Gastronomy of Irleland
Embed Size (px)
Transcript of Gastronomy of Irleland
7/30/2019 Gastronomy of Irleland
CORKS COASTALFOOD TRAILS
7/30/2019 Gastronomy of Irleland
C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S 3
FANCY A GREAT BREAKFAST OF ORGANIC FREE RANGE
EGGS, LOCALLY PRODUCED BACON AND SAUSAGES AND
BUTCHERS BLACK PUDDING? HOW ABOUT A FEAST
OF FISH, FRESH FROM THE WATERS OF THE ATLANTIC?
WHATEVER YOUR CULINARY PENCHANT, YOULL FIND
IT ALL IN CORK. HERE IS IRELANDS FLAGSHIP FOOD
REGION, WITH A GOURMET REPUTATION AMONG THE
FINEST IN EUROPE.
Corks ood revolution set its roots in West Cork. The rst
artisans, oten blow-ins, were the true Rebels o the
county. Now the area has an array o armers, growers,
charcutiers, sh smokers and bakers. The international
Slow Food movement began in Ireland when the rst
convivium set up in the region ten years ago and has since
spread to Cork City, East Cork, and throughout the country.
West Cork certainly led the way, but now the whole o Cork
county is rich with artisan and specialist produce.
THE INTERNATIONAL SLOW FOOD MOVEMENT BEGAN IN IRELAND WHEN THE FIRST CONVIVIUM SET UP IN THE REGION TEN
YEARS AGO AND HAS SINCE SPREAD TO CORK C ITY, EAST CORK, AND THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY. WEST CORK CERTAINLY LED
THE WAY, BUT NOW THE WHOLE OF CORK COUNTY IS RICH WITH ARTISAN AND SPECIALIST PRODUCE.
7/30/2019 Gastronomy of Irleland
4 C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L 5
FOOD IS AN ESSENTIAL MIX OF CORK LIFE, THIS VIBRANT
CITY WELL KNOWN FOR MUSIC, THEATRE, LITERATURE
AND SPORT HAS A TREAT IN STORE FOR THE CULINARY
TOURIST. THE ENGLISH MARKET IN THE HE ART OF THE
CITY IS A MUST FOR FOODIES. IN RECENT YEARS THERE
HAS BEEN A RESURGENCE OF INTEREST IN FINE FOOD
AND IN WHOLESOME AND ORGANIC PROVISIONING.
THIS RENEWAL OF INTEREST AND THE WIDESPREAD
ENTHUSIASM TO ESTABLISH HIGH FOOD STANDARDS
FOR RESTAURANTS, SHOPS AND MARKETS MIRRORS THE
PIONEERING SERIOUSNESS AND PROFESSIONALISM OF
THE CITYS 18TH CENTURY BUTTER MERCHANTS.
Begin at Tourist Ofce, Grand Parade
Turn let and cross the street at the pedestrian lights.Continue over the Nano Nagle ootbridge and turn right.On your let is the Quay Co-op Organic & WholeoodShop. This workers co-operative carries a range o organicwines, organic cosmetics, supplements, herbal remediesand essential oils. Fresh organic ruit and vegetables aredelivered every Monday, Wednesday and Friday and the in-house bakers provide a range o resh breads, rolls, cakesand savouries daily to the shop and restaurant (locatedupstairs). All specialist dietary requirements are catered torom gluten ree to vegan this is a must stop or anyonewho has specic needs or or those who enjoy wholesome,healthy ood.
Exit the shop and turn let. At the bridge take a right, whichwill bring you down South Main St., one o the principal
streets in medieval Cork where t raders and sellers wouldhave brought their wares. On your let you will noticea Tudor style building, once the site o the Beamish &Crawordbrewery which was ounded in 1792. This sitewas used or brewing since at least 1650 and possibly asearly as 1500. Beamish stout remains very popular withCorkonians.
Continue down South Main St. where you will come tothe junction oWashington St. This is a popular area orevening entertainment and restaurants such as Irelandsamous Ca Paradiso (Tel: 021 4277939), a specialistvegetarian restaurant with an emphasis on seasonalproduce which is located urther down the street on yourlet at 16 Lancaster Quay. The street has other awardwinning restaurants such as Liberty Grill (32 WashingtonSt. Tel: 021 4271049), and nearby Fenns Quay(Fenns Quay,Tel: 021 4279527) as well as numerous coee shops.
Crossing Washington St. continue d own South Main St. Onyour journey you will notice a number o bronze plaques onthe ootpath which are a reminder o the numerous laneswhich once deviated o this main medieval thoroughare.Take a right at Castle street which will bring you to the
junction o Cornmarket St. Just beyond this junction, on26 Paul St. is The Natural Foods Bakeryon your let whichserves resh bread, sandwiches and cakes; handmade withnatural ingredients supplied rom local producers. Theirbakery shop is located on the Pier Road in Blackrock, asuburb just east o the city.
