Wines from Luxembourg

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Today the Grand-Duchy of Luxembourg

is no longer reticent in disclosing to the wider

world a fact that twenty years ago was known

only to a few well-informed connoisseurs: this

is not only a good place to live, but also a good

place to enjoy wine – wine which has been

lovingly produced in the Moselle Valley for

centuries.

The passion of man, the very special soil

and the characteristic climate of this ‘grape

paradise’, all makes for a fruitful marriage.

It is now difficult to ignore this wine-producing

region which is gaining in reputation year by

year, and which uses both ancient know-how

and the latest technical innovations to its

advantage. Luxembourg wines and crémants

are today proudly exported across many

borders. Opportunities abound for consumers

to rediscover an ancestral cru or a more recent

grape variety. Whether it be a large public

gathering, a special event or a more intimate

evening encounter, the range of Luxembourg

grape varieties has something to suit every

occasion. You will be completely seduced by

the range of Luxembourg wines and crémants.

And with a grape variety to suit every palate,

Luxembourg, home to good livingNever has wiNe flowed so freely, Never was the hour of glory so sweet to savour, Never were the “temples” iN its hoNour, the wiNe bars, restauraNts aNd cafés, so prolific across the laNd of oNe of the smallest couNtries iN europe.

5

they can be appreciated as a drink but also

as a tasting experience.

The nine main grape varieties (Riesling,

Pinot noir, Pinot blanc, Pinot gris, Gewürz-

traminer, Auxerrois, Rivaner, Elbling and

Chardonnay) plus the crémants from the Grand-

Duchy will guide the reader through these

voluptuous and joyous pages. Is there any

more agreeable way of penetrating into the

heart of an area still so unknown?

the moselle valley offers welcoming accommodation for all ages, as depicted by this youth hostel.

the young generation of wine growers are enthusiastic about the future.

7

WInEs & CRéMAnTs

Eleven Luxembourg personalities have agreed to join us and answer our

questions. specialists or just wine lovers, each of them presents their favourite

variety in their own words. This is followed by an overview of the “speciality”

wines, some words on recent developments in vinification techniques and

a description of the quality control processes carried out in Luxembourg.

the grape varieties 8speciality wiNes 28luxembourg, betweeN traditioN aNd moderNity 30appellatioN coNtrôlée iN luxembourg 31

8

carole tompers iNtroduces us to the

RIEsLInGAromas: Citrus fruits, apricot, apple, pear, quince,

mirabelle plum, melon, white peach, exotic fruits,

spices, mineral notes, lime tree, eucalyptus, acacia,

orange blossom, elderberry flowers, petrol.

9

carole tompers, geNeral secretary of luxembourg for busiNess

We are proud of Riesling

Which of the grape varieties produced in Luxembourg is your favourite?

although i prefer red wines, my favourite of the grape varieties produced

in luxembourg is definitely riesling.

Can you describe this grape variety? Which of its characteristics do you

like best?

it’s not for nothing that it’s called “the King of wines” in luxembourg.

it has this rare ability to combine both sweetness and acidity in perfect harmony.

to drink riesling is to start from the mineral notes and arrive at the most fruity

notes, while passing through this spectrum of acidity. it is a very rich wine.

i also admire its ability to withstand even the harshest of winters. frost or no

frost, it always delivers a good wine. the weather conditions last year were ideal

for the production of an even fruitier riesling, just as i like it. i love this taste

of mango and passion fruit whereas in the drier rieslings, you can detect more

citrus aromas.

Is there a particular moment that you associate with tasting this grape?

in our profession, when we are working abroad we introduce our country

by placing great emphasis on the quality of life in luxembourg. offering the

opportunity to taste riesling is one way of demonstrating this quality of life –

by marrying the practical with the enjoyable. it’s one of the tools that we

always take with us. we are very proud of this prestige luxembourg prod-

uct and we have no qualms about letting people taste it; it’s almost

as if we were sharing a little of the grand-duchy way of life. reactions are

generally very positive. our contacts all know about riesling, but they

think of it more in connection with alsace or germany and it is always

a pleasant surprise for them to experience riesling from luxembourg.

and sometimes we even encounter a great connoisseur, who already

appreciates its qualities.

With which dish or food is it best enjoyed, in your opinion?

personally i think riesling complements grilled dishes very well -

the powerful flavours of grilled meat and sausages. in my mind i associate

it with good weather and sunshine, even in winter. Quite recently

i discovered that it was the perfect accompaniment to spicy chinese food.

very spicy dishes are counter-balanced by the coolness of this grape

variety. but i am confident that riesling will introduce me to even more

new discoveries...

The wine-grower’s view on riesling

“The King of wines” is the best known grape variety.

Rieslings are among the greatest white wines in the

world. The Moselle valley in Luxembourg offers

excellent cultivation conditions with its southerly

aspect, sloping hillsides, significant sunlight hours

and ideally suited terroir. Depending on the soil,

Riesling can be more mineral, richer or fruitier. It is

the grape variety that reacts the most to the terroir

and the climate over the whole year. For optimum

maturity, and well-structured wines, the ideal

weather pattern just prior to the grape harvest is an

alternating rhythm of hot days and cooler nights,

something which the Moselle valley does perfectly.

Even when the summers are particularly warm, the

Luxembourg soil retains its humidity very well. The

Riesling grapes are light green, gilded with yellow,

sprinkled with reddish-brown patches on reaching

full maturity. This gives a characteristic balanced

bouquet that is typical of this wine which, more

than any other grape variety, proudly discloses its

origin. Riesling is also the best grape variety from

which to produce late harvest and ice wines, as it

always retains sufficient freshness and acidity.

