andra Gavrilovi, the poems were not published whenhe wrote about it in the Crte (Sketches) about the Serbian libera-on (1904). According to Milunovi, the poems oozed contrasngimages including ones about rebels dedicated to the naonal causeand others about wild and disorderly celebraons of Belgraderscheered by Rodofinikin, the Russian diplomat.

Several pamphlets about Rodofinikin have been wrien inclu-ding one with the tle: Rodofinikins public life in Belgrade Theclandesne poison for the Serbs, ...., the new plan an old enemy.Because of these words, one man was accused and executed whileKaraore issued a manifesto ordering the cizens of Belgrade toshow greater respect for the Russian diplomat and obey him un-quesoningly.2


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THE LANDLORDMLADEN

In 1809, Ada Ciganlija becamethe property of Mladen Milovanovi(17601823), the Duke from theFirst Serbian Uprising. At the me,Milovanovi was a close ally ofKaraore, and became the firstPresident of the Administering Coun-cil (18071810 and 18131814) andthe first Serbian Minister of Defence.He was also the first commander of

the liberated Belgrade, equivalent tothe present tle of the city mayor.Ostentaous, vain, dressed in fineclothes and decorated in gold andsilver, Milovanovi used his highprofile connecons for his personalgain. He was also a bold policianand once said to the Russian diplo-

mat: We receive help from everyone but will fight against any in-tervenon to the last man.3

The special manifesto issued by Karaore stated: I, the Ser-bian Leader, announce that I bestow Ada Ciganlija on the River Savato Mladen Milovanovi, President of the Administering Council, forhis great service to our Country. From this day forward he is thelandowner of the River Island. No-one has the right to interfere. Heand his descendants are the sole proprietor. He may keep it or sellit as he pleases.4


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Aer the failure of the First Serbian Uprising in 1813, Belgradeagain fell into the hands of the Turks, who immediately annulled alllegal acts. This acon sealed the fate of the owner of Ada. Mladen

escaped to Russia where he lived for some me on the Russianpension.

He was later implicated with the Greeks and, most likely as aFreemason, was involved in the Ypsilans Uprising, the Greek Warof Independence. Aer the failure of the Ypsilans Uprising, Mlad-en first escaped to Hungary before finally returned to Serbia in No-vember 1821. He arrived in rags but in hope offinding a treasurehe had hidden in 1813 on the Ada Ciganlija Island. He frequentlyvisited the island saying that there were sacks of gold. With thehelp of Prince Milo Obrenovi, he was sent to the Mount Zlabor

but never returned from there. His widow was noted to have livedon a substanal regular pension.5

BEGLUK VS CIGANLIJAIn 1821, Prince Milo Obrenovi declared the Island begluk,

meaning state property. There are several documents from this pe-riod about the Island.

One document refers to Toma Vui-Perii (1787/17881859),a Serbian hero from both Uprisings. Vui-Perii was inially

a gate keeper of the Milos regime who later became his bi er ene-my, a defender of the constuon, and a vicm of the poisoning by

Milos accomplices. On 20th April 1838, Vui-Perii informed thePrince that Luka Garaanin had mowed-down one hundred wag-on-loads of the grass under suspicious circumstances with thehelp of some shady characters. He also asked him for permissionwrite to the captain Simeonovi to send our mowers to mow-down


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what grass remained. On May 21st, a reply from Bukovikwas received giving Vui-Perii permission to write tothe captain and ask for the mowers to be sent to Ada.6

Another leer was wrien by Avram Petronievi(1791-1852), a Statesman, President of the Governmentand Foreign Affairs Minister of the Principality of Serbia.This leer was dated June 8th 1938 and addressed to thePrinces office to inform him of the existence of a docu-ment that menons the name-change of the islands inthe rivers Sava and Danube and suggests the intent toseize them from Serbia. Petronievi insisted that theTurkish names of the islands are kept even if one had tobe called Ciganlija.7

Yet another document dated March 30 th, 1854, is arental contract for one-year and eight months and thesum of 481 talirs (golden nuggets) made between thecity of Belgrade and local butchers, brothers Same andMamut Ejupovi. The brothers were obliged to make athree-month advanced payment: The reners are freeto plough the land, to use it for grazing and mowing,they are free to graze cale on the whole island, but are

not permied to cut down the trees and use the birch for sale un-less for personal use in dire need.8

URBAN ISLANDIn 1867 during the rule of the Prince Mihailo Obrenovi, the

first regulaon plan for Belgrade was prepared. According to theplan, the City was to be girded with parks covering 50,000 squaremetres along the banks of the rivers Sava and Danube. One of the

Ko Prince Mihailo Obrenovi


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boldest ideas of its designer,the architect, teacher andmusician Emilian Josimovi,

was to dig a tunnel underthe Kalemegdan Fortress.This tunnel would providea convenient short link be-tween the Sava boardwalkand the Danube pier. Underthe plan, Ada Ciganlija wasto become one of the larg-est recreaonal areas in theCity. Emilian Josimovis vi-sion was to turn Ada Cigan-lija into a factory of cleanair, which would greatlycontribute to clear and aes-thec views of the City. Theemphasis was on the popular pasmes ofal fresco walking, cleanair and pure enjoyment and needed for recuperaon of the majori-ty of its cizens.

The plan was a precursor to the Citys future landscapes thatdescend to the water front and transform the island into a rec-reaon and sports centre. Modificaon of the rivers banks came

only 20 years later. The swamp in the lower part of the island wascleared and the first aempt to turn it into the park was made.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Ada Ciganlija remaineda picnic ground only for a few groups of people. Among themwere fishermen and the homeless, lovers and bohemians, arstsin search for inspiraon, fugives and the mob from the townsoutskirts.


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NUIS WATER LILYOne of the most famous Ser-

bian comedy-writers, Branislav Nui(1864-1938) gave the island the nameWatery Lily because of its unspoiledbeauty. It was here that the idea wasborn to start a sarical magazine

bearing the same name. For decades onwards, the magic a raconof Ada enced arsts and adventurers who remained faithful andregular visitors either as creators or zealots.

The Journalist Ball was organized on the Ada Ciganlija duringthe period between May 20th and June 1st, 1908. The ball was alsoknown as Troiki Fairand was inialized by Belgrades Associaonof Journalists with Branislav Nuic as its President.

The aim of the fair was to collect financial support for reredand poor journalists who had no right to a pension as the state pro-vided no financial support for them. Walking paths, tents, and tea-houses were built. Some public facilies were established, inclu-ding the Board of the Journalist Fair, a Post Office providing publicphones and telegraph service, and the Fairs Police Commissariat.Tents provided shelter for many shops selling newspapers, tobacco,toys, sweets and candies. Milk pavilions offered all kinds of dairyproduce. The place oozed of music, dance and songs. There were

also knightly tournaments and various sports compeons.Visitors to the Fair were transported from the Gospodarska

mehana (Lords Pub) to the le bank of the Island by small boatsand the ships Arad and Morava. Military music could be heardfrom the boats as they sailed across the water. The brave and thepoor arrived at the ball, with some swimming across the river Sava.Rakia, wine, beer, French champagne or popular Belgrade kabeza


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were served. They danced and sung into the night. Visitors amusedthemselves riding wooden horses or in chariots of the spinningwheel of the merry-go-round, in front of the magic mirrors or in

the circus. Sports events including swimming, rowing and fishingcompeons were organized. During the fair, the Associaon ofJournalists printed Adas newspaper the Water Flowerdaily. Brani-slav Nui was the editor but he signed it using his pseudonym BenAkiba. The following verses were in the editorial:

Do you know what this is, my old lady-friend?Its the penny-a-liner jamboree.Right around Ada they mix and

mingle to run away from the crics.