Cornmarket Street, popularly known as The Coal Quay,has many buildings that have been renovated and now
house popular bars and restaurants which come alive in theevenings. The streets ormal name derives rom the 18th
century corn market that once stood at its Castle Street end.Markets are part o the lie and history o this street. Until the1960s, the street was a ood and clothes market, run by theshawlies who were women dressed in the traditional Irishblack shawl. The street market survives and is at its busiest onSaturdays (9am - 3pm).Continuing down Cornmarket St. you will come to a ootbridgewhich spans the northern channel o the river Lee. Cross thisbridge and turn let onto Popes Quay. Coming to BrownsSquare, you will turn right up Shandon St. I you were tocontinue along the quay you would nd the Franciscan WellBrewery(Tel: 021 4210130 www.ranciscanwellbrewey.com)on North Mall. A Franciscan riary ounded in 1229 oncestood in this area. A nearby well, legend has it, was said tohave curative properties and the brewers now draw on this toproduce their chemical, additive and preservative ree Larger,Ale, Stout and Wheat Beers.Shandon Street is one o the oldest continuously inhabitedparts o Cork City and ormed the link between Cork and therich agricultural land to the north o the city. As you walkup Shandon Street, youll pass the many ood and outlet
stores rom various countries across the world. This area wasonce the main cattle market or the city. Butchers, coopers,tanners and shoe and brogue makers were among the tradesprominent in the area. Modern Shandon Street remains avibrant trading street, combining 19th century b uildings with21st century lie.St Annes Church can be seen at the top o Church Street.Beloved o Cork people, the pepper pot steeple is a olksymbol or the city. Known in Cork, as the our aced liar the
T R A I L O N E :
Cork City Food & Drinks Trail
7/30/2019 Gastronomy of Irleland
our clocks which adorn the steeple are rarely in harmony,announcing our dierent time readings.
Down the street on the right rom St Annes is The ButterExchange, which was a commercial phenomenon; the largestbutter market in the world or much o the 19th century,selling Irish butter to ve continents! It was the butterindustry which built the prosperity o Cork. Today, the CorkButter Museum re-tells this story. Beside the Exchange isthe 1855 Firkin Crane building. The Firkin Crane was used bythe Butter Exchange to wash and weigh (crane) the butter
barrels (rkins). Its distinctive rotunda shape was createdto gather rainwater rom the roo. Today it is a cultural anddance entertainment venue.
At the Firkin Crane, take a let down John Redmond St.On your right you will notice Linehans Sweet shop (37A
John Redmond Street Tel: 021 4507791). Linehans havebeen supplying Cork or generations with old-ashionedboiled sweets such as clove rocks, butter nuggets and appledrops. Continue down John Redmond Street and take a letat Camden Quay. The river Lee is the second largest riverin Ireland and Cork Harbour is one o the largest naturalharbours in the world which acilitated the importing andexporting o goods and today it is still a busy workingport. In the 17th and 18th centuries merchant amiliesenergetically developed the city, many became prosperousand infuential: they were known as merchant princesand traded goods such as wine, butter, whiskey, etc. Manywere well-educated, philanthropic and possessed a prideand condence in Cork. They greatly contributed to thedevelopment o the city and their memories remain in streetnames and buildings such as the Craword Art Gallery.
Cork Coee Roasters is located on Bridge St. to the leto Camden Quay. It is an owner operated gourmet coeecompany specialising in small-batch coee roasting andespresso preparation on traditional machines, using methodshoned over the years. Their master roaster selects t hehighest quality Arabica beans to create their unique blends.All their coee is hand roasted and blended to order.Along this street are a number o popular eateries such asthe Boqueria (tapas restaurant Tel: 021 4559049) and Star
Anise (contemporary Tel: 021 4551635); Isaacs (traditionalIrish with international infuences Tel: 021 4503805) is locatedon MacCurtain Street. There are also numerous bars in the area;some o whom play traditional music.
Cross over Patricks Bridge and take a right down Lavitts Quayuntil you come to Emmet place on your let which is thelocation o Cork Opera House and the Craword Gallery. EmmetPlace was once a dock servicing the citys ocean-going trade.Having browsed the collection at the gallery, you could popin or a bite in the Craword Gallery Ca (Tel: 021 4274415)which is run by those involved in the Ballymaloe House &Cookery School in East Cork.Leaving the gallery, take a right a nd cross over Academy St. andinto Paul St. This area to your let is known as the HuguenotQuarter. The Huguenots, who settled in Cork in the 17thcentury, built their church here in French Church St. and today
you can see the remains o their restored graveyard in CareysLane. The area around Paul St. has many interesting caes,boutique stores and attracts many street preormers. In FrenchChurch St. is OConnail Chocolates. Casey OConnaill, rom hisstore in Carrigaline (just south o the city), produces trufes,bars, novelties, seasonal treats, cooking and drinking chocolateall o which are available here in his city centre store.Walking down French Church St. enter Patrick St. or Pana asit is more locally k nown. The great thoroughare o PatrickSt. the lieblood o the city, began lie as a waterway; it wasonly covered over in the ea rly 19th century. Meeting underMangans Clock was a amous tradition or young couples. Takea right and walk down Pana until you come to the junction oPrinces St. on your let. Down this street, you will notice thered brick building on your right which is one o the entrances to
The English Market. Indeed, Oliver Plunkett St. ( next junction)and the streets deviating rom it are well known or bothshopping and entertainment. There are numerous pubs andgreat restaurants in this area serving local produce such asLes Gourmandises (Tel: 021 4251959, 17 Cook St.), Jaccques(Tel: 021 4277387, Phoenix St.), Nash 19 (Tel: 021 4270880,19 Princes St.), Market Lane (Tel: 021 4274710, 5&6 OliverPlunkett St.), The Ivory Tower(Tel: 021 4274665, The ExchangeBuildings, Princes St.) and Jacobs on the Mall (Tel: 0214251530, 30A South Mall).
