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t h e i n f l i g h t m a g a z i n e o f a i r u g a n d a p a r t o f t h e

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LAKE VICTORIA SERENAR E S O R T

A WORLD AWAY FROM THE CITYJust 15 Kilometres from Kampala and 35 Kilometres from Entebbe, on the shores of lake victoria, rests a

resort of ultimate beauty, tranquility and peace. This newest addition to the Serena family is the perfect resort to unwind and escape the stresses of city life.

PO Box 37761, Kampala, Uganda, Lweza-Kigo road, Off Entebbe road or Call +256 41 7121000, Fax +256 41 7121550 e-mail: [email protected]

The central lounge and reception The rooms and suites

Maisha Mind Body and Spirit Spa The pool and garden view

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A4_ad.pdf 4/29/10 9:26:37 AM

Welcome Aboard!

It is my pleasure to thank you for making Air Uganda your airline of choice.

My job as Airport Services Agent is to make sure your airport check-in and boarding

experience is smooth, exceptional and reliable at Entebbe International Airport.

Our ground handling customer service is dedicated to providing:

Friendly and efficient customer service from all our airport staff.•

Professional team members that can assist you through the airport processes.•

Assistance with how you can benefit from your Celestars Frequent Flyer •

Programme.

On-time, unrivalled performance. We are proud of our punctuality record (for the •

first quarter of 2010 Air Uganda achieved an average of 90 per cent on-time

punctuality across the network).

Occasionally you may experience an inconvenience or delay that is usually out of our

control, such as bad weather, which can impair aircraft fuelling, boarding of passengers

and loading catering. Even when a delay is unavoidable, we seek to minimise customer

inconvenience.

As part of our fleet plan, Air Uganda acquired a second Bombardier CRJ regional jet in February 2010 enabling more flexibility

inflight scheduling and network expansion.

The new 50-seater CRJ enabled us to introduce daily flights to Kigali in line with our business plan.

In December last year, with our sister airlines, Air Mali and Air Burkina (all members of Group Celestair) we launched the Celestars

Frequent Flyer Programme which rewards our frequent travellers with ‘free miles’ that can be redeemed for flights, extra baggage

allowance and upgrades on our two-class MD87 aircraft. This programme has become increasingly popular with our regular business

travellers. Registration for Celestars can be done on our website (www.air-uganda.com) and is very easy to manage online.

With our flexibility of up to 30-minute check-in before flight departure, we encourage our passengers to sleep or work longer but

still always arrive on time for check-in. Check-in counters close 30 minutes prior to departure to enable enough time for the remaining

preflight documentation procedures that are required for a safe and on-time flight departure.

On behalf of Airport customer services and the entire team at Air Uganda, we extend our heartfelt gratitude for your continued

support that has allowed Air Uganda to grow and provide you with an improved range of services and destinations.

So, sit back, relax and allow our friendly, caring cabin attendants to serve you while you read more about Air Uganda!

Enjoy our latest edition of the in-flight magazine which you are welcome to take home and share with your friends.

We look forward to serving you again.

Ms JOYCE KABASIITA

Airport Customer Services Agent, Entebbe.

EDITORIAL



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5 UGANDA IS TRULY THE PEARL OF AFRICAUganda offers the visitor unparalled dramatic landscapes, a profusion of wildlife and unique experiences.

CONTENTS

REGULARS

Editorial by Cabin Crew Manager

Book World

Air Uganda Flight Schedule

Healthy Travelling

Route Map

Offices

Tips for the Traveller

Crossword Puzzle & Sudoku

1

33

47

48

49

50

51

52

12 ANOTHER KENYADiscover some magical parts of Kenya, away from the usual tourist tracks.

16 WHAT’S NEW ON THE WATERFRONT Things are changing in historic Dar es Salaam with modern developments moving alongside the older buildings.

20 COFFEE FROM AGES PAST It is coffee’s social aspect that makes it so important and unique in Zanzibari culture.

22 CARVED DOORS THE KENYA COAST’S LIVING HISTORY A stroll through the alleyways of Mombasa’s old town reveals exquisitely carved wooden doors.

30 THE SHOEBILLUganda is arguably the most alluring country in Africa to birdwatchers.

36 WHAT IT’S ALL ABOUTSuccessful people give you results. Others will give you their rationale.

38 ACROSS AFRICA WITH A CAMERAFollow the journey of one of the first wildlife photographers, Cherry Kearton, on an epic trek nearly 100 years ago.

41 MEXICO WELCOMES UGANDA TO THE 9TH WORLD WILDERNESS CONGRESSConservationists are working tirelessly to rescue wild areas from being damaged to serve human needs.

44 HERE BE ELEPHANTSSome weighty advice on where to get the best sightings of everyone’s favourite animal.

Cover picture: Casting net for fishing on

Lake Victoria.

34 SUPERFOODSSome sound dietary advice for good health and a long life.

24 MOUNT ELGON A REAL WILDERNESS ADVENTUREA spectacular ancient volcano, flanked by a natural wilderness that will thrill the adventurous.

28 SLEEP? EASY!How 95% of those suffering from trouble sleeping can be helped without resorting to prescription medicines.

Camerapix Magazines Ltd Rukhsana Haq

Roger Barnard

Cecilia Gaitho

Sam Kimani Fatima Janmohamed Azra Chaudhry, U.K Rose Judah

Rukhsana HaqJenifer B. MusiimeDesire Barugahare

Publishers:

Editorial Director:

Editor:

Editorial Assistant:

Senior Designer:

Design Assistant:

Production Manager:

Production Assistant:

Editorial Board:

ASANTE meaning ‘Thank you’ in Kiswahili

is published quarterly for Air Uganda

by Camerapix Magazines Limited

P.O.Box 45048,00100 GPO Nairobi, Kenya

Telephone: +254 (20) 4448923/4/5

Fax: +254 (20) 4448818 or 4441021

E-mail: [email protected]

Editorial and Advertising Office:

Camerapix Magazines (UK) Limited

32 Friars Walk, Southgate, London, N14 5LP

Tel: +44 (20) 8361 2942

Mobile: +44 79411 21458

E-mail: [email protected]

Correspondance on editorial and advertising

matters may be sent to either of

the above addresses.

Printed in Nairobi.

©2010

CAMERAPIX MAGAZINES LTD

All rights reserved. No part of this

magazine may be reproduced by any means

without permission in writing from

the publisher.

All photographs by Camerapix unless

otherwise indicated.

5 UGANDA IS TRULY THE PEARL OF AFRICAUganda offers the visitor unparalled dramatic landscapes, a profusion of wildlife and unique experiences.

WELCOME ABOARD

5 12

16 20

22

34

38 44

30

41

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36

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Pearl of Africa

may – july 2010 | air uganda | 5

Pearl of Africa Uganda is Truly the

Uganda, the warm heart of Africa, offers the visitor unparalleled

dramatic landscapes, a profusion of wildlife and unique experiences,

Asante reports.

country focus: Uganda

>>

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This picture: Lake Mutanda is a small freshwater lake with several islands, located

in Kisoro district. It is nestled in the foothills of the Virunga Mountain Range at an

altitude of 1,800 metres (5,900 feet).

6 | air uganda | may – july 2010

Uganda, once the ‘Pearl of Africa’ has cast off the layers of its grim past and

now stands proudly lustrous. After a decade of peace the land is flourishing, the

towns and cities bustling with trade and activity, the economy expanding and the

people as welcoming as always.

Straddling the Equator in the heart of Africa, Uganda is blessed with an abundance

of natural assets. The size of Britain and lying between the two clefts of the Rift Valley,

Uganda’s terrain ranges from snow-capped mountains to lake-filled valleys, from extinct

volcanoes to highland plateaux. The country’s varied beauty is breathtaking.

Nicknamed the Breadbasket of Africa, Uganda is one of the most fertile countries on

the continent. It receives more than 2,000 millimetres (78 inches) of annual rain feeding

streams, rivers and lakes which cover 25 per cent of its surface. The resulting vegetation

– tropical rain forests, savannah scrub and Afro-alpine flora are host to an awe-inspiring

variety of wildlife including the threatened gorilla. All of this rich heritage is being jealously

guarded by the current government to retain its splendour for everyone’s enjoyment today

and in the future.

Some of Uganda’s features are outstanding. The country boasts the second largest

fresh water lake in the world, Lake Victoria, where the boundaries of Uganda, Tanzania

Uganda, the warm heart

of Africa, offers the visitor

unparalleled dramatic

landscapes, a profusion

of wildlife and unique

experiences.


Above:

Despite the constant building,

Kampala remains green and inviting.

Opposite top left:

Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, home

to over half the world’s estimated

600 mountain gorillas.

Opposite top right:

Endangered mountain gorilla.

Right:

Beautiful joyous children of Uganda.



>>

and Kenya converge and the River Nile starts its 6,400 kilometres

(3,977 mile) journey to the Mediterranean. Close to Lake

Albert in the west, the Nile waters are thrust through a 6-metre

(20-foot) gash in the rocks producing the awesome spectacle of

Murchison Falls plummeting 42 metres (138 feet).

The force of the river, harnessed by the Owen’s Falls Dam near

its source at Jinja, provides the country with its major electricity

supply and much of its earnings; both Tanzania and Kenya also

benefit from this hydroelectricity scheme.

Other commercially exploitable assets include rich sources of

minerals and metals such as phosphates, graphite, magnesite,

dolomite and limestone, copper and gold, and – potentially – oil in

the Rift Valley.

With stability restored, the people are able to reap rewards

from the country’s natural gifts and exploit their native

entrepreneurial skills. Eighty seven per cent of the country’s GDP.

The major cash crops include coffee, cotton, tea, tobacco and

maize. The natural fertility and abundant rainfall allow farmers to

produce two or even three crops a year. Future developments look

to other horticultural products such as vegetables and flowers for

export to Europe and the Middle East.

Diversity of the land is reflected in the diversity of the people.

Although there are four major groups, Bantu, Nilotic, Nilo-Hamitic

and Sudanic comprising over 33 ethnic groups, speaking over

40 languages, the people are united in their efforts to restore

Uganda to its previous posterity.

Diversity of the land is reflected in the diversity of the people



Left:

Casting net for

fishing on Lake

Victoria.

Right:

The thundering

Murchison

Falls, where

the mighty Nile

is funnelled

through a

7-metre

(23-foot) cleft in

the rocks.

Uganda has a rich history dating back 500,000 years when,

according to fossil evidence, early humans inhabited the western

Rift Valley. The Bantus have an agricultural heritage; by 5,000 BC

Bantu groups living in the west, south and east of modern Uganda

tilled the land and smelted iron, later adopting south-east Asia

crops such as yams and bananas today’s staple food crops for the

average family.

Pastoral immigrants from the Ethiopian region intermarried with

the agricultural Bantus and established pastoral aristocracies in

western and central Uganda. Nilotic nomadic groups migrated

from the north by the first millennium AD and eventually

established the dynasty of Bunyoro.

For centuries the various groups have traversed the Ugandan

plateaux, merging and clashing and establishing new groups and

languages. Out of these diverse groups developed several states

or kingdoms: in the west and centre the original Bachwezi empire,

later superseded by the centralised kingdoms of Bunyoro and

Nkore which in turn became dominated by the more cohesive and

liberal kingdom of Buganda. Buganda continued to dominate until

colonisation in the late 1800s.

In the late 1700s Arab and European traders of cloth, utensils

and guns, in exchange for ivory and slaves, were closely followed

by Muslim and Christian missionaries, explorers such as Grant and

Speke, and finally European colonialists. After innumerable political

squabbles amongst the colonial powers, Uganda eventually became

a British Protectorate in 1894.

The financially-stretched British resorted to indirect rule,

relying on Bugandan agents to administer the rest of Uganda.

This administrative legacy still has political repercussions for

modern Uganda and resentments have reverberated throughout

this century, causing much bloodshed. Ethnic hostilities even

threatened the birth of independent Uganda which eventually

occurred in 1962.

After the terrifying times of President Milton Obote and Idi

Amin, the current political situation has a healthy broad-based

government drawn from all political parties and groupings.

The government aims to achieve a more equal distribution of

power through its new constitution. And it is this new political

climate which has secured peace for the country and restored

optimism and energy to the people.

>>

Most visitors, of course, are attracted to this distinct country by its game parks, its majestic mountains and lush landscapes



On arrival, visitors are impressed by the modern, efficient

Entebbe Airport run on international standards. It has been greatly

renovated and expanded since the dramatic days of the Entebbe

raid when Israeli troops liberated the PLO-hijacked French plane.

Entebbe is only half-an-hour’s lakeside drive from the thriving

capital, Kampala, also on the shores of Lake Victoria. The capital

was once the site of a Bugandan palace where the royal impala

grazed. From this picturesque tradition the city derived its name:

Kasozi ka Impala or Hill of Antelopes. But rather than one hill,

Kampala, like legendary Rome, was built on seven. The original hill

on which British explorer and adventurer, Captain Frederick Lord

Lugard, built a fort and administrative post, is now known as Old

Kampala Hill. The fort still stands and although the government

offices have moved to Nakasero Hill, now the city centre, it is one

of the main tourist attractions of the city.

Other places of interest to visitors include the prestigious

Makere University – the first in East Africa; the National Museum

housing several cultural, ethnological and musical collections; the

imposing Parliament Buildings; Nommo Art Gallery dedicated to

local artists; the ancient Bugandan Kasubi Tombs; the macabre

Martyrs’ Shrine and other religious centres including the Bahai

Temple unique in Africa.

Kampala is one of the most pleasant cities to walk around.

Not only is it safe from muggings and pestering but the pleasant

climate and temperature, enhanced by cool lake breezes and the

green landscaped streets make it a delightful place to meander in.

It may rain most days, but the wettest and possibly less pleasant

months are February to April and October to December.

The visitor is spoilt for choice when it comes to hotels,

restaurants and cafes. Local and international cuisine are on offer

as is accommodation to suit every one’s taste and pocket. Almost

every week new hotels, apartments and places for refreshment

open their doors, making Kampala a dynamic, energizing city.

Most visitors, of course, are attracted to this distinct country by

its game parks, its majestic mountains and lush landscapes.

A trip to Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in the south-west is a

unique experience for even the most sophisticated world traveller.

It is there that over half the world’s estimated 600 gorillas live on

the brink of extinction. The park is contiguous with Rwanda’s Parc

National des Volcans – made famous by the film Gorillas in the Mist

and infamous by the murder of conservationist Dian Fossey – and

Zaire’s Parc National des Virugas. But due to the civil strife in both

these countries, gorilla viewing is more practical from the

Ugandan side. >>


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NTF.indd 1 4/14/10 3:41:41 PM



Uganda enjoys

a variety of

watersports

like whitewater

rafting (Far

left) and bunjee

jumping (Left).

Conveniently situated in the leafy, up-market residential suburb of Kololo, within 5 minutes of the CBD and close to all major embassies.

Protea Hotel Kampala is the brand new alternative in luxury accommodation, offering a variety of services and facilities. GUESTs can unwind and refresh with a cocktail on the terrace, overlooking the plush

landscaped garden.

For more information, visit www.proteahotels.com

To protect these rare creatures viewing is strictly limited.

