Letter to rockfax

7/28/2019 Letter to rockfax

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‘ Pete,

just read about the RF guide. I was a bit surprised when RF announced their guide last week and thought it was a massive

piss take given what they'd said before about definitive guides.

Rockfax’s approach to the NW lime has been f-ing dodgy, but they've always been like that. They published a shit Cheshire

sandstone section in their Western Grit guide, full of errors … they only had to actually visit the crag to see that the

"problems" they listed were nigh on 8 metres high and clearly not V7. They could have even actually spoken to locals to

discover that the lines hadn't been climbed yet. Anyway, that's not the point of my mail - Thanks to all of you for the

bolting work over the years, it's really appreciated by a lot of people so please don't be too demoralised by the cockfax bollocks. B’



..

‘ Whilst I am in no way suggesting that there has been any underhandedness by RockFax, it's interesting to read this and

think back to the publication of the bouldering in the Western Grit guide which strangely contained the same grade errors

as some of my guides before I updated them. Mysterious. G’

..

‘The GU select is an excellent guide, widely appreciated by people. There's no need for another select guide. It's simply

greed from Rockfax, or perhaps a cynical attempt to tread on GU's toes. B’

..

‘We don't need another North Wales select guide. We've got an excellent one put together by a local publisher who's

struggling along but still churning out quality guides. There has been a lot of quality work around here over the last 4/5

years sorting out the limestone crags like The Diamond and the Great Orme crags. This has been sorted by bolt fund

volunteers and resources so it galls me that the bolt fund guide is going to have competition from Rockfax who have done

diddly squat for the area. C ’

..

‘ They are scum. I remember seeing them script checking for the new Peak bouldering guide at Raven Tor quite openly

walking around with a copy of the Vertebrate guide in his hands.

When quizzed he admitted what he was doing and answered "I want to make sure there aren't any mistakes"

Truly beggars belief.CH’

..

‘ Strangely the same happened with the David Munilla Andalucia guide where wrong grades ( 6a+ but it's actually 7a for

example ) ended up in the Rockfax.

Must be a coincidence. BI’

..

‘ I certainly would not be buying the Rockfax North Wales select guide which I think is a ludicrously pointless idea given how

good the Ground Up NWR select guide is.

Emotive issues aside, if those route numbers are correct, that is a shocking skew towards definitive Orme coverage and a

complete imbalance in select guide focus and I would very much like to see Rockfax justification for that. F’

..

‘ Trying to capitalise on un-fully documented area's when the definitive guide has been publicly in the making for 3 years,

due out so soon and is actually giving everything back to the bolt fund...

Fairly obvious what they are trying to achieve with their quick to be released "selective" guide

Hopefully people will buy the right one... I know I will. L’

..

‘ Seems cynical, devious and underhanded to me. Unless Alan is prepared to justify his actions. Hope this isn't spiteful or

vindictive due to the reasons given above. SC’

..

‘ Also good work on the rockfax email. I'm with you 100% on that one. Hopefully they will amend it, why they feel the need

to bring out a select guide at all is beyond me L’

..

‘ Words fail me for the depths those fuckers will sink to. J’

Letter to rockfax

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