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An Art in itselfwww.vins-cremants.lu
Dit project werd gecofinancierd in het kader van het leader+ initiatief door het fonds FeOGa, het luxemburgse ministerie van landbouw, wijnbouw en rurale Ontwikkeling en de gemeenten van het miselerland.
Deze publicatie werd uitgegeven door de commissie voor de Promotie van de wijnen & crémants van luxemburg.www.vins-cremants.lu
teksten: romina calò
Fotografie: andrés lejonaFoto’s op pagina’s 28, 29 rechterzijde, 35 rechterzijde en 37 zijn van carlo rinnen
concept & layout: a | part, luxemburg
Druk: imprimerie centrale, luxemburg
met bijzondere dank aan de minister van landbouw, wijnbouw en rurale Ontwikkeling Fernand Boden, de staatssecretaris van landbouw, wijnbouw en rurale Ontwikkeling Octavie modert, marc weyer, Gilles estgen en Philippe eschenauer van het leader + miselerland, romina calò, andrés lejona, thierry corona, claude Bertemes, thorunn egilsdóttir, léa linster, enrico lunghi, Dominique rizzi, Frank en andy schleck, claude schmitz, carole tompers, François valentiny, raymond weydert, christiane Blum, Jeannot Bonifas, serge Fischer, marc Kuhn, andré mehlen, Jean-Paul risch en Jerry scheuer van het institut viti-vinicole, romain Batya, abi Duhr, Bénédicte ernst, claude Gaasch, Josy Gloden, rudy Joostens, elisa Kern, andré Klein, ruth latin-Herber, romain mondloch, claude moyen, Dan neven, carlo rinnen, tom schumacher, anne tarin, de leden van de Promotiecommissie en het solidariteitsfonds voor de wijnbouw en al de luxemburgse wijnbouwers.
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Today the Grand-Duchy of Luxembourg
is no longer reticent in disclosing to the wider
world a fact that twenty years ago was known
only to a few well-informed connoisseurs: this
is not only a good place to live, but also a good
place to enjoy wine – wine which has been
lovingly produced in the Moselle Valley for
centuries.
The passion of man, the very special soil
and the characteristic climate of this ‘grape
paradise’, all makes for a fruitful marriage.
It is now difficult to ignore this wine-producing
region which is gaining in reputation year by
year, and which uses both ancient know-how
and the latest technical innovations to its
advantage. Luxembourg wines and crémants
are today proudly exported across many
borders. Opportunities abound for consumers
to rediscover an ancestral cru or a more recent
grape variety. Whether it be a large public
gathering, a special event or a more intimate
evening encounter, the range of Luxembourg
grape varieties has something to suit every
occasion. You will be completely seduced by
the range of Luxembourg wines and crémants.
And with a grape variety to suit every palate,
Luxembourg, home to good livingNever has wiNe flowed so freely, Never was the hour of glory so sweet to savour, Never were the “temples” iN its hoNour, the wiNe bars, restauraNts aNd cafés, so prolific across the laNd of oNe of the smallest couNtries iN europe.
5
they can be appreciated as a drink but also
as a tasting experience.
The nine main grape varieties (Riesling,
Pinot noir, Pinot blanc, Pinot gris, Gewürz-
traminer, Auxerrois, Rivaner, Elbling and
Chardonnay) plus the crémants from the Grand-
Duchy will guide the reader through these
voluptuous and joyous pages. Is there any
more agreeable way of penetrating into the
heart of an area still so unknown?
the moselle valley offers welcoming accommodation for all ages, as depicted by this youth hostel.
the young generation of wine growers are enthusiastic about the future.
7
WInEs & CRéMAnTs
Eleven Luxembourg personalities have agreed to join us and answer our
questions. specialists or just wine lovers, each of them presents their favourite
variety in their own words. This is followed by an overview of the “speciality”
wines, some words on recent developments in vinification techniques and
a description of the quality control processes carried out in Luxembourg.
the grape varieties 8speciality wiNes 28luxembourg, betweeN traditioN aNd moderNity 30appellatioN coNtrôlée iN luxembourg 31
8
carole tompers iNtroduces us to the
RIEsLInGAromas: Citrus fruits, apricot, apple, pear, quince,
mirabelle plum, melon, white peach, exotic fruits,
spices, mineral notes, lime tree, eucalyptus, acacia,
orange blossom, elderberry flowers, petrol.
9
carole tompers, geNeral secretary of luxembourg for busiNess
We are proud of Riesling
Which of the grape varieties produced in Luxembourg is your favourite?
although i prefer red wines, my favourite of the grape varieties produced
in luxembourg is definitely riesling.
Can you describe this grape variety? Which of its characteristics do you
like best?
it’s not for nothing that it’s called “the King of wines” in luxembourg.
it has this rare ability to combine both sweetness and acidity in perfect harmony.
to drink riesling is to start from the mineral notes and arrive at the most fruity
notes, while passing through this spectrum of acidity. it is a very rich wine.
i also admire its ability to withstand even the harshest of winters. frost or no
frost, it always delivers a good wine. the weather conditions last year were ideal
for the production of an even fruitier riesling, just as i like it. i love this taste
of mango and passion fruit whereas in the drier rieslings, you can detect more
citrus aromas.
Is there a particular moment that you associate with tasting this grape?
in our profession, when we are working abroad we introduce our country
by placing great emphasis on the quality of life in luxembourg. offering the
opportunity to taste riesling is one way of demonstrating this quality of life –
by marrying the practical with the enjoyable. it’s one of the tools that we
always take with us. we are very proud of this prestige luxembourg prod-
uct and we have no qualms about letting people taste it; it’s almost
as if we were sharing a little of the grand-duchy way of life. reactions are
generally very positive. our contacts all know about riesling, but they
think of it more in connection with alsace or germany and it is always
a pleasant surprise for them to experience riesling from luxembourg.
and sometimes we even encounter a great connoisseur, who already
appreciates its qualities.
With which dish or food is it best enjoyed, in your opinion?
personally i think riesling complements grilled dishes very well -
the powerful flavours of grilled meat and sausages. in my mind i associate
it with good weather and sunshine, even in winter. Quite recently
i discovered that it was the perfect accompaniment to spicy chinese food.
very spicy dishes are counter-balanced by the coolness of this grape
variety. but i am confident that riesling will introduce me to even more
new discoveries...