Only small parties of adults are escorted through the forest to

the most recent viewing site.

From there on the ranger tracks the gorillas until, if lucky, the

party comes upon the gentle giants quietly munching, grooming

or socialising. Most visitors are mesmerised by these near-

human creatures; but tight rules govern visitors’ behaviour

to both parties’ benefit. Although the primates have been

‘habituated’ to humans, aggression is possible and an attack by a

210 kilogrammes (460 pounds) silverback male is a formidable

prospect. Visitors must remain quietly at a distance, making no

sudden movements. Flash photography is forbidden so 800 or

1200 ASA film is recommended to record these black-coated

creatures in their shady habitat.

Regulations also insist that visitors are healthy for two reasons.

Firstly trekking through the highland forest is physically demanding

and requires both strength and stamina. Secondly their genetic

closeness makes the gorillas susceptible to human disease – a

disease that could swiftly wipe out their remaining number.

But apart from these singular creatures, Mgahinga Gorilla

National Park is home to another rare primate, the golden

monkey and endangered mammals such as leopard, elephant

and several cat species. Twelve endemic bird groups inhabit the

park including the handsome francolin, the Rwenzori turaco and

stripe-breasted tit.

Visitors may also be tempted by guided hikes and climbs

through the park or a trip to the Garama Cave, once home to

Iron age communities.

Nearby Bwindi Impenetrable National Park – containing one

of the largest natural forests in East Africa including six square

kilometres of bamboo – offers another rare opportunity to view

the gorillas but the dense undergrowth makes the trekking more

challenging and is not to be undertaken by the faint-hearted.

However the rich ecosystem makes the effort worthwhile.

Other much-visited destinations including the lush, forested

western highlands fringed by the ‘Mountains of the Moon’. The

area boasts three lakes named after British Queen Victoria’s

sons, four national parks and several forest reserves. Each of

these magnificent parks has unique features and ecosystems:

Semuliki enjoys hot springs, averaging temperatures of 106ºC

(223ºF), providing a specialised micro-habitat for such strange

creatures as the lung fish which inhabit the mud pools. Toto

Game Reserve encompasses much of Semuliki Forest with its

lakeshore flats, swamps, dramatic forested escarpments and

wooded streams. Kibale National Park is the wettest of the

parks offering a unique moist evergreen forest habitat hosting a

profusion of primates and diverse wildlife. But the priceless jewel

of them all is Rwenzori Mountains National Park or ‘Mountains

of the Moon’. It is a land of mists and mysterious rock and ice

formations, weird overgrown vegetation, and the echoing, eerie

screeches of the nocturnal hyrax. Such are the opportunities of

this park, it takes a minimum of six or seven days to savour its

splendours.

Apart from rewarding game watching and healthful trekking

in the photogenic landscapes of the western highlands, there is

golfing at Fort Portal and swimming or fishing in Lake Saka, a

crater lake eight kilometres from the town.

Less well-known tourist sites include Lake Victoria’s 84 Sese

Islands, unspoilt refuges of tranquillity and hospitality. Untouched

by civil strife, and off the usual tourist tracks, the people are

warm and welcoming and the islands safe to explore on foot.

Alternatively the local fishermen offer opportunities for impromptu

boat trips around the islands, or bicycles are available for hire on

the main island of Buggala.

Many of the islands are uninhabited and the untouched forest

and verdant vegetation are bursting with wildlife, colourful birds

and butterflies.

But no matter which part of Uganda toured, the mode of

travel or the time of year, the visitor will be amazed by the

spectacular landscapes, the warmth of the people and the

diversity of wildlife.

Most will agree that little appears to have changed since the

1900s when Winston Churchill exclaimed in My African Journey.

‘For magnificence, for variety of form and colour, for profusion of

brilliant life – plant, bird, insect, reptile, beast – for vast scale .

‘Uganda is truly the pearl of Africa.’

>>



Conveniently situated in the leafy, up-market residential suburb of Kololo, within 5 minutes of the CBD and close to all major embassies.

Protea Hotel Kampala is the brand new alternative in luxury accommodation, offering a variety of services and facilities. GUESTs can unwind and refresh with a cocktail on the terrace, overlooking the plush

landscaped garden.

For more information, visit www.proteahotels.com


destination: Kenya

The Samburu were faultlessly accommodating. They parted

ranks, admitted me with a smile and refrained from visibly

laughing as I performed their vertical dance with all the

grace and skill of a drunken sailor.

My intrusion didn’t faze them for a moment. That afternoon

they had been hurling themselves skywards – with regular mass

perambulation to vary the pace – for long enough to have entered

into something approaching the sort of euphoric trance that I

believe is fruitfully called upon by African marathon runners. I

locked into the rhythm of their chant with my own, threw my

head back and managed a good two or three leaps before I

became painfully aware of how my kneebone is connected to my

thighbone. I would be aware of it for some days.

Living above the equator in the Great Rift Valley and Northern

Frontier areas of Kenya, where the northern desert merges

into the foothills of Mt. Kenya, the Samburu are cousins of the

better-known Maasai warriors from the south, and though they

don’t appear on quite as many postcards, book jackets, films,

photographs and paintings, are no less striking. Tall,

straight-backed, proud, strong and handsome, these cattle

herders and hunters have a highly-regarded position in a country

of 30 languages, said to have the greatest diversity on the

continent. They enlisted with British forces in World

War II and are now well represented in Kenya’s

armed forces and police.

For Peter Cadot they, and the Laikipia

Maasai people, are an essential

component of his Loisaba Wilderness

private game ranch of 150 square

kilometres, a short plane hop

from Nanyuki in Mount Kenya

National Park. A white

Kenyan of long heritage in

the former British colony,

Peter and his family have

carved out a remarkable

retreat on the edge of

the Laikipia Plateau

escarpment; one

that incorporates

a wildlife

conservancy,

a working cattle station and a luxury lodge of seven rooms.

From the decks, balconies and dining verandahs of the lodge

are views that sweep dramatically down 300 metres and out

over a compelling terrain of open red oat grass plains, acacia

scrub, and a two-river system supporting 50 species of wildlife

and – one of the largest biodiversities after the Serengeti/Mara

ecosystem – 250 bird species.

The same size as the Ngorongoro Crater and larger than many

of Kenya’s principal game parks, Loisaba is high enough for a

year-round temperate climate which actively encourages a wide

range of adventure activities – game drives, camel trekking, horse

riding, rafting, mountain biking, climbing, hiking, bird watching

and, with the aid of five-passenger Squirrel helicopters, trout

fishing on Mount Kenya, trips to Lake Turkana and the northern

deserts, and morning hilltop breakfasts. Promising that “mind,

body and soul will surely be invigorated”, the Cadots welcome

their wanderers back to the pleasant garden complex of the lodge

each evening with such enticements as a health spa, swimming

pool, tennis courts, fine meals, and a large well-cushioned lounge

with open fires and an intriguing library. Formerly the home of

Count Ancelotto, it’s hard to understand why he left.

The Cadots’ engaging 18-year-old daughter, Chala, and local

tribesman Tom Ledapus – recently shorn of his long plaited and

beaded hair on the occasion of his marriage – provided the

introduction to the Samburu village where my lower limbs were

given such unexpected exercise. Somewhat less demanding was

Glenn A. Baker investigates some magical parts of Kenya, away from the usual tourist tracks.

Another


the excursion with Peter to Loisaba’s two sets of increasingly

renowned Star Beds.

The original set are tucked away in kopje of rocks above the

vast Kiboko waterhole in one of the eastern valleys. The newer

Koija set are some eight kilometres further south, on the banks

of the Ewaso N’giro River. Reached by a suspended footbridge

from the opposite bank, these part-thatched roof, A-frame

buildings with net-covered four-poster wheeled beds (that are

placed beneath the stars each night) are cantilevered over the

fast flowing river below.

The Koija Star Beds are a joint venture with local villages,

whose red-garbed warriors not only stand guard over their

esteemed guests at night, warning off any big cats, elephants

and rare wild dogs which may have wandered off course, but also

prepare their meals and maintain their sleeping platforms.

Call it eco-tourism, call it cultural tourism, Loisaba Wilderness

represents a new front in African adventure, one gaining greater

and greater momentum. In the wake of Redford and Streep in

Out Of Africa two decades ago visitors swarmed across the main

game parks of Kenya, surrounded by ‘The Big 5’ and by almost as

many Big 4s (as in 4-wheel-drive vehicles). Today the swarms are

fewer and, while many safari visitors still make a beeline for the

destination: Kenya

>>

The Samburu are cousins of the better-known Maasai warriors

teeming herds and endless grassy plains of the Maasai Mara, just

as many are venturing further afield, to the more rugged north

and to the more specialised lodges and refuges. The overriding

desire is privacy, personal experiences, cultural interaction and

the possibility of delving into an Africa beyond just the roar of a

lion or the grunt of a hippo.

An hour or so away by light aircraft, low over mountains,

desert, lush and dramatic Rift Valley formations and some

Colonial-era plantations and farms that really do look as if they

have been painted on the lid of a chocolate box, is another

treasured hideaway being inexorably discovered by a larger slice

of the tourism flow.

The Meru National Park, also in the Northern Frontier District,

has an immediate claim to your recognition. It was in this

oft-neglected corner of the extensive and admirable Kenyan

reserve system that George and Joy Adamson raised and then

set free Elsa, the lioness of Born Free book, film and song fame,

followed by the cheetah Pippa of The Spotted Sphinx fame. In fact,

the private retreat Elsa’s Kopje – Meru’s equivalent to Loisaba –

atop Mughwango Hill was the site of the Adamson’s first base of

operations, Elsa’s Camp.

The diverse and often dramatic 870 square kilometres of Meru,

behind the Nyambeni Hills, attracts considerable praise. Leaf

through guide books and you come upon enough comments –

“One of Africa’s most beautiful national parks”, “One of Kenya’s,

and the world’s, best parks” and “Unspoilt wilderness that instills

the feeling of real Africa” – to lead to an inescapable conclusion.

Here the terrain is not only wild but the beasts in residence are

less accustomed to the human species. When sighted through

the baobab trees or doum and raphia palms they seem somehow

more special and rewarding than the jaded lion who urinates on

your back tyre and falls asleep on a track rut. Not that they don’t

present themselves – a rather strident young elephant challenged

me for road space as I was making my way to a hippo wallow in

the Rojewero River, one of the 13 that cross the park.

With habitats ranging from dry bush to forest, swamps to

grasslands, near-desert savannah to acacia groves, river to

mountain, waterfall to sudden rocky outcrop, Meru takes on the

appearance of a number of parks. It boasts some distinctive and

rare game, such as the reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, lesser

kudu, the gerenuk and the palm nut vulture. When the clouds

clear in the early morning and late afternoon the views of Mt.

Kenya can add a spectacular dimension to the visual panorama

of the day. The attraction is equally strong to both the guests of

the park’s lodges and those who buy a ticket from the gatehouse

and take advantage of the excellent network of roads to meander

about in a hire car.

Adamson had a deft touch in establishing a camp and the

builders of Elsa’s Kopje have since taken every advantage of

the prime position he staked out to integrate a classy retreat

that fits seamlessly into the rock face and takes every possible

advantage of views over Mughwango Plains. In a reclining chair

Pho

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The Kenya experience will always, rightly, include the migration

hordes in the Maasai Mara, the pink flamingo flocks by Lake

Nakuru, the Mt. Kilimanjaro view from the game-laden Amboseli

National Park, the 19th century ambience of Old Mombasa Town

and the aquatic wonders of the Lamu Archipelago. But increasingly

it is coming to embrace the more private splendours of retreats

such as Loisaba Wilderness and Elsa’s Kopje.

with a drink in hand, the setting sun on

the distant Nyambeni Hills sears into the

consciousness. A number of the rooms

are works of art in themselves, built into

and around natural rock formations, like

sumptuous caves. Only when the maid

lowers the screens in the evening while

you are off swapping day’s tales in the

lodge bar, dining room or outdoor setting,

do you attain any sense that you are in a

‘hotel room’.

Like Loisaba, there is a strong eco-

tourism ethic at play in the establishment

and operation of Elsa’s Kopje. Also a

part of the Classic Safari Camps of Africa

group, this is again ‘small and special’

with just nine unique rooms built with

materials from all corners of Kenya and

incorporating locally constructed furniture

and evocative African design. Low, yellow

lighting allows the lodge to blend into its

environment; a strategy so successful that

I learned over breakfast that a buffalo had

wandered through the kitchen and dining

area while I was slumbering in my comfy

‘cave’. The same approach is used on night

game drives, with infra-red light revealing

a multitude of undisturbed nocturnal

creatures.

Top:

The Samburu in

their habitat –

the lowlands.

Right:

Maasai Mara,

famous for its

annual migration

of Zebra,

Thomson’s

gazelle and

wild beest; a

migration so

immense it is

called the Great

Migration.

>>

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destination: Kenya

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000 024 414 652+ ro alapmak/moc.notarehS


What’s New onThe Waterfront

Things are changing in historic Dar es Salaam, with modern developments moving

in alongside the older buildings. Kate Nivison went to investigate and found that

Dar has not lost its soul.

destination: Dar es Salaam

In the misty Indian Ocean dawn, there’s something timeless

about the scene along the Kivukoni Front that overlooks one

of Africa’s finest harbours. At this hour, away from the main

build-ups of traffic into the city centre, there are still more

cyclists and pedestrians than jostling taxis, cars and buses, and

it’s still possible to imagine what this famous waterfront must

have looked like in the days when dhows ruled the waves of

the Swahili coast. Here and there between the coconut palms

fishing boats can be glimpsed setting out for the morning catch.

Early risers in the 100-year-old Azania Front Lutheran church

are warming up with harmonised hymn-singing for the first daily

service, their voices mingling with the call to prayer from the

mosques around Indira Ghandi Street. Seabirds and pied crows

raucously settling disputes over whatever has washed up on the

beach overnight complete the dawn chorus.

Purists maintain that ‘Peaceful Harbour’ is a mistranslation

of Dar es Salaam, which in fact means ‘House of Peace’. But

whichever you prefer, the illusion of peaceful timelessness

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doesn’t last long. This is East Africa’s second largest port,

and the third fastest growing city on the continent. As the sun

comes up, colours brighten and looming, bulky shapes become

clearer. The wake from a huge container ship is rocking a tiny

motorboat, and the Kigamboni ferry, already half-way across to

the far shore, seems intent on beating an in-bound oil tanker to

its berth.

The recently opened and very impressive Port Control Tower

near the local ferry terminal is one of the first buildings to catch

the sun – its construction being an indication of the way the

port has grown in the last 10 years. A new container terminal

and storage facilities on the southern curve of the harbour

have eased the congestion which once prevented the port from

reaching its potential. In fact in broad daylight, it’s clear that

many other tall buildings with a look that is more Dubai than

Dar have sprung up along the waterfront as well as in the town

centre and suburbs. The theme is blue – and the bluer the sky

the better they look. Some are hotels such as the Kilimanjaro

Kempinski with its famous views of the harbour and gardens full

of tropical blooms. Others are banks, including the twin towers

of the Bank of Tanzania, or expensive apartment blocks.