6 C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S 7
THE BUTTER EXCHANGE...WAS THE LARGEST BUTTER
MARKET IN THE WORLD FOR MUCH OF THE 19TH CENTURY
SELLING IRISH BUTTER TO FIVE CONTINENTS...
7/30/2019 Gastronomy of Irleland
8 C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S 9
The English Market, an indoor market (Mon - Sat 9am -6pm), is a Victorian wonderland o exciting local produceand imported goods. Operating since 1788, English buyerscame here to purchase goods. In the early days onlyProtestants could hold stalls in the English Market and theproduce on sale was usually too dear or the poorer classeswho made up the bulk o the population o the city. Therebuilding o the Princes Street Market ollowing a rein 1980 boosted condence or a time and the arrival othe new traders in the mid 1990s brought a vibrancy anddiversity to the Market that was crucial to its survival MrBells, Iago, On the Pigs Back and the Real Olive Company.This is a place o commerce, but also a civic space, ownedby the corporation on behal o the citizens o Cork. A mixo traditional Cork are and exciting new oods rom aar,and long standing amily run stalls contribute to the uniqueappeal o this market.Some traditional Cork oods available are:
Drisheen a type o blood sausage or pudding madewith a mixture o sheeps and bee blood. Heat it in milkor water, skin it, pepper and serve with bread and butter.Otherwise sliced and ried. Believed to be good orinvalids, people with delicate stomachs and no teeth!
Tripe Bee tripe is the most common and is the frststomach or rumen o an animal. It is cut into small piecesand cooked in milk or up to two hours. Served in a saucewith milk and onions, well seasoned with salt and pepperand sometimes drisheen. A. OReilly Butchers in themarket are now the only suppliers o drisheen and tripein Ireland.
Pig Oal Bodice is the rib cage sold as cured or saltedor boiling;The ribs are sold as roasted spare ribs (lesspopular traditionally);the skirt is the diaphragm and isstewed with pigs kidneys;Crubeens are pigs trotters boiled or three hours and popular as snack oods, oteneaten cold at ootball or hurling matches.
Spiced Bee traditionally eaten at Christmas.Marinated or cured in salt water with a mixture o herbsand spices such as all spice, cinnamon, nutmeg and
ginger. Then boiled. Became popular in the 18th centurydue to trading with distant ports.
Buttered Eggs Buttering was a traditional methodo preserving eggs and keeping them resh or up to sixmonths and sometimes longer. Couldnt be eaten duringLent, plentiul during summer but not so much duringwinter, so buttering became a way o preserving them.
Battlebord Dried salted ling, a large Atlantic fsh othe cod amily. Cheap and plentiul ood and oten eaten
during Lent and on Fridays. In its preserved state, it is stiand hard. Soaked overnight to re-hydrate it and thenboiled in water or milk with onions. Not as popular todayas it was associated with asting and penance.
Above extracts rom Serving a City - The Story o CorksEnglish Marketby Diarmuid ODrisceoil & Donal ODrisceoil.
I all this ood is making you hungry, why not purchaseor sample the produce in the sandwich and ood stalls orupstairs in the Farmgate Ca (Tel: 021 4278134).
Leave the English Market through the Grand Parade exit;turn let which will bring you to the tourist oce romwhere you began your walk.
Food markets are set up along the streets during the maincity estivals such as St Patricks Festival, Cork Midsummerand Christmas. You can also sample and purchase localproduce in the armers markets in the suburbs (Blackrock(Sun 10am - 1pm), Mahon Point Shopping Centre (Thurs10am - 2pm), Douglas (Sat 9.30am - 2pm).
One o Corks Master bakers is Declan Ryan rom ArbutusBreads in Mayfeld (north o the city). His produce canbe sampled and purchased at On the Pigs Back, EnglishMarket as well as the armers market at Mahon PointShopping Centre. They would be happy to show you t heirbakery but please phone ahead as visiting times are onlyby appointment. (Unit 2b Mayeld Industrial and ScienticPark, Mayeld, Cork Tel: 021 4505820 email: [email protected]).
C O R K C I T Y F O O D & D R I N K S T R A I L
01 Quay Co-op Organic&
02 Beamish& Craword
03 Ca Paradiso
04 Liberty Grill
06 The NaturalFoodsBakery
07 The CoalQuay
08 Franciscan WellBrewery
09 Shandon Street
10 The Butter Exchange
11 LinehansSweet shop
12 Cork Coee Roasters
14 Star Anise
16 CrawordGallery Ca
21 Market Lane
22 The Ivory Tower
23 Jacobson the Mall
24 The EnglishMarket
25 Farmgate Ca
26 ArbutusBreadsin Mayfeld
S T .
R I C H M O N D H I L L
F A I R S T .