10

thierry coroNa iNtroduces us to the

PInOT nOIRAromas: Raspberry, wild strawberry, blackcurrant,

morello cherry, black cherry, blueberry, red currant,

blackberry, apple, caramel, vanilla.

thierry coroNa, sommelierpresideNt of the associatioN of europeaN sommeliers

I like to amaze my customers with Pinot noir


pinot noir


like best?

pinot noir is an extraordinary grape variety which can be very different

depending on the way it is produced. i think that it is very well suited to the

unique climate of the grand-duchy of luxembourg. it can be made into white

wine, by pressing and without any maceration, so you end up with a true white

wine, with a beautiful pale yellow colour with silver and even “onion skin”

reflections. we can detect notes of apples, a little over-ripe even. it leaves

a sense of lingering liveliness in the mouth. the longer you leave it to mature,

the more it will take on the aromas of ripening apples. when vinified into a rosé

after a short maceration, a light colour is obtained giving a very pale rosé with

hints of raspberries and wild strawberries. finally, longer maceration periods

yield a true red that can be further diversified depending on whether

it matures in old oak or new oak barrels, and for how long. this gives

a complex spectrum of aromas of wild blackberry and blackcurrant,

plus a hint of vanilla, if placed in oak.

Is there a particular moment that you associate with tasting this

grape?

personally i have the most fun with this grape. i love to astound

my customers with it: white, rosé or red – sometimes they go really crazy

for it and they’re always very surprised. it’s a grape variety to enjoy.

when i organise tastings of red pinot noir some of my customers think

they’re tasting a robust burgundy.


as a young white wine it goes very well with shell fish and fish.

its mineral quality is very pronounced, as the roots of the vines extend

down very deep. the more it ages, the better it complements fish dishes

in sauce and even white meats. when vinified into white wine, it is a very

adaptable grape variety. pinot noir rosé is a light and sophisticated wine,

best enjoyed with grilled meats and grilled fish. it’s an excellent wine for

quenching a summer thirst. we could draw up a full wine list of reds and

whites from pinot noir alone. it is a complete wine. the luxembourg

pinot noir is truly a grape that embodies its own terroir. it is not “forced”

then placed in a barrel to restrict its flavours. we can smell that the roots have

licked the soil. and this is what i look for – an identity and the pure minerality of

the soil. this is part of the richness we have in europe. we do not manufacture

wine. the wine-grower waits for the result of nature’s own work, with only

a little helping hand from us.

The wine-grower’s view on PinoT noir

Pinot noir, Pinot gris and Pinot blanc are all part of

the same family. In the vineyard the similarly shaped

leaves and grape bunches make it difficult to tell the

three types apart. It is only just before the harvest

that the grapes change colour and reveal their true

identities. The skin of the Pinot noir grape is very

dark, almost black, whereas the pulp and juice are

clear. The wine owes the intensity of its red colour to

the length of time the fruit skins are steeped in the

grape juice. Pinot noir is traditionally made into rosé

or red wine, but for the last few years it has also

been vinified into white wine. In all instances it is

important to select grapes that are perfectly ripe.

Vinification takes place either in stainless steel vats

or in oak barrels which smooth out the tannins and

give the Pinot noir its complex aromas.

12

thoruNN iNtroduces us to the

PInOT bLAnCAromas: Pineapple, citrus fruit, mirabelle plum,

quince, white peach, apricot, pear, green apple,

exotic fruits, dry fruits, white flowers, hints of menthol,

beeswax, browned butter, frangipane.

13

thoruNN, siNger aNd tv preseNter

Pinot blanc is a meal in itself


i come from iceland but i know all the luxembourg wines. you have a wine

culture here that doesn’t exist in iceland. for years there wine was too

expensive as there was no wine tradition. over the last ten years or so,

however, the icelandic people are starting to learn about wine, to taste it and

enjoy it. i adore chardonnay because it is a soft wine, it suits my personality

and there’s nothing quite like starting off an evening sipping a good glass of

wine. but the family’s favourite is definitely pinot blanc.

Can you describe this grape variety? Which of its characteristics

do you like best?

pinot blanc is not as smooth as chardonnay; it’s slightly more

aggressive but still very tasty. for me, it’s a pleasant wine which has

a nice feel on the tongue.

Is there a particular moment, a memory or a type of food that you

associate with tasting this grape?

personally i do not find that wine goes well with food. i prefer

to taste a wine on its own rather than to mix it with different foods,

even though i fully understand that wine can be a perfect complement

to food. for me, wine is a meal in itself, and if i have a glass of wine over

dinner, i tend to just nibble. always savouries, even if the wine is fruity.

as far as pinot blanc is concerned, it was mainly my sister who converted

me. she used to live in luxembourg, met her danish husband here and

then moved to copenhagen. Now every time i go and visit her she asks

me to take her two bottles of pinot blanc. it has become the family wine.

How is it best enjoyed, in your opinion?

i would say with my lover, lost somewhere in a castle in the north

of the country, at sunset. it’s a very romantic vision. wine is the very best

of addictions – mine in any case. a good glass of wine creates a wonderful

atmosphere: you sip it, you let it gradually go to your head and then finally the

magic of bacchus commences: “i love the sweet lies that bacchus tells me”.

The wine-grower’s view onPinoT blanc

Originating from the same grape family as its Pinot

gris and Pinot noir cousins, the Pinot blanc fruit is

yellowy-green when ripe. When fermented in a stain-

less steel vat in the traditional way, its lively charac-

ter is emphasised by a more pronounced freshness

than in the Pinot gris, similar to a Riesling. Domi-

nant aromas are of pear and yellow fruit. It can also

be fermented in barrel, which results in very differ-

ent wines impregnated with strong vanilla flavours.