One of the most eye-catching of the new-comers to the scene

is the gleaming Utumishi building. Non-Kiswahili speakers could

mistake it for a swanky Japanese car company headquarters,

but in fact Utumishi stands for the Public Service Commission –

a newly formed government body that combines the civil service,

local government and education offices under one roof. Dar

may no longer be the capital – it officially lost that role in the

1970s to the more centrally situated town of Dodoma – but

many important institutions remain, even though the National

Assembly moved to Dodoma in 1996.

Until the turn of the new century there were few buildings

higher than a palm tree, including the High Court and Post

Office. Brick-red tiles the colour of the Lutheran Church spire,

or older pan roofing used to dominate the waterfront skyline,

but these are dwindling now, while the spires of other churches

such as St.Joseph’s Cathedral and the minarets of mosques

are being dwarfed by much taller structures. Fortunately, some

of these older buildings with their shady verandas, overhanging

balconies and wooden shutters have been restored in a nick of

time, so that the general aspect is still one where the old and

the new rub along together in a pleasing mix of styles. Possibly

there will also be some much needed renovation work on the

steps leading down to the beach itself, which was once a popular

place where families would walk, play and enjoy the sea breezes

that are a relief when the humidity is high.

There are still plenty of large spreading trees beneath whose

shade informal markets spring up all along the Kivukoni Front

from the local ferry terminal right round to the Zanzibar ferry

terminal. Between these two bustling hubs are the fruit and

vegetable sellers, and lads selling roasted maize cobs or Chinese

CDs and watches. Occasionally a coconut vendor will stop by

on his bike and use his machete to crack open his wares on

the kerbstones. Beyond the local ferry terminal is the main fish

market – a boisterous place from which all kinds of interesting

seafood soon makes its way onto the ‘bend-down’ pitches lining

the waterfront when the afternoon catch comes in. Yells and

laughter from haggling housewives and mini-bus drivers add

to the atmosphere, and cooking smells get more pungent and

enticing. The restaurants round the terminals attract whole

families in search of a cool drink and nyama choma, the hefty

traditional (usually beef) barbeque, before the ferry leaves in the

usual last minute burst of chaos – or the sun goes down.

Walk past the fish market onto Ocean Road, and it’s easy to

see why this hook-shaped northern peninsula which catches the

trade winds and sea breezes was considered a suitable location

for State House, prestigious hospitals, fine villas and the golf

course. It’s also on the way to a further peninsula, Msasani, long

noted as a place of escape from the heat of the city. The Dar

es Salaam Yacht Club is here, tucked into a sheltered bay, and

together with the nearby Slipway, it’s a venue for the sailing and

watersports crowd. At The Slipway there is good shopping and

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Above:

A panoramic

view of the Dar

es Salaam city.

Left:

The city is

situated on a

massive natural

harbour on the

Eastern Indian

Ocean coast

of Africa, with

sandy beaches

in some areas. >>

This is East Africa’s second largest port, and the third fastest growing city in the continent


waterside eating, and the whole of the Msasani peninsula is known

for the laid-back style of its luxury hotels. With names like White

Sands, Oyster Bay, Beachcomber and Mediterraneo, they look as

good as they sound, and offer not just superior rooms, chalets

and apartment accommodation, but fine dining for non-residents

and access to private beaches. Activities such as water-skiing,

canoeing, sail-boarding and kite-surfing are growing in popularity,

especially at weekends, and a new beach access road is nearly

finished. If conditions aren’t quite right for your chosen sport in one

place, it’s easy to find somewhere else where they will be near-

perfect.

Offshore are some of the best coral reef structures on Africa’s

Indian Ocean coast, incorporated in a marine park. Trips are

available from the hotels or other agencies to idyllic Mbudia island

for snorkelling and scuba diving. On Bongoyo island, camping is

allowed for a fee. Naturally, the marine park is protected from

fishing, but there are plenty more fish in the sea, and lots of

them will finish up in delicious sauces, or served as part of the

increasingly popular trend to ‘fusion’ dishes in the restaurants of

the peninsula.

When it comes to eating out, the whole city, and not just the

waterfront zone, has seen a boom in interesting possibilities.

To underline the international atmosphere, there are 16 Indian

restaurants listed in the city guide, half a dozen Chinese, and the

same number of coffee shops and fast food outlets. The rest of the

scoreboard looks like Italy with seven, Japan with four, and Thailand

and Korea with two. Then it’s one each for Portugal, Mexico,

Lebanon and Malaysia. ‘Multi-cuisine’ and ‘Continental’ account for

at least 40 more listings, so no one’s going to feel left out.

As for shopping, it depends on what you want – an authentic

Tanzanian experience, or something that feels like every big city

anywhere. For local colour and souvenirs, there is always Kariakoo,

said to be the largest covered market in Africa, where haggling is


the norm, and no one takes no for an answer. It can be quite

hectic, and a few Kiswahili phrases are a great help, but while

there are still markets like this, Dar is in no danger of losing its

soul to the developers.

That’s not to say that new ventures aren’t welcome. One in

particular, the Mlimani City Mall, has generated a lot of interest

since its opening in November 2008. This is Tanzania’s first

fully-enclosed air-conditioned shopping centre, with a lot more

besides. It is the result of a US$ 80 million investment by a

Botswana group, and the city is very proud of it. As well as

all the usual names – Shoprite, Game,

Truworths and Vodaphone and many

smaller enterprises, there is also an office

park, a hotel and upmarket residential

properties.

Indian music extravaganzas, art

exhibitions showing both national and

international works, hotel wine-tasting

festivals, new cultural centres and galleries

with expert Makonde carvings, Maasai

beadwork and Tinga Tinga painting – there’s

always something to see and do in Dar.

And in the magic hour before the sun goes

down behind the waterfront, when the cool

ocean breeze lowers the humidity and wafts

the smell of spicy cooking to your window,

you might just get a hint of why they called

it the House of Peace.

Above:

Dar offers a

range of exciting

recreational

opportunities;

swimming,

snorkeling, fishing

and sailing head

the list of active

sports.

Left:

Ferry terminal

bustle below

the Port

Control Tower.

>>

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feature

Christopher J. Varady looks into coffee drinking in Zanzibar,

and finds that little has changed over the centuries.

Coffee From Ages Past

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With a robust trading and cultural connection

reaching into antiquity, coffee is perhaps

one of the main products and cultural

elements which links Zanzibar to the Middle East. The

Arabica coffee grown on the islands has been traded

for centuries, since the time when dhows plied the East

African coast, aided by the monsoon winds. In fact, the

Swahili name for coffee, kahawa, is obviously reflective

of the shared trade in this precious commodity between

African and Arab peoples.

The age of the dhow and empires spanning the East

African coast have long passed into history. However,

the art of coffee preparation and drinking is, to this


feature

origins coffee. With African-electronica fusion music playing in

the background, it’s easy to imagine scenes of old Stone Town in

the steam swirling up from a cup of this unique coffee.

But perhaps it is coffee’s social aspect that makes it so

important and unique in Zanzibari culture. Coffee is a drink not

to be drunk alone, but rather is a connector between people and

a tool for leisure time. In Zanzibar, the bazara (a cement bench

which is part of the exterior of most homes) is everywhere in

Stone Town. Flanking the ornate wooden doors of the houses,

the bazaras served as a way to receive guests and serve them

coffee, without compromising the intimacy of the home’s interior

which was so valued in early Islamic cultures. Since its historical

beginnings, the residents of Stone Town sat on the bazaras

outside their homes to socialise in the breezes which blow on

the Indian Ocean shore in the mornings and evenings. Playing a

game of bao or cards with coffee is ubiquitious in Stone Town’s

constricted alleys. Bazaras and coffee link the home to the

community. In Stone Town today, this way of life is just as alive

and potent as it was in the days of the Sultans and dhows.

day, virtually identical in Zanzibar as it is in Jeddah or Cairo.

Interestingly enough, it serves the same purpose as well.

Coffee, like Swahili cuisine, makes use of the abundant spices

and tastes which are indigenous to the islands. Preparation

involves traditional methods which rely on adding the grounds

to boiling water and flavouring the coffee with cardamom,

cinnamon, or ginger. The coffee is served scalding hot in small

porcelain cups with a maximum dose of caffeine. Don’t look for

milk to be added, as this is not the Europeanised version of the

drink. Coffee here is strong, black, and spicy. Neither is sugar

ever added: coffee is only sweetened with kasata (a dry sugar-

and-coconut based desert) or halua (a jelly-like treat traditionally

reserved for Arabic special occasions).

Zanzibar’s two best coffee houses, Msumbi Coffee House

and the Zanzibar Coffee House, both serve coffee according to

professional standards. They are as serious about their coffee

as the best wine connoisseurs. Both use only local beans, which

are roasted and ground on the premises. The intimate setting

of both coffee houses lends itself to savouring this true-to-its-

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Left:

It is coffee’s

social aspect

that makes it

so important

and unique

in Zanzibari

culture.

Right:

To preserve the

fresh taste of

the bean, coffee

must be stored

properly.

Bottom Right:

Coffee served

scalding hot

with a maximum

dose of caffein

and abundant

indigenous

spices and

tastes.

The Arabica coffee grown on the islands has been traded for centuries


In its quest to control trade routes across the oceans,

resulting in violent wars between the Arabs and the

Portuguese during the 15th and 16th centuries, and later as

a significant trading centre, dealing in ivory, gold, species and

slaves, the Kenyan Coast became a combination of cultures of

Bantu, Persian, Arab and Indian traders, that produced unique

architectural structures, particularly the elaborately carved

doors and verandahs.

A stroll through the alleyways of Mombasa’s old town reveals

a variety of exquisitely carved wooden doors that stand infront

of many homes, a functional part of history that can be found in

many places along the Coast.

The Kenya Coast’s Living History The Kenya coast is a favourite international holiday destination with its magnificent coastline, spectacular bird sites and

stunning marine life. However, it also has one of the most powerful remnants of history in Africa, says Jagruti Asher.

feature

Carved Doors


These doors have carved designs of geometric patterns with

variable images. Many have Islamic verses protecting the

home. These are the most sought-after doors by antique

collectors.

The Omani style doors introduced by the Mazrui and the

El-busaidy Arabs are distinctive in their appearance and

decoration. “They are delicately carved with floral patterns with

motifs of lotus flowers, rosettes and date palm designs

decorated heavily with iron studs and rivets giving a rich look”.

The Gujerati style doors were introduced by the Indian settlers

in the 1840s. They have the unique feature of being built with

shutters for the sake of security for many of the premises

belonged to traders who owned shops. They are carved at the

lintel and in the middle part of the doors. They are thought

initially to have been brought directly from India, but were later

made locally.

The most extraordinary of all the doors are the Siu doors.

The decoration of these comprise floral carvings filled with lime

and red paint. The door structure has a thick frame with carved

support and huge abstracts of lotus flowers on the doors. It is

believed that this style was influenced by the arrival of Indian

traders who settled at Siu by the late 14th century. These doors

are very rarely found today and can be seen preserved at the

Lamu Museum.

The most unusual doors, owing to their structural design, are

the Lamu style doors. These doors are decorated only at the

centre post with geometric designs. They are named Lamu style

as they are believed to have originated in Lamu stone town in

the 18th century.

Kijumwa style doors are named after Ahmed Kijumwa, who

carved them between 1890 - 1920. These doors are heavily

carved with attractive and decorative designs. There are only

around 16 of these doors found at the Coast.

The contemporary Swabu style doors, are said to be designed

by Ali Swabu. These doors are attractive with styles of flowery

motifs such as sunflowers, rosettes, palm leaves and other

decorations.

The doors that have a vague appearance and variation in

patterns, as opposed to the traditional Swahili doors, are called

the contemporary door styles. These are mostly the work of

amateur carvers.

Because of the complexity and intricacy of this art, the

traditional beauty of carved doors is gradually disappearing

due to the lack of transfer of skills from the old to the younger

generation. Fortunately, the Mombasa Old Town Conservation

office is involved in preserving these pieces of art for posterity.

These beautiful doors in ancient times reflected the status

and way of life of the owners, as well as their attribution of style

and identity of the craftsmanship of the carvers.

Judging from their features, such as the complexity of the

designs and their great height and size, they were probably

made tall as a form of protection (probably due to wars) and

wide enough to allow animal carts to pass through into the

yards of the houses. These massive doors would also have been

the main opening of the house, leading to a courtyard and to a

series of patios leading in turn to many rooms.

Peculiarly enough, these doors at one time did not have any

provision for being locked from the outside as perhaps they

would have been manned at all times.

Midway up the doors, the elegant door-knockers are secured

for the familiar hodi, hodi knock.

An interesting feature of these impenetrable entrances

was that they were often double doors hinged with iron spikes

plunged into the walls to hold them in place.

Because of their great weight they must have required a team

of men to open and close the main doors. This necessitated the

addition of a much smaller door opening – basically a cut-out in

the main door – to allow one person at a time to enter or leave

the house.

The tradition of these carved doors on the Coast started with

the arrival of sea traders from India, Oman and Zanzibar and

the skills of carving the doors probably originated around the

Persian Gulf and spread to India and the nearby countries. It

is believed that the carvers’ immaculate styles expressed their

mythology, legends and folklore on wood.

According to Mr.Kassim Omar, the Acting Principal Architect

of Mombasa Old Town Conservation Office, “the beauty of these

doors has enchanted the local people as well as the tourists,”

but he also notes that “these doors are also gradually fading

away as when owners renovate their houses, they opt not to

retain the doors. Some of the doors need urgent restoration

and repairs.”

“These doors are made of hardwood such as the African

Mahogany teak, locally known as Mbamba Kofi. “Mombasa

has around 200 of these doors and Lamu over 350,” explains

Mr.Kassim. In all he notes that “many styles of carved doors

are predominantly found in Lamu,” one of the oldest preserved

towns in Kenya.

The carved doors are distinguished by style, eight of which

are generally found on the Coast. The Bajuni style doors are the

oldest, dating back to the 12th century AD. The earliest doors

of this kind are to be found in Siu, a village in Pate Island.

Mombasa has around 200 of these doors and Lamu over 350

feature

Left:

Beautiful carved

doors; it is

believed that

the carvers’

immaculate

styles expressed

their mythology,

legends and

folklore on

wood.


feature

Rose’s last chance’ or ‘Rose’s first chance’ reads the

sign, depending on whether you are viewing it as

you head to or from Mount Elgon. For us, it was our

last chance to taste Rose’s fabulous omelettes at her cheap

lodgings in Budadiri before we were met by Aron, our guide,

along with James and Alex, the two porters.

Budadiri, a lovely settlement amidst spectacular mountain

scenery at 1,250 metres, is the terminus for public transport

in the form of overcrowded minibuses or matatus plying the

route from Mbale, the main town in eastern Uganda. It is the

starting point for treks up Mount Elgon, and the last place to

buy foodstuffs. We stocked up on rice, eggs, salt, sugar, and

plantains, and headed towards the mountain.