G R A T T A N S T
S T . P A U L S A V E E
7/30/2019 Gastronomy of Irleland
10 C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S 11
A RICH HISTORICAL AND MARITIME LEGACY AND
A UNIQUE VARIETY OF ATTRACTIONS MAKES EAST
CORK A GREAT HUB FOR FUN FILLED ACTIVITIES FOR
ADULTS AND KIDS ALIKE. DRAWING ON THE RICH
RESOURCES OF THE SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE
AND SUPERB ATLANTIC SEAFOOD, THE FARMERS
MARKETS, SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS, AND A FINE
SELECTION OF DINING FACILITIES OFFER VISITORS A
WONDERFUL GOURMET EXPERIENCE.
Begin Cork City, Cork Airport or Ringaskiddy erryport.
Day One Carrigaline to Midleton
Travel to Carrigaline, a busy town at the head othe Owenboy River and near to the Ringaskiddy CarFerry Terminal. The town has a rich tradition in musicand culture. The annual Wren estival takes place onDecember 26th. Traditional musicians, singers anddancers in bright colourul costumes and straw suits
create great excitement and entertainment; all areencouraged to join in with the Wren Boys.
In Carrigaline, the OFarrells produce CarrigalineFarmhouse Cheese a creamy cows milk cheese innatural, herb and smoked favours which are producedin small or large waxed rounds. (Contact: Pat OFarrell,The Rock, Church Road, Carrigaline, Co. Cork Tel: 0214372856 [email protected].) I
you wish to see the cheese being made, please contactthe OFarrells in advance.
Thompsons Farm Shop is located on the road toFountainstown, Cork, just o the Carrigaline toCrosshaven Road. A beautiully renovated countrycourtyard houses a arm shop and te a rooms. A widevariety o mouth watering local produce is availablehere including award-winning cheeses, meats, home-baked breads, pickles, ice-creams and chocolates. Opendaily rom 9.30am - 5.00pm (A ghamarta, CarrigalineTel: 021 4376015 [email protected] www.thompsonsarmshop.com)
Hassets Bakery, has indulgent continental desserts andcakes, traditional and speciality breads. Choose romcrusty granary, ruit pans, walnut bread, onion bread,small and large traditional brown loavesthe list isendless. (Tel: 021 4371534 [email protected], Main Street Carrigaline)
I time permits, visit Crosshaven. This pretty villageis also home to the oldest yacht club in the world;
the Royal Crosshaven Yacht Club. The area has somelovely walks as well as pretty coastal villages such asMyrtleville. Theres a armers market in CrosshavenVillage Square every Saturday morning 10am - 2pm.On the harbour ront is Cronins Pub (Tel: 021 [email protected] www.croninspub.com) a membero Irelands Seaood Circle which has a great reputationor ood, especially seaood. It also has a large selectiono maritime memorabilia.
Rather than travelling back through the city, take the carerry rom Glenbrook, near Passage West to Carrigaloe, just
outside Cobh. Cross River Ferries (www.scottcobh.ie/pages/erry.html) operates the 5 minute erry service with dailyand requent sailings.
Cobh on the Great Island ascends rom the sea andsplendidly dominates Cork Harbour, the second largestnatural harbour in the world. This colourul town hasexperienced invasion, emigration, transportation and awealth o maritime adventures. St Colmans Cathedraloverlooks the brightly coloured town and the inner islandso the harbour, Haulbowline and Spike, are a stunning sightto behold. Cobh is also host to many cruise ships duringthe year and has welcomed many world amous ships suchas the QE2 and the Independence o the Seas. It was alsothe nal stop or the Titanic. The award winning heritagecentre recounts the Queenstown Story, which will bringto lie the history o the countrys largest emigraton portduring the Famine.
On the northern end o the island is Frank HedermansBelvelly Smokehouse the oldest traditional smokehousein Ireland. Products include smoked organic salmon,smoked silver eel, smoked mackerel, smoked mussels,etc. You can visit the smokehouse Mon Fri 10am - 4pm(Tel: 021 4811089 www.rankhederman.com [email protected]).
As you leave Belvelly Smokehouse, youll cross into FotaIsland. Fota Wildlie Park has 70 acres o historic parklandwhere over 90 species rom around the world can be seen
T R A I L T W O :
East Cork Food Trail
7/30/2019 Gastronomy of Irleland
12 C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S 13
in open natural surroundings. Fota House & Gardenshas a splendid array o regency architecture, recentlyrestored, and their gardens and arboretum are worldrenowned. The island is also home to Fota Island Resortand Gol Club.
In Carrigtwohill, east o Fota Island, is Ardsallagh GoatFarm. This is a amily run business that makes highquality, handmade, natural dairy products includingbottled goats milk, goats cheese, and goats yogurt
([email protected]; [email protected] Tel: 021 4882336). I you would like to visit thearm then please contact them in advance.
Midleton is the vibrant centre o East Cork and islocated in the heart o a rich agricultural hinterland. Thisbustling nucleus is renowned or its ne ood cultureand lively pubs. Legend has it that it was here in Irelandthat whiskey was invented. Today it is home to the
largest potstill in the world and where Jameson whiskeyis distilled. One can tour the distillery and becomecertied whiskey tasters!