The wine-grower’s view on riesling
“The King of wines” is the best known grape variety.
Rieslings are among the greatest white wines in the
world. The Moselle valley in Luxembourg offers
excellent cultivation conditions with its southerly
aspect, sloping hillsides, significant sunlight hours
and ideally suited terroir. Depending on the soil,
Riesling can be more mineral, richer or fruitier. It is
the grape variety that reacts the most to the terroir
and the climate over the whole year. For optimum
maturity, and well-structured wines, the ideal
weather pattern just prior to the grape harvest is an
alternating rhythm of hot days and cooler nights,
something which the Moselle valley does perfectly.
Even when the summers are particularly warm, the
Luxembourg soil retains its humidity very well. The
Riesling grapes are light green, gilded with yellow,
sprinkled with reddish-brown patches on reaching
full maturity. This gives a characteristic balanced
bouquet that is typical of this wine which, more
than any other grape variety, proudly discloses its
origin. Riesling is also the best grape variety from
which to produce late harvest and ice wines, as it
always retains sufficient freshness and acidity.
10
thierry coroNa iNtroduces us to the
PInOT nOIRAromas: Raspberry, wild strawberry, blackcurrant,
morello cherry, black cherry, blueberry, red currant,
blackberry, apple, caramel, vanilla.
thierry coroNa, sommelierpresideNt of the associatioN of europeaN sommeliers
I like to amaze my customers with Pinot noir
Which of the grape varieties produced in Luxembourg is your favourite?
pinot noir
Can you describe this grape variety? Which of its characteristics do you
like best?
pinot noir is an extraordinary grape variety which can be very different
depending on the way it is produced. i think that it is very well suited to the
unique climate of the grand-duchy of luxembourg. it can be made into white
wine, by pressing and without any maceration, so you end up with a true white
wine, with a beautiful pale yellow colour with silver and even “onion skin”
reflections. we can detect notes of apples, a little over-ripe even. it leaves
a sense of lingering liveliness in the mouth. the longer you leave it to mature,
the more it will take on the aromas of ripening apples. when vinified into a rosé
after a short maceration, a light colour is obtained giving a very pale rosé with
hints of raspberries and wild strawberries. finally, longer maceration periods
yield a true red that can be further diversified depending on whether
it matures in old oak or new oak barrels, and for how long. this gives
a complex spectrum of aromas of wild blackberry and blackcurrant,
plus a hint of vanilla, if placed in oak.
Is there a particular moment that you associate with tasting this
grape?
personally i have the most fun with this grape. i love to astound
my customers with it: white, rosé or red – sometimes they go really crazy
for it and they’re always very surprised. it’s a grape variety to enjoy.
when i organise tastings of red pinot noir some of my customers think
they’re tasting a robust burgundy.
With which dish or food is it best enjoyed, in your opinion?
as a young white wine it goes very well with shell fish and fish.
its mineral quality is very pronounced, as the roots of the vines extend
down very deep. the more it ages, the better it complements fish dishes
in sauce and even white meats. when vinified into white wine, it is a very
adaptable grape variety. pinot noir rosé is a light and sophisticated wine,
best enjoyed with grilled meats and grilled fish. it’s an excellent wine for
quenching a summer thirst. we could draw up a full wine list of reds and
whites from pinot noir alone. it is a complete wine. the luxembourg
pinot noir is truly a grape that embodies its own terroir. it is not “forced”
then placed in a barrel to restrict its flavours. we can smell that the roots have
licked the soil. and this is what i look for – an identity and the pure minerality of
the soil. this is part of the richness we have in europe. we do not manufacture
wine. the wine-grower waits for the result of nature’s own work, with only
a little helping hand from us.
The wine-grower’s view on PinoT noir
Pinot noir, Pinot gris and Pinot blanc are all part of
the same family. In the vineyard the similarly shaped
leaves and grape bunches make it difficult to tell the
three types apart. It is only just before the harvest
that the grapes change colour and reveal their true
identities. The skin of the Pinot noir grape is very
dark, almost black, whereas the pulp and juice are
clear. The wine owes the intensity of its red colour to
the length of time the fruit skins are steeped in the
grape juice. Pinot noir is traditionally made into rosé
or red wine, but for the last few years it has also
been vinified into white wine. In all instances it is
important to select grapes that are perfectly ripe.
Vinification takes place either in stainless steel vats
or in oak barrels which smooth out the tannins and
give the Pinot noir its complex aromas.
12
thoruNN iNtroduces us to the
PInOT bLAnCAromas: Pineapple, citrus fruit, mirabelle plum,
quince, white peach, apricot, pear, green apple,
exotic fruits, dry fruits, white flowers, hints of menthol,
beeswax, browned butter, frangipane.
13
thoruNN, siNger aNd tv preseNter
Pinot blanc is a meal in itself
Which of the grape varieties produced in Luxembourg is your favourite?
i come from iceland but i know all the luxembourg wines. you have a wine
culture here that doesn’t exist in iceland. for years there wine was too
expensive as there was no wine tradition. over the last ten years or so,
however, the icelandic people are starting to learn about wine, to taste it and
enjoy it. i adore chardonnay because it is a soft wine, it suits my personality
and there’s nothing quite like starting off an evening sipping a good glass of
wine. but the family’s favourite is definitely pinot blanc.
Can you describe this grape variety? Which of its characteristics
do you like best?
pinot blanc is not as smooth as chardonnay; it’s slightly more
aggressive but still very tasty. for me, it’s a pleasant wine which has
a nice feel on the tongue.
Is there a particular moment, a memory or a type of food that you
associate with tasting this grape?
personally i do not find that wine goes well with food. i prefer
to taste a wine on its own rather than to mix it with different foods,
even though i fully understand that wine can be a perfect complement
to food. for me, wine is a meal in itself, and if i have a glass of wine over
dinner, i tend to just nibble. always savouries, even if the wine is fruity.
as far as pinot blanc is concerned, it was mainly my sister who converted
me. she used to live in luxembourg, met her danish husband here and
then moved to copenhagen. Now every time i go and visit her she asks
me to take her two bottles of pinot blanc. it has become the family wine.