Once past the village the trail became steep, passing

through plantations of the local Bugisu people. Maize,

plantains, coffee, peas, beans, and potatoes grow in

abundance, and cattle rearing is also popular. “The soil is

very fertile, and farmers sell their produce all over Uganda”,

commented James while picking some passionfruit. We took

a last sip of water before conquering the ‘wall of death’, once

Elgon’s most dangerous spot. The passage along a series of

steep cliffs has been made a lot easier with the installation of

an iron ladder. In the past, swinging branches were not always

that reliable.

Had we known what awaited us on the first day, we probably

wouldn’t have started. Facing the steep ridges in Budadiri, we

thought it would take us two days to cross them. But towards

the end of day one we found ourselves sitting exhausted and

thirsty in high grass, having already passed the green walls,

and with worse to come. The trail continued up steep terrain,

the ground made all the more slippery by rain. James and

Aron preferred going barefoot while carrying 20 kilogrammes

plus their own cooking equipment on their backs. In the late

afternoon, having climbed a total of more than 1,800 metres,

we reached Sasa river camp at a height of just over 3,000

metres. The bamboo forest growing around the camp seemed

impenetrable, but it was pierced by a small path used by locals

to obtain forest products long before the first visitors arrived.

Mount Elgon was gazetted as a national park in 1993, having

been a forestry reserve since 1938, and it is the forth – largest

national park in Uganda at 1,145 square kilometers. The

mountain provides clear water for a fast-growing population of

more than seven million people. It is also a water catchment

area for major lakes and rivers in both Uganda and Kenya.

Mount ElgonA Real Wilderness AdventureMount Elgon in eastern Uganda is a spectacular ancient volcano, flanked by a natural wilderness that will thrill the

adventurous. Trekking to the top of the 4,321-metre peak is a testing but rewarding challenge, as Reto Kuster reports.

Mount Elgon in eastern Uganda is a spectacular ancient volcano, flanked by a natural wilderness that will thrill the

adventurous. Trekking to the top of the 4,321-metre peak is a testing but rewarding challenge, as Reto Kuster reports.

‘

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feature

Increased agricultural activities, however, are endangering the

park’s fragile ecosystem. There are other conflicts, too, which

have yet to be resolved: “we used to collect honey and medical

plants deep in the forest”, said Aron. “But in a national park,

you can’t just pick any plant

you want.”

Early explorer, Henry Morton Stanley was, in 1875, the first

person to bring news of Mount Elgon to the outside world. In

1890 Frederick Jackson, a British explorer, climbed to the

caldera accompanied by 400 men. He reached what is known

today as Jackson Summit, at a height of 4,161 metres. There

is an array of peaks looking similarly high and it was only in the

20th century that Wagagai was found to be the highest point

at 4,321 metres.

Covering some 4,000 square kilometres, Mount Elgon has

the largest surface area of any extinct volcano in the world,

and geologists believe that this broad base indicates that Elgon

may once have been higher than Mount Kilimanjaro. To locals,

the mountain is known as Masaba, after the legendary father

of the Bugisu tribe living on its slopes. Wagagai, the highest

peak, is named after Masaba’s wife in that legend.

Climbing mount Elgon is still a real wilderness adventure in a

seldom-visited area. We spotted three chameleons, perfectly

camouflaged creatures. Several species inhabit the forests of

the mountain, even at 3,000 metres. Locals fear chameleons

and believe they bring bad luck, although these reptiles are

perfectly harmless. Other creatures are

rarely seen, though there are beautiful

beetles, butterflies, and other insects in

abundance.

Mud cave camp, at 3,500 metres,

is the base for exploring the peaks.

The night was cold and rainy, but as

we set off early in the morning the sky

was bright and blue. Giant lobelias,

endemic to Mounts Elgon and Kenya,

are common at this altitude. As we

approached Jackson’s pool, a shy duiker

antelope fled in surprise.

I had wondered before why Elgon

was dubbed the ‘mountain of illusion’.

With the sudden change in weather

conditions, it became apparent why

many explorers lost their way and lost

their illusions, too. Gaining height all the

time, we continued in cold rain, walking

over rocks barely covered in moss. Every time we thought

we had made it, an even higher peak appeared through the

mist. I stopped counting the ups and downs as I continued

my almost robot-like progress, interrupted only by one short

halt for chocolate and tea. The weather made me think of

dismal European days, but the scenery was still terrific. Finally,

a wooden plate reading ‘Wagagai Summit 4,321 metres’

indicated the highest point. Tired, we looked down.

Strong wind and rainy weather did not encourage a long break at

the top, so we soon started the descent. Just as we reached our

camp, a rainstorm pounded down. March to October is the rainy

season, but “the mountain doesn’t care about seasons. It can be

wet at any time”, James put it while warming up at the campfire.

The next morning was freezing cold, and since the last volcanic

eruption on Elgon happened about 10 million years ago, there

was no hope of warming up the natural way. Park Ranger, David

accompanied us until the end of the trek. “Sometimes, buffaloes

roam the area in search of salt,” he said, an AK-47 gun over his

shoulder, “and then there are poachers who try to kill them.” A few

years back, when Uganda was suffering badly after the years of

civil war, Mount Elgon was a favourite smuggling route for goods

from Kenya. Nowadays, the economy has caught up and smuggling

has stopped. “It no longer makes sense to carry the stuff over the

mountain”, explains David.

The trail passes through wide plains and a swampy area

covered with red orchids. Colobus monkeys watched our

Mount Elgon has the largest surface area of any extinct volcano in the world

Left:

Rock bluff near

Mount Elgon

dominates the

surrounding

landscape.

Right:

The town of

Mbale, where

the Mount Elgon

National Park

headquaters is

located.

>>


passage from the treetops as we neared Piswa Patrol hut.

On the ground, other creatures caught our attention: army

ants roamed in long procession of thousands, protected

by big individuals with powerful jaws capable of delivering a

painful bite. “They will eat everything in their way, and there

is nothing you can do to stop them”, warned our guide,

removing an army ant from his foot.

Tourism is still a low-key affair on the mountain of illusion,

and all porters and guides work part-time, making their

main income as farmers. Still, visitor numbers grow, and

Aron is confident that one day locals may gain more from

ecotourism.

In the shadow of famous Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya,

Mount Elgon is still a secret among East Africa’s trekking

destinations. There are no souvenir shops, no pestering

touts, just pure nature during the five-day circuit. Easily

reached from the capital Kampala, with no special

equipment needed and away from the mass tourism track,

Elgon has huge potential as an ecotourism destination.

feature

Left:

The beautiful

Sipi Falls,on the

way to Mount

Elgon.

Below:

Elephant in

Mount Elgon,

but they are

still rarely seen

by hikers.

Mount Elgon is still a secret among East Africa’s trekking destinations

>>


One of the most common problems that people seek my

help for is insomnia. While this is due to neurological or

physical causes in a tiny percentage of my clients, 95

per cent of those suffering from trouble sleeping can be helped

without resorting to prescription medicines. Why? Because

most of the people who suffer from this problem do so for an

unexpected reason – they try too hard to go to sleep and worry

too much if they have difficulty in doing so.

WORRY-CAUSED INSOMNIAStart by analysing your insomnia and clearly identifying

whether it is caused by worry. Is your inability to sleep caused

by a specific problem that keeps cropping up, or is it just that

however hard you try, you just cannot go to sleep? Let’s tackle

the first assumption – that your insomnia is problem-related.

A large proportion of clients report that when they can’t

sleep the cause is a specific worry. They may have argued with

a friend or partner and be angry, their child may have brought

home a bad school report, they could have made a mistake at

work, or scratched the car. There are a million causes that can

unleash worry gremlins. And worry, in turn, releases chemicals

into the brain that get the heart and mind racing, pushing the

chances of a good night’s sleep into the background. You are

no doubt aware that worry gremlins do their most destructive

work at night. Your brain is in ‘top gear’ and the anxiety takes

on an importance that is wholly out of proportion to the greater

scheme of things. If you allow it to take control, it will not only

ruin your sleep, but you will certainly feel much worse for fear in

the morning.

So tackle the problem head on! Confront that gremlin! Think

about what you are worrying about and consciously ask yourself

to define this. Then get out of bed, take a sheet of paper, and

write out exactly what it is that you can’t stop thinking about.

Leave the paper and a pencil on your bedside table, and make

a conscious decision to deal with the problem after breakfast,

saying to yourself that you will put it aside until then.

SLEEP? EASY!By Walter Glaser

healthy living


The chances are that you will find an amazing thing

happening. Your subconscious mind will act like the search-

engine on your computer, and when you wake up the best way

to solve the problem may have worked its way to the surface

of your mind. Many clients who have followed this advice have

reported that, once they have written down the problem, they

have woken up in the morning, – or even in the middle of the

night – knowing exactly what to do. If that happens, write down

your thoughts and you will have no problem going back to sleep.

But letting the gremlins take control of your conscious mind

at the time when you should be sleeping will only send it into a

frenzy of counter-productive activity. So deliberately identifying

and then setting the problem aside is the first, and very

important, step. Once you have done this, you are at the same

level as the person whose insomnia is not caused by worry, and

in both cases you can now move to the next step.

DON’T TRY TOO HARD TO GO TO SLEEPSome time ago I spoke to a friend – a successful doctor

specialising in sleep disorders who told me about some

interesting research he had been doing for many years. In the

process he had, many years ago spoken to a famous brain

surgeon who had worked with head-wound sufferers in the First

World War.

During the shelling and trench warfare the surgeon had

patched up soldiers suffering from head and brain injuries. In

some cases this damage had affected patients so severely that

they were never able to sleep again. The surgeon had always

believed that total lack of sleep would cause the patients to

die, but this was not generally the case. Those patients who

could not sleep and got no rest usually did die. But the ones

who were able to rest and go into a state of alpha where the

brainwaves and heart rate reduces noticeably (as in yoga,

hypnosis or medication) often lived out their full life-spans. He

concluded that it was rest, and not sleep, that the brain really

needed.

I find that once my clients understand and accept the fact

that it is rest rather than sleep that is essential for their well

being, it brings about a profound change and takes away the

fear of insomnia. They no longer ‘try too hard’ and if they

follow my suggestions their results are generally a spectacular

improvement.

The next move is to get your mind into the ‘alpha’ mode so

that you can completely relax and put your brain into ‘low gear’,

thus allowing it to slow down into the comfort zone.

Close your eyes and concentrate on the back of your eyelids.

Most people, after they have done this for a few moments,

start to see a pattern that looks a little like a black background

with dots and shapes slowly drifting across it. If you can’t see

this, it doesn’t matter either, but it you can, concentrate on

that random pattern. Then focus on your breathing. Visualise

that, with every breath, you breathe in relaxation and breath out

tension. As you do this for a minute or two, you may observe

that you are feeling far more relaxed than you have been for

a quite a while, are very much at peace. You can feel your

breathing slow down and this is because your heart rate will

have dropped and the same will have happened to your blood

pressure. If you stayed in this mode all night without going to

sleep, you will get all the rest that your brain and body needs.

Many of my clients go to sleep very easily and naturally at

this point, and if you do this also, that’s fine. But if you are still

awake after five or 10 minutes of going into alpha, here is a

technique that those who have tried it, swear by.

THIS WILL DO IT!The method technique that will solve the problem involves

being totally counter-cyclical! Say to yourself that you do NOT

want to go to sleep for the moment because you want to try

an experiment. But know this! What I am about to suggest is

probably one of the hardest tasks you could possibly set for

your mind.

As you lie there, concentrate on the last thing you did before

going to bed the night before, i.e. 24 hours ago. And remember

in detailed terms – not in generalities. What did you do? You

may have cleaned your teeth, or had a glass of water. Replay

the last thing in your mind, and then work backwards from that.

Did you get undressed? If so, in what sequence? Did you watch

television? If so, try and replay the sequence of the show, but

remember that everything has to be played BACKWARDS in

your mind. Remember the end of it first and work backwards

to the beginning. If you ate a meal, start by remembering the

dessert in detail and finish with the soup or appetiser.

Don’t for a moment think this is easy to do. It’s a real mind-

bender! And what you will find happening is that, after a few

minutes, your mind is going to object. You’ve made it work too

hard and its tired. Your subconscious will take over, decide that

it all too hard, and you will drift off to sleep.

Don’t allow your mind to move on to any other thoughts. It is

the backwards - thinking game or nothing! And it works. Should

you wake up an hour or two later, the challenge is to go back to

the point in the memory game where you fell asleep and keep

working backward from there. Very shortly you’ll be back in

dreamland.

And that’s it. Most of my clients tell me this works as well

as for them as it has always done for me. I haven’t had to

take a sleeping pill for ages. One client, who does a lot of

intercontinental flying and had really bad insomnia found that a

single melatonin tablet (a non-prescription, anti-jet-lag medication

available from health food shops and pharmacies) also helps

greatly if his mind is really racing, but most people don’t need to

take anything at all.

Sleep well!

healthy living


The Shoebill

Uganda is arguably the most alluring country in Africa to

birdwatchers, not only because of the unusually high

number of species recorded within its borders, but also

because it offers easy access to numerous bird-rich habitats that

are often very difficult to reach elsewhere on the continent.

Sir Frederick Jackson (1860-1929), a former Governor of

the Uganda Protectorate and keen ornithologist once described

the country as a “hidden Eden ... and wonderland of birds”. He

was right, as no other country in Africa can match Uganda’s

amazing diversity of habitats and this richness is reflected in the

remarkable 1008 recorded bird species that include the rare

Shoebill stork – arguably one of Africa’s most sought-after birds. A

great sportsman and explorer, Jackson devoted all his spare time

to studying natural history and was founder and President of the

Uganda and East Africa Natural History Society. As a collector, he

donated many specimens of the Shoebill to The Natural History

Museum in London.

This avian curiosity is now very often the main motivational factor

behind the many ornithological tours to Uganda, who will charter

dug-out canoes and head into the papyrus swamps in search of the

one bird which epitomizes Uganda – the enigmatic Shoebill, a huge

and somewhat prehistoric-looking relative of the pelican.

Although the Shoebills distribution ranges as far north as

the Sudanese Nile, it was among the last African birds of

comparable size to be introduced to science. It was, however,

alluded to by early European explorers to the Sudan, who wrote

of a “camel-sized flying creature” known by the local Arabs as

abu markub, which means ‘Father of the Shoe’, a reference to

the bird’s distinctive bill.

First described by the eminent English naturalist John

Gould (1804-1881), he named it ‘Balaeniceps rex’, “the most

extraordinary bird I have ever seen for many years”, words that

doubtless echo through many people’s minds when they have

their first encounter with the species.

Gould knew he had something truly exceptional, for he had

seen the collection of birds shot by Mansfield Parkyn, Esquire of

Nottingham, on the banks of the Upper White Nile in 1850, and

later the live specimens collected there by the British Consul in

Khartoum, John Petherick, who created a sensation at London

Zoo by sending them several Shoebills in 1862. Gould’s name

for the species means ‘King Whalehead’, and for most of its life

as a mysterious, monstrous, almost mythical inhabitant of the

impenetrable marshes of the Upper Nile and its tributaries, it

has gone by the English name of ‘Whale-headed Stork’.

nature & wildlife

Text and images from Peter Holthusen.