Due to its elegance and freshness, Pinot blanc is

often used to make crémant sparkling wines.

14

eNrico luNghi iNtroduces us to the

PInOT GRIsAromas: Apricot, yellow peach, quince, mirabelle plum,

pear, citrus fruits, mango, passion fruit, acacia, nutmeg,

fig, date, honey, toast, tea, mint, spices,

dried fruits, mature fruits.

eNrico luNghi, geNeral director of the musée d‘art moderNe graNd-duc JeaN, luxembourg

Pinot gris is the mirror of the Moselle


pinot gris is one of my favourite luxembourg grape varieties, but as a

general rule i am very proud of our wines to the point that, without exception,

i serve them to our foreign hosts at all our exhibition previews. we always vary

the grape varieties and the domains so as not to favour any one in particular.

if you’re respecting the tradition of offering guests a drink when they attend

previews, you might as well take the opportunity to offer them something that

they don’t necessarily know and which is worth tasting. we have chosen to give

particular prominence to luxembourg wines.

Which of its characteristics do you like best?

i think the pinot gris is subtle and light while still retaining very

balanced and soft aromas. i like to drink it chilled but not too cold. in my

opinion it suits the moselle valley, or at least the idea that we like to have

of it – a soft and rich region that is more diverse and harmonious than

anywhere else in the country, while remaining authentic and influenced by

the land. there is a softness of life in the moselle valley that i value greatly.

Is there a particular philosophy that you associate with tasting

this grape?

what i love about wine in general is that it is like an art. first of

all there’s a tradition that has to be learnt, a technique that has to be

mastered. then there’s hard work, inspiration, the ability to know when

to take risks and how to make firm decisions at any given moment. an artist

may experience intense periods followed by less fruitful ones, just as the

same wine may have a good or a bad year. it is over the long term that

reputations are made. one should never judge an artist by a single work,

but over an entire evolution. and the same goes for great bottles of wine.


i rarely drink outside of meal times so for me pinot gris is ideally enjoyed

with lunches or dinners with friends, with a good wholesome meal of traditional

luxembourg or even alsatian fare, as my wife is from alsace. the fact that

pinot gris is a light wine means that it is a nice counterbalance to these heavy,

rich dishes. its finesse makes it the ideal partner for these social occasions.

The wine-grower’s view on PinoT gris

In the past the third member of the Pinot fam-

ily was not widely planted in the Moselle Val-

ley. but with the first land consolidations in

the 1960s, its cultivation became more wide-

spread. The moderate acidity and rich aromas

in Pinot gris made it an instant hit. Delight-

fully creamy, it offers a range of fruity aro-

mas, depending on its degree of maturity,

from quince to exotic fruits and raisins.

Thanks to its perfect balance, Pinot gris

remains the most popular grape variety in

Luxembourg today, its versatility making it

an easy wine to accompany food.

15

16

fraNçois valeNtiNy iNtroduces us to the

GEWüRzTRAMInERAromas: Rose, lychee, peach, apricot, melon, pear,

orange, grapefruit, raspberry, pineapple, preserves,

liquorice, verbena, honey, toast.

17

fraNçois valeNtiNy, architect

Gewürztraminer also delights the eyes


my grandparents were wine growers in remerschen. i did everything

i could to leave my village, but it was no good (laughs). even today if you’re not

a wine grower you are nothing. so i kept a piece of land. when i lived in vienna

i particularly enjoyed drinking muscat. so when i returned to luxembourg i tried

to keep this attachment by cultivating gewürztraminer because it is the closest

in style to muscat.


white wine should be fruity and chilled. as far as my gewürz-

traminer is concerned the problem is that working on the vines is not

always compatible with my profession, which of course remains my

priority. i want to get out into the vineyards, but it’s not always possible.

wine, and gewürztraminer in particular, needs a lot of attention. you have

to choose the grape bunches, sort them, and i’m not always there to do

it. in addition gewürztraminer is much more difficult than many other

grape varieties and it requires a great deal of concentration from the

outset. my ‘gewürz’ is certainly not the best, but i am still happy with it.

Do you associate a particular philosophy with the tasting of this

grape?

my approach to wine is constantly changing. our tastes and ideas

are in a state of permanent flux – it’s the proof of a mind that is open to

the outside world. but a good wine is of the utmost importance: drinking

bad wine is like saying i don’t deserve the best wine. by economising

we could die without having known how to enjoy it. it’s important not

to forget that one day we will die, and never to lose sight of that fact:

it also enables us to choose the right path in life.


i am influenced by the appearance of some wines. whenever i see a white

wine in a transparent glass bottle, to me it immediately signifies dry white wine,

and for me gewürztraminer should be in a yellow glass bottle. gewürztraminer

is linked to an image that influences my style. the same goes for wine glasses.

an amber-coloured gilded wine glass gives a totally different taste to white

wine. today’s world is no longer aesthetic, only functionality counts, which in

my opinion is a shame. if taste changes with age, the pleasure of drinking a soft,

chilled and fruity wine in a gilded bottle and served in a sophisticated baroque

glass never changes. so this wine also delights the eyes.

The wine-grower’s view on gewürzTraminer

Gewürztraminer is a highly perfumed wine

with a dominant nose. On tasting it exudes a

characteristic aroma of roses. It can be served

as an aperitif and also as a complement to foie

gras, brioche, cheese or dessert. It is also ide-

ally suited for vinification into late harvest and

straw wines. The elegance and sophistication

of Luxembourg “Traminer” sets it apart from

the rest, owing in large part to the local weather

conditions, but also to the perfect balance

between acidity, residual sugar and alcohol

content. The grapes are easily identified by

their pink to light red colour.