How is it best enjoyed, in your opinion?
i would say with my lover, lost somewhere in a castle in the north
of the country, at sunset. it’s a very romantic vision. wine is the very best
of addictions – mine in any case. a good glass of wine creates a wonderful
atmosphere: you sip it, you let it gradually go to your head and then finally the
magic of bacchus commences: “i love the sweet lies that bacchus tells me”.
The wine-grower’s view onPinoT blanc
Originating from the same grape family as its Pinot
gris and Pinot noir cousins, the Pinot blanc fruit is
yellowy-green when ripe. When fermented in a stain-
less steel vat in the traditional way, its lively charac-
ter is emphasised by a more pronounced freshness
than in the Pinot gris, similar to a Riesling. Domi-
nant aromas are of pear and yellow fruit. It can also
be fermented in barrel, which results in very differ-
ent wines impregnated with strong vanilla flavours.
Due to its elegance and freshness, Pinot blanc is
often used to make crémant sparkling wines.
14
eNrico luNghi iNtroduces us to the
PInOT GRIsAromas: Apricot, yellow peach, quince, mirabelle plum,
pear, citrus fruits, mango, passion fruit, acacia, nutmeg,
fig, date, honey, toast, tea, mint, spices,
dried fruits, mature fruits.
eNrico luNghi, geNeral director of the musée d‘art moderNe graNd-duc JeaN, luxembourg
Pinot gris is the mirror of the Moselle
Which of the grape varieties produced in Luxembourg is your favourite?
pinot gris is one of my favourite luxembourg grape varieties, but as a
general rule i am very proud of our wines to the point that, without exception,
i serve them to our foreign hosts at all our exhibition previews. we always vary
the grape varieties and the domains so as not to favour any one in particular.
if you’re respecting the tradition of offering guests a drink when they attend
previews, you might as well take the opportunity to offer them something that
they don’t necessarily know and which is worth tasting. we have chosen to give
particular prominence to luxembourg wines.
Which of its characteristics do you like best?
i think the pinot gris is subtle and light while still retaining very
balanced and soft aromas. i like to drink it chilled but not too cold. in my
opinion it suits the moselle valley, or at least the idea that we like to have
of it – a soft and rich region that is more diverse and harmonious than
anywhere else in the country, while remaining authentic and influenced by
the land. there is a softness of life in the moselle valley that i value greatly.
Is there a particular philosophy that you associate with tasting
this grape?
what i love about wine in general is that it is like an art. first of
all there’s a tradition that has to be learnt, a technique that has to be
mastered. then there’s hard work, inspiration, the ability to know when
to take risks and how to make firm decisions at any given moment. an artist
may experience intense periods followed by less fruitful ones, just as the
same wine may have a good or a bad year. it is over the long term that
reputations are made. one should never judge an artist by a single work,
but over an entire evolution. and the same goes for great bottles of wine.
How is it best enjoyed, in your opinion?
i rarely drink outside of meal times so for me pinot gris is ideally enjoyed
with lunches or dinners with friends, with a good wholesome meal of traditional
luxembourg or even alsatian fare, as my wife is from alsace. the fact that
pinot gris is a light wine means that it is a nice counterbalance to these heavy,
rich dishes. its finesse makes it the ideal partner for these social occasions.
The wine-grower’s view on PinoT gris
In the past the third member of the Pinot fam-
ily was not widely planted in the Moselle Val-
ley. but with the first land consolidations in
the 1960s, its cultivation became more wide-
spread. The moderate acidity and rich aromas
in Pinot gris made it an instant hit. Delight-
fully creamy, it offers a range of fruity aro-
mas, depending on its degree of maturity,
from quince to exotic fruits and raisins.
Thanks to its perfect balance, Pinot gris
remains the most popular grape variety in
Luxembourg today, its versatility making it
an easy wine to accompany food.
15
16
fraNçois valeNtiNy iNtroduces us to the
GEWüRzTRAMInERAromas: Rose, lychee, peach, apricot, melon, pear,
orange, grapefruit, raspberry, pineapple, preserves,
liquorice, verbena, honey, toast.
17
fraNçois valeNtiNy, architect
Gewürztraminer also delights the eyes
Which of the grape varieties produced in Luxembourg is your favourite?
my grandparents were wine growers in remerschen. i did everything
i could to leave my village, but it was no good (laughs). even today if you’re not
a wine grower you are nothing. so i kept a piece of land. when i lived in vienna
i particularly enjoyed drinking muscat. so when i returned to luxembourg i tried
to keep this attachment by cultivating gewürztraminer because it is the closest
in style to muscat.
Which of its characteristics do you like best?
white wine should be fruity and chilled. as far as my gewürz-
traminer is concerned the problem is that working on the vines is not
always compatible with my profession, which of course remains my
priority. i want to get out into the vineyards, but it’s not always possible.
wine, and gewürztraminer in particular, needs a lot of attention. you have
to choose the grape bunches, sort them, and i’m not always there to do
it. in addition gewürztraminer is much more difficult than many other
grape varieties and it requires a great deal of concentration from the
outset. my ‘gewürz’ is certainly not the best, but i am still happy with it.
Do you associate a particular philosophy with the tasting of this
grape?
my approach to wine is constantly changing. our tastes and ideas
are in a state of permanent flux – it’s the proof of a mind that is open to
the outside world. but a good wine is of the utmost importance: drinking
bad wine is like saying i don’t deserve the best wine. by economising
we could die without having known how to enjoy it. it’s important not
to forget that one day we will die, and never to lose sight of that fact:
it also enables us to choose the right path in life.
How is it best enjoyed, in your opinion?
i am influenced by the appearance of some wines. whenever i see a white
wine in a transparent glass bottle, to me it immediately signifies dry white wine,
and for me gewürztraminer should be in a yellow glass bottle. gewürztraminer
is linked to an image that influences my style. the same goes for wine glasses.
an amber-coloured gilded wine glass gives a totally different taste to white
wine. today’s world is no longer aesthetic, only functionality counts, which in
my opinion is a shame. if taste changes with age, the pleasure of drinking a soft,
chilled and fruity wine in a gilded bottle and served in a sophisticated baroque
glass never changes. so this wine also delights the eyes.