The Shoebill and the Hammerkop (Scopus umbretta) are the

‘missing links’ that connect pelicans and storks, and including

the pelican lineage in the Ciconiiformes order expresses this

more adequately than other taxonomic treatments do.

So far, two fossil relatives of the Shoebill have been

described: ‘Goliathia’ from the early Oligocene period of Egypt

and ‘Paludavis’ from the early Miocene of the same country.

It has been suggested that the enigmatic African fossil bird

‘Eremopezus’ was a relative too, but the evidence for that is very

spurious indeed. All that is known of the latter species is that

it was a very large, probably flightless bird with a flexible foot,

allowing it to handle either vegetation or live prey.

Long in the leg and broad in the wing, standing well over a

metre high and dressed entirely in dull, slate-grey plumage,

the Shoebill is dominated by its feeding apparatus, a huge and

powerful appendage ending in a ferocious nail-like hook-tipped

bill that grows to more than 20 centimetres, the largest among

all living bird species. Seemingly aggressive and primitive in

appearance, the bird has caused taxonomists constant vexation

and bafflement over its affinities. Gould thought it was allied to

the pelicans, but it has characteristics that place it close both

to storks and to herons.

Shoebills occur throughout the swamps and marshes of

Sub-Saharan Africa, but in their stronghold in Uganda they seem

to prefer floating vegetation or ‘sudd’, formed notably, though

not exclusively, by papyrus. They generally keep to the more open

areas, avoiding dense stands of pure papyrus and tall grass,

which obstruct its take-off. Sluggish and largely solitary, they

will often utilise channels widened or even opened by roaming

Hippos and Elephants. The Shoebill consumes up to half its body

weight in food daily. It tends to hunt in water that is shallow

and poorly oxygenated, preying on fish, frogs, reptiles, such as

young crocodiles, insects, small mammals and birds, usually by

ambush, standing motionless on banks or floating vegetation.

African lungfish are especially favoured. At the beginning of

the dry season, the lungfish takes the precaution of burrowing

into the mud at the bottom, wrapping its tail around its head and

secreting slime. If and when the swamp is baked dry, it will be

able to survive in a state of suspended animation, obtaining all

the oxygen it requires by absorbing it through a pair of finger-

shaped projections from its gut. The Shoebill prevents many of

them getting to this stage. As it wades slowly through the water,

clogged with vegetation, it holds its huge bill vertically downwards

so that it can focus both its eyes on the water. If it spots a

lungfish lurking on the mud at the bottom or feels it with its feet,

it lurches forward with its whole body and plunges its bill into

the water. Using its wings as arms, it pushes itself upright again

with a foot-long lungfish wriggling in its great beak.

nature & wildlife

Uganda is arguably the most alluring country in Africa to birdwatchers

The strike, when it comes, is spectacular in its speed and

power, the massive bird flapping and pouncing downward to

grasp the passing prey in its inescapable mandibles. The sharp,

upcurving edges of the bill and hooked-over tooth gripping,

crushing and piercing in one decisive moment. Partially

nocturnal and sluggish, the Shoebill supplements its diet by

probing the mud for nutrients with its bill. They also fly with their

heads and necks folded back.

As the breeding season approaches usually in the months

of April to June, the male and female start engaging in a bill

clacking courtship display prior to mating. The birds are solitary

nesters, laying one to three oval, whitish eggs over the course

of two to three days in a large, flat nest built amidst swamp

grasses or sedges, usually on the ground in remote areas.

These eggs are incubated primarily by the female for 40-50

days until they hatch, while being fed at intervals during the day

by the male. The silvery brown chicks remain helpless for some

time, the young birds being dependant on the skilful hunting of

their parents. In common with several other members of the

stork family, a nesting Shoebill will stop the eggs and chicks

from overheating in hot weather by filling its ample bill with

water and sluicing the nest. Usually only one nestling survives,

possibly as a result of sibling rivalry or external predation.

The African population is estimated at between 5,000 and

8,000 individuals, the majority of which live in Uganda, Tanzania

and Sudan. Estimating its numbers has proved very difficult,

however. This and other evidence suggests that the Shoebill

probably survives well enough in its marshland habitat in these

countries, in addition to Zaire, Zambia and parts of the Democratic

Republic of Congo. Records from other countries are few and

seem generally to refer to vagrants (the bird soars to great

heights and clearly possesses good dispersive abilities), although

there is also a chance a small population breeds in Malawi, where

local people in the Liwonde National Park have a name for the

species. Smaller (and probably non-

viable) resident populations

inhabit Rwanda’s

Akagera National

Park, the Baro River

floodplain in south-

western Ethiopia and

possibly Burundi and

the Central African

Republic.

In their

Ugandan

stronghold,

Shoebills >>


nature & wildlife

>> are mainly seen in the Mabamba Swamp near Entebbe on

the shores of Lake Victoria, the banks of the Nile River in the

Murchison Falls National Park, the Ishasha sector and Lake

Kikorongo in the Queen Elizabeth National Park, Lake Kyoga

and the southern fringe of Lake Albert that adjoins the Semliki

Wildlife Reserve.

More difficult to quantify is the threat posed by the

international animal trade, which is restricted by the Shoebill’s

inclusion on CITES Appendix II and by the legal protection

afforded to the bird by Uganda and other countries in its range.

Nevertheless, the Shoebill is still in high demand by the zoo

trade and appears unable to breed successfully in captivity,

which places a very high price-tag on wild individuals captured

for sale – at US $10,000 to $15,000; it is the world’s most

expensive bird. One can only hope that a recent proposal to

upgrade the Shoebill to CITES Appendix I will soon render all

such trade illegal under international law, although it would

perhaps be naive to think it would eliminate the trade entirely.

All the same, this is a bird the African Red Data Book lists as

‘Of Special Concern’, owing to swamp drainage and general

disturbance and modification of its habitat.

Whatever its status, the Shoebill is one of the truly great

African species and the survival of the bird is paramount

considering the increasing number of dedicated ornithologists as

well as the novice birdwatchers who travel to Uganda to get a

glimpse of this rare and bizarre bird.

The Onyx Jewellers has been established for over 35 years and has earned the reputation

as one of Kenya’s most prominent retailers of fine jewellery, precious and semi-precious

gemstones namely Tanzanites, Tsavorites and Diamonds as well as exquisite hand-

crafted sculptures and carvings.

Boasting a range of jewellery that is as diverse as its client base, our shops have

over the years, been frequently visited by various heads of state, dignitaries

and other high-profile personalities who have all enjoyed the Onyx

shopping experience and regularly commission pieces that today serve as

a continued testament to our commitment to, aesthetic designs, expert

craftsmanship and attention to detail.

The Onyx Jewellers remains dedicated to creating exquisite and delicately

designed pieces of fine jewellery that would suit any occasion.

Today these prestigious jewels and more are available from our shops at

the Nairobi Hilton Hotel, at our fine jewellery gallery located in Nairobi’s

ABC Place on Waiyaki Way and at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.

If you would like to make an appointment or to visit any of our shops please contact us on;

+ 254 (0)733 786 117/118/119 or email: [email protected]

We look forward to seeing you!

Left:

The Shoebill

is a very large

stork-like bird. It

derives its name

from its massive

shoe-shaped bill.


For more information contact: Books ’R’ Us LTD, | P.O. Box 45048, 00100 G.P.O. Nairobi, Kenya Tel: +254 (20) 4448923 / 4 / 5 | Fax: +254 (20) 444 8818 or 4441021 Email: [email protected] www.camerapixpublishers.com

Books‘R’Us

‘Birds stun our senses with the beauty of their perfection, whether

soaring on the wing or seen in the hand, when every detail can

be marvelled at, and it is this that the paintings in this book strive

to capture. But there is something more: each bird has its own

charcter, every species its own charcteristics. The achievement of

this book is that the words and paintings combine powerfully to

bring this to the fore.’

Jonathan Scott

Featuring two large-format hardback coffee table books, portraying a

journey through Uganda, acting as a stimulus to tourism,

as well as being the ideal souvenirs of a visit.

A Gallery of East Africa Birds Size: 280 mm length 280 mm widthPages: 136 printed 4/4 with full colour illustrations Cost: USD 39.00

Field Guide to the AmphibiansSize: 120 mm length 170 mm widthPages: 230 printed 4/4 with full colour illustrations Cost: USD 24.00

book world

At last, a book that will allow you to identify most of the amphibians found in the

world famous biodiversity hotspots of the Eastern Arc Mountains and Coastal

Forests of Tanzania and Kenya. This guide allows both the English and the

Swahili reader to identify and obtain natural history and conservation information

for the 122 species of amphibians found in the hotspots. In addition, the book

provides important background information on habitat types and presents a

historical perspective for those not familiar with the area and its fauna.


Superfoods The way to good health

Imagine a superfood – not a drug – powerful enough to help

lower our LDL (bad cholesterol) levels, reduce the risk of

heart disease and cancer and, for an added bonus, enhance

our looks without getting bankrupt. Did I mention that there

are no side effects? Guess what? These life-altering not-so-

expensive, natural super foods are available right now in your

local supermarket. Superfoods are a group of wholesome foods

that are a pack of essential nutrients. They’re particularly low in

calories, help us to keep healthy, give us more energy and help us

to look fantastic and fit. Medical professionals have researched

and found that that superfoods also provide protection against

various diseases, and promote a healthy lifestyle now and for the

future. The antioxidants found in these products are a class of

vitamins, minerals and enzymes that may help eliminate chemically

active oxygen molecules thought to contribute to aging and

chronic ailments such as cancer, heart disease and Alzheimer’s

disease.We just need to plan a healthy diet consisting of enough

amounts of superfoods that will help us maintain our weight, fight

disease, and live longer. Here are some of the superfoods which

can be very easily included in a daily diet.

Green TeaGreen tea is loaded with health benefits. Green tea is the only type

of tea that is not fermented, keeping the antioxidants in the green

tea very powerful. An antioxidant called epigallocatechin gallate

(EGCG) present in this green tea has been proven to be very

effective in lowering cholesterol levels and reducing the risk of

heart attacks and strokes. There is also evidence that green tea

increases metabolism that can promote weight loss, combined

with exercise and a healthy diet. Green tea contains fluoride;

it helps prevent tooth decay by killing the bacteria that causes

plaque. It is also a great source of Vitamin C, thus helping to

reduce stress and prevent flu. One of the main ingredients in

green tea is catechin, and studies performed at the National

Cancer Institute in Tokyo have shown that catechin use lowers

the incidence of cancer by more than 50 per cent if

consumed in sufficient quantities.Therefore drinking

just 2 to 3 cups a day can strongly boost the

immune system and thus help reduce the risk of

many dangerous health ailments.

Soy Soy and its products, such as soy milk, tofu, soychunks , soya

flour, soya nuts etc., is an excellent source of soy isoflavones

which may help to reduce the osteoporosis risk. In fact Soy

isoflavones have an oestrogen-like effect which helps to control

menopausal symptoms, and thus acts as a boon to women going

through the pre-menopausal phase. It helps to minimise hot

flushes and vaginal dryness in women. Several studies have

indicated that a regular intake of soy foods may help to prevent

hormone related cancers such as breast cancer, prostate cancer

and colon cancer. Soy is also a good source of lecithin and vitamin

E. These natural antioxidants prevent oxidation of LDL

cholesterol, leading to a reduced risk of any heart

disease. It can easily be included in our daily diet

by adding it in salads, vegetable curries, chapatis/

breads, dessert like cakes or can be had as soya milk.

Dark GreensGreen leafy vegetables are considered to be the major contributor

of vitamins and minerals in the diet. Dark green vegetables such

as kale, amaranth, collard greens, spinach, broccoli, asparagus

etc. are packed with vitamins A and C, iron, calcium and other

phytonutrients. They help in preventing night blindness, cataracts

and any kind of chronic fatigue. In fact certain dark green

vegetables like arugula, broccoli and kale supply phytochemicals

such as indoles that help stop cancer before it starts. Green leafy

vegetables like amaranth, spinach and mint are good sources of

folic acid. (100g = 120 - 140ug). Women of childbearing age who

may become pregnant and those in the first trimester of

pregnancy should consume adequate folic acid. This reduces the

risk of neural tube defects and anencephaly during foetal

development. Researchers of Harvard School have found that daily

consumption of leafy greens can cause a 23 per cent

reduction in coronary heart disease. These greens

also contribute to the fibre content of the diet. Fibre

helps to reduce constipation and diverticulosis. It is

advisable to include at least 50 grammes of leafy greens

daily in one’s diet.

BerryAnother excellent super food recommended by health experts is

the berry. This fruit is regarded as a gift of nature, as the wonder

fruit is full of antioxidants. A good source of vitamin C and folic

acid, it is known to have anti-cancer nutrients. In fact according to

the researchers at The United States Department of Agriculture

(USDA), blueberries are ranked as the number one antioxidant

fruit. Some studies suggest that blueberries not only strengthen

Dietician and Sports Nutritionist, Deepshikha Agarwal, offers somesound dietary advice for good health and a long life.

healthy living


our immune system, but may also guard against neurological

disorders, such as Alzheimer’s. They may also aid in protecting

eyesight and guarding against urinary tract infections. Cranberries

are also highly rated as a skin cleansing food as its moisture

content is 87 per cent, even though skin eruptions

may appear at first in some cases. If one has a

craving for sweets then he/she can replace the

calorie rich sweets with these low calorie hydrating

fruits having natural sugars.

OatsUnlike many other carbohydrates, oats – even the instant kind –

digest slowly, so they have little impact on your blood sugar. Oats

are not only low calorie grain but are also rich in various nutrients

like magnesium, potassium, zinc, selenium, protein etc. Oats

contain one of the best amino acid profiles of all grains. Oats,

oat bran, and oatmeal contain a specific type of fibre known as

beta-glucan. Oats, via their high fibre content, are already known

to help remove cholesterol from the digestive system that would

otherwise end up in the bloodstream. Therefore they indirectly

help to decrease the LDL cholesterol from oxidation and protects

us from any cardiovascular disease. Oats are also an excellent

source of magnesium, a mineral that acts as a

co-factor for enzymes involved in the body’s use of

glucose and insulin secretion. Therefore they can

be included in a diabetic diet very easily.

Olive oil Olive oil has healthy fat that increases satiety, taming your

appetite. Heart disease is the leading cause of death for both men

and women nowadays. Dietary olive oil protects the

endothelium, the lining of our blood vessels, keeping those

arteries clear so that our heart can get enough oxygen and

nutrients to keep pumping, thus help to maintain the blood

pressure and keep our heart disease free. Extra Virgin olive oil is

better than the other variety of olive oil because it contains more

polyphenols, antioxidants that help to keep your heart healthy. In

fact, olive oil’s protective function has a beneficial effect on ulcers

and gastritis. The anti-microbial activity of the polyphenols

of olive oil works against Helicobacter pylori, bacteria

responsible for the development of peptic ulcers and

gastric cancer. Therefore it is advisable to substitute

butter and other refined oils with olive oil to improve

gastrointestinal health. Olive oil is very well tolerated by

the stomach.