Words they freely speak to mock,croak, croak-croak.9

Some say that Nui organisedthe Troiki Fair in protest of the Aus-trian annexaon of Bosnia and Herze-govina that year.


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KARAORES VISIT TO ADAAda Ciganlija also made its film dbut and entered the history

pages of the Serbian film industry. This is where the first full fea-ture film ever made in Serbia and the Balkans was made. The filmwas about the life and work of the immortal Grand Vod Karaore(Black George, the first and supreme Serbian hereditary leader),was directed by ia Ilija Stanojevi (1859-1930) and produced bySvetozar Botori.

The film was the first of its kind ever made in Europe in whichroles were given to professional actors. In the lead roles were thefilm director Stanojevi, who played the part of the Turkish Pashaand assassin of Karaore, the actress anka Stoki, and the ac-tor Milorad Petrovi who played the part of Karaore. The sceneswere filmed during July and August of 1911. The members of theSerbian Film Society were determined to present the life story of theLeader of the First Serbian Uprising, from the me of his birth un-l his death. Someof the sceneswere filmed onlocaons in andaround Belgrade,on the shores ofthe rivers Sava

and Danube, inthe KalemegdanFortress, TopiderHill and the Ban-

jica field, and mostof all on the AdaCiganlija.


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ON THE PATH OF WARDuring the First World War, Ada Ciganlija was a bier bale-

field in the defence of Belgrade with many causalies. When themajor German offensive against Serbia commenced at the be-ginning of October 1915, the Serbian 7th Infantry Division foughtfiercely against them. During the offensive Ada was heavily bom-barded. The Serbian troops suffered heavy losses and were forcedto withdraw before the much powerful enemy.

,

Milan Radojevi, commanding officer


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. Ada Ciganlija . The History . Ada Ciganli a .The History

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, 1867.

FIRST REGULATION PLANBY EMILIAN JOSIMOVI, 1867


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(19201958)

The Early Years(19201958)


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PART OF THE BIG CITY

Soon aer end of the First World War, works on furtherdevelopments of Ada Ciganlija commenced. In May

1921, an internaonal call was made for the submis-sion of ideas for development and expansion of Bel-grade. A plan under the code Urbs magna (Grand City) was re-ceived. The proposal included a large all-purpose stadium to bebuilt on the island, turning the enre island into a sports park. Thisheralded the beginning of sports acvies on the island. Inially,swimming and rowing clubs were built. However, in the late 1920sthe Court for the Protecon of the People erected a prison-house.

Interesngly, some architects at that me included the lebank of the River Sava and the bridge over Ada in their plans fordevelopment of New Belgrade. Such was the vision of the engineer

Kovaljevski that on his plan of 1923 he proposed the building ofa boatshed on the island and a connecon to the mainland. Thisbridge was to have linked this part of the city with New Belgrade.The same plan proposed the building of a stadium on the GreatWar Island.


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A BEACH FOR THE CITIZENS OFBELGRADE

With end of the First World War, more Belgraders began tofrequent Ada. Smaller ships, boats and dinghies could be seen. Reg-ular boat tours were organised on the Sava River. Boats inevitably

stopped for a short break on theisland shores. Many visitors werekeen on swimming, resulng inthe City Council seng a costume-code before the start of the 1930swimming season. The rules madelile difference between male and

female costumes as both coveredmuch of the body. Daily papersalso published instrucons forthe use of the beach: The beachis divided in two parts one partfor the gentlemen and the otherfor the ladies. Man or woman,even though they may be lawfulhusband and wife, must not mix.Immediately aer the embarkingof the vessel and stepping on the

sand, men must go to one sideand women to the other. Entry torestaurants on the beachfront was

denied to the inappropriately dressed. Those who wanted refresh-ment had to change from their swimming costumes back into theirstreet clothes.10


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THE BEGINNING OF SPORTSRowing has a long tradion on the island. The first rowing club

was established in the early 20s of the 20th

century by the Ser-bian emigrants who came from Zrenjanin in Vojvodina which wasthen part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The first rowing club inVojvodina the Danubius established in Novi Sad in 1885 exists tothis day while the first established in Zrenjanin was in 1893. Therewere several clubs in Belgrade in the Kingdom of Serbia and Yu-goslavia. The first one was Grafiarestablished in 1908. Inially itwas a recreaon club for the graphic workers of the nearby factory.During the years rowing became so popular that aer the SecondWorld War Grafiarchanged its acvies from recreaon to exclu-

sively rowing and became the

first rowing club on the island.In 1906 Queen Maria, the wifeof the King Alexander, financedconstrucon of a building inwhich the Red Starrowing club isnow located. In 1936 Queen Ma-ria established the Belgrade row-ing club which was the home ofall the rowing clubs in Belgrade.Here many celebraons and fes-

vies were held.Ada Ciganlija was the hostof the first European rowingchampionship in 1932. Near theRound Bath the Rowing Stadi-um a spectators stand with thecapacity for 2500 people was


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built.11 The World Rowing Federaons recorded the championship asone of the best organised championships of the me and one witha significant number of parcipants for the me. King Alexandersvisit aracted many people from all over the country who came towatch the championship and a pontoon bridge was built over theSava River to provide easy access to the island. The daily newspaperPolika gave regular announcements about the organisaon plansand printed metables of the transport of visitors from various des-naons in Serbia. Train trips were free of charge and the tramlineN 13 operated to the Gospodarska mehana stop and from here visi-tors were transferred by army vehicles and buses to the pontoonbridge. The Kings boat sailed into the lake and to the main stand

for the finals. The pontoon bri-dge was up and the boat Kra-

jina with the King on it sailed incheered by the crowd.

Aer the successful or-ganisaon of the championshipthe island became a popularlocaon for many sport com-peons. These events markthe beginnings for the develop-ment of the organised sportsacvies on Ada. However, kay-aking played the most impor-tant role mostly thanks to thelate president of the Kayak As-sociaon aslav Velji. The tra-dion of successful cooperaonand friendship between therowers and kayakers lives on.


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There is one more interesng thing from the almanac ofthe sport on Ada. In 1938, the water sports fanac AleksandarRadivojevi became a sports legend when he powered his boatwith a motor engine and inspired the establishment of several mo-tor clubs aer the war (the Pobeda, Janko Lisjak, Monter and Ra-denik clubs). In 1958, these clubs merged into the MNK Belgrade.

THE URBAN JUNGLEBetween the two World Wars and during the German occupa-

on, only lonely adventurers and a few disnguished ci-zens from the neighbouring district of Senjak

visited Ada. The Island representedsome kind of an exoc

safari locaon or aunique city jungle.

Full-day visits, mostlyon weekends, were

also organised. Storiesabout the beginnings

of the nudist era go backto this period, although

such visitors were few innumbers, with their visits

unorganised and incognito.Since those days, part of the

Ada Ciganlijas skinny dippingpopulaon sll finds shelter

on the beach under the coverof the dense greenery.