The wine-grower’s view on gewürzTraminer
Gewürztraminer is a highly perfumed wine
with a dominant nose. On tasting it exudes a
characteristic aroma of roses. It can be served
as an aperitif and also as a complement to foie
gras, brioche, cheese or dessert. It is also ide-
ally suited for vinification into late harvest and
straw wines. The elegance and sophistication
of Luxembourg “Traminer” sets it apart from
the rest, owing in large part to the local weather
conditions, but also to the perfect balance
between acidity, residual sugar and alcohol
content. The grapes are easily identified by
their pink to light red colour.
18
léa liNster iNtroduces us to the
AuxERROIsAromas: Melon, mirabelle plum, white flowers,
citrus fruits, lemon zest, passion fruit, kiwi, broom,
hints of menthol, acacia, honey, lime tree.
19
léa liNster, chef
Auxerrois isthe love of my life
Which of the grape varieties produced in Luxembourg is your favourite?
there are two which i particularly adore, but for different reasons.
riesling, of course, since it is the most noble, a wine par excellence. in 2007
i produced a riesling that i selected with love. it’s a wine that perfectly reflects
my character and my personality – generous and joyful. it also has a light
sparkle that makes you feel happy to be alive. this wine is best served with love,
as it says on the bottle! otherwise, amongst the other luxembourg varieties,
i am in love with auxerrois.
Can you describe this grape variety? Which of its characteristics do you
like best?
i am not interested in “analysing” a wine. what i prefer are the emotions
that rise up in me when i taste a wine. i love to delight my palate. i don’t like
those wines that leave a rather acrid taste in the mouth. i appreciate
smoothness without the sweetness, and a light acidity without the acid.
auxerrois tends to be smooth. it’s soft without being heavy. for me, a glass
of wine really is a treat, and the glass i drink it from must be at the correct
temperature, neither too hot nor too cold. it must be clean and clear and
develop a light condensation as the wine is poured in. Not too much and not
too little, just enough for it to be appetising. i like to see auxerrois in a
high-stemmed glass with quite a small bowl like the alsatian glasses,
and to have someone refilling mine frequently!
Is there a particular moment, a memory or a type of food that you
associate with tasting this grape?
auxerrois goes exceptionally well with smoked ham. this pairing creates
a second moment in the mouth which occurs when there is symbiosis between
the food and the accompanying wine. smoked ham enjoyed with an auxerrois at
the right temperature is magic. auxerrois combined with ham generates within
me a moment of warmth when i feel myself to be loved by these two products,
and i love them in return.
With which dish or food is it best enjoyed, in your opinion?
auxerrois goes very well with all those lightly smoked luxembourg dishes
such as neck of pork with beans. it’s a traditional dish, with smoked neck of
pork being very rustic in nature. i love this opulence, this smoothness without
it being overly sweet. auxerrois goes perfectly well with all those dishes that
require a little smoothness.
The wine-grower’s view on auxerrois
This well-known Luxembourg grape
variety has great potential for the
future. Luxembourg is also one of
the only countries in Europe to
have Auxerrois as a named grape
variety. Whereas in Alsace it tradi-
tionally comes under the Pinot
blanc designation, in Luxembourg
it has always been considered as a
unique grape variety. The terroir in
Luxembourg is rich and chalky,
and so ideally suited to the cultiva-
tion of Auxerrois. The plants are
fairly easy to work, despite the size
of the foliage in the months of June
and July. The delicious yellow
grapes, nicely ripe and very aro-
matic, produce fruity wines that
are most pleasant to drink as an
apéritif or with cheese. Thanks to
its excellent potential to mature,
Auxerrois is a wine that can easily
be stored for a few years before
drinking.
20
claude schmitz iNtroduces us to the
RIVAnERAromas: Muscat, apple, mirabelle plum,
apricot, lychee, wild peach.
21
claude schmitz, artist – Jewellery desigNer
Rivaner is quite simply great
Which of the grape varieties produced in Luxembourg is your
favourite?
although my true love is gewürztraminer and my jewellery is more
“gewürztraminer” style, my favourite grape variety on a day-to-day basis
is rivaner.
Can you describe this grape variety? Which of its characteristics
do you like best?
it’s an honest wine that is not at all pretentious and that can be
drunk every day. i love it because it has light mineral hints, very little
acidity and is just sufficiently flowery. it’s not a wine to be enjoyed only
occasionally, like full-bodied gewürztraminer, which i adore. some
wine-growers are today able to create something in a barrel that is more
complex, more flowery and more mellow and which acquires a huge
bouquet. it is even possible to enrich it with aromas in an oak barrel,
but then i don’t find the spontaneity of my rivaner. what i really like about
this grape variety is that it is a fairly simple wine, but not at all boring.
it has a frankness to it that i like. its basic quality means that it can be
tasted anywhere and at any time. i love it because it is quite simply great.
Is there a particular moment, a memory or a type of food that you
associate with tasting this grape?
a glass of rivaner reminds me of my childhood, of old smoke-filled
cafés with their games of skittles. i come from lenningen, a small village
in the moselle region where there were lots of old bachelors, farmers
and wine growers ….they used to meet at the corner café to drink a “patt
rivaner” from uniquely shaped glasses that are hard to find nowadays.
rivaner is a timeless grape variety, although today some have reinvented
it by putting it into oak barrels. i prefer the traditional rivaner.
With which dish or food is it best enjoyed, in your opinion?
Do you have a particular recipe which especially complements
this grape variety?
i adore it with everyday dishes but also with traditional luxem-
bourg dishes such as “hameschmier” or “ham, chips and salad”,
the typical dish served in the evening after a wedding or a christening.
in fact, i prefer a good table wine to a bad complex wine. it’s the wine
that i always have close at hand at home, ready to taste. sometimes
i even cook with it, although the purists consider that to be a sin.
The wine-grower’s view on rivaner
Rivaner, also known as “Riesling x sylvaner” or
Müller-Thurgau, shares the fate of Elbling, its
long-term companion in Luxembourg. These
were the main grape varieties grown in Luxem-
bourg until about thirty years ago. Cultivated
since the 1920s and destined initially for the
local market, it can be considered to be the
other traditional wine of the Grand-Duchy.