The Midleton Food market is one o the oldest and bestmarkets in the country which takes place each Saturdaymorning. The town also has an annual ood and drinkestival which takes place in Sept ember. It has numerousrestaurants such as the award winning FarmgateCountry Store & Restaurant (Tel: 021 4632771, The
Coolbawn), Finns (Tel: 021 4631878, 75 Main St),ODonovans (Tel: 021 4631255, 58 Main St) andRaymonds (Tel: 021 4635235, Distillery Walk) as wellas places to shop such as The Granary Store. GreenSaron is an environmentally riendly Indian amilybusiness who bring small, requent shipments o thereshest highest quality spices which they expertly grindinto authentic spice blends o immense favour, ree
rom anything articial. You can purchase their productsin the local shops and armers markets throughout theregion.
Day Two Midleton to Youghal
Leaving Midleton, travel to Ballycotton. On the way,you will pass the Ballymaloe Country House & Shop.
They have a ca where you can sample t heir are
and products rom the area. It is also rom here thatthe amous Ballymaloe relish was produced. Furtheron is the Ballymaloe Cookery School & Gardensin Shanagarry. Darina Allen and Rachel Allen, bothinternationally renowned ches, both teach their crathere in the beautiul surroundings o their organicgardens and arm.
The small port oBallycotton is legendary or its sea
angling, great harbour views and spectacular cli walk.It is also a great area or bird watching. Nautilus (28Silver Strand, Ballycotton, Tel: 021 4646768), in thevillage, is quite a popular resta urant or dinner.
At this port, sh are caught and brought to the variousmarkets and shops in the area. Ballycotton Seaoodis a amily run business located near the shing port.The company has been supplying quality resh sh,smoked salmon and sh products to the people o
Cork or nearly 20 years. Rory OConnell operates hisown cookery school with bespoke classes located closeto Ballycotton (Tel: 086 8516917 [email protected] www.rgoconnell.com Snugboro, Ballybraher,Ballycotton)
This area is renowned or its vegetables and there isnone more amous than the Ballycotton Spuds, fourypotatoes which are grown in the many vegetable arms
7/30/2019 Gastronomy of Irleland
14 C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L 15
in the area and a avourite o the locals. In Castlemartyr,you can visit the Village Greengrocer & Food Hallwho pride themselves in providing good value and thebest quality local vegetables as well as locally producedoods and ne wines. They also have a small caupstairs serving home baking and light meals (Tel: 0214667655 [email protected])
Youghal, a scenic port town, has an abundance othings to do. Golng, amily entertainment, riverboat
trips, shing and walking are all on oer. The town hasalso become a ocal point or water sport enthusiastsand adventure seekers. Activities such as whalewatching and wreck-diving are all on the menu. SirWalter Raleigh is probably Youghals most amouscitizen and he was responsible or bringing potatoes andtobacco to Ireland. The original walls o the old townare intact while the Clock Gate which dates rom 1777spans the main street. Today it has been desi gnatedboth a historic town and an Irish Heritage Port.
Ahernes Seaood Restaurant(163 North Main St. Tel:024 92424) in the town and a member o BIMs SeaoodCircle, is renowned or its seaood which comes romthe shing boats in Youghal harbour. Collins Bakery &Delion the North Main St is worth a stop to sampletheir are and to pick up a picnic to have on the beach.Outside Youghal to the East is Yawl Bay Seaood(Tel:024 92290, Foxhole Industrial Estate) who takes itsname rom Youghal Bay, pronounced Yawl, in Cork. Alovely resh sh shop operates rom the ront o thebuilding selling sh sourced oten rom Union Hall inWest Cork.
E A S T C O R K F O O D T R A I L
THE RICH RESOURCES O F THE SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE AND
THE SUPERB ATLANTIC SEAFOOD...OFFER VISITORS A WONDERFUL
7/30/2019 Gastronomy of Irleland
16 C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S 17
THE WEST CORK AREA IS SPECTACULARLY BEAUTIFUL,
STRETCHING FROM KINSALE IN THE EAST TO DURSEY
ISLAND AT THE TIP OF THE BEARA PENINSULA. THE
MAGNIFICENT LONG DI STANCE WALKS OF THE
BEARA WAY AND THE SHEEPS HEAD WAY ARE WELL
KNOWN AS IS THE POPULAR WALK OF THE SEVEN
HEADS. MIZEN HEAD, THE MOST SOUTHERLY POINT
IN IRELAND, IS AN AREA OF BREATHTAKING SCENERY.
THE ISLANDS OFF WEST CORK ARE NOW PROVING
TO BE A MAJOR ATTRACTION THEY INCLUDE OILEN
CHLIRE, AN IRISH SPEAKING ISLAND, SHERKIN
ISLAND, HEIR ISLAND, WHIDDY ISLAND, BERE ISLAND
AND DURSEY ISLAND WHICH IS ACCESSED BY THE
ONLY OPERATIONAL CABLE CAR IN IRELAND.
West Cork is known or its excellent ood. Irelandsood revolution in act began in West Cork and the
international Slow Food movement arrived here in1998. There is a wide range o restaurants throughoutthe area, many o which now carry the Fuchsia Brandsymbol o quality. The Fuchsia brand is a quality brandor ood, tourism and crat rom West Cork.