Yogurt Dietitians often refer to plain yogurt as the perfect food. With zero

carbohydrates and trans fat, it can stave off hunger by keeping

blood sugar levels steady. With 20 per cent calcium for

growing bones, it serves as very good medicine. Its enzymes

help to keep the body cool, and it is also a good healer. The

bacteria in curd can help digest food and thus, alleviate the

problem of stomach infection like inflammatory bowel disease

and H. pyloriinfection. Eating yogurt on a regular basis can help

you absorb the nutrients in other foods as well. One should try

including curds in every meal. It can be in any form like buttermilk,

salad dip, khadi, raita etc. Those who are lactose-intolerant can

consume yogurt, as bacteria present in it breaks

down the lactose before it enters your body.

Those suffering from vaginal infection have also

been found to have benefitted from yogurt.

AvocadosAvocados are the best fruit source of vitamin E, an antioxidant

that helps to prevent cellular damage by preventing the

formation of free radicals. The flesh of a ripe avocado soothes

sunburnt skin. Just cut the fruit in half and rub it gently over

the affected areas. Avocados are a good source of potassium

also, a mineral that helps regulate blood pressure. They are

higher in potassium than a medium banana. Although they are

fruits, avocados have a high fat content – almost 88 per cent

of their total calories – about 20 times as compared to other

fruits. A typical avocado contains 30 grammes of fat, but 20

per cent of these fats are health-promoting monounsaturated

fats, thus giving it distinct health benefits. One cup of avocado

has 23 per cent of the recommended daily value of folate.

Studies show that people who eat diets rich in folate have a

much lower incidence of heart disease than those

who don’t. The vitamin E, monounsaturated fats,

and glutathione in avocado are great for the

heart areas. They can be included in our daily

diet by adding them in preparations like salads,

dips, soups, and in garnishing non-vegetarian

dishes, or it can be had as whole fruit itself.

SalmonLean fish are always good alternatives for healthy meats in

your diet. However, salmon is extra special because it contains

Omega 3s. Omega-3 is beneficial in reducing inflammation in the

body, preventing cardiovascular disease, diabetes, some types

of cancers, slowing cognitive problems such as Alzheimer’s

disease. Canned salmon contains large amounts of

calcium and vitamin D (because fish bones are not

removed). Salmon is an excellent source of selenium

mineral that helps protect the body from damaging

effects of free radicals, which can weaken the cells

and leave them prone to infection and other diseases.


I am working as hard as I can. I have been making 20 calls a day.

I have been working out for the last three years. I buy flowers

for my partner every month, but our relationship is far from

passionate. I have done 400 presentations for my business and

have not had a single sale yet. I can’t seem to cross to the next

level in my sport.

Does any of this sound familiar? Hard work, energy, blood, sweat, and tears – to deduce a few

of the payments people make in the pursuit of success from

the above list of complaints – doesn’t mean anything. It’s also

unfortunate that the majority of people only focus on what they do

rather than the results they’re getting. The results of what you put

in are what comprise your score card. What is on the score card

is all that matters.

Results are all that matters. You have either seen or experienced what would be classified as

unfair situations, such as the following examples:

A person working and trying hard to achieve a certain sales •

target, while another colleague cruises by with, seemingly, a

lot less effort.

Two people going to the gym – as an outsider, you would say •

that person A is working really hard in the gym compared to

person B; yet person B has the better results in 12 weeks.

Two students studying for their exams, one studying a lot •

more than the other; yet the one who seemingly studied less

gets the better grades.

It seems unfair. I used to say that. But that is the reality. What makes these so-called underdogs win? They do the right things needed to get the results. They do the

smart things that matter. Everything in life has a formula. Get

the formula right, and you get the right result. The results you

have in your life right now will tell you something about what you

are putting into it. Successful people have an orientation for the

outcome. Everything is based on results – not the resources spent

on something, not the time taken, not how much energy was put

into something, none of that. It is simply all about

the results.

What it’s all about?Wherever you are in your life is a result, whether you like

it or not. Your weight is a result. Your health is a result. Your

relationship status is a result. Your cash flow is a result, and your

net worth is a result.

Results, results, results – results are all that matter.

If any of the results in your life need changing, then you must

review what you are doing. As the famous saying goes, if you keep

on doing what you have always done, then you will keep on getting

what you have always gotten.

“Successful people give you results. Others will give you their

rationale.”

To change your financial results, you must change what you are

doing or how you are doing it. And you must do so now. To change

your sporting result, you need to change what you do or how you

are doing it. And now, some of you might say, “I’m not getting the

results I desire, and I’ve tried and tried and tried”.

There is no point banging your head against a brick wall wanting

to get to the other side.

Don’t try to rationalise why you are not getting the results. It’s

a waste of energy. Instead try another avenue; maybe there’s a

different path that another person who is achieving the result you

want is using, and maybe you could do the same. Chances are, if

he or she is achieving the desired result, so can you.

What you must ask yourself is, Do you want to be

mediocre or successful?

Do you want to

be forgotten or

remembered?

Do you want to live a

full life or one where you

constantly ask yourself,

“Could I have done that?”

A very successful person

always told me to be a

feature

“Successful people give you results. Others will give you their rationale.”

This is an excerpt from Kevin Abdulrahman’s book Winning The Game Of Life.


are the one calling the shots and, believe it or not, you will start

getting the results you want. You plan and then take action steps

to achieve the result within a certain time frame.

Here are three quick tips to steer you on the right track to achieve results.

Do what other successful people in your area of interest are 1.

doing. In other words, you cannot spend your time in cooking

classes if you want to be a top badminton player. You must

learn and play with the best on the badminton court.

Spend time to learn and become great at whatever you are 2.

choosing to excel in. Most people give up after a week or so

of trying things out. Successful people never stop learning in

order to one day become the best that they can be, as long

as they know that they are on the right track.

Look at the results you are achieving. If your results and your 3.

vision match, continue with the actions you’re taking. If they

don’t match, then ask yourself what changes need to be

made and take action.

feature

“results-based person.” Since then, I have taken on being results

orientated. Today, talk is cheap to me. Anyone can talk, and a lot

of people do a lot of talking. I have found that only a few people will

materialise what they talk about and, hence, I deal only with those

people in my day-to-day activities. I am more interested in results

than talk.

Results are also what I coach people on! You must develop and master the weapon of being results

orientated. Your result could mean achieving a certain ranking

in your business organisation. It could mean attaining certain

financial success or hitting certain targets at work. Or your result

could be winning the gold at the next Olympics. Getting results, for

you, could be having the ability to choose how to spend your days

without any worries, the ability to go to the beach and sip from

a coconut knowing your finances are of no concern. Your result

could be the ability to give the best to your family – your time. It

could be spending two full days of every week with the people you

love and care about the most; it could be the time you spend giving

to others.

To help you master the weapon of being results orientated, you

must understand the concept of living life by design, as opposed to

living life by default. The masses are living every day of their lives

by default, with no plan whatsoever, hoping that things will stack up

in their favour. Unfortunately, the majority of people think this way,

and hence, their end results are not what they’d

wished for.

When you live life by design (in other words, when you plan), you

have the results in mind and can move ahead, constantly tweaking

every step on the way if need be. When you live life by design, you

You can get Kevin Abdulrahman’s books and request for him to

speak / train your group by going on https://www.KevInspire.com.


Today, virtually every tourist to Africa carries a camera and

it is possible to take acceptable photographs of wildlife

without a great deal of skill or effort, and at little risk to

one’s personal safety.

It was all very different 100 years ago. Cameras were bulky,

heavy and inconvenient to carry around. Negatives were made

on fragile glass plates, and some early wildlife and landscape

photographers took a portable darkroom around with them. Each

photograph had to be carefully thought out before pressing the

shutter since it was not possible to rattle off a sequence in quick

succession as one can these days with a motor-drive camera.

The exploits of famous 19th century explorers such as

Livingstone, Speke and Burton have remained well-known,

but there were other pioneers whose names have become

largely forgotten. One of these is Cherry Kearton, who, with a

fellow traveller and writer, James Barnes, crossed the African

continent from east to west, often on foot, beginning in April

1913 and ending with their return to London 14 months later.

Moreover, Kearton took a heavy cine camera with him on his

travels. Cine was in its infancy at the time, and cameras were

Across Africa with a Camera

hand-cranked, although in the depths of Africa such simplicity

was probably a good thing. Kearton had already travelled

extensively and was an accomplished photographer, so he was

well prepared for the epic journey.

The journey began at Mombasa, and the party travelled

through Uganda and the Congo before arriving at Matadi, on the

Congo River near the west coast. It was one of the first great

feats of African exploration that did not aim to discover new

lands or create records, nor were wild animals shot for trophies

for Cherry Kearton was also a pioneer conservationist.

Kearton’s journey was made for the express purpose of

making a film of Africa, its people and the wildlife as it really

existed, so that people in the west could see it for themselves,

rather than through the imagination of artists who often had

never been near the continent.

The safari began in earnest in Nairobi where Kearton and

Barnes recruited a large troop of African porters to carry their

equipment, and also the services of a young white hunter who

was well acquainted with much of the country on their planned

route.

history

Roger Barnard follows the journey of one of the first wildlife photographers, Cherry Kearton, on an epic trek nearly 100 years ago.

.


On 2 June 1913, they made their longest and hardest march –

22 miles without water – until they reached the Ewaso Nyiro river.

Cherry Kearton described the experience:

“It was like marching into a painting. To the north rose

mountain after mountain in fantastic form. In the first mile we

descended 900 feet. Buffalo and rhino spoor were plentiful, rock

rabbits abounded, but we saw no other living thing until in the

afternoon we sighted a troop of giraffe in the distance.”

A few days later they arrived at an area with an abundance of

wildlife. Elephant, rhino, giraffe, zebra, gazelle, leopard and lion

had all left traces that could be ‘read’ by an experienced tracker.

Cherry Kearton and his colleague quickly began to set up hides,

behind which they could wait and watch, to photograph the

unsuspecting animals when they came to drink at the waterholes.

In fact, for many days they had no success at all, and inside

their hiding places the daytime temperatures soared. But there

were other days when they were well repaid for their patience and

discomfort, and Kearton’s cameras were busy taking both movie

and still pictures.

There were moments of high excitement, such as when a pride

of lions assembled just a few feet from their flimsy grass shelter.

They spent an anxious night, with just one rifle between them,

listening to the roars of these beasts at close quarters, but

fortunately the animals did not trouble them.

Before leaving the waterholes Cherry Kearton captured a cine

sequence of a dozen giraffes drinking together – not a particularly

remarkable picture by today’s standards for cameras with long

telephoto lenses, but it was quite a coup in 1913. Giraffes are

easily startled, and the presence of a number of them caused

other, smaller animals to follow them, knowing that it must be

safe from predators.

Kearton had set his heart on filming buffalo, but he realised

that a flimsy grass-covered hide was totally unsuited for the task.

So he returned to Nairobi to purchase a galvanised water tank.

The ever-resourceful photographer planned to sink the tank into

the middle of a swamp, partly filling it with stones to weigh it

down. The plan was to get into the tank before he was spotted by

buffalo and, once in, he was safe to film them since the buffalo

could not easily cross the swamp to attack them. This ingenious

solution enabled Kearton to obtain some fine close-up shots of the

herd.

More weeks of travelling, at first by train and then by Lake

steamer, brought the expedition to Uganda, which they clearly

admired. Barnes wrote: “Uganda is a country that is bound to

impress even the most casual of visitors.”

After a stay at Kampala they headed west and, on Christmas

Day, 1913, reached a beautiful lake that Kearton calls ‘Llonga-

Llonga’: “one of those liquid gems that nature seems to have

placed in exactly the sort of setting to display its beauty – a little

sheet of light-blue crystal lying in the depths of what must have

been once an old volcanic crater.” The lake is difficult to find on

modern maps and presumably is one of the crater lakes to the

south of Fort Portal.

They got their first experience of the forests in the foothills

of the Ruwenzori Mountains. “One day,” wrote Kearton, “for the

space of 20 minutes the enshrouding clouds lifted, and we caught

a glimpse of the gleaming peaks way above the high, forest-

covered blue-grey hills. There lay, exposed for that fleeting space

of time, nearly 30 miles of gleaming ice and snow! Then the

clouds closed down and no one would have known that there was

a mountain within a thousand miles.”

After crossing the Semliki River, Kearton managed to obtain

some pictures of an enormous crocodile. From what must have

been a hastily constructed shelter the photographer saw the

monster rise out of the water, walking on all four legs with “atleast

two feet of space between its bulk and the sand”.

history

>>


Kearton estimated this crocodile to be “atleast 30 feet in

length”, but one has to seriously question this since Nile

Crocodiles today reach a maximum of 16 feet.

Since food was becoming short, the expedition could not

stay long but continued westwards, entering the Congo where

they found some elephant tracks. Cherry Kearton and Barnes

climbed up into a tree near a waterhole and made a platform of

reeds on which they set up their film camera and prepared for

action.

A fine herd of elephants soon appeared, just as the pair were

attacked by thousands of safari ants. Despite being driven nearly

frantic by the ants, they had the presence of mind to keep

turning the camera handle and got some excellent pictures. As

soon as the animals had passed, however, Kearton and Barnes

threw caution to the winds and rushed to the waterhole where

they tore off their clothes and washed the ants off them.

Just beyond the frontier station of Irumu they reached the

edge of the great Equatorial forest. To the western travellers

it was an impressive sight and from here the mighty stands of

timber stretched right through to the west, as well as north and

south for 800 miles. The contrast with just a few miles to the

east – where there were few trees – was stark.

The dark forest made filming very difficult and time was

running out if they were to catch the monthly steamer at

Basoko. By this time Kearton and Barnes had been on the

march for nine months and were feeling the strain.

Part of the remaining journey was made by dug-out canoe

along the rivers that took the place of roads through the great

forest region. With the aid of African paddlers, when the going

was good up to 30 miles a day could be travelled.

They continued by canoe, perhaps driving their paddlers

rather too hard in their desire to reach the steamer in time, for

the men were on the verge of mutiny, whilst Barnes developed

a bad dose of fever. Finally, after paddling until midnight, they

reached the Barumba fort, a river station where the steamer

would be calling. There, the two exhausted men learned to their

relief that the steamer would be calling next morning. They had

won their race against time by just a few hours.

After boarding the steamer Cherry Kearton found that he

had lost 40 pounds since starting out from Mombasa. Barnes

was lighter than he had been at school. All the cabins were full

so they had to sleep on deck and thus endured a further 14

uncomfortable days on the river.

On reaching the Atlantic Ocean they transferred to an ocean-

going ship that took them back home to England. The most

precious part of the cargo – the 12,000 feet of film that they

had shot on the journey – was packed in wooden boxes that

were themselves stored in watertight steel cases. When they

got home they found that less than five per cent of the film

had been damaged, a remarkable achievement after so many

months in difficult tropical conditions.

That film would in due course be edited and shown to the

public in cinemas and halls up and down the country, allowing

hundreds of thousands of people to gain an insight into Africa

for the first time.

Kearton and Barnes also related their adventures in an

illustrated book: Through Central Africa from East to West which

was published in 1915 and from which the accompanying

photographs were taken. In the years that followed Kearton

made many more journeys overseas and his cine films were a

great hit with the public.

history

>>

.