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SWIM SUITESOF THE 30S


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THE ALL-SERBIAN ISLANDDuring the days of the German occupaon, Serbian Ada, as

it was then called, was visited by a variety of arsts. These visitsgave Ada parcular vibrancy especially in the summer of 1942during the middle of the Second World War. At this me, famousactors, ballerinas and opera singers used to swim, sunbathe andrecreate. The occasional stroller could easily bump into the famousactress Olga Spiridonovi in her bathers, the prima ballerina NataaBokovi with her pet Tiger, and opera singer Zdenka Zikova andher husband, the popular footballer Brana Dimitrijevi. Also fre-quently seen were Milo Ris, the famous Naonal Theatre balletdancer, opera singer Aleksandar Kolacio and his wife Vukica Ili -Kolacio and many others.12

With itsdense forestand impass-able marsh-land, Ada wasa convenienthideaway andbase for thetransfer ofillegal Par-sans to theSrem Front.At night me,boatman took refugees from the mainland across to the island,then onward over the River Sava to the Srem. During 1944, Par-sans from the umadija Division were also transferred to Sremin Vojvodina.13

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(19281954)

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THE PRISON ON ADA CIGANLIJA(19281954) THE SERBIAN ALKATRAZ

During the reign of the King Aleksandar Karaorevi, a buil-

ding which was to serve as prison for the purposes of the Court forthe Protecon of the People was built. Some of the most signifi-cant events of the turbulent polical history of Serbia and Yugosla-via were wrien on the walls of the prison unl the second half ofthe 20th century. Surrounded by water and an impassable swamp,

these natural elements made it im-possible to escape. The goal was tobuild a prison house second to nonein the country. This prison was oen

referred to as the Serbian Alcatraz.According to the tesmonials offormer prisoners, inmates were shack-led while in the open unl the late1930s when a wall was erected. In thecourt-yard in front of the main build-ing, a set of stairs led to the execuonplaorm complete with gibbets forprisoners sentenced to death by hang-ing. There were twenty cells inside themain building, each accommodang

5-6 inmates. Other prison facilies and a small guards barrack lo-cated outside the prison walls were connected to the water frontwith narrow footpaths. Most prisoners were under invesgaon forpolical offences while others, convicted on short sentences up tothree years, were later transferred to bigger prisons like KPD Srem-ska Mitrovica or KPD Zabela.


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34

, -, .

, - , , -, , , -. -, kustodia honesta

. a 1945.

. , - . - -,

, - - ,-.

Before the Second World War, most notorious prisoners whospent their me in the Ada prison were either members of theoutlawed Yugoslavia Communists Party or the Ustashe movement.The most famous resident-prisoners were Milovan ilas, Spasenija-Cana Babovi, Moa Pijade, Isidor Baruh, Ramiz Sadiku, and Milo-rad Labudovi-Labud. Polical prisoners enjoyed special statusor kustodia honesta, meaning they were not allowed to mix withother prisoners.

From the beginning of the Second World War unl the endof 1945, the Ada prison was closed. Because of its inaccessibility,the German occupying forces did not include it in their infamousrepression apparatus. However, liberated Belgrade proved short ofprison capacies resulng in the reacvaon of Ada prison.

The prison was soon notorious for its residents; ancom-

munists and others who did not support the new regime. Amongthe inmates were members of youth pro-democrac organisa-ons, sympathisers of the Yugoslav Army (JVO), including Dimitrijeorevi who later become a famous historian and painter, Og-njen Adum, and members of the Naonal Revoluonary StudentYouth (NRSY) who were all sentenced to imprisonment in May1946. Veljko Guberina, a member of the youth group called Kruok(meaning Circle), was also amongst them. During 1949 BorislavPeki, then a student and later a famous internaonal writer, manymembers of the Union of the Yugoslav Democrac Youth (SDOJ),the elderly polician, former minister and leader of the DemocracParty, Kosta Kumanudi, and many other naonal enemies be-came the famous residents of the prison.

Aer the Second World War, Ada ceased to serve as an ex-ecuon ground with the excepon of the controversial case of theGeneral Dragoljub Draa Mihailovi that recently put Ada on thefront pages of the newspapers.



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. Ada Ciganli a .Early Development of Tourism

., , () ( ) , - , 1946. , , , . 1949. , , (), -, . -, .

, -.

12. 1944.

- 17. 1946. . -, , , - ,

THE RED TERRORSome former prisoners gave evidence corroborang the find-

ings of the State Commission for Mass Graves of the Vicms aerSeptember 12th, 1944 and Commission for Establishment of theCircumstances of the Execuon of General Dragoljub-DraaMihailovi. These findings suggest the General was shot deadagainst the north Prison wall on the night of 17th July 1946 alongwith eight other prisoners.

Seven prisoners were shot with guns that used silencers whilecontrary to the official announcement, Dragomir-Dragi Jovanoviwas, spared and several years later killed. According to the re-cords, Slobodan Penezi-Krcun, (Interior Minister of Serbia), JosipHrnevi (Federal Prosecutor), Col. Milo Mini (Army Prosecutor),

Mihajlo orevi (President of the Trial Chamber), Slobodan Kr-s-Ua (Execuve Officer of the Organisaon for the Protecon

of the People (OZNA)) and doctor ex-oficio, plus a few less impor-tant OZNA members and milia were present.


35


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36


. - , , , , -, , , - , -,,-, -.

-, ( , -, . . -), . - - -

.

The likely scenario of the execuon of the group and GeneralDraa Mihailovi was reconstructed using the descripons and in-formaon received from former prisoners (Milisav Markovi, Mihailakievi, Boidar Lazarevi and witness statement given to pro-secuon), prison and pit drawings by Mihail ikievi, and otherdocuments matched with official findings. Notes about the execu-on scenario are also found in the memoirs and unpublished wri-ngs of Slobodan Krs-Ua, OZNA officer.


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37


?

17. 1946. , (-)., -. ( -, ) .. .

- . , . , , - . () .

THE FAIT OF THE GENERAL?During the night of July 17th,

1946, prisoners in a very poor shapefrom the Glavnjaa mainland prisonwere transferred with hands edwith wire to Ada prison. Here theywere shot against the prisons northwall close to a lime-pit dug by theGerman prisoners. Their bodies andremains were later burned, and theirashes were either scaered over the

rivers Sava and Danube or buried as unknown persons in an undis-closed locaon in the Central Cemetery in Belgrade.

Ada Ciganlia was a perfectchoice for execuons because of itslimited access. However there wereno mass execuons aer the war.Ada was also called the police is-land. Its locaon was to remain se-cret and inaccessible, away from thepreying eyes of the public and avoid-ing unwanted popularity or becom-

ing a place of worship. However when a new central prison wasbuilt in Belgrade and the need for prisons diminished with libera-on of the regime, Ada soon became the focus of many projects re-locang the prison and transforming the island into a bathing zone.Therefore, scienfic speculaons about the possible destrucon orremoval of the human remains to a secondary locaon from theinfamous prison of the communist era during the late developmentprojects remains to this day.


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- -: , -, -. 2011. --

, .

- , 80 - . , , . , -, , -

. , .

On the spot where the alleged execuonof General Mihailovi took place, the soil struc-ture has been significantly changed following themassive development works construcng river

embankments, a man-made lake, water collec-tors, and supporng walls, and the planng ofnew vegetaon.

Between June and August 2011, a detailedsite excavaon was undertaken by the StateCommission and the Instute for Forensic Stud-ies. Detailed reports confirm that while there isno secret grave or remains of the executed con-victs, a lingering hope remains surrounding whatsecrets several bullet-shells found deep in theground may hole, and how they might lead to

the truth about the fate of the group.Bone fragments found some 80 cen-

metres below the surface of the ground closeto the prison foundaons were first thoughtto be human remains. Some twenty piecesof bone, in varying condions and size, withsome partly charcoaled while others totallyburned, were handed over to representavesof the Instute for Forensic Medicine for fur-ther analysis. However, the analysed findingsproved to be of non-human origins. Other

items found included a number of pieces ofwire in the shape of number eight, nails, lotsof lime parcles, one pipe, a bole and otherpersonal paraphernalia.