Day One Cork to Rosscarbery
Leaving Cork, take the N71 and R607 to Kinsale.
Kinsale is reputedly Irelands Gourmet Capital andwith good reason. Food is celebrated in this seasidetown with its myriad o eating establishments romcosy caes and wine bars to casual bars and ne diningrestaurants. The Farmers Market takes place everyTuesday rom 10am -1pm.
Kinsales Good Food Circle (www.kinsalerestaurants.com) comprises 12 member restaurants oering adiversity o cuisine with a guarantee o quality, service,comort and ambience and o course, ne di ning. TheGood Food Circle organises a number o events andspecial oers throughout the year including A Tasteo Kinsale breaks which are available to allow thediners to try dierent member restaurants, availingo an inclusive dinner bed and breakast package. Thehighlight o the year is the Kinsale Gourmet Festival,held annually in October. Events include the MadHatters Taste o Kinsale, The New England Lobster Bake
and a Newport Knees Up.
The medieval town o Kinsale is not just about ood. Itsalso about traditional bars, beautiul buildings, narrowstreets, shops and galleries and lots o activities onland and sea. Guides can also bring you on historicalwalking tours around Kinsale. There are numerouscratspeople near Kinsale such as Adrian WistreichsKinsale Pottery Centre located just outside the town
in Ballinacurra (Tel: 021 4777758, 087 9696901 www.kinsaleceramics.com); Sara Roberts Sramics in Nohoval(Tel 021 4887423 www.sramics.com) and HilaryHales Woodturning in Summer Cove, Kinsale (Tel:021 4772010 www.hilaryhale.com). Kinsale Silver andKinsale Crystal can also be ound in the town.
Leaving Kinsale, take the R600 coastal route toTimoleague.
Just outside Kilbrittain is Casino House (Tel: 0238849944) which serves wide ranging seasonal menusbased on the nest local ingredients.
A large Franciscan Friary is located on the waterront inthe pretty village o Timoleague. In its day it was one othe largest and most important o the religious housesin Ireland. Just a ew miles rom the village is UmmeraSmoked Products. The natural favour and texture
o the Wild Atlantic Salmon, blended with careulcuring and gentle smoking over smouldering oak resensures the nest smoked salmon. In 2002, Ummerawas awarded the Organic Trust symbol or sourcing,processing and distribution o Certied Organic SmokedSalmon. Today they also smoke chicken, bacon andsilver eel. They are open rom 9.30am - 5pm Mon - Friby arrangement. Ummera Smoked Products Limited,Inchybridge, Timoleague, Co. Cork Tel: 023 8846644
www.ummera.com GPS Sat Nav: N51.6626319W8.7738981
Also near Timoleague is Lettercollum Kitchen Project.A small team o ches runs a series o cooking classesin their garden and kitchen at Lettercollum. They alsohave a store in Connolly St. Clonakilty. Lettercollum,Timoleague, Co. Cork Tel: 023 8846251 w ww.lettercollum.ie
T R A I L T H R E E :
West Cork Food Trail
7/30/2019 Gastronomy of Irleland
18 C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S 19
only inland salt water lake in Europe. It is located o theroad to Baltimore rom Skibbe reen. The waters contain anextremely interesting selection o marine lie and this is anarea o major scientic importance.
Baltimore is an historic maritime village, which is renownedor its restaurants, harbour and water-based activities. It isthe gateway to the islands o Roaringwater Bay: Sherkin,Cape Clear & Heir Islands to name but three o Carberys100 Isles.
On the way to the vil lage, you will nd RolsCountryhouse (Tel: 028 20289) a lovely restaurant whichuses home-grown, organic and local produce wherepossible. The gardens o West Cork are renowned andinclude gems such as Lisselan, Lassanroe and GarinishIsland. Just outside Baltimore are Glebe House Gardens(Tel: 028 20232) which attract a large number o visitorseach year. They also have a ca which uses ingredientsrom their organic garden. As you approach the village youwill see Caseys o Baltimore (Tel: 028 20197) on your rightwhich is part o Irelands Seaood Circle.
In the village itsel there are a number o pubs andrestaurants oering great views and entertai nment. Whynot spend some time sitting out watching the boatsand erries rom Bushes Bar(Tel: 028 20125) and TheWaterront (Tel: 028 20600); both serve good ood.
Returning to the N71, travel to Ballydehob.
Ballydehob is the home o many artists and crat workers
and the village has a collection o antique shops, galleries,bookshops and caes. The surrounding area has rich,craggy, natural beauty including Roaring Water Bay andthe Fastnet Rock. Annies Restaurant(Tel: 028 37292,Main St. Ballydehob) is a popular eatery amed or both itshospitality and its emphasis on resh, local ingredients suchas Skeaghnore Ducks reared nearby.
I time permits, you should travel on to Schull. It is a
BALTIMORE IS THE GATEWAY TO THE ISLANDS OF ROARINGWATER
BAY; SHERKIN, CAPE CLEAR & HEIR ISLANDS TO NAME BUT THREE OF
CARBERYS 100 ISLES
Continuing on the coastal route rom Timoleague toClonakilty, you will pass the village o Ring which isa small shing port, just outside Clonakilty. DeasysHarbour Bar & Seaood Restaurant (Tel: 023 8835741),part o Irelands Seaood circle, overlooks Clonakilt y Bayand the boats moored nearby.