The hand of the clock is ruthlessly striking wilderness areas off the face of the

earth, one by one. Scars leave cracks in the landscape and the earth greys with

the age of man. Islands of pristine wilderness are being ambushed by development

and before we can turn back, they will be tainted or totally lost, says Charles

Tumwesigye and Sandra Slater-Jones.

Mexico Welcomes Uganda to the 9th World Wilderness Congress

feature

Below: Crop raiding by mountain gorillas in Southern Bwindi, Uganda.

Pho

tos

© C

harles

Tum

wes

igye

& S

andr

a Sla

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Jone

s


Conservationists are working tirelessly to rescue wild areas

from being damaged to serve human needs. Protected

areas, as a result, are being secured globally but in

order to earn their keep they have to be altered in some way.

As an example, to sustain tourism in protected areas roads,

trails, buildings, and facilities are developed and, as a result,

the natural systems are often adversely impacted. The WILD

Foundation (an international organisation based in the US)

and its sister organisations in Africa and the UK promote the

importance of protecting areas in their most intact form, to

safeguard the “life support services” these areas provide (clean

water, air, balancing global climate, medicinal plants and much

more) while also preserving the spirit of untamed land. This type

of protected area is termed ‘wilderness’. The only form of human

intervention usually permitted in such areas is traditional resource

utilisation by indigenous residents – which must be historically and

ecologically justified – and scientific studies and recreation that

have no technological impacts. It is not only encouraged that new

wilderness areas are secured globally, but also that wilderness is

zoned into existing protected areas.

The 9th World Wilderness Congress – dubbed ‘WILD9’ – was

held in Merida in the Yucatan Province of Mexico in November

2009. Every four years the World Wilderness Congress brings

scientists, protected area managers, government officials and

leaders, artists, writers, photographers and film makers,

indigenous leaders, academics and the private sector together,

to find practical solutions to ensure that wilderness is recognised

and protected on a global scale. The wilderness network

developed at each Congress keeps track of and supports the

many outcomes and resolutions that are produced, and that

target practical conservation and community accomplishments

are followed through. Vance Martin, Director of the WILD

Foundation explains, “the Congress in

not an institution, but rather a global

community of people (professionals

and the public) who understand the

importance of wild nature to the health

and prosperity of human communities,

and want to act on its behalf.”

Charles Tumwesigye, Chief

Warden of Uganda’s Bwindi

Impenetrable National Park and

Mahinga Gorilla National Park, which

protects half of the world’s population of

mountain gorillas and other endangered

species, was a speaker at the World

Wilderness Congress in Mexico. Bwindi

Impenetrable National Park not only

keeps half of the world’s population of

mountain gorillas but is also a World

Heritage Site inscribed by UNESCO in

1994. The park is surrounded by a very high human population

of local communities. Mr. Tumwesigye participated in a pre-

congress Wilderness Seminar with protected area managers

from all over the globe where various wilderness policies and

strategies were discussed, as well as a Government Forum

where various issues and solutions of wilderness management

feature

>>

Left:

Charles

Tumwesigye

(left) and other

delegates at

the 9th world

wilderness

congress.

Below:

Merida,

state capital

of Yucatan

Province of

Mexico, was

the venue for

the 9th World

Wilderness

Congress.

Right:

Mayan ruins,

Yucatan provice

in Mexico.


were brainstormed and debated. Mr. Tumwesigye also addressed

the Native Lands and Wilderness Council, which met during

WILD9, about the importance of the relationship the Bwindi

Impenetrable National Park has developed with the surrounding

communities to improve its management as a wilderness area.

In this talk, Mr.Tumwesigye indicated that previously communities

in the southern part of the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park

were hostile to the park as a result of frequent crop raiding by

mountain gorillas and other wild animals from the park. The park

habituated a group of gorillas in this area for tourism but no

sooner had the group been habituated than it started spending

more than 50 per cent of its time outside the park on community

land, which increased the conflict and exposed the endangered

mountain gorillas to disease. With support from development

partners (especially African Wildlife Foundation – AWF), the park

convinced the local communities to sell part of their land next

to the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park where gorillas were

ranging outside the park for use as a ‘buffer zone” to the general

wilderness area of Bwindi. This 12 kilometres by 350 metres

‘buffer zone’ has been used for problem animal intervention

measures that are also aimed at improving community livelihood

through growing buffer and commercial crops that are not

palatable to the gorillas, and generate income for communities.

The outer boundary of the buffer zone has been planted with a live

fence of Mauritius thorny plant that prevents gorillas and other

wildlife from crossing into community land. This intervention has

significantly reduced crop raiding incidents in southern Bwindi by

over 80 per cent since 2006.

To further increase tourism benefits to communities around the

park, the communities (through their umbrella organisation,

Nkuringo Conservation Development Foundation – [NCDF]) were

linked to a partner to help build and manage a high end eco-lodge

for them. In addition, the national park authority gave the

communities “first priority” to purchase six of the eight available

gorilla permits for the Nkuringo gorilla family. That way, the

ommunities are able to market their lodge and attract clients

who want to track the mountain gorillas. The lodge has been

operational since August 2008 and the income from the lodge

has been used by NCDF to support community development

projects including schools and other livelihood projects (heifers,

piggery, apiary and a modern craft shop).

All these have contributed to livelihood improvement and the

once-suffering community that considered the national park

as a necessary evil is now a very happy community obtaining

a wide range of benefits from conservation. As a result,

the relationship between community and park has improved

dramatically. The Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA), charged with

managing all wildlife protected areas in Uganda, is now using the

transformation of communities in southern Bwindi as a model

for community engagement in protected area management.

Mr.Tumwesigye can now look back and sigh with relief that his

work of managing mountain gorillas and their wilderness habitat

has been made easy with local community participation.

Much gratitude to Flora and Fauna International and to

Vance Martin and The WILD Foundation for the support for Mr.

Tumwesigye to represent Uganda Wildlife Authority at the 9th

World Wilderness Congress.

feature

Conservationists are working tirelessly to rescue wild areas from being damaged to serve human needs


Not so long ago, a trip to the zoo in many large cities

wouldn’t have been complete without a visit to the

Elephant House and a ride on one of these wonderful

creatures. At London Zoo great excitement greeted the arrival

in 1865 of Jumbo, a huge African bull weighing over six tonnes,

who gave rides and became a national favourite. Possibly his

name was Jambo, the Swahili word of greeting, but Jumbo he

became, and elephants have lived with it ever since.

Ironically, the public’s increasing awareness of the stress

caused to such intelligent and social animals when kept in

captivity has persuaded many zoos, including London Zoo, that

keeping them is no longer a humane option. The remaining

animals are now in controlled breeding programmes in freer

surroundings elsewhere.

All this has happened at a time when interest in elephants has

increased, largely thanks to excellent television documentaries.

Now that it’s not so easy to see live elephants at home, people

often prefer to take a long-haul flight to their natural habitats. And

so the legend on early explorers’ maps – ‘Here be elephants’ –

has regained some of its original truth.

‘Going on safari’ is no longer the preserve of wealthy adults.

Some African game parks are now actively encouraging families

with children of walking age to try a mini-safari to spot their

favourite animals. And if elephants don’t top everyone’s list before

they’ve actually seen a live one, it usually takes only one good

Here be Elephants

sighting of a family group with babies or a majestic lone tusker to

do the trick.

Of course, every ellie-fan knows that African elephants are

larger and have bigger ears than their Asian cousins whose

females don’t grow tusks. It is also true that the kind of elephant

experience you will have on each continent varies greatly. In

South-East Asia, elephants have been work animals for many

centuries, while almost all attempts to domesticate their African

relatives have failed. Ellie-fans often have strong views on the

subject. Some don’t mind seeing them trained, working and

comparatively tame if it means getting the opportunity to feed,

stroke or ride one, help with bath-time, or even being ‘given a lift’

by that versatile trunk – in which case they will head for Sri Lanka,

India or Thailand. Others prefer seeing them in the wild, so it has

to be an African safari.

When it comes to the chances of seeing African elephants,

several factors come into play, not least the drastic drop in

their numbers. At the time when London Zoo’s Jumbo left

his homeland, there were literally millions of his kind all over

sub-Saharan Africa, excluding only the true equatorial forests

and the driest southern parts. Even a century later there were

probably over two million of them. But by 1989, numbers had

crashed dangerously below the half-million mark, in spite of bans

on poaching and ivory sales. East Africa was the worst hit, with

only 16,000 elephants left in Kenya from its once mighty herds.

Kate Nivison gives some weighty advice on where to get the best sightings of everyone’s favourite animal.Photos by Kate Nivison

Above:

One of Africa’s

finest sights – a

family group on

the move in the

Maasai Mara.

nature & wildlife


Tanzania’s famous Serengeti and Selous national parks also lost a

similar proportion. Tanzania still has more elephants than Kenya,

but estimates vary.

With the numbers down, visitors can no longer expect to see

the magnificent spectacle of hundreds of elephants congregating

socially. Clan sizes are smaller, as indeed are the elephants

themselves since the average age now is younger, but family

groups led by a dignified matriarch and her relatives with their

young, of perhaps a dozen individuals, are still to be seen in

national parks such as Kenya’s Maasai Mara, Amboseli and

Tsavo where the visibility is good because the vegetation is fairly

open. The dry season offers the best sightings because the grass

is lower and the bush cover sparser. Also, elephants have to

congregate at rivers or waterholes to drink, so most camps are

within reach of such places.

Wardens realise that visitors would be disappointed if they didn’t

see elephants during their stay, and will try to make sure that they

do. Sometimes the process is helped by ‘collaring’. In the Samburu

in northern Kenya, Anastasia, the matriarch of the ‘Royal Family’ >>

clan has been fitted with a collar containing a SIM card that sends

out a text message every hour announcing her (and therefore her

family’s) whereabouts, and the same technique is being used on

lone bulls.

Rather different conditions are found in Botswana, which

actually has the most elephants (possibly 76,000). However,

they are scattered over vast areas, and game viewing is not as

commercially organised as in South Africa, where the Kruger

National Park is well in the lead. Fortunately the situation, both

for viewing and population numbers in southern Africa generally is

improving with the end of various wars. The Zambian herds in the

Luangwa, Kafue and Zambesi valleys are on the increase again

after severe decline, and South Africa is exporting elephants to

Mozambique.

One great place to see mature elephants roaming around is

the Victoria Falls area. They often cross between Zambia and

Zimbabwe by island-hopping and swimming across the Zambesi

well upstream of the Falls, and many family-run game lodges and

camps have been set up between Livingstone and the Caprivi Strip.

nature & wildlife

African elephants are larger and have bigger ears than their Asian cousins whose females don’t grow tusks


Left:

Elephant-back

safaris are

very popular

in South east

Asia.

Below:

Parade at the

Elephant

Festival,

Surin,Thailand.

Pho

to ©

Kat

e N

ivis

on

Although the little town of Victoria Falls has grown a lot in recent

years, it’s not uncommon to see one or two mature females with

their young strolling across the roads near town, drinking by the

river, or even scratching their chins on the roof of a private car

full of wide-eyed passengers. The message is, don’t hoot – it can

sound like a challenge; don’t leave the car; then back off or move

on very slowly. If there are youngsters, be extra wary. No-one in

their right mind would try to feed them, but some still do, with dire

results. These generally placid females are accepted by the local

people and vice versa, but they are still wild, and may attract bulls

from elsewhere.

Sitting in a car being used as a back-scratcher by a wild

elephant is about as personal as most of us want to get. But for

even closer encounters of the not-so-wild kind, South-East Asia is

the place. In India, the elephant god Gamesh has been worshipped

for millennia and elephants were much used in royal and religious

ceremonials, so it is around temples and palaces that most

trained elephants now live. The ride up to the Amber Palace near

Jaipur in the swaying howdah of a patient giant in her best finery

including full face-paint is a never-to-be forgotten experience. But

then neither is encountering a procession of elephants on their

way to work along a road carrying their packed lunches of leaves

and sugar cane. Sadly the number of elephants in Asian cities is

declining because traffic pollution weakens their lungs, but a better

option is an elephant-back photo safari in the game reserves.

Sri Lanka definitely has some trump cards in the elephant

stakes. The ‘inland capital’ of Kandy has up to 50 elephants

who amble round the town with their mahouts collecting fodder

or clearing rubbish when they are not rehearsing for Asia’s

most spectacular festival, the Kandy Perahera. Every night for

almost two weeks, usually in August, increasing numbers of

brilliantly liveried elephants take part in wonderful torchlight

street processions accompanied by glittering troupes of dancers,

musicians and acrobats. On the last night, the Temple Tusker

himself bears the sacred relic of the Buddha’s tooth in a jewelled

casket. Being a religious festival, its actual date is decided annually

only in January according to moon phases and other auspicious

signs, so it isn’t really geared for mass tourism.

Some southern Sri Lankan resorts offer elephant-back safaris,

and so does the north of Thailand where there are forest work

camps around Chiang Mai in particular where you can see the

‘workers’ practising their skills at rolling and stacking logs – or

football. Getting very busy and commercialised now is the Elephant

Festival at Surin, north-east Thailand, (always held on the third

Saturday of November) where there are mock battles, tugs of war

and elephant polo.

The resorts of both Thailand and Sri Lanka may have young

elephants visiting the hotels, who often walk to work by splashing

along in the sea. One favourite is a mature female called Monica,

who specialises in birthdays and weddings at the beach hotels in

the Wadduwa area of south-west Sri Lanka. In her sequinned red

satin gown, she makes a wonderful bridesmaid/backdrop and gets

herself into every picture. The only way to top the sensation of

being picked up in the gentle coils of Monica’s trunk is to visit the

Elephant Orphanage at Pinnawella. Here you can watch the babies

being bottle-fed, then see over 50 elephants of all ages pushing

and squealing with glee as they charge down to the river for their

twice-daily bath, which is clearly as much fun for them as it is for

their delighted visitors.