Rivaner produces fruity, flexible wines which
are very pleasant to drink when they are young.
both connoisseurs and novices delight in Rivan-
er’s light and joyful personality and its attrac-
tive, musky aromas.
22
claude bertemes iNtroduces us to the
ELbLInGAromas: Pomegranate, gooseberries, fresh almonds,
lemon, mirabelle plum, physalis.
23
claude bertemes, curator of the luxembourg ciNematheQue
Elbling is a pleasant, sociable wine
Which of the grape varieties produced in Luxembourg is your favourite?
i’m very fond of elbling and i think it’s a shame that in luxembourg
cultivation of this traditional grape variety has dwindled like balzac’s ‘peau
de chagrin’ since the second world war.
Which of its characteristics do you like best?
i love its strong character with its slightly acidulous taste. in a cinematic
context, if elbling were an actress, it would be bette davis – big mouth, very
temperamental, a bit of a sharp tongue but very courageous, the total opposite
to these “sugar babes” forged by hollywood. i view wine from an ethnological
perspective and from a sociological perspective, like pierre bourdieu, who
studies cultural and daily customs. for me, elbling is a pleasant, sociable grape
variety. it also acts as a memorial to the middle-ages, which i respect
intrinsically due to my work as a curator. there is a discrepancy now between
what wine used to represent in the past and what it represents today. what
was part of popular culture has now become part of an élite culture, reserved
for a public of connoisseurs. elbling, however, truly represents the wine of
yesterday, the source of pure hedonist pleasure. i like the fact that this wine
is not a victim of snobbery.
Is there a particular moment, a memory or a type of food that you
associate with tasting this grape variety?
coq au vin brings back many memories for me. but although my mother
always made it with red wine, i tried it with elbling. the result was even better;
there is a transparency of taste and a freshness that doesn’t come through
with red wine. this elemental but powerful wine easily withstands the
temperature test when used for cooking. by the glass, it is drunk leaning on
a bar, as i’ve always seen it done. it is an ideal accompaniment to the famous
“schueberfouer fësch”, the fried fish served every year at the “schueberfouer”
annual fair. this whole epicurean, simple and spontaneous world resists
a universe of more elaborate, conceited and sophisticated wines.
elbling is fundamentally pleasant.
How is it best enjoyed, in your opinion?
its refreshing aspect makes it particularly well suited to the warmer time
of the year. it’s perfect for making “maitrank”, a drink that folklore associates
with the month of may and celebrating spring. it is based on elbling, to which
you add cognac, white port, cinnamon and orange slices. leave it to stew for
24 hours. filter it and drink well-chilled. this makes me think that intoxication
has also been banished from civilised society. in the past it was politically
correct, as it was recognised as a source of pleasure and sometimes of
inspiration (rimbaud, for instance). but today it’s frowned upon. we shouldn’t
drink any more, just taste.
The wine-grower’s view on elbling
This historic northern European grape variety
has been around since Roman times. Today it is
only planted in the Moselle Valley. For many
years Elbling was grown in vast quantities for
the German market, where it was used by wine-
growers to create their sparkling wines. It has
historically contributed greatly to the prosperity
of Luxembourg vineyards. Elbling produces
lively, fresh and spirited wines with such subtle
and flowery aromas that some people refer to it
as “Riesling’s little brother”. Low in alcohol con-
tent, it is characterised especially by its fresh-
ness and is the archetypal bistro wine.
24
domiNiQue rizzi iNtroduces us to the
CHARDOnnAYAromas: Mineral notes, muscat, melon, white fruits,
quince, apples, pears, citrus fruits, grilled almonds,
butter, brioche, vanilla, white flowers.
25
The wine-grower’s view on charDonnaY
Chardonnay is certainly the world’s best-
known grape variety due to its reputation
as a great white wine and a wine that is
produced in huge quantities in the new
World countries (Australia, new zealand,
Chile, California, etc). It is through their
impetus that it has become a fashionable
wine. Even in the Moselle Valley, where it
has been discreetly produced since the
1980s, this grape variety varies consider-
ably in aromas depending on the terroir. It
can also develop flavours of exotic fruits or
floral aromas depending on the various
slopes where it is planted. best suited to
barrel fermentation, its tannins and vanilla
aromas are easily distinguished. Chardon-
nay is a well-structured base wine that is
ideal for producing crémant.
domiNiQue rizzi, sommeliermember of the “marQue NatioNale” committee of experts
Chardonnay is a chameleon variety
Which of the grape varieties produced in Luxembourg is your favourite?
chardonnay.
Which of its characteristics do you like best?
this variety should not be compared with the chardonnay that is to be
found everywhere else, as this is not a chardonnay that we are used to drink.
it has a very straightforward, very mineral character that may surprise more
than one connoisseur. however, chardonnay absorbs the qualities of the land;
here in luxembourg wines are nervous, vivacious, fresh but not acrid. it is
very fresh but perhaps with less volume as you would normally expect for
a chardonnay. it is this freshness that i love. yet it does not prevent the wine
having notes of grilled fruit, hazelnuts and bitter almonds. it is this vivacity that
makes chardonnay stand out from the other varieties grown in luxembourg.
although it is a recent arrival here, chardonnay can acquire a very lively
character provided one avoids, amongst other things, too long a period of oak
ageing. the wine must be vinified in the local way if it is to have a local character.
Is there a particular moment, a memory or a type of food that you
associate with tasting this grape variety?
when i think of chardonnay, i think of somewhere far away, of israel.
israel was one of the cradles of this variety, before it was brought to our lands
by returning crusaders. chardonnay is a multi-faceted variety. it can differ
greatly according to the terroir in which it is grown – sometimes vivacious,
sometimes voluminous, smooth, sensual, suave. i love this chameleon aspect,
which can adapt to each terroir, to each vinification and which each time
produces an individual essence and taste. to appreciate chardonnay we must
respect this local identity. this chameleon nature means chardonnay can appeal
to a very diverse range of clients, from those who are looking for straightforward
enjoyment of wine rather than any great complexity, to connoisseurs who will find
in chardonnay a greatness and a complexity that will lead them to explore this
world of such differing flavours.