- -

. , - -


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39


50-

. ,

-.

1949. , ( ) . .

, . , 1953.. , . ; , , . , . , , , .

, ,

, . , , , , , . .14

THE LAST PRISONER LEAVES THE DEN

The history of the Ada prison stops during the mid 1950s.When the last prisoners were relocated, the prison cells were con-verted into accommodaon for poor police officers who had previ-ously lived in the main building.

During 1949, a communal bath was built for these public ser-vants, while water and electricity was provided. Also, part of theisland was rehabilited. Surrounding vegetaon was no longer cul-vated and turned into wild bush and weed.

During 1953, the Police and the Naonal Army together es-tablished the rowing club Parzan and built club house and poolfacilies. Unl this me, Ada could only be accessed by boat so

that traffic control was easy outside the main season. Rowers suchas the popular Parzans hockey player Rudolf Reno who had a pig-sty and an occasional love boat were Adas only visitors. There arealso stories about a former prisoner called Mita, who was the firstperson to build a small shack on the island. He cut down four trees,hooked them up and made a floang house in which he lived unlhis death.

Prison control during the high season was ght and invisible,and those officially vising the Island were closely monitored. Evenaer the destrucon of the prison on the ra with the bath be-longing to the Organisaon for the Protecon of the People duringthe season at any me during the day a handful security officersor supporters who monitored movements in this area, how longthey stayed and how many mes they trespassed. Cauon wasspurred by the belief that the purpose of their visit was to inspectthe execuon place and alleged burial ground of General DraaMihailovi.14


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. Ada Ciganlija . Early Development of Tourism . Ada Ciganli a .Early Development of Tourism

40

1954. -. - ( 1956), .

- -.

, -, - - -.

This situaon lasted unl 1954 when the prison inmates weremoved and the prison destroyed to make way for the big develop-ment project and the restoraon of natural habitat. Nowadays onlyfragments of the prison foundaons can be seen from the modern

cycling track, andthe monumenterected in memoryof the communistprisoners of thesocialist regime issurrounded withrose bushes.


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. Ada Ciganlija . Expansion of tourism

. a gan a .Expansion of tourism

(19582000)

Expansion of tourism(19582000)


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Ada Ciganlija


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, 1958. -. ,

. -,

, . - je 50- 20. -.

, .25. . a .

. - , , , , -, - ,

Aer the Second World War, the first ma-

jor plans for the development of AdaCiganlija began in 1958. Unl then, Adawas an undeveloped, uninhabited and

flooded island on the City outskirts. Frequent floodswreaking havoc threatened to destroy the islands wa-

tersides, leaving behind devastated land with stagnantponds and of mosquito broods. With the beginning ofthe 1950s, the first illegal houses were built on theAda shores.

With the relocaon of the prison and its inmatesfrom Ada, a significant phase in the development ofthe tourism began. Elderly cizens of Belgrade re-

marked that the so called students baths of Belgrade was thepreest beach on the shores of the River Danube and Sava, butthat it was arrogantly destroyed with the building of the 25th May

Sports Centre. The Belgrade Bath was on the western side of theisland. The only access to it was via a ny path through bush full ofsnakes and lizards, making girls scream on their occasional wanderfrom the path. Apart from the rowers and girls who came to watchthem, Ada began to be visited by the genle from the nearingdistricts of Senjak, Topider and Dedinje. These people were the

Ada Ciganlija


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, . . , -

.

. 200 ara .

, 1953. . , -

. - , . , 12, .15

, -, . ,.

- -. -, .

descendants of once rich families and connued the tradion oftheir parents who loved the pre-war Ada era. Expensive sailboats,yachts, skiffs made of good quality wood and prey boat-houseswere anchored at Ada. With the departure of the winds of war, the

days of stylish life and ra returned. Yachts changed hands as com-rades took them over. Boat-houses, the first private-owned prop-erty in Belgrade since the war soon emerged.

By the summer of 1953, the media reported the number ofvisitors to Ada beaches had significantly increased. In that year, July

recorded high temperatures and more thanmany thousand of people came to Ada seek-ing relief from the heat. Two tram-lines oper-ated daily in the Ada direcon; one was No.3and other No. 13. Boats and floats transferred

visitors from the mainland to the island. Dur-ing the high season, one regular two-man boatwith a capacity of 50 people provided a regularservice.15

On the island there were only two floatboats, one shower facility with change-roomsand lockers, and two rowing clubs, the Parsan

and Red Star. Their rivalry was shown in the popular movie HeyBabu Riba (1985).

The Red Star, Sports and Swimming Associaon was one ofthe first sports associaons formed in the Socialist Yugoslavia. Atthe very beginning, swimmers and water polo players organisedtheir acvies on the shores of the Sava beach on Ada. They usedold empty barrels to define the edges of their swimming ground,and ropes instead of swimming pool lane lines. This generaon of

Ada Ciganlija


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, --, -

, , -, , . -.

, , , ,

, - , ,, .

swimmers were lead by Maraand Mia Stanojev, MiloradJeremi-Cane and, at the meunsurpassed, the multalented

Severin Bijeli-Seva, professionalactor, swimmer, water polo andsoccer player and occasionalvolleyball player. He was nick-named the Johnny Weissmullerof Belgrade.

The rest of the island wassll dense marshland. It wasoen flooded, even in summer,and impassable, with muddy

shores oen covered in thickvegetaon and wild grass, full ofmosquitoes and snakes.

. Ada Ciganlija


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- - -. - 1948-49 . -

, - . - , ;. - 1951. .

. - -; , . , , - : ,.

TREE HOUSES GATAWAY FROM THESOCIALIST REALITY

Among the first post-was enthusiast and inhabitants of theisland was undoubtedly the student from the Senjak district,Predrag-Pea Ris. During the 1950s, Pea designed and builthis first tree-houses that would later bring him recognion andpopularity. His house was accessed via improvised ladders. Thehouse grew taller each year. The main element of this house wasa terrace aached to the branches while stretching wide to givebreathtaking panoramic views over the water surface. The founda-on for the first nest, which was the term of endearment usedfor the tree house, was laid in 1951. It was built of old woodenplanks from tugboats and floats. A person needed complete mas-

tery and courage to access it, as climbing the large branches block-ing the way up while thick mudand smaller branches were un-der them was terribly danger-ous. The mobile terrace waslied up once the owner wasaway. Pea had a list of impor-tant guests who were allowed

to visit his sky-shack, climb upthe tree over the wooden obsta-

cles, and sit and enjoy the viewsfrom the terrace. Not even awarm word or recommenda-on could change his mindabout who was allowed access,especially if the person was a

. Ada Ciganlija


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g j . Expansion of tourism

47

, .

.