18

léa liNster iNtroduces us to the

AuxERROIsAromas: Melon, mirabelle plum, white flowers,

citrus fruits, lemon zest, passion fruit, kiwi, broom,

hints of menthol, acacia, honey, lime tree.

19

léa liNster, chef

Auxerrois isthe love of my life


there are two which i particularly adore, but for different reasons.

riesling, of course, since it is the most noble, a wine par excellence. in 2007

i produced a riesling that i selected with love. it’s a wine that perfectly reflects

my character and my personality – generous and joyful. it also has a light

sparkle that makes you feel happy to be alive. this wine is best served with love,

as it says on the bottle! otherwise, amongst the other luxembourg varieties,

i am in love with auxerrois.


like best?

i am not interested in “analysing” a wine. what i prefer are the emotions

that rise up in me when i taste a wine. i love to delight my palate. i don’t like

those wines that leave a rather acrid taste in the mouth. i appreciate

smoothness without the sweetness, and a light acidity without the acid.

auxerrois tends to be smooth. it’s soft without being heavy. for me, a glass

of wine really is a treat, and the glass i drink it from must be at the correct

temperature, neither too hot nor too cold. it must be clean and clear and

develop a light condensation as the wine is poured in. Not too much and not

too little, just enough for it to be appetising. i like to see auxerrois in a

high-stemmed glass with quite a small bowl like the alsatian glasses,

and to have someone refilling mine frequently!



auxerrois goes exceptionally well with smoked ham. this pairing creates

a second moment in the mouth which occurs when there is symbiosis between

the food and the accompanying wine. smoked ham enjoyed with an auxerrois at

the right temperature is magic. auxerrois combined with ham generates within

me a moment of warmth when i feel myself to be loved by these two products,

and i love them in return.


auxerrois goes very well with all those lightly smoked luxembourg dishes

such as neck of pork with beans. it’s a traditional dish, with smoked neck of

pork being very rustic in nature. i love this opulence, this smoothness without

it being overly sweet. auxerrois goes perfectly well with all those dishes that

require a little smoothness.

The wine-grower’s view on auxerrois

This well-known Luxembourg grape

variety has great potential for the

future. Luxembourg is also one of

the only countries in Europe to

have Auxerrois as a named grape

variety. Whereas in Alsace it tradi-

tionally comes under the Pinot

blanc designation, in Luxembourg

it has always been considered as a

unique grape variety. The terroir in

Luxembourg is rich and chalky,

and so ideally suited to the cultiva-

tion of Auxerrois. The plants are

fairly easy to work, despite the size

of the foliage in the months of June

and July. The delicious yellow

grapes, nicely ripe and very aro-

matic, produce fruity wines that

are most pleasant to drink as an

apéritif or with cheese. Thanks to

its excellent potential to mature,

Auxerrois is a wine that can easily

be stored for a few years before

drinking.

20

claude schmitz iNtroduces us to the

RIVAnERAromas: Muscat, apple, mirabelle plum,

apricot, lychee, wild peach.

21

claude schmitz, artist – Jewellery desigNer

Rivaner is quite simply great

Which of the grape varieties produced in Luxembourg is your

favourite?

although my true love is gewürztraminer and my jewellery is more

“gewürztraminer” style, my favourite grape variety on a day-to-day basis

is rivaner.

Can you describe this grape variety? Which of its characteristics

do you like best?

it’s an honest wine that is not at all pretentious and that can be

drunk every day. i love it because it has light mineral hints, very little

acidity and is just sufficiently flowery. it’s not a wine to be enjoyed only

occasionally, like full-bodied gewürztraminer, which i adore. some

wine-growers are today able to create something in a barrel that is more

complex, more flowery and more mellow and which acquires a huge

bouquet. it is even possible to enrich it with aromas in an oak barrel,

but then i don’t find the spontaneity of my rivaner. what i really like about

this grape variety is that it is a fairly simple wine, but not at all boring.

it has a frankness to it that i like. its basic quality means that it can be

tasted anywhere and at any time. i love it because it is quite simply great.



a glass of rivaner reminds me of my childhood, of old smoke-filled

cafés with their games of skittles. i come from lenningen, a small village

in the moselle region where there were lots of old bachelors, farmers

and wine growers ….they used to meet at the corner café to drink a “patt

rivaner” from uniquely shaped glasses that are hard to find nowadays.

rivaner is a timeless grape variety, although today some have reinvented

it by putting it into oak barrels. i prefer the traditional rivaner.


Do you have a particular recipe which especially complements

this grape variety?

i adore it with everyday dishes but also with traditional luxem-

bourg dishes such as “hameschmier” or “ham, chips and salad”,

the typical dish served in the evening after a wedding or a christening.

in fact, i prefer a good table wine to a bad complex wine. it’s the wine

that i always have close at hand at home, ready to taste. sometimes

i even cook with it, although the purists consider that to be a sin.

The wine-grower’s view on rivaner

Rivaner, also known as “Riesling x sylvaner” or

Müller-Thurgau, shares the fate of Elbling, its

long-term companion in Luxembourg. These

were the main grape varieties grown in Luxem-

bourg until about thirty years ago. Cultivated

since the 1920s and destined initially for the

local market, it can be considered to be the

other traditional wine of the Grand-Duchy.

Rivaner produces fruity, flexible wines which

are very pleasant to drink when they are young.

both connoisseurs and novices delight in Rivan-

er’s light and joyful personality and its attrac-

tive, musky aromas.