How is it best enjoyed, in your opinion?
luxembourg has excellent freshwater fish. steamed pike-perch with
a little fennel tip to bring out the flavours goes extremely well with chardonnay.
it is best to avoid textures of meat or fish that are too fatty and go instead for
more simply prepared fish dishes, with an element of freshness such as fennel
or artichoke in order to create the paradox that produces harmony between
wine and food. i believe chardonnay can accompany different types of food
because its freshness sets off leaner dishes.
27
fraNK & aNdy schlecK, cyclists
Crémants are for victory and a double source of pride
Which of the grape varieties produced in Luxembourg is your favourite?
as athletes, we don’t drink much alcohol. however, crémant is very
symbolic for us. we travel two hundred days a year and of course we do not
take any bottles with us. but when we get the opportunity to celebrate a good
result with luxembourg crémant, then our pride in our victory is doubled by our
good luxembourg wines.
Can you describe this wine? Which of its characteristics do you like
best?
after hard physical exertion, its coolness is of course always welcome.
it reminds us that the hardest part is behind us and that we can now enjoy this
moment of celebration while quenching our thirst and relaxing. it’s a double joy.
Is there a particular moment, a memory or a type of food that you
associate with tasting this wine?
the actual moment of victory, of course! the celebration as a family
or with the team! uncorking the crémant is part of a ritual that we enjoy.
it follows success. it confirms success. all these after-race moments are
therefore fundamentally associated with crémant. it’s very powerful.
With which dish or food is it best enjoyed, in your opinion? Do you
have a particular recipe which especially complements this wine?
we personally drink crémant before or after dinner, or in the coach after
a race, but always to celebrate something. when we are savouring our victory,
we don’t want anything else. there’s no need for food and in fact it doesn’t even
enter our heads. at times like that everyday life is still very far away.
The wine-grower’s view on crémanTs
The appellation “Crémant de Luxembourg” has
existed since 1991. Thanks to its freshness, sophis-
tication and vigour, Luxembourg Crémant has
enjoyed unparalleled success, winning awards every
year at international competitions. Crémant is made
using a traditional method mastered long ago. As
pinnacle of quality, it requires hard work in the
vineyard and a rigorous selection of grapes and base
wines. All of the grape varieties authorised in Lux-
embourg may be used to produce Crémant. The
grapes must be very healthy, nicely ripe and intact
until they are pressed. For 150 kg of grapes, a max-
imum authorised of 100 litres of must can be
obtained, which then undergoes initial fermentation
in a vat. The second fermentation takes place
directly in the bottle. A minimum maturation of nine
month on the lees is required. Luxembourg mainly
produces Crémant brut. Crémant may be produced
from a single grape variety or from a blend of several
grapes, as vintage or not. All offer the perfect accom-
paniment to a meal.
28
Speciality Wines the speciality wiNes from luxembourg – the “late harvest”, “viN de paille” aNd “ice wiNes” – are successful attempts to further diversify local productioN whilst pushiNg the bouNdaries of viNificatioN techNiQues.
They comply with specific regulations in
terms of minimum natural alcoholic strength
by volume (indicated by Oechsle degrees), grape
variety and grape-picking, which must be done
by hand.
Truly challenging wines given the
weather and the climate, the success of these
speciality wines depends on expertise, care,
undivided attention, plus a measure of luck.
These amazing wines with their astonishing
range of aromas and tastes are produced in tiny
quantities, which restricts them to prestige
markets.
“late harvest”. As the name indicates,
these wines originate from a very late harvest
which for each grape variety depends on the
grape containing a minimum amount
of sugar. The carefully selected grapes have
often developed noble rot, the botrytis fungus.
As the skin becomes porous, it allows water
to evaporate, favouring the concentration
of sugars and the development of aromas
in the grape. The skin changes colour and
assumes the appearance and concentrated
taste of a raisin. The permitted grape varieties
for a late harvest are specified by legislation
and include Auxerrois, Pinot blanc, Pinot gris,
Riesling and Gewürztraminer at 105° Oechsle
minimum (95° Oechsle for Riesling).
29
“viN de paille”. This type of wine is
produced from healthy grapes picked when ripe
from selected grape varieties and spread out
on racks. straw (‘paille’) was used in the past,
hence the name. These racks are placed in well
ventilated locations to allow the water contained
in the grapes to evaporate until the maximum
sugar concentration is achieved. This lengthy
waiting period of minimum two months, entails
constant monitoring and selection, with a massive
reduction in volume as the grapes dry out.
Annual production is, therefore, extremely
limited. Produced from the Auxerrois, Pinot
blanc, Pinot gris and Gewürztraminer grape
varieties, Vin de Paille has a minimum natural
alcoholic strength by volume of 130° Oechsle.
“ice wiNe”. Ice wine is produced from
grapes frozen on the vine at temperatures of
less than or equal to -7 °C. At this level of cold,
the water contained within the grape freezes
and only the sugars remain soluble. saturation
is used to achieve a highly concentrated must
of at least 120° Oechsle. Grapes are harvested
in winter under very difficult conditions such
as at night, when it is coldest and on slopes
that are relatively steep and difficult to light.
The fact that these temperatures are rarely
reached, the risk of losing everything, plus the
great concentration of the grape obtained justify
the uniqueness and the elitism of ice wine.
In Luxembourg, ice wine can only be produced
from Pinot blanc, Pinot gris or Riesling grapes.
many cellars today use these oak barrels which give wine rich aromas. the autumn sun plays a vital role in maturing late harvests.
the few frozen grapes are now ready to be harvested. a rare and very special sight that will result in truly heavenly wine.
30
Luxembourg, between tradition and modernityfor Nearly half a ceNtury, staiNless steel vats have virtually replaced traditioNal wood barrels. the maNy iNtriNsic advaNtages of staiNless steel, iN terms of hygieNe iN particular, have made them almost iNdispeNsable iN luxembourg wiNe cellars.