, (),

. -

. -.16

- , , , . , -. , .17 , , , : , ,

. ,

,

, -

, ...18

communist sympathiser. One of the regular visitors was the poetMomo Kapor, who describes the atmosphere in following words:We occasionally slept in this shack and were woken up by thesound of the morning bird in their nests. As the tree grew taller,

the house was extended another storey. Here we learned that itwas not necessary to live on the ground all the me. But some fell

out of the tree (the tree shook them off)and so to this day, I can hear thumps asthey fell to reality. We occasionally bumpinto each other on the zebra crossings.We gaze at each other through the carwindows and measure the amount of thedownfall on our faces.16

This bold and masterful architectalso offered to manufacture this cheap,pre-historic house over the beach forthe enre colony. Where there were notrees, wooden posts of different heightwould be set. Each tetrahedron smallhouse would open as a flower opens itspetals. This opening mechanism would

enable small houses to be nested into the bigger ones when theirresidents le at the end of the season.17 For the Architect, like formany others who disliked the present regime, Ada was a true re-prieve, and natural oasis providing the freedom to run away from

reality and conformist social clichs of the me: It was not onlymine, but rather the enre social life of post-war Belgrade that re-volved around Ada in summer and in winter. At that me likemany other towns, there were no cafes in Belgrade. There was onlythe main pedestrian walk in Knez Mihailova Street where youngpeople aimlessly strolling back and forth while ogling each other.18

. Ada Ciganlija


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. Expansion of tourism

48

- , - , , . . -, , - -

- -: - - -

-, - - ,

UNCONTROLLED GATHERINGS OF THEPETITE BOURGEOIS IN THE DECLINE

Young revellers and zealots filled the lile house in the trees,triggering the suspicion of neighbours at the nearby Yacht club andboarders from the River Marine High School on board the Stenkaship. Savski Venac District authories received peons from thesewatchful neighbours and issued an order for the demolion of thetree house. The explanaon given for this decision, against whichopponents had no right of appeal, was that the tree house was a

gathering place forthose youths whoseconduct was a poorrole model to Titos

young people. TheBoarding Tech-Ma-rine High Schoolauthories submit-ted a leer to theDistrict Authori-es in which theyclamed that duringthe summer sea-

son, a group of young people gather in a log hut amongst the birch

trees at the juncon of the Topider River delta and Sava Lake. TheHigh School authories further claimed these youths behaved anddressed inappropriately for Titos youth. Their poor behaviour hada bad influence on the protgs of the Boarding school. The SchoolBoard suggested the tree house be destroyed. Architect Ris wasordered to remove the 1.5 by 3.5 meters and 2.20 meter high

. Ada Ciganlija


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, , . - 1,5-3,5 2,20

5 .19 1963. . , . 151 , - - . , - , , , : . -

-

,

. -

: -

-

--

-

a, .20

illegal tree house from the delta of the Topider River within fivedays.19 Even though Ris had completed a proper architecturalplan in 1936, he never obtained building permission. Realising that

jusce was on the side of the authories; he dismantled the house

and reassembled it over the empty barrels floang in the water.The new floang house was an addion to the exisng 151 floanghouses in the Sava River so Ris was readily granted permission bythe authories to use it some hundred meters from its original lo-caon. However, as the floang house became the target of a poli-cal fight against uncontrolled youth or potenal public enemy asthey were perceived rather than the focus of a discussion on con-trolled and organised construcon on the island, it was completelydemolished. For a number of years my friends and I were totallymad without the tree house. With the help of the Associaon ofthe Sava and Danube Rivers Lovers we tried to get at lest a piece ofland to e up the barrels and build our pile-dwellings. Such objects

were not included in the islands urban-isaon plan. Aer several rejecons, acourt decision prohibited the construc-on of our floang houses on the riverto prevent their use by an-social, Pe-te Bourgeois for uncontrolled gather-ings aimed at feeding their greed forsmall personal gains, and bourgeoisiehabits and hobbies, remembers today

architect Ris.20

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. Ada Ciganlija E i f t i


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- . , , , , , . , -, , . .

, -. , , . 280 60- -.

, , , , ,,

. 1962. , , , , -. , ,

THE SAVA AND DANUBELOVERS ASSOCIATION

In me, the fashion of building pile-dwelling and floang houses became morepopular. Apart from many individual own-ers, organisaons including the Rudar, Geo-logical Instute NRS, Naonal Bank, Anikopand Petrolgas built prely designed floanghouses for their workers. People used to fish,sunbathe, swim and row. There were no or-ganised recreaonal acvies on these pile-houses and floang houses. Specific materialfor building, renovang or maintaining these

houses was not available. Property securitywas non-existent so boats, floang housesand pile-dwellings were regular targets forbreak-ins and robbery. During the 1960s,most of the 280 houses had no official docu-mentaon from the Marine Authories.

Lovers of the domesc vacaon des-naon, many of Belgrades eminent doc-

tors, architects, lawyers and rered journalists, became acve inthe legalisaon of their pleasure spot. In 1962, the Associaon was

established as the vehicle to support the ideals of these cizensand ensure minimum standards were applied to the construconand maintenance of buildings on the island and its shores. The keyinsgators of these ideals were architect Ris and lawyer PetarVue. 429 acve members and 2100 supporters of the Associa-on proposed a program to ensure the majority of the cizens of

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. 429 () 2.100 .-.

80 , 90 8 .21

, -50 -. , -, . . , . 1968. , , . 70-, . , .

Belgraders could find affordable vacaon when vising the Savaand Danube rivers. At this me the Associaon owned 80 riverhouses, 90 boats and 8 pile-dwellings.21

Aer several public reviews of development projects and pro-

posals, the Associaon, lead by architect Ris, finally obtainedrestricted developmental consent to build 50 pile-dwelling on AdaMeica, a smaller, wild and inhabited island near Ada on the SavaRiver. Ris was the first contractor and builder. He was also en-gaged in the illegal construcon of several houses but didnt makeenough profit to fund the building his own house. His friend, thefamous composer Zoran Hris, came to his rescue by paying forconstrucon material whilst Ris provided the manual labour. Fi-nally, during the period of student demonstraons in 1968, a newhouse was built in two weeks. The trend of building these housesconnued throughout the 70s, so that both Adas gained more resi-dents, some of whom lived on the islands for most of the year.

. Ada Ciganlija Expansion of tourism


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53

, 1957.

.

. -. 1958. 19611963. 1967. . - , - , . a , a , , . , - . , -. -. . , , -.22

, , , , - . . ,

DOING IT FOR ADA, ADA WILL BE OURS.In 1957 on the iniave of the Naonal Commiee of the City

of Belgrade, the Department for Development of Ada Ciganlija was

established. The first phase included the building of a mulfunc-onal centre for recreaon. Hundreds of young people from allover Yugoslavia were involved in the project. Youth work aconsstarted in 1958 while most of the construcon and developmentworks were done between 1961 and 1963, and 1967. Before themain works began, the main prison house and its facilies weredemolished while landscaping commenced. During the subsequentdecade unl the connecon with the mainland was built, furtherdevelopment of the island, its shores and landscaping, was done ina series of youth work acons. Slobodan Boban Vukadinovic recallsthat the biggest problem for these young people were swampyground overgrown with weeds and roots hard to break with sho-vels caused blisters on their palms. The first transport vehicleswere the ox-drawn carts used to bring material, gravel and stones.Through work camps in Ada passed hundreds of brigadiers. Eachyear five work brigades were engaged in the works. Brigade com-manders were Dragia Djuri, Dragoljub Vujani, Milun Tadi andKrs Aleksandar. Krs and Vujani later became the directors ofthe Ada enterprise while others had successful careers on high po-sions in the Municipality ofukarica or local government.22

Apart from few enthusiasts, the cizens of Belgrade were not

parcularly keen on parcipang in youth work acons. However,because of their love for the Adas they put aside their views andworked alongside the rest of the youth workers. It was the loveof the islands for younger generaons and the descendant of theold reaconary family to join the ranks of the volunteers. Theywere hard-working and diligent and did not care if they would be



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54

, , .23

2011. -

. - 500. , , . .

honoured by being asked to raise or lower the Brigade flag or bedecorated with the best-worker medal.23

In 2011 the Associaon of the Members of the Youth Aconswas founded that soon grew into an ORA Associaon comprising

parcipants from the Republics of the former Yugoslavia with theintenon to foster the values and tradions of work acons. Mem-bers of this Associaon are not only the parcipants in the YouthAcons but over 500 former youth workers who took part in thereconstrucon of the post war Yugoslavia. Among them are for-mer parcipants now living in France, Canada, Slovenia and otherformer Yugoslav republics. Eternal youngsters have their faci-lies in Ada and they regularly meet every Wednesday in the DomOmladine.