Clonakilty is a pretty town fush with colour rom thetraditional shop ronts to the many fowers and plantsblooming along the narrow bustling streets. Close by isthe Blue fag beach at Inchydoney, the West Cork ModelRailway and the West Cork Museum. Theres a armersmarket in the town on Thursday. A ood synonymouswith the town is Clonakilty black pudding producedby Edward Twomey and available in supermarketsthroughout the town and country and o course in theirown butchers on Pearse St.
There are numerous restaurants to choose rom inClonakilty, amble around the town and make discoveriesor yoursel or try one o the ollowing; RichysBar&Bistro (Tel: 023 8821852) on Wole Tone St uses locallysourced products with daily specials written on theblackboard. HartsCoeeShop (Tel: 023 8835583) oersgreat home caking and is a avourite with locals. I itsa picnic youre looking or, then why not go to ScallysSuperValu (supermarket) who have received numerousawards or their eorts in supporting local producers.
Leaving Clonakilty, continue to Skibbereen, viaRosscarbey and Glandore.
Rosscarbery is an attractive and busy village with manypubs, restaurants and shops such as OCallaghanWalshes sh restaurant in the Square (Tel: 0238848125). Rosscarbery is also home to Caherbeg reerange pork produced by Willie and Avril Allshire (www.caherbegreerangepork.ie). Their aim is to producetheir award winning quality meat with favour which isachieved by rearing their animals at the own pace.
Day Two Rosscarbery to Bantry
Take the R597 to Glandore and ollow the coast roadto Union Hall.
This area is renowned or its sailing regattas and prettycoastal settings. HayesBar (Tel: 023 8833214) inGlandore serves great bar ood and has unrivalled viewsover the bay. The pier in Union Hall supplies resh shto the many local and regional providers. Dintys Bar(Tel: 023 8833373) in the village does tasty b ar ood.
Further on in Castletownshend is Sally BarnesWoodcock Smokery. They are specialists in productsrom slow-smoked, resh wild-caught sh which areree o any articial add itives or preservatives. TheSmokery can be vis ited by appointment only. Youmust telephone in advance. (Tel: 028 36232 Gortbrack,Castletownshend, Skibbereen).
Leaving Union Hall, travel to Skibbereen.
This town suered very badly during the p eriod o theIrish Famine in the 1840s and the Famine plot survivestoday in the Abbey Cemetery west o t he town. TodaySkibbereen is a bustling market town and there is aarmers market on Saturday mornings. The town is alsothe venue or the Taste o West Cork ood estival whichtakes place in the town in September to showcasethe best o local produce. Over the Moon restaurant(Tel: 028 22100) in Bridge St. ollows this same ethoswhere their menus are based rmly on the best o local
produce. Kalbos on North Street (Tel: 028 21515)oers wholesome and favoursome ood cooked simplyand well presented. John Fields Supervalu (supermarket)is a Skibbereen tradition; the shop has been supportinglocal producers or years.
From Skibbereen, take the R595 to Baltimore.
Lough Hyne is Irelands rst marine reserve, and the
7/30/2019 Gastronomy of Irleland
20 C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S 21
delightul seaside town built around a well protectedharbour. It is host to the Fastnet International SchoolsRegatta which attracts many visitors to the town. It isalso a great starting point or coastal walks or cycles.A armers market takes pl ace every Sunday morningin the Pier Road car park. Gwens Chocolate Shop (Tel:028 27853) on the Main St in the town is a must orchocolate acionados with interesting llings includingChinese ginger, French candied ruit and Italianpistachios. Schull is also home to one o West Corksmore amous products, Gubbeen Cheese which comesin waxed rounds in plain and oak-smoked versions. Theamily business also produces salamis, hams bacon
and cured meats as well as organic vegetables (www.gubbeen.com). Further on the peninsula is Mizen Head ;the most south westerly point in the country. The awardwinning Mizen Head visitor centre also has a ca.
Returning to the N71 towards Bantry, you will see asign on your let or Durrus village, located at the head othe Sheeps Head.
Durrus is home to the award winning cheese o thesame name produced by Jea Gill (www.durruscheese.com). The Good Things Ca (Tel: 027 61426) on theAhakista Road in Durrus takes ull advantage o thegreat oods o the region to produce tempting dishesthroughout the day and night.
Mairi Stone Ceramics (Tel: 027 62929, 087-9526022,Ash Tree Cottage, Donbeacon, Durrus, www.mairistoneceramics.com) has an interesting ceramicshop and workshop. In Cronins Forge (Tel: 027 61114Durrus) the age old art o the blacksmith is continuedand distinctive hand made decorative and practicalwrought iron products are produced.