The vigour that characterises Moselle
wines is certainly due to the smooth inside
walls of these stainless steel vats which do not
allow much of the carbonic gas or the natural
aromas of the wine to evaporate. This unique
characteristic, a result of state-of-the-art
vinification methods, contributes towards
the freshness of the Luxembourg wines.
since the 1980s, many wine-growers
from the Grand-Duchy have been keen to work
with expert wine-makers from neighbouring
countries. Together they have perfected new
technologies which have enriched wine-growing
in Luxembourg.
Green harvests and the fermentation
of wines in barrel are just a few of the many
examples of this. Determined to remain at the
forefront of progress, Luxembourg wine-growers
try to keep up-to-date with the latest innova-
tions in viticulture and vinification.
This enables them to offer products that
demonstrate the potential of Luxembourg’s
vines in the best way possible.
However, this constant evolution is not
at the expense of an ancient tradition which
is still very much alive and rich in experience.
Are not truly great wines those which succeed
in achieving the perfect symbiosis between
modernity and tradition?
“Appellation contrôlée” in Luxembourg luxembourg’s viNeyards have evolved ever siNce the early 20th ceNtury, aNd iN particular by iNtroduciNg New grape varieties aNd levels of yield.
The question of how to ensure the
originality and quality of wines produced on
Luxembourg soils led to the creation of the
“Marque nationale” (national seal of Approval)
as early as 1935, as the state wished to ensure
the quality of local production through close
monitoring. strict criteria have been in place
since the famous “Marque nationale – Appella-
tion contrôlée” designation was created. Only
wines of Luxembourg origin that have not been
blended with foreign wine and which comply
with European union requirements can lay
claim to this designation. It is also obligatory
that wines displaying this label must have been
commercialised in bottles, and the grapes must
only have been harvested and vinified within
the national production area.
In 1959, the Marque nationale intro-
duced wine classifications with the distinctions
of “Marque nationale – Appellation contrôlée”,
“vin classé”, “premier cru” and “grand premier
cru”, with this last one being the most difficult
to obtain.
In 1988, it was the turn of the sparkling
wines, then three years later in 1991 it was the
crémants who also benefitted from their own
appellation contrôlée. More recently in 2007
assemblage wines (cuvées from indigenous
grape varieties) were also introduced.
31
from the laboratory to the organoleptic examination, test after test at the institut viti-vinicole.
representatives from all sectors involved in wine production and consumption (from wine-growers, cellarmen, wine merchants, hotel and restaurant owners, café proprietors and consumers to the representatives of the ministry of agriculture) make up the marque Nationale committee of experts.
Luxembourg, between tradition and modernityfor Nearly half a ceNtury, staiNless steel vats have virtually replaced traditioNal wood barrels. the maNy iNtriNsic advaNtages of staiNless steel, iN terms of hygieNe iN particular, have made them almost iNdispeNsable iN luxembourg wiNe cellars.
33
THE WInE ROuTE“Drinking wine is like drinking the spirit of genius.”
Charles baudelaire, French poet 1821-1867.
so not only does Luxembourg wine pay tribute to its native land,
when mature it also plays its part in that special joie de vivre which
is so characteristic of the entire Moselle Valley.
soils aNd climate 34wiNe – a meaNs of celebratioN 35the moselle valley 36
34
the ancient cultivation of wine has preserved the local fauna and flora.
most of the vines in the moselle valley are located 150–250 metres above sea level.
With an annual average rainfall of 725 mm,
spread out over the entire year, and one
or two degrees Celsius above the national
average, the Valley’s micro-climate is ideal for
wine-growing. The climate zone is temperate,
with both a maritime and a continental influence
which gives moderate winters, temperatures
that are rarely too high in summer and tempera-
ture ranges that do not vary widely.
As far as the composition of the soils
is concerned, there is a clear distinction
between the north and the south of the Valley,
which can easily be discerned when tasting
the wines. In the north, the district of Greven-
macher is characterised by its limestone rock.
The soils are a mixture of dolomitic clay and
pebbles. The valley is narrower and the slopes
are steep. The wines produced in this region
are racy and elegant. In the south, the land-
scape of the district of Remich is completely
different: the valley widens out, the hills are
rounded and the slopes are softer. The soils are
rich in clay on a substratum of Keuper marl.
This type of terroir produces more mellow and
more harmonious wines.
A trip to sample the latest vintages from
Easter onwards is an excellent pretext for
visiting the Grand-Duchy, or why not come
in early summer and enjoy the spectacle of the
valley of the vines in flower, or even take part
in the grape harvest when autumn comes
around. For each season, there’s a reason.
Soils and ClimateiN the middle ages, viNes were cultivated across the eNtire couNtry as a result of the proliferatioN of moNasteries aNd other religious ceNtres. over the ceNturies, variatioNs iN the climate gradually limited productioN to the moselle valley.
35
Wine – means of celebration“Quality of wiNe is measured by Joy” said the freNch actor fraNçois cluzet. No problem – the graNd-duchy’s wiNes are up for the challeNge.
between picturesque wine festivals and
special events, opportunities abound to measure
the happiness which tasting these local crus
brings to the people of Luxembourg. Fountains
filled with wine, tables with colourful tablecloths
laden with food, and the happy peals of laughter
of those lovers of good wine – there is constant
proof of how proud and satisfied these wine growers
and their neighbours are. And thanks to a lively
tradition, these popular festivals continue
to attract to the region both the simply curious
and also lovers of good food and wine who will not
hesitate to travel across the country to take part.
Outside the Moselle Valley, exploration is
a little more intimate. In the shade of a restaurant
with cosy lighting or even propping up a bar
in a café. but the aim is the same - to discover
the wines of the vintage.
The wine growers have understood this
perfectly. This curiosity just keeps on growing.
Tastings in specially equipped cellars are
increasing. Private and professional evening
sessions are gaining in popularity, to the great
delight of the wine growers who are pleased to use
these opportunities to share the fruits of their
labours. If yesterday’s wine consumption was
a daily ritual, today it is accompanied by a whole
new wave of social ceremony. Let’s get the party
started!
filled straight from the barrel, these small traditional glasses set the pace at popular festivals in many wine-growing villages.
the good weather signals the start of the many garden parties.
36
The Moselle Valleythe moselle river caNal was built iN 1964 aNd the viNeyard valley exteNds for 42 Km betweeN scheNgeN iN the south, famous for the sigNiNg of the europeaN treaty, aNd wasserbillig iN the North.