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1963.

. -

25. 1964. . . 74 ( 70.000 ), 446.000 - . , 450 -. , . - .

- . -. . -, .24

, .

, . , , . , , ,

THE LAKE PROJECTBy 1963, embankments pro-

tecng the island from the floods

were built and the Belgrade Bathsrestored. On 25th June 1964, thefinal urban development plan forAda was approved. It proposed theparoning of the Sava River andthe formaon of a lake covering 74acres of water which would caterfor around 70,000 swimmers plusmore than 446.000 square metersdedicated to sports facilies. Withthe plans implementaon, Belgrade

would gain an exclusive recreaonarea of 450 acres. The Lake Projectprovided Belgrade with the Olym-pic rowing venue. The urban planwas devised and built by the projectmanagement company Sports Proj-ect in conjuncon with The Instutefor Urbanisaon in Belgrade.

Ada Ciganlia is a low-lying areaand is threatened by floods for mostof the year. By building the connec-

on between the island and themainland, the island gained a lakewith a seven and a half kilometresbeach front. The construcon of thelake was based on a comprehensivestudy, including the hydrological



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, . --

. -

, - , - . . ,

. - , - . , - -

50 . -. 250 270 .

analysis of the area by the Jaroslav erni Instute, and the hydro-logical works were designed by the engineer Bani on behalf of IvanMilunovi, the company responsible for water supply of Belgrade.Other top experts were engaged to provide advice on the hydrologi-

cal needs of the future lake and other development issues.

24

Regardless of these ingenious ideas to create a new face forthe peninsula, cung offthe Sava backwater at the ukarika pa-dina caused much public controversy. Most disputes concernedthe potenal impact upon the low de of the Sava River near Bel-grade, and whether the newly built connecon would exacerbatethe problem once the Lake was formed. In reality, there were twoopposing visions for the future of Ada. One vision was conservaveand viewed Ada as a nature reserve with pile-dwellings and tree-houses suitable for modern Robinson Crusoe types, while the othermodern view of Ada was for providing infrastructure for large num-

bers of visitors and maximise its full tourism potenal. The laterwas finally realised.The likes of Aleksandar orevi, director of the Urban Ins-

tute of Belgrade and defender of the modern view, claimed theproject would always provide clean water for swimmers. The proj-ect would also improve river transportaon. More importantly, thelake would retain constant water levels through out the year. Mini-mal water fluctuaons of half a meter above or below the targetlevel could occur but these would be controlled by specially de-signed pumps. The project design included the building of an em-bankment towards the main river course; a natural vegetaon belt

of 50 meters in width would remain between the main river bedand the embankment. Cung off the rivers backwater, the exist-ing vegetaon area on the newly formed peninsula would be con-nected to the vegetaon area in Maki. This way the enre lakewould be surrounded by a forest with an area between 250 and270 acres.

59



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80.000 !

-

, . , . , , --, ., - . - 1963. . ,

80.000 (-).25

, - . : , , , . --

, . , .

A BEACH FOR 80,000 PEOPLEThe deteriorang water quality of European rivers and the

growing danger of water polluon from factories proved to be the

turning point, with the modern vision for Adas development be-coming adopted. This plan promised good water quality for swim-ming in both the lake and from the islands shores. Architect NikolaGavrilovi, the author of this concept, emphasised that consistentlyclean and clear lake waters and other qualies would provide amuch longer swimming season for the cizens of Belgrade. In con-trast, Belgrade beaches were rarely visited during June becausethe land was oen flooded. Gavrilovis concept would preservethe islands natural landscape and its surroundings. The ambiouscompleon date for the development works on the island was setfor end of 1963. The Public was more intrigued by the fact that

the island would cater for 80,000 people rather than the targetedworks compleon. Stascs show that in a single day during thehigh season there were more than 100.000 visitors on the island.25

Contrary to those who favoured this concept, many doubtedthat it was possible to turn running water into a puddle. The op-ponents of the adopted concept ignored the plans construcon oftwo major pump staons to control water levels. The first pumpwould filter and chlorinate water pumped in from the Sava river,while the second pump would remove stale water at the lower par-on and pump it into the Sava River. An agreement was made

between the Rail Authories and the developers to use dredgedmaterial from the rivers backwaters bed to build the embankmenton the Maki side where the future shunng staon would be lo-cated. In two to three months, the lakes bed would be increasedwhile partly smulang natural subterraneous water flow that hadbeen blocked by thick layers of mud.


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Ex a n oft ur s


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- , , ,, . ,

5.000 , . . 70 .

According to the former director of the Ada Ciganlija enter-prise, Sinia orlomanovi, the cizens of Belgrade were now ableto use asphalt roads to access Ada and drive around the island. Theplan included a parking area on the island for 5,000 vehicles, with

parking for the same number on the other side in the ukarika pa-dina. As a result, one no longer could kick the ball where ever theypleased. The central part of the island envisioned 70 playgroundsand tennis and football schools for children.



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, , !, 1962.

, : ,, ! , , ,

! -

. ...

. . -

, .

, , 20 30 . , .

.

. -, .26

, , , , -, , - , .

ADIOS, ADA! YOULL SOON BE GONE!Many old Ada lovers or Adadijas, members of theAssociaon

of the Sava and Danube Lovers since 1962, opposed the Lake Proj-ect. They believed it would adversely impact this natural oasis onthe edge of town: Adios, Ada! Youll soon be gone! Ada means river

island and if connectedto the mainland, it be-comes a peninsula!,grumbled popular ac-tor, Pavle Vujisi. .. Asfar as I am concerned,if they wish they canconstruct a runway onthe island, the only

missing thing here. Ihave a small boat. Idont care. WheneverI want to, I can get myboat underway andin one hour, Ill find aspot no man has everseen and no car hasever been. I only won-der what thousands ofother people without

boats or cars will do. For 20 or 30 years, theyve spent their sum-mer vacaon every year on this beauful island. When hundreds ofpeople drive to the island over these roads, where will they hide?Id leave Ada as it is. I would build pile-dwellings and connect themwith ny pathways. It would cost ten mes less and people wouldenjoy it more than what they have in mind.26


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In addion to enthusiasts and adaijas, many companies in-cluding Graciar, Rad, Invesciona banka, Jugopetrol, and Elektro-distribucija were also against the plan. They already had ownershipof some swimming facilies and floang-houses on the islandsshores along Sava river, and were in charge of the Par zan and

Red Star rowing clubs. Some expert members of the Associa-on of the Sava and Danube Lovers believed the project was notin harmony with nature, represenng a crime against it. ArchitectPea Ris was of the opinion that it was an immense project. Hewas more for preservaon of the natural environment, just as onewould preserve a beauful painng. Sun umbrellas and palm treesare missing and wed have our own Florida or Long Beach, he usedto say. Riss idea was to have tree-houses with discreet lighngscaered among the trees, like colourful flowers lit at night. Hisplan also included an area cleared of wild bushes and weed, ele-vated walking paths and prey piers and a bridge over the Sava

River. According to his calculaons this project would cost a lot lessand neither the forest nor river ecosystem would be under threatfrom development. Within the islands environs, a modern sportsand recreaon centre would be built.27

ADA BECOMES A FANCYWATERFRONT CITY

Finally, in 1967 Ada ceased to be an island. The plan designed

by Olga Divac to connect the island with the mainland has beencompleted. It final look Ada Ciganlija received only aer 1971when the World Kayaking and Canoe compeons were held.From 26 unl 29 August, 1971, 370 kayakers and canoeists from26 countries parcipated in the Championships. Before the event,the Home of Sports centre was constructed. A spectators-stand,


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the Jezero restaurant, addional facilies, and main paths androads were built.