22

claude bertemes iNtroduces us to the

ELbLInGAromas: Pomegranate, gooseberries, fresh almonds,

lemon, mirabelle plum, physalis.

23

claude bertemes, curator of the luxembourg ciNematheQue

Elbling is a pleasant, sociable wine


i’m very fond of elbling and i think it’s a shame that in luxembourg

cultivation of this traditional grape variety has dwindled like balzac’s ‘peau

de chagrin’ since the second world war.


i love its strong character with its slightly acidulous taste. in a cinematic

context, if elbling were an actress, it would be bette davis – big mouth, very

temperamental, a bit of a sharp tongue but very courageous, the total opposite

to these “sugar babes” forged by hollywood. i view wine from an ethnological

perspective and from a sociological perspective, like pierre bourdieu, who

studies cultural and daily customs. for me, elbling is a pleasant, sociable grape

variety. it also acts as a memorial to the middle-ages, which i respect

intrinsically due to my work as a curator. there is a discrepancy now between

what wine used to represent in the past and what it represents today. what

was part of popular culture has now become part of an élite culture, reserved

for a public of connoisseurs. elbling, however, truly represents the wine of

yesterday, the source of pure hedonist pleasure. i like the fact that this wine

is not a victim of snobbery.


associate with tasting this grape variety?

coq au vin brings back many memories for me. but although my mother

always made it with red wine, i tried it with elbling. the result was even better;

there is a transparency of taste and a freshness that doesn’t come through

with red wine. this elemental but powerful wine easily withstands the

temperature test when used for cooking. by the glass, it is drunk leaning on

a bar, as i’ve always seen it done. it is an ideal accompaniment to the famous

“schueberfouer fësch”, the fried fish served every year at the “schueberfouer”

annual fair. this whole epicurean, simple and spontaneous world resists

a universe of more elaborate, conceited and sophisticated wines.

elbling is fundamentally pleasant.


its refreshing aspect makes it particularly well suited to the warmer time

of the year. it’s perfect for making “maitrank”, a drink that folklore associates

with the month of may and celebrating spring. it is based on elbling, to which

you add cognac, white port, cinnamon and orange slices. leave it to stew for

24 hours. filter it and drink well-chilled. this makes me think that intoxication

has also been banished from civilised society. in the past it was politically

correct, as it was recognised as a source of pleasure and sometimes of

inspiration (rimbaud, for instance). but today it’s frowned upon. we shouldn’t

drink any more, just taste.

The wine-grower’s view on elbling

This historic northern European grape variety

has been around since Roman times. Today it is

only planted in the Moselle Valley. For many

years Elbling was grown in vast quantities for

the German market, where it was used by wine-

growers to create their sparkling wines. It has

historically contributed greatly to the prosperity

of Luxembourg vineyards. Elbling produces

lively, fresh and spirited wines with such subtle

and flowery aromas that some people refer to it

as “Riesling’s little brother”. Low in alcohol con-

tent, it is characterised especially by its fresh-

ness and is the archetypal bistro wine.

24

domiNiQue rizzi iNtroduces us to the

CHARDOnnAYAromas: Mineral notes, muscat, melon, white fruits,

quince, apples, pears, citrus fruits, grilled almonds,

butter, brioche, vanilla, white flowers.

25

The wine-grower’s view on charDonnaY

Chardonnay is certainly the world’s best-

known grape variety due to its reputation

as a great white wine and a wine that is

produced in huge quantities in the new

World countries (Australia, new zealand,

Chile, California, etc). It is through their

impetus that it has become a fashionable

wine. Even in the Moselle Valley, where it

has been discreetly produced since the

1980s, this grape variety varies consider-

ably in aromas depending on the terroir. It

can also develop flavours of exotic fruits or

floral aromas depending on the various

slopes where it is planted. best suited to

barrel fermentation, its tannins and vanilla

aromas are easily distinguished. Chardon-

nay is a well-structured base wine that is

ideal for producing crémant.

domiNiQue rizzi, sommeliermember of the “marQue NatioNale” committee of experts

Chardonnay is a chameleon variety


chardonnay.


this variety should not be compared with the chardonnay that is to be

found everywhere else, as this is not a chardonnay that we are used to drink.

it has a very straightforward, very mineral character that may surprise more

than one connoisseur. however, chardonnay absorbs the qualities of the land;

here in luxembourg wines are nervous, vivacious, fresh but not acrid. it is

very fresh but perhaps with less volume as you would normally expect for

a chardonnay. it is this freshness that i love. yet it does not prevent the wine

having notes of grilled fruit, hazelnuts and bitter almonds. it is this vivacity that

makes chardonnay stand out from the other varieties grown in luxembourg.

although it is a recent arrival here, chardonnay can acquire a very lively

character provided one avoids, amongst other things, too long a period of oak

ageing. the wine must be vinified in the local way if it is to have a local character.


associate with tasting this grape variety?

when i think of chardonnay, i think of somewhere far away, of israel.

israel was one of the cradles of this variety, before it was brought to our lands

by returning crusaders. chardonnay is a multi-faceted variety. it can differ

greatly according to the terroir in which it is grown – sometimes vivacious,

sometimes voluminous, smooth, sensual, suave. i love this chameleon aspect,

which can adapt to each terroir, to each vinification and which each time

produces an individual essence and taste. to appreciate chardonnay we must

respect this local identity. this chameleon nature means chardonnay can appeal

to a very diverse range of clients, from those who are looking for straightforward

enjoyment of wine rather than any great complexity, to connoisseurs who will find

in chardonnay a greatness and a complexity that will lead them to explore this

world of such differing flavours.


luxembourg has excellent freshwater fish. steamed pike-perch with

a little fennel tip to bring out the flavours goes extremely well with chardonnay.

it is best to avoid textures of meat or fish that are too fatty and go instead for

more simply prepared fish dishes, with an element of freshness such as fennel

or artichoke in order to create the paradox that produces harmony between

wine and food. i believe chardonnay can accompany different types of food

because its freshness sets off leaner dishes.