And flowing through the centre of the
Valley is, of course, the river Moselle, which runs
peacefully between Germany and Luxembourg,
marking the frontier between the two countries
that was agreed at the Congress of Vienna
in 1815.
It is possible to travel along almost the
entire length of the valley without leaving the
Route nationale and for the most part, running
alongside neighbouring Germany. This gives the
opportunity to pass through several localities
and small traditional villages which owe much
of their charm to a vine cultivation that has
been deeply ingrained in these places and
lifestyles for several centuries.
The Moselle is one of Luxembourg’s main
tourist destinations for several reasons.
In addition to its magnificent vineyard land-
scapes and clement temperatures, it represents
more than any other region in the country the
national “dolce vita”, where hedonism flourishes.
Food lover or food expert, sporty or lazy, or quite
simply curious and eager for adventure, there
is something here to suit every taste.
A complete network of marked footpaths
has been created enabling walkers to discover
the region on foot, by bike or even on horseback.
In the summer the River Moselle sees an
increase in river traffic. Pleasure boats join the
barges which travel up and down this important
waterway leading to the Rhine and down to the
north sea. And why not benefit from the grape
harvesting period to discover this little corner
of paradise?
the towers of schengen castle announce this famous little village.
37
green geometric slopes or imaginary landscapes, each season leaves an impression on the moselle valley.
37
38
A few figures
39.5 %
since the land consolidations, which led to a better distribution of the grape varieties
being planted, 39.5 % of the wine-growing area has been dedicated to the cultivation
of Auxerrois, Pinot blanc and Pinot gris. Riesling vines occupy 12.3 %.
There has been a reduction in the cultivated area for Rivaner (28.5 %) and Elbling (8.9 %).
Pinot noir is increasingly popular and now represents 7.4 % of the vineyards.
saint Laurent was reintroduced in 2004.
1,289
Luxembourg’s wine-growing area covers an area of 1,289 ha of which 1,234 ha
are in production. This has diminished in size since the early 1990s due to a policy
of abandonment of wine-growing land, generally located at the extremity
of the wine-growing area and mainly unsuitable for producing quality wines.
6Luxembourg is the 6th smallest country
in the world and the only Grand-Duchy in
existence.
1818 wine festivals take place each year
in the Luxembourg Moselle region.
2000Vines have been cultivated in
Luxembourg for nearly 2000 years.
4545 gold medals were won
by Luxembourg wines in international
competitions in 2007.
6,444,700 6,444,700 vines are planted
in Luxembourg.
82
82 km long from north to south
and 57 km wide from east to west:
These are the dimensions of the
Grand-Duchy of Luxembourg, which
boasts a wine-growing area of 2,586 km²
(999 square miles).
66 %
66% of Luxembourg production
is exported to belgium, making it
the largest importer of Luxembourg
wines (Germany 28 %, France 5 %,
other countries 1 %).
this project has been co-financed as part of the leader+ initiative by the eaGGF, the ministry of agriculture, viticulture and rural Development of luxembourg and the municipalities of miselerland.
Published by the ‘commission de Promotion des vins & crémants de luxembourg’ www.vins-cremants.lu
copy: romina calò
Photography: andrés lejonathe photographs on pages 28, 29 on the right, 35 on the right and 37 are by carlo rinnen
concept & layout: a | part, luxembourg
Printed by: imprimerie centrale, luxembourg
with special thanks to the minister of agriculture, viticulture and rural Development Fernand Boden, the secretary of state for agriculture, viticulture and rural Development Octavie modert, marc weyer, Gilles estgen and Philippe eschenauer of the leader + miselerland, romina calò, andrés lejona, thierry corona, claude Bertemes, thorunn egilsdóttir, léa linster, enrico lunghi, Dominique rizzi, Frank and andy schleck, claude schmitz, carole tompers, François valentiny, raymond weydert, christiane Blum, Jeannot Bonifas, serge Fischer, marc Kuhn, andré mehlen, Jean-Paul risch and Jerry scheuer from the ‘institut viti-vinicole’, romain Batya, abi Duhr, claude Gaasch, Josy Gloden, elisa Kern, andré Klein, ruth latin-Herber, Jonathan lyddon, romain mondloch, claude moyen, Dan neven, carlo rinnen, tom schumacher, anne tarin, members of the ‘commission de Promotion des vins & crémants de luxembourg’ and the ‘Fonds de solidarité viticole’ and all luxembourgish vintners.
Fichier à imprimer, verso (3mm inclus)
this project has been co-financed as part of the leader+ initiative by the eaGGF, the ministry of agriculture, viticulture and rural Development of luxembourg and the municipalities of miselerland.
Published by the ‘commission de Promotion des vins & crémants de luxembourg’ www.vins-cremants.lu
copy: romina calò
Photography: andrés lejonathe photographs on pages 28, 29 on the right, 35 on the right and 37 are by carlo rinnen
concept & layout: a | part, luxembourg
Printed by: imprimerie centrale, luxembourg
with special thanks to the minister of agriculture, viticulture and rural Development Fernand Boden, the secretary of state for agriculture, viticulture and rural Development Octavie modert, marc weyer, Gilles estgen and Philippe eschenauer of the leader + miselerland, romina calò, andrés lejona, thierry corona, claude Bertemes, thorunn egilsdóttir, léa linster, enrico lunghi, Dominique rizzi, Frank and andy schleck, claude schmitz, carole tompers, François valentiny, raymond weydert, christiane Blum, Jeannot Bonifas, serge Fischer, marc Kuhn, andré mehlen, Jean-Paul risch and Jerry scheuer from the ‘institut viti-vinicole’, romain Batya, abi Duhr, claude Gaasch, Josy Gloden, elisa Kern, andré Klein, ruth latin-Herber, Jonathan lyddon, romain mondloch, claude moyen, Dan neven, carlo rinnen, tom schumacher, anne tarin, members of the ‘commission de Promotion des vins & crémants de luxembourg’ and the ‘Fonds de solidarité viticole’ and all luxembourgish vintners.
Fichier à imprimer, verso (3mm inclus)