City Authories issued a decree in 1975 prohibing swimmingin the open Belgrade Baths were closed and the focus was trans-ferred to Adas Beaches. At the end of the 70s Ada finally became a

major sports and recreaon centre, with walking and cycling pathsand a large regulated beach surrounding the new lake. Prey ex-pansive lawns replaced the underbrush, transforming the shoresinto aracve zones. The islands popularity grew each year, espe-cially amongst those looking for around-the-clock entertainment.

Large numbers of visitors popularised many places includingthe floang restaurant owned by Titos former chef on the Krajinaship, Slavko unjar. Other places such as the Gondolijerka andStenka, located on the lower end of the island, were popular ven-ues. Soon motorboats became the fashion. The popularity for high-speed motor-boat races along the Sava and Danube Rivers, and

nights out on the float-houses and pile-dwell-ings gained momentum. Ada was slowly trans-formed into a fancy city on the waterfront.

The islands shores and interior weretamed. New floang-houses started toemerge, the first owned by the Lord Mayorof Belgrade City Jaa Rajter. During the 1960sa full length Olympic pool was constructed.It was short lived as hot water springs werediscovered in its vicinity, resulng in plans toturn Ada into a spa centre. These plans went

even further the city developers planned tobuild a hotel near the pool. The pool was sub-sequently closed and filled with soil while theplans to turn this area into a Disney-like enter-tainment centre never came to fruion.


ADA OLD TIMERS THE ADADIJAS


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ADA OLD-TIMERS THE ADADIJASPeople are the heart and soul of a place. One beau ful depic-

on of the old Ada and the people who loved her floang-housesand flocked to her shores was given by one of the most famousand passionate Ada lover, the writer Momo Kapor. Thousand ofthese houses are ed up to Ada by chains, ropes and logs (colloqui-ally called orpanji). Here, they [adadije] dream their childhooddreams a place to themselves, one that rocks on water, does notresemble the dull and unimaginave city interiors from which theyescape so as not to suffocate. Office clerks, crasman, mechanics,painters, rered chefs and ex-military men and policians: they allbecame Tom Sawyers and Huckleberry Finns. They each have theirhideaways made of throwaways shabby furniture (broken cou-ches, old kitchen cabinets, heaters no-one wants, broken crockery-sets) tucked away from the outside world while refusing to cometo terms with gloomy everyday life. Only when theyve done all the

things required in life bought a flator a house, filled it with furniture,and sent children to good schools

are they are allowed to be TomSawyers and Huckleberry Finns, tolook down the river above the mouthand into the gray city over the bri-dges, full of buildings in which bat-tles of life and death are fought dayand night by a single department,division or parts of the company.They throw their fishing lines andlook upon the city and the idiocbales which once they shared withhumility.28


MEMORY LANE


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MEMORY LANEDown the Sava these ras glide gently through the misty

memory of Ada legends. They comprise an unusual combinaonof nature lovers and various eccentrics. The memory glides withits stern against the upper point of Ada Me ica where once thefloang-house and the huge belly ofDule Glavonja could be seen.People said that when he cooked a pot of fish-broth and drunk alitre of Banat Riesling, his snoring made the leaves from the nearbyCanadian Oak trees fall! Visitors enjoying a serve but not wan ngto wake him up le their payment on the old kitchen cabinet andsailed away into the birches. His wife Aunt ivana took care of the

house and cooked popara (bread-mash) fordrowsy boatmen.

The famous bohemians included MilePile (Mile the Chicken) who for a long mecruised the river and with his song, enthusedmany self-indulging drunks on the ra-houses.Like Karuzo, (the Caruso) violinist, this talent-less singer could only be listened to when ina drunken state. Meanwhile, Voja Rus (Vojathe Russian) perfected singing Russian songs.A regular face was Miladinka, a semi-heavy-weight boxer whose female nick-name gothim into some difficult and ght situaons.Last but not least among the music legendswas Milan Beli, who in the sevenes movedfrom Split (now in Croaa) to Belgrade, bought

a floang house in which he lived with two cats and a dog un l hisdeath. Noble and well educated, Mina Galvanski was one of thepreest ladies in Belgrade during the fiies, a planum beauty likeIrene Forsyte (famous beauty from the television series The Forsyte


- Saga) People used to say she cursed like a taxi driver Disappointed


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Saga). People used to say she cursed like a taxi driver. Disappointedwith her broken marriage, she could be seen on Dule Glavonjasfloang-house sing on a log drinking cognac. There was anotherfamous lady, Ljubica, who was the heart and soul of the floang-house bearing her name, the property of the Associaon of the

Owners of the Float-houses.On the upper point of Ada Meica, Isa lived in the smallest of

all the floang-houses amongst the junk he had collected du ringhis lifeme. Here, for example one could find original springs fromthe Seagull, and shot-down English fighter plane. Isa died a weekaer he sold his floang-house. He enjoyed drinking rakija andplucking his guitar. Further along from Isas house lived Milane,the best boat builder on the river. He used to build the bestOlympic boats which builders following him could not replicate.Milanes crasmanship resulted in the boat version of Stradivariusviolins floang up the river.

A famous eccentric on the water was Maximilian fonRakasovi, descendant from the aristocrac family in Vojvodina.His family received their coat of arms from the Austrian Tsar in 17th

century. Their house is on the corner of Siminaand Zmaj Jovina streets in Belgrade, and ooz-es of anquity with painngs of his ancestorsdressed in armour. Von Rakasovi was the Ad-miral of the Kings Navy and found it difficult toleave the water. He had a face that many feared,but was a kind soul who entertained friendschildren sailing on the river on his beauful sail-boat, which he bought aer the war.

In the plethora of the Ada legends Pile Epi-kurejac (the Chicken Epicurean) was always el-egantly dressed in a white shirt and bow-e. Hewas concierge at SANU (The Serbian Academy


, - of Sciences and Arts) and a crasman by trade. Adadijas remem-


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of Sciences and Arts) and a crasman by trade. Adadijas remember the old raer Paja Velikovi, a member of the Soccer NaonalTeam who scored the winning goal in a friendly game against theAlbanians in Tirana. With this goal he broke the agreement to finishthe game with a draw. He barely retained his head on his shoulders

aer the game.As the canoe glides through the misty memories, it finds Pea

Ris, an architect from Belgrade, nicknamed Isus (Jesus) by Seve-rin Bijeli because of his ginger beard. Hebuilt the first tree-house on Ada Meicaslower point. Because of his ideas and life-style, he was called the Robinson (Crusoe)of Serbia. He used to say: The birches on ourriver islands (adas) near Belgrade and else-where are just as interesng and exoc asthose on Hawaii. All we need do is to bringpeople and show them the kind of naturethat is only seen in the movies.29

The uncrowned kings of Ada were theVujisi brothers, Duja and Paja (referring toDonald Duck), the famous actor. Paja spentmost of his breaks from filming on Ada sum-mer and winter. He never went on a vacaon,the me he spent on Ada represenng his

summer and winter vacaons. He owned a floang-house whereone could eat and drink well. His regular visitors during the famoussocialite era of grand film producons were popular domesc andinternaonal actors and film directors. They ate and drank in thecompany of local fishermen and the homeless whose only homewas Ada. He built a boat, called it the Mississippi, and oen cruisedalone up and down the Sava and Danube rivers and their tributa -ries. He loved building boats and making improvements to them.