>>


AIR UGANDA FLIGHT SCHEDULE

For any information contact your preferred Travel Agent or our Sales & Reservation Office on +256 (0) 412 165 555 in KAMPALA

ENTEBBE – NAIROBIFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 202

NAIROBI – ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

ENTEBBE – JUBAFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

JUBA – ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

ENTEBBE – ZANZIBARFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

ZANZIBAR – ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

ENTEBBE – DAR ES SALAAMFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

DAR ES SALAAM – ENTEBBE FLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

ENTEBBE – MOMBASAFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

MOMBASA – ENTEBBE

U7 20206:30 Hrs08:30 Hrs

07:40 Hrs09:40 Hrs

Monday – FridaySaturday

U7 204 18:30 Hrs 19:40 Hrs Daily

U7 203U7 203U7 205

08:15 Hrs10:15 Hrs20:20 Hrs

09:25 Hrs11:25 Hrs21:30 Hrs

Monday – FridaySaturday

U7 120U7 120

10:25 Hrs15:00 Hrs

11:25 Hrs16:00 Hrs

Monday – ThursdayFriday & Sunday

U7 120 12:15 Hrs 13:15 Hrs Saturday

U7 119U7 119

12:05 Hrs17:00 Hrs

13:05 Hrs18:00 Hrs

Monday – Thursday

U7 119 13:55 Hrs 14:55 Hrs

U7 340 14:00 Hrs 16:25 Hrs Tuesday & Thursday

U7 341 16:55 Hrs 19:30 Hrs Tuesday & Thursday

U7 320U7 320

10:45 Hrs15:30 Hrs

12:30 Hrs17:15 Hrs Sunday

Monday – Friday

U7 321U7 321

13:05 Hrs 14:50 Hrs19:35 Hrs

Monday – Friday17:50 Hrs

U7 340U7 340

14:00 Hrs09:30 Hrs


Tuesday & Thursday

FLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCYU7 341U7 341

17:30 Hrs13:00 Hrs


Tuesday & Thursday

ENTEBBE – KIGALIFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

KIGALI – ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 350U7 352

08:00 Hrs09:00 Hrs

07:45Hrs08:45 Hrs Saturday

Monday – Thursday

U7 351U7 353

08:15 Hrs09:15 Hrs

10:00 Hrs11:00 Hrs Saturday

Monday – Thursday

Sunday

Daily

Friday & SundaySaturday

11:55 Hrs SundayU7 340 09:30 Hrs

U7 341 12:25 Hrs 15:00 Hrs Sunday

U7 352 16:15 Hrs 16:15 Hrs Friday & Sunday

U7 353 16:30 Hrs 18:15 Hrs Friday & Sunday


Knee to chest: Bend forward slightly. Clasp hands around the left knee and hug it to your chest. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Keeping hands around knee, slowly let it down. Alternate legs. Repeat 10 times.

Shoulder roll: Hunch shoulders forward, then upward, then backward, then downward, using a gentle, circular motion.

Shoulder stretch: Reach right hand over left shoulder. Place left hand behind right elbow and gently press elbow toward shoulder. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.

Arm curl: Start with arms held at a 90-degree angle: elbows down, hands out in front. Raise hands up to chest and back down, alternating hands. Do this exercise in 30-second intervals.

Forward flex: With both feet on the floor and stomach held in, slowly bend forward and walk your hands down the front of your legs towards your ankles. Hold the stretch for 15 seconds and slowly sit back up.

Overhead stretch: Raise both hands straight up over your head. With one hand, grasp the wrist of the opposite hand and gently pull to one side. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.

Ankle circles: Lift feet off the floor, draw a circle with the toes, simultaneously moving one foot clockwise and the other foot counterclockwise. Reverse circles. Do each direction for 15 seconds. Repeat if desired.

Neck roll: With shoulders relaxed, drop ear to shoulder and gently roll neck forward and to the other side, holding each position about five seconds. Repeat five times.

Other Tips for a Comfortable Flight

For your own comfort try • and travel light.

Wear loose clothing and • elasticated stockings made of natural fibre.

Increase your normal • intake of water and only if need be, drink alcohol but in moderation.

Use moisturising cream to • keep your skin from drying out.

Take off shoes in the • plane to prevent your feet from swelling up or wear shoes that will cope with expanding ankles.

Avoid heavy meals during • the flight.

Short walks once every • two hours are excellent for circulation.

Try to touch your toes • when waiting in the aisle to stretch your hamstrings.

On arrival at your • destination, have a hot shower or a relaxing bath.

On arrival a quick jog, • brisk walk, or a vigorous scrub will help stimulate your circulation.

These gentle exercises, which you can carry out easily during your flight, will help blood circulation and reduce any tiredness or stiffness that may result from sitting in one place for several hours. Check with your doctor first if you have any health conditions which might be adversely affected by exercise.

Foot pumps:

Start with both heels on the

floor and point feet upward

as high as you can. Then

put both feet flat on the

floor. Then lift heels high,

keeping the balls of your feet

on the floor. Continue cycle

in 30-second intervals.

Knee lifts:

Lift leg with knees bent while

contracting your thigh muscles.

Alternate legs. Repeat 20 to 30

times for each leg.

HEALTHY TRAVELLING


HEALTHY TRAVELLING ROUTE MAP


AIR UGANDA CONTACTS AND OFFICES

Kampala Sales Office:

Tel: +250 (0) 412 165 555 /

+256 (0) 312 165 555

Email: [email protected]

Fax: +256 (0) 414 258 267

Jubilee Insurance Centre, 1st Floor,

Podium Level,Plot 14 Parliment Avenue,

P. O. Box 36591, Kampala, Uganda.

Dar es Salaam Sales Office:

Tel: +255 (0) 222 133 331/5/6

+255 (0) 783 111 992


c/o Holiday Africa Tours and Safaris

(Opp. Habib African Bank)

Indiragandhi Street,

P.O. Box 22636

Dar es Salaam, Tanzania.

Nairobi / Mombasa Sales Office:

Tel: +254 (0)20 313 933


5th Floor, Jubilee Insurance Building,

Wabera Street, Nairobi, Kenya.

Zanzibar Sales Office:

Tel: +255 (0) 242 233 506/7


Cine Afrique Cinema Malindi

PO Box 251, Zanzibar, Tanzania.

Juba Sales Office:

Tel: +256 (0) 477 153 912


Hai Suk Street, (Opp. the Mosque)

Juba, Sudan.

Kigali Sales Office:

Tel: +250 (0) 252 577 926/

+250 (0) 252 577 928 /

+250 (0) 788 380 926


Office No. 26 UTC (Union Trade

Centre) Building, Town Centre.

Kigali, Rwanda.

Head Office:

Tel: +256 (0) 414 258 262/4

+256 (0) 417 717 401


Fax: +256 (0) 414 500 932

Meridiana Africa Airlines (U) Ltd

Plot 11/13, Lower Kololo Terrace

P.O.Box 36591, Kampala, Uganda.

PLEASE NOTE :

After working hours on

weekdays (17:45hrs - 21:00hrs),

Saturday (14:00hrs - 21:00hrs)

and Sunday (07:30hrs - 21:00hrs)

For assistance please call our Entebbe

ticketing office on

Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485

+256 (0) 417 717 222

Entebbe International Airport

(Ticketing Office):

Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485

+256 (0) 417 717 222

Email:[email protected]

[email protected]

2nd Floor, Passenger Terminal

Building, Entebbe, Uganda.


LandUganda is a compact country, with an area of 236,580 square kilometres – roughly the size of Great Britain.

ClimateAlthough situated on the equator, Uganda’s relatively high altitude tempers the heat, and humidity is generally low. Throughout the year sunshine averages about 6 to 10 hours a day. There are two rainy seasons: the main long rains, which start late in February and end in April, and the short rains, which start in October and run until about the middle of December. The region around Lake Victoria, however, receives rain at almost any time of the year.

TopographyIt is located on the equator, within the eastern plateau region of the African continent and between the eastern and western ridges of the Great Rift Valley. Near the borders several mountain masses stand out strikingly from the plateaux.

EconomyUganda is blessed with fertile soils that support a wide variety of food and export crops, both annual and perennial. Agriculture is the dominant sector of Uganda’s economy. The major traditional export crops are coffee, cotton, tea, horticulture, tobacco and sugar cane, while groundnuts, maize, beans, sorghum and millet have emerged in recent years as cash crops for the peasant farmers.

LanguageEnglish is the official language and is also the medium of instruction in Uganda’s education system, from primary school up to university level. Swahili is also spoken. There are some 30 indigenous languages spoken in the rural areas. The most common of these are Luganda and Luo.

Electric supplyAll installations are of British standard and appliances should be fitted with the square, three-pin plugs of British specifications. The voltage is 240 volts, 50 Hz for domestic use. The voltage fluctuates continually, however, and proper surge protectors are advisable for any expensive equipment.

TimeUganda is three hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Timeremains constant throughout the year.

PeopleThe people are warm, friendly, and full of humour. They are anxious to make friends with visitors and are continually asking guests whether they are comfortable and enjoying themselves. A large number of people speak English.

ExcursionsUganda is beginning to develop an excellent tourist infrastructure, with first-rate roads and communication facilities. Uganda’s national game, forest and recreational parks are indeed some of the spectacular showpieces Africa has to offer. They do have regulations regarding off-the-road driving, game watching, and so on, which are clearly stated at the entrance gates of parks or on leaflets supplied by the tourist offices. Mountaineering safaris to the Ruwenzori Mountains in the western Rift Valley are now becoming a favourite Ugandan expedition. Similar safaris can also be organised to climb Mount Elgon in the east, sharing the border with Kenya.

HotelsThere are international-standard hotels in Entebbe, Kampala and Jinja, as well as in many of the smaller towns. Camping, rustic bush camps and guest houses are also available. The Kampala Sheraton, the Serena Kampala, the Grand Imperial, and the Nile Hotel, all in the national’s capital are by the best. There are many other less expensive, but quite nice hotels in the city. Outside Kampala, most towns also have a variety of moderately priced and budget hotels.

Banking hoursThere is a wide range of banks in Uganda, particularly in Kampala. Their hours are generally from 0830 to 1400 on weekdays, and Saturdays from 0830 to 1200. Forex bureaux keep longer hours – 0900 to 1700 on weekdays and 0900 to 1300 on Saturdays. ATMs are available in the larger cities.

CommunicationsTelephone, Telex, fax and airmail services connect Kampala to all parts of the world. Services are available at the General Post Office and its many branches, as well as in the main hotels. International direct dialling is available and now there are a number of Internet cafes.

Medical servicesUganda has good health services, with some good government and private hospitals and clinics in the major cities. Air rescue services are available.

CurrencyUganda Shilling (UGX). Notes are in denominations of UGX 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5,000 and 1,000. Coins are in denominations of UGX 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. You can change money at banks and hotels. Although the forex bureaux usually have better exchange rates.

Credit cardsInternational credit cards are accepted in major hotels and shops.

Working hoursShops and businesses are generally open from 0830 to 1730 on weekdays, with a lunch break between 1300 and 1400. Some businesses are open on Saturday, at least until midday. Small, local shops or kiosks on the side of many roads are generally open much later, until about 2130 and on weekends and holidays as well; they stock basic food and household items.

Public Holidays

20101 January New Year’s Day26 January Liberation Day8 March International Women’s Day2 April Good Friday5 April Easter Monday1 May Labour Day3 June Martyrs’ Day9 June National Heroes’ Day11 September Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan)9 October Independence Day17 November Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice)25 December Christmas Day26 December Boxing Day

Note:The two Muslim holidays, Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximate.

CustomsBesides personal effects, a visitor may import duty-free spirits (including liquors) or wine up to one litre, perfume and toilet water up to half a litre and 270 grammes of tobacco or 200 cigarettes. Other imported items, not exceeding US$100 may be brought in duty free and without an import licence, provided they are not prohibited or restricted goods, are for personal use, and are not for resale.

Note: A special permit is required to export game trophies.

Health requirementsVisitors from areas infected with yellow fever and cholera required certificates on inoculation. All visitors are advised to take an antimalarial prophylactic beginning two weeks before their arrival and continuing for six weeks after their departure. A gamma globulin injection provides some protection against possible infection by hepatitis and is well worth taking.

Visa and immigration requirementsVisa applications may be obtained at Uganda diplomatic missions. Two photographs are required for visas, which are usually issued within 24 hours. Visas are also available at the country’s entry points. Check with the Uganda diplomatic mission in your country if visa is required as some countries are exempted.

Taxi servicesTaxis are immediately available at Entebbe International Airport. They can also be found outside most hotels in Kampala and at most of the country’s major centres. All don’t have meters, so make sure the fare is negotiated in advance.

Car rentalSeveral firms operate car hire services in Kampala. Vehicles may be hired with or without driver. For trips outside the city it is possible to hire insured cars appropriate for the trip (a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a driver-translator is recommended).

Entebbe International AirportThe main point of entry is Entebbe International Airport, about a 30-minute drive south of the capital, Kampala. Although modest, the modern airport does provide automated passenger facilities, currency exchange, postal services, banking facilities, telephoned, duty-free shops, gift shops and a restaurant and bar.

SecurityThe same rules apply for Kampala as for almost any city anywhere.Becareful and take the usual precautions to safeguard yourself and your belongings. Do not leave valuables in your car. Walking at night in all major centres is reasonably safe.

TIPS FOR THE TRAVELLER IN UGANDA


2

23

7

26

69

56 7 2

9

8

3 725

4 16

8

59 1 6

9 238

6

26

27

29

28

24

25

232221

20

19

161514

13

12

11

9

7 81 2 3 54 6

10

17 18

Clues Across

1. Sore pooch turns to foretell the future (9)

9. Regarding in fabled Old King for mixed race (6)

10. Stand to this and get noticed (9)

11. Set on fire in sign items. (6)

12. There’s many of these blocks in this magazine! (9)

13. Bent and yellow, with a dangerous skin! (6)

17. Portray within a tractor (3)

19. Music that could make angel remit charm (10, 5)

20. Move pit and earn a gratuity (3)

21. One that gets into the Pop Charts (6)

25. Even a rough male could be called this! (9)

26. Shows contempt for mixed soul Financial Times (6)

27. You could find one on the beach, or evil fears

stirred (4, 5)

28. Two girls sing these at Festive time (6)

29. Offering to make less hard? (9)

Clues Down

2. Beat in race within trout ranges (6)

3. A spore reforms into musicals (6)

4. Provides for felines? (6)

5. Partner-to-be with expectations? (11, 4)

6. A running order favouring little weight (9)

7. Suitable game for a loner? (9)

8. A meeting of minds? (9)

14. New kid on the block has novel dial (5, 4)

15. Gout in car produces historic battle (9)

16. Speak low? (5, 4)

17. G.I. on this creature is huge (3)

18. A gentle knock from the faucet (3)

22. Be there and take notice (6)

23. Restore and go (6)

24. Vet ran in confusion for a drink here (6)

CROSSWORD PUZZLE & SUDOKU

Place a number from 1 to 9

in every empty cell so that

each row, each column and

each 3x3 box contains all the

numbers from 1 to 9. No

number can appear twice in a

row, column or 3x3 box.

Do not guess – you can work

it out by a process of

elimination.

Crossword

Answers across1. Horoscope; 9. Creole; 10. Attention; 11. Ignite; 12. Paragraph; 13. Banana; 17. Act; 19. Regimental march; 20. Tip; 21. Single; 25. Gentleman; 26. Flouts; 27. Life saver; 28. Carols; 29. Tendering

Answers down2. Outran; 3. Operas; 4. Caters; 5. Prospective wife; 6. Programme; 7. Solitaire; 8. Telepathy; 14. Fresh face; 15. Agincourt; 16. Small talk; 17. Ant; 18. Tap; 22. Attend; 23. Repair; 24. Tavern

Sudoku

LAKE VICTORIA SERENAR E S O R T

A WORLD AWAY FROM THE CITYJust 15 Kilometres from Kampala and 35 Kilometres from Entebbe, on the shores of lake victoria, rests a

resort of ultimate beauty, tranquility and peace. This newest addition to the Serena family is the perfect resort to unwind and escape the stresses of city life.

PO Box 37761, Kampala, Uganda, Lweza-Kigo road, Off Entebbe road or Call +256 41 7121000, Fax +256 41 7121550 e-mail: [email protected]

The central lounge and reception The rooms and suites

Maisha Mind Body and Spirit Spa The pool and garden view

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Asante 002

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