26

fraNK & aNdy schlecK iNtroduce us to the

CRéMAnTs

27

fraNK & aNdy schlecK, cyclists

Crémants are for victory and a double source of pride


as athletes, we don’t drink much alcohol. however, crémant is very

symbolic for us. we travel two hundred days a year and of course we do not

take any bottles with us. but when we get the opportunity to celebrate a good

result with luxembourg crémant, then our pride in our victory is doubled by our

good luxembourg wines.

Can you describe this wine? Which of its characteristics do you like

best?

after hard physical exertion, its coolness is of course always welcome.

it reminds us that the hardest part is behind us and that we can now enjoy this

moment of celebration while quenching our thirst and relaxing. it’s a double joy.


associate with tasting this wine?

the actual moment of victory, of course! the celebration as a family

or with the team! uncorking the crémant is part of a ritual that we enjoy.

it follows success. it confirms success. all these after-race moments are

therefore fundamentally associated with crémant. it’s very powerful.

With which dish or food is it best enjoyed, in your opinion? Do you

have a particular recipe which especially complements this wine?

we personally drink crémant before or after dinner, or in the coach after

a race, but always to celebrate something. when we are savouring our victory,

we don’t want anything else. there’s no need for food and in fact it doesn’t even

enter our heads. at times like that everyday life is still very far away.

The wine-grower’s view on crémanTs

The appellation “Crémant de Luxembourg” has

existed since 1991. Thanks to its freshness, sophis-

tication and vigour, Luxembourg Crémant has

enjoyed unparalleled success, winning awards every

year at international competitions. Crémant is made

using a traditional method mastered long ago. As

pinnacle of quality, it requires hard work in the

vineyard and a rigorous selection of grapes and base

wines. All of the grape varieties authorised in Lux-

embourg may be used to produce Crémant. The

grapes must be very healthy, nicely ripe and intact

until they are pressed. For 150 kg of grapes, a max-

imum authorised of 100 litres of must can be

obtained, which then undergoes initial fermentation

in a vat. The second fermentation takes place

directly in the bottle. A minimum maturation of nine

month on the lees is required. Luxembourg mainly

produces Crémant brut. Crémant may be produced

from a single grape variety or from a blend of several

grapes, as vintage or not. All offer the perfect accom-

paniment to a meal.

28

Speciality Wines the speciality wiNes from luxembourg – the “late harvest”, “viN de paille” aNd “ice wiNes” – are successful attempts to further diversify local productioN whilst pushiNg the bouNdaries of viNificatioN techNiQues.

They comply with specific regulations in

terms of minimum natural alcoholic strength

by volume (indicated by Oechsle degrees), grape

variety and grape-picking, which must be done

by hand.

Truly challenging wines given the

weather and the climate, the success of these

speciality wines depends on expertise, care,

undivided attention, plus a measure of luck.

These amazing wines with their astonishing

range of aromas and tastes are produced in tiny

quantities, which restricts them to prestige

markets.

“late harvest”. As the name indicates,

these wines originate from a very late harvest

which for each grape variety depends on the

grape containing a minimum amount

of sugar. The carefully selected grapes have

often developed noble rot, the botrytis fungus.

As the skin becomes porous, it allows water

to evaporate, favouring the concentration

of sugars and the development of aromas

in the grape. The skin changes colour and

assumes the appearance and concentrated

taste of a raisin. The permitted grape varieties

for a late harvest are specified by legislation

and include Auxerrois, Pinot blanc, Pinot gris,

Riesling and Gewürztraminer at 105° Oechsle

minimum (95° Oechsle for Riesling).

29

“viN de paille”. This type of wine is

produced from healthy grapes picked when ripe

from selected grape varieties and spread out

on racks. straw (‘paille’) was used in the past,

hence the name. These racks are placed in well

ventilated locations to allow the water contained

in the grapes to evaporate until the maximum

sugar concentration is achieved. This lengthy

waiting period of minimum two months, entails

constant monitoring and selection, with a massive

reduction in volume as the grapes dry out.

Annual production is, therefore, extremely

limited. Produced from the Auxerrois, Pinot

blanc, Pinot gris and Gewürztraminer grape

varieties, Vin de Paille has a minimum natural

alcoholic strength by volume of 130° Oechsle.

“ice wiNe”. Ice wine is produced from

grapes frozen on the vine at temperatures of

less than or equal to -7 °C. At this level of cold,

the water contained within the grape freezes

and only the sugars remain soluble. saturation

is used to achieve a highly concentrated must

of at least 120° Oechsle. Grapes are harvested

in winter under very difficult conditions such

as at night, when it is coldest and on slopes

that are relatively steep and difficult to light.

The fact that these temperatures are rarely

reached, the risk of losing everything, plus the

great concentration of the grape obtained justify

the uniqueness and the elitism of ice wine.

In Luxembourg, ice wine can only be produced

from Pinot blanc, Pinot gris or Riesling grapes.

many cellars today use these oak barrels which give wine rich aromas. the autumn sun plays a vital role in maturing late harvests.

the few frozen grapes are now ready to be harvested. a rare and very special sight that will result in truly heavenly wine.

30

Luxembourg, between tradition and modernityfor Nearly half a ceNtury, staiNless steel vats have virtually replaced traditioNal wood barrels. the maNy iNtriNsic advaNtages of staiNless steel, iN terms of hygieNe iN particular, have made them almost iNdispeNsable iN luxembourg wiNe cellars.

The vigour that characterises Moselle

wines is certainly due to the smooth inside

walls of these stainless steel vats which do not

allow much of the carbonic gas or the natural

aromas of the wine to evaporate. This unique

characteristic, a result of state-of-the-art

vinification methods, contributes towards

the freshness of the Luxembourg wines.

since the 1980s, many wine-growers

from the Grand-Duchy have been keen to work

with expert wine-makers from neighbouring

countries. Together they have perfected new

technologies which have enriched wine-growing

in Luxembourg.

Green harvests and the fermentation

of wines in barrel are just a few of the many

examples of this. Determined to remain at the

forefront of progress, Luxembourg wine-growers

try to keep up-to-date with the latest innova-

tions in viticulture and vinification.

This enables them to offer products that

demonstrate the potential of Luxembourg’s

vines in the best way possible.

However, this constant evolution is not

at the expense of an ancient tradition which

is still very much alive and rich in experience.

Are not truly great wines those which succeed

in achieving the perfect symbiosis between

modernity and tradition?

“Appellation contrôlée” in Luxembourg luxembourg’s viNeyards have evolved ever siNce the early 20th ceNtury, aNd iN particular by iNtroduciNg New grape varieties aNd levels of yield.

The question of how to ensure the

originality and quality of wines produced on

Luxembourg soils led to the creation of the

“Marque nationale” (national seal of Approval)

as early as 1935, as the state wished to ensure

the quality of local production through close

monitoring. strict criteria have been in place

since the famous “Marque nationale – Appella-

tion contrôlée” designation was created. Only

wines of Luxembourg origin that have not been

blended with foreign wine and which comply

with European union requirements can lay

claim to this designation. It is also obligatory

that wines displaying this label must have been

commercialised in bottles, and the grapes must

only have been harvested and vinified within

the national production area.

In 1959, the Marque nationale intro-

duced wine classifications with the distinctions

of “Marque nationale – Appellation contrôlée”,

“vin classé”, “premier cru” and “grand premier

cru”, with this last one being the most difficult

to obtain.

In 1988, it was the turn of the sparkling

wines, then three years later in 1991 it was the

crémants who also benefitted from their own

appellation contrôlée. More recently in 2007

assemblage wines (cuvées from indigenous

grape varieties) were also introduced.

31

from the laboratory to the organoleptic examination, test after test at the institut viti-vinicole.

representatives from all sectors involved in wine production and consumption (from wine-growers, cellarmen, wine merchants, hotel and restaurant owners, café proprietors and consumers to the representatives of the ministry of agriculture) make up the marque Nationale committee of experts.

Luxembourg, between tradition and modernityfor Nearly half a ceNtury, staiNless steel vats have virtually replaced traditioNal wood barrels. the maNy iNtriNsic advaNtages of staiNless steel, iN terms of hygieNe iN particular, have made them almost iNdispeNsable iN luxembourg wiNe cellars.

33

THE WInE ROuTE“Drinking wine is like drinking the spirit of genius.”

Charles baudelaire, French poet 1821-1867.

so not only does Luxembourg wine pay tribute to its native land,

when mature it also plays its part in that special joie de vivre which

is so characteristic of the entire Moselle Valley.

soils aNd climate 34wiNe – a meaNs of celebratioN 35the moselle valley 36

34

the ancient cultivation of wine has preserved the local fauna and flora.

most of the vines in the moselle valley are located 150–250 metres above sea level.

With an annual average rainfall of 725 mm,

spread out over the entire year, and one

or two degrees Celsius above the national

average, the Valley’s micro-climate is ideal for

wine-growing. The climate zone is temperate,

with both a maritime and a continental influence

which gives moderate winters, temperatures

that are rarely too high in summer and tempera-

ture ranges that do not vary widely.

As far as the composition of the soils

is concerned, there is a clear distinction

between the north and the south of the Valley,

which can easily be discerned when tasting

the wines. In the north, the district of Greven-

macher is characterised by its limestone rock.

The soils are a mixture of dolomitic clay and

pebbles. The valley is narrower and the slopes

are steep. The wines produced in this region

are racy and elegant. In the south, the land-

scape of the district of Remich is completely

different: the valley widens out, the hills are

rounded and the slopes are softer. The soils are

rich in clay on a substratum of Keuper marl.

This type of terroir produces more mellow and

more harmonious wines.

A trip to sample the latest vintages from

Easter onwards is an excellent pretext for

visiting the Grand-Duchy, or why not come

in early summer and enjoy the spectacle of the

valley of the vines in flower, or even take part

in the grape harvest when autumn comes

around. For each season, there’s a reason.

Soils and ClimateiN the middle ages, viNes were cultivated across the eNtire couNtry as a result of the proliferatioN of moNasteries aNd other religious ceNtres. over the ceNturies, variatioNs iN the climate gradually limited productioN to the moselle valley.

35

Wine – means of celebration“Quality of wiNe is measured by Joy” said the freNch actor fraNçois cluzet. No problem – the graNd-duchy’s wiNes are up for the challeNge.

between picturesque wine festivals and

special events, opportunities abound to measure

the happiness which tasting these local crus

brings to the people of Luxembourg. Fountains

filled with wine, tables with colourful tablecloths

laden with food, and the happy peals of laughter

of those lovers of good wine – there is constant

proof of how proud and satisfied these wine growers

and their neighbours are. And thanks to a lively

tradition, these popular festivals continue

to attract to the region both the simply curious

and also lovers of good food and wine who will not

hesitate to travel across the country to take part.

Outside the Moselle Valley, exploration is

a little more intimate. In the shade of a restaurant

with cosy lighting or even propping up a bar

in a café. but the aim is the same - to discover

the wines of the vintage.

The wine growers have understood this

perfectly. This curiosity just keeps on growing.

Tastings in specially equipped cellars are

increasing. Private and professional evening

sessions are gaining in popularity, to the great

delight of the wine growers who are pleased to use

these opportunities to share the fruits of their

labours. If yesterday’s wine consumption was

a daily ritual, today it is accompanied by a whole

new wave of social ceremony. Let’s get the party

started!

filled straight from the barrel, these small traditional glasses set the pace at popular festivals in many wine-growing villages.

the good weather signals the start of the many garden parties.

36

The Moselle Valleythe moselle river caNal was built iN 1964 aNd the viNeyard valley exteNds for 42 Km betweeN scheNgeN iN the south, famous for the sigNiNg of the europeaN treaty, aNd wasserbillig iN the North.

And flowing through the centre of the

Valley is, of course, the river Moselle, which runs

peacefully between Germany and Luxembourg,

marking the frontier between the two countries

that was agreed at the Congress of Vienna

in 1815.

It is possible to travel along almost the

entire length of the valley without leaving the

Route nationale and for the most part, running

alongside neighbouring Germany. This gives the

opportunity to pass through several localities

and small traditional villages which owe much

of their charm to a vine cultivation that has

been deeply ingrained in these places and

lifestyles for several centuries.

The Moselle is one of Luxembourg’s main

tourist destinations for several reasons.

In addition to its magnificent vineyard land-

scapes and clement temperatures, it represents

more than any other region in the country the

national “dolce vita”, where hedonism flourishes.

Food lover or food expert, sporty or lazy, or quite

simply curious and eager for adventure, there

is something here to suit every taste.

A complete network of marked footpaths

has been created enabling walkers to discover

the region on foot, by bike or even on horseback.

In the summer the River Moselle sees an

increase in river traffic. Pleasure boats join the

barges which travel up and down this important

waterway leading to the Rhine and down to the

north sea. And why not benefit from the grape

harvesting period to discover this little corner

of paradise?

the towers of schengen castle announce this famous little village.

37

green geometric slopes or imaginary landscapes, each season leaves an impression on the moselle valley.

37

38

A few figures

39.5 %

since the land consolidations, which led to a better distribution of the grape varieties

being planted, 39.5 % of the wine-growing area has been dedicated to the cultivation

of Auxerrois, Pinot blanc and Pinot gris. Riesling vines occupy 12.3 %.

There has been a reduction in the cultivated area for Rivaner (28.5 %) and Elbling (8.9 %).

Pinot noir is increasingly popular and now represents 7.4 % of the vineyards.

saint Laurent was reintroduced in 2004.

1,289

Luxembourg’s wine-growing area covers an area of 1,289 ha of which 1,234 ha

are in production. This has diminished in size since the early 1990s due to a policy

of abandonment of wine-growing land, generally located at the extremity

of the wine-growing area and mainly unsuitable for producing quality wines.

6Luxembourg is the 6th smallest country

in the world and the only Grand-Duchy in

existence.

1818 wine festivals take place each year

in the Luxembourg Moselle region.

2000Vines have been cultivated in

Luxembourg for nearly 2000 years.

4545 gold medals were won

by Luxembourg wines in international

competitions in 2007.

6,444,700 6,444,700 vines are planted

in Luxembourg.

82

82 km long from north to south

and 57 km wide from east to west:

These are the dimensions of the

Grand-Duchy of Luxembourg, which

boasts a wine-growing area of 2,586 km²

(999 square miles).

66 %

66% of Luxembourg production

is exported to belgium, making it

the largest importer of Luxembourg

wines (Germany 28 %, France 5 %,

other countries 1 %).

this project has been co-financed as part of the leader+ initiative by the eaGGF, the ministry of agriculture, viticulture and rural Development of luxembourg and the municipalities of miselerland.

Published by the ‘commission de Promotion des vins & crémants de luxembourg’ www.vins-cremants.lu

copy: romina calò

Photography: andrés lejonathe photographs on pages 28, 29 on the right, 35 on the right and 37 are by carlo rinnen

concept & layout: a | part, luxembourg

Printed by: imprimerie centrale, luxembourg

with special thanks to the minister of agriculture, viticulture and rural Development Fernand Boden, the secretary of state for agriculture, viticulture and rural Development Octavie modert, marc weyer, Gilles estgen and Philippe eschenauer of the leader + miselerland, romina calò, andrés lejona, thierry corona, claude Bertemes, thorunn egilsdóttir, léa linster, enrico lunghi, Dominique rizzi, Frank and andy schleck, claude schmitz, carole tompers, François valentiny, raymond weydert, christiane Blum, Jeannot Bonifas, serge Fischer, marc Kuhn, andré mehlen, Jean-Paul risch and Jerry scheuer from the ‘institut viti-vinicole’, romain Batya, abi Duhr, claude Gaasch, Josy Gloden, elisa Kern, andré Klein, ruth latin-Herber, Jonathan lyddon, romain mondloch, claude moyen, Dan neven, carlo rinnen, tom schumacher, anne tarin, members of the ‘commission de Promotion des vins & crémants de luxembourg’ and the ‘Fonds de solidarité viticole’ and all luxembourgish vintners.

Fichier à imprimer, verso (3mm inclus)

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