He also loved to cook. Paja always had his cooking tools on hand


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j y gBBQ, crepulje and sa (earthenware). Interesngly, he never wentfishing. He sold his floang-house to the old adaija and bohemianVladimir alipurevi, who died there at a very old age.

The famous writer and publicistZuko Dumhurspent much of

his me on Ada and wrote many of his books there. He was one ofthe most zealous fighters for preservaon of the old Ada and wasan acve member of the Associaon of the Sava and Danube Lov-ers. Ada was also frequently visited by Prince ore Karaorevi,who was aracted to this adventurous and bohemian lifestyle.

Many of the best pages of the novels by Momo Kaporwerewrien here. Other mes he was enjoying the schnapps or takinglong strolls along the Adas walking paths. At the beginning of the1970, the popular weekly magazine Bazar (Bazaar) published Ka-pors stories and drawings under the pseudonym Beleke jedneAne (Notes by an Ana). These short stories are the most beauful

stories about Belgrade, Ada and her fishermen, a certain Keva (col-loquial for mother) who cooks the best pasulj (bean broth), aboutthe waters of Sava, bohemian-painters, happyand sad drunks, and similar eccentrics. Somethinghappened that even Kapor could not have imag-ined Ada became a celebrity and the place to go.Everyone read Kapors stories and it became sofashionable that who wanted to be seen had to bethere. Kapor became a trend-seer and if he men-oned the name of a parcular float-house in oneof his stories, such as the popular evabdinica

(sausage place) Kod Janiija, people flocked there.Old adadijas retreated to more secluded loca-ons like the floang-house Kod minkera, prop-erty of the Koutnjak film company. Once it be-came the hot spot, they moved to Dule Glavonjas


, . restaurant on the upper point of the island, near the No 17 water


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supply staon. The water supply staons were the landmarks orpoint of reference for objects on Ada.

ivan Saramndi, the famous Serbian basso profondo cameto Ada. While Kapor enjoyed his famous cruising boat, Saramandi

brought his ny sailing boat. While these two enjoyed sailing theirboats, Pavle-Paja Vujisi enjoyed sing in front of the Parsan sip-ping wine while watching the captains cabin and the big wheelof his boat. Dejan Medakovifirst became a member of the AdaAcademy then a member of the Serbian Academy of Sciencesand Arts on Knez Mihailova Street. He came to visit doctor DuanMaksimovi, who each year opened the swimming season at theend of March and closed it at the end of October. Medakovi neverknew who he would find in the float-house each me he arrived.Dragan Lubarda rarely came to this far point of the island. Onthose rare occasions when he did come, he arrived wearing a hand-

some long gray beard, clogs on his feet and an unusual coat whichhe carried a drawing pad clutched under his upper arm. Then therewas Bruno Hrasnski one of the most prominent figures in Ser-bian sports. Bogdan Tirnani, one of the most prominent Serbian

journalists and essayists, had his floang-house where fishermenunloaded their nets at dawn or dusk. On his deck, the popular ac-tors Dragan Nikoliand Bora Todoroviwere regulars and SilvanaArmenuli, the beauful singer who tragically died in a car crash,used to sing in the Grafiarrestaurant.

The first manager of the Belgrade Beach on Ada was Slobo-dan-Boban Vukadinovi. He worked on Ada for 35 years. As part

of his daily work roune, Boban mingled with legendary adadijasincluding Momo Kapor, one of Adas greatest spokesmen, dinedwith Zuko Dumhur and Paja utura (Paja the Flask), the schnappslegend, and oen visited Dule Glavonja for one of the best fish-broths on Ada.


, Many wrote about Ada. Not even Ivo Andri, Serbias Nobel


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Prize winner for Literature, could resist the temptaon. He wrotecolorfully and masterfully about the people who lived on the waterduring the summer or the whole year-round. However, he couldhardly conceal his intolerance of the conflict between those who

sought to financially gain from Ada and those who felt a spiritualconnecon to Ada. He wrote: There comes the rowing eight-mancrew in a boat made offine Japanese wood which is almost invi-sible under the weight of the eight rowers in white t-shirts withan emblem on their chest. The rowers rhythmically push theirpaddles and glide like a speedy cenpede. However, according toAndri, physical acvity did not do a person much good because:The physical acvity hardens their hearts and weakens their mindsand instead of pugnacity, masculine roughness and aggression areborn and joined by speculaon, greed, and intrigue. Although thetanned and oiled skin of their bodies are beau ful to behold, theyshine as wet bronze in sun.30

These people represenng different professions, aspiraonsand fates were connected with one thing only their love of na-ture and their wild and cheerful souls that resisted a convenonallifestyle.

ADA MEICA AND THE SEVENTIESWEEKEND-MANIA

A long me ago, the border between the Austro-HungarianMonarchy and Serbia ran between two Adas, Ada Ciganlija and AdaMeica (or Ada Zanoge as it was once called). The word meica sig-nifies borderline, hence the name of the island. While Ada Ciganlijabelongs to the ukarica District, Ada Meica, its smaller sibling cover-


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military generals), they all had something in common: none had elec-t i it Th i l d d t i dl d l i t d


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tricity. The islanders agreed to using candles and gas lamps instead.Devotees of this kind of lifestyle claim that Belgrade is the

only city in Europe where people live in floang-houses. Thoughthere are places where people live on sailing boats and ships, there

is no other naon in Europe where people live in floang-houses.Venice may be a city of canals and Stockholm one of lakes, butpeople do not live in floang-houses in other European naonsIn Belgrade people have done so for ages. Other locaons such asNovi Sad in Vojvodina have a similar concept where people live inpile-dwellings.

ROBINSON CRUSOE COLONIESDuring the weekend-mania of the 1970s, hundreds of houses

were built to create a whole colony on Ada Meica. One reasonfor this construcon acvity was reflected high standards of livingand lenient lending condions. The system of self-managementand beer working condions for workers (contrary to todaysroller coaster market economy) also le room for such endeavors.To have a vacaon house was the privilege of every worker. Theremaining queson was where to build those houses, how big andwhat kind of facilies they needed. Along the shores of the Savaand Danube rivers, thousands of structures were built. Millionsof dinars were invested. Today they are mostly empty and can be

bought for a handful of euros.The Associaon of Weekenders made efforts to make avail-

able the best architectural designs for construcng these pre-Slaviccolonies (aka Robinson Crusoe colonies). The idea fast grew onstudents from the University of Architecture who constructed 300


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a solid hearth where one can concoct a pot la Ada Me ica orthrow a barbie During the hot summer days or weekends this par-


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throw a barbie. During the hot summer days or weekends this paradise island is a refuge for thousands of visitors. They find shelterin one of the floang houses or pile-dwellings; they socialise, swim,sunbathe or just take a nap.

POPULARISTAIONOF ADA CIGANLIJA (1980-2000)

Whether skies are cloudy or clear, on any given working daythe number of tourists vising Ada Ciganlia from Prevlaka to AdaBojana equals the number of cizens coming from Belgrade, re-marked Momo Kapor in a newspaper column during the 1990s.

THE PA

Ada Ciganlija

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Transcript of Ada Ciganlija