Day Three Bantry to Cork
Bantry is a thriving market town situated at the head oBantry Bay and surrounded by some o Irelands moststunning country side with drives and walks that willtake your breath away. The town centre is very compactand hosts a country market on Fridays. This is a great
way to see and sample West Corks nest local oods,antiques, art and crats. OConnors Seaood(Tel: 02750221) in the town square has won numerous awards,such as Seaood Restaurant o the Year. It is also parto Irelands Seaood Circle. Organico is a vegetarianrestaurant located above the Organico bakery and oodshop (2 Glengarri Road, Tel: 027 51391) which sellstasty snacks and wholesome organic meals.
Just outside Bantry, and well worth a detour, inBallylickey is Mannings Emporium, (Tel: 027 50456); anAladdins Cave or ood enthusiasts. It will be dicult
or you to leave this place empty handed as the array ogoods on oer would tempt any palate.
Bantry to Bandon - Take the inland road (R585) toreturn to Cork City.
On your journey you will see countryside waiting to beexplored. There are many walking routes in place to helpyou digest the ood o the previous days and prepareyou or the next.
Dunmanway in the heart o West Cork is sheltered bymountains on three sides. It is a 17th century plannedtown and the two original triangular squares stillsurvive. A local man, Sam Maguire, gave his name to theAll Ireland Senior Football trophy. His birthplace is just aew miles rom the town and a commemorative statueis located in the town square. The Irish Natural ForestryFoundation (Tel: 023 8822823) at the Manch estate inBallineen has numerous wooded paths and riverbanks toexplore, as well as crat demonstrations and workshops.
In the next village o Ballineen is the River Lane Caon Bridge St. (Tel: 023 8847173) with serves an array odelicious quiches, health breads, salads, and dressings.
Continue east on the R586 road or approx. 7kmswhere you will take a right at the L2015 junction. This roadwill connect you to the N71 Clonakilty to Bandon road. Atthis junction take a let and approx 8kms on your let willbe Hosords Garden Centre and the Blue Geranium Ca.
The Blue Geranium Ca (Cappa, Enniskeane Tel: 0238839159) is located on the grounds o Hosords gardencentre near Bandon. Food or the ca such as beans,peas, herbs, salad leaves, tomatoes and even peachesare sourced rom their own gardens. Everything elsecomes rom the immediate locality.
Continue on rom Hosords to Bandon which wasounded by Sir Richard Boyle, Earl o Cork, in 1608.It is a large and thriving regional centre set in a richagricultural area. 7 miles rom 7 beaches the area isa game anglers paradise. The Poachers InnSeaood
Bar & Restaurant (Tel: 023 8841159 Clonakilty Road,Bandon) serves resh sh prepared condently in thesimplest o manners. The sh are sourced rom theshing port o Castletownbere in West Cork and lunch i splanned based on the sh landed that morning.
Each Saturday morning there is a armers market in thetown. It is also home to URRU culinary store and ca(Tel: 023 8854731 The Mill, McSwiney Quay).
From Bandon, return to Cork city via the N71.
7/30/2019 Gastronomy of Irleland
22 C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S C O R K S C O A S T A L F O O D T R A I L S 23
Tourist InformationCork city and county www.discoverireland.ie/ corkGood Food Ireland www.goodoodireland.ieKinsale Good Food Circle www.kinsalerestaurants.c omRestaurant Association o Ireland www.rai.ieVintners Federation o Ireland www.v.ieBridgestone Guides www.bestobridgestone.comGeorgina Campbells Ireland www.ireland-guide.comSouth & East Cork Area Development www.secad.ieWest Cork Fuchsia www.westcorkaplaceap art.comIrish Food Board (Bord Bia) www.bordbia.ieIrish Sea Fisheries Board (BIM) www.bim.ie
AccommodationHotels www.irelandhotels.comBed and Breakast Accommodation www.bandbireland.comFarmhouse Accommodation www.irisharmholidays.comHostels www.irelandyha.org www.hostels-ireland.comSel catering www.isc.ieCaravan and Camping www.camping-ireland.i e
TransportRoute Planning www.aaroadwatch.ieTrain www.irishrail.ieBus www.buseireann.ieCork Airport www.corkairport.com
MiscellaneousSlow Food Movement www.slowoodireland.comCork Farmers Markets www.discoverireland.ie/ corkmarketsEntertainment www.entertainment.ie
Disclaimer:While Filte Ireland South West have used all reasonable eorts to ensure that theinormation included in this brochure is accurate at the time o going to print,they shall not
be liable or any damage,expense,inconvenience or loss incurred by dependence upon this
inormation.Filte Ireland South West does not accept any responsibility or errors,omissions or
misinormation regarding accommodation,acilities,prices, services,classication or any other in-
ormation whatsoever in the brochure and shall have no liability whatsoever.Restaurant,product
providers,etc were selected based on their receipt o ood awards,their use o local produce and
recommendation o ood writers such as Georgina Campbell Guides,The Bridgestone Guide and
Good Food Ireland.
Some photos are courtesy o West Cork Development Partnership and South & East Cork Area
THE WEST CORK AREA IS SPECTACULARLY BEAUTIFUL...IRELANDS
FOOD REVOLUTION IN FACT BEGAN IN WEST CORK
W E S T C O R K F O O D T R A I L
7/30/2019 Gastronomy of Irleland
Filte Ireland South Westras Filte,Grand Parade,Cork
Tel: +353 21 4255100Fax: +353 21 4255199Email: [email protected